# Tie Rod end solution



## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

No joke, been digging through the moog catalog up here at work and im on to something.

READ BELOW

This is just the first one i have found, im still digging, I will keep you guys posted.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

GOT EM


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

subscribing.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Interesting.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Moog #ES2347RL
AC-Delco# 45A0479

applications-
Chrysler Sebring 03-95; Dodge 2000 GTX 89; Avenger 00-95; Colt 91-84; Stealth 95-91; Stratus 03-01; Eagle 2000 GTX 93-91; Summit 96-93; Talon 98-90; Vista 91-89; Hyundai Elantra 95-92; Sonata 94-89; Mitsubishi 3000GT 98-91; (More) 

Going to check clearances for the diff tonight, if its going to clear im going to fab up some tie rods and give it a go.

Will know more on the clearances tonight, will post tomorrow


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Ends are RH thread, so you will have to remove the spindle end to adjust, but once they are on you shouldn't have to jack with adjustment anymore. Pretty beefy stuff, and will hold some extreme angles

Walk-in customer prices at carquest stores

RES2347RL Mevo-Tech-$17.59ea (will work just fine, good parts)
ES2347RL Moog-$32.99ea (lifetime warranty)


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## drtj (May 3, 2009)

Keep it coming!!


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## Heath070707 (Oct 12, 2009)

Looks good man. I just used honda 400ex ones and i have had no more problems with mine. Used the ex ends and used a jam nut on top.


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

Cool find! Kudos


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

Good find, hopefully the taper angle is the same.


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## chubbs34 (Apr 23, 2010)

this is a set i put together using heim ends


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

helllllooooo welcome back, got some more stuff

(4) Dorman class 10 (grade 8) m14x1.5 thread wheel studs part number 610-333 
24" of 1/2 black pipe from the hardware store

so my total list of stuff:
(4) ES2347RL tie rod ends (with jam nuts,boots,cotter pins, EVERYTHING)
24" of 1/2" black pipe
(4) Dorman 610-333 wheel studs class 10
at least 12 coors lights and a can of snuff, gonna start work tonight

Heres the plan:
1.cut threads off black pipe
2.cut black pipe to length needed approx. 9.5"
3.cut heads off wheel studs
4.knock wheel studs into black pipe just to the beveled end and stop
5.mig studs to black pipe
6.install ends and jam nuts
7.install on brute

If this works out i vote on making sticky


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)




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## KMKjr (Jan 9, 2009)

Why not go to a machine shop and have them just thread a piece of high grade steel to fit the tie rod?

Did some reasearch on your tie rod numbers:

Napa

NCP 2692791 w/ Lifetime warranty

MRC ES2347 w/ One year warranty

Altrom cheapy ALT 1000511 

I'll get the Carquest #'s tomorrow (thier link is down)


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Es2347 and res2347 are the carquest numbers, I work at a carquest (independent store)

Any es ev ds numbers are pretty universal for most chassis lines


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

hoover said:


> Moog #ES2347RL
> AC-Delco# 45A0479
> 
> applications-
> ...


I think I found a better way. I do not work at a parts store, and the counter jockeys can't look up anything without keying it into the computer.

Anyway, I search one of the cars you listed as a application(Dodge 2000 GTX 89) for the tie rod you choose to use. I searched that car in ebay, and came up with this. A inner tie rod built onto a rod. Easy enough to cut to length, have a machine shop thread it, and then add a jam nut and your tie rod. Done.

Can you look up this inner tie rod and see if the stud and bevel are the same as your "ES2347 RL" tie rod end.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stee...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Ill look in a min, I'm headed into work good idea though


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

great thread. once this all gets worked out it can be moved to the How-TO's 

reps given!


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Did a little fab work, didnt have much time, but heres what we got


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

How strong is that rod? Now your weak point is where the thread stops and the rod starts, if you ever get it in a big bind, its going to break right there...


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

its going to take quite a bit to break it...nothing the brute is going to throw at it

youve seen women drive, they drive sebrings, elantras, and sonatas LOL

granted i get what you're saying, im thinking about taking a uni-bit and tapering the holes, but im going to see how it works, should be fine


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

the rod is black pipe, the threads were from a wheel stud from a 1-ton chevrolet, should be more than sufficient


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Cool.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

N2Otorious said:


> I think I found a better way. I do not work at a parts store, and the counter jockeys can't look up anything without keying it into the computer.
> 
> Anyway, I search one of the cars you listed as a application(Dodge 2000 GTX 89) for the tie rod you choose to use. I searched that car in ebay, and came up with this. A inner tie rod built onto a rod. Easy enough to cut to length, have a machine shop thread it, and then add a jam nut and your tie rod. Done.
> 
> ...


These ends im working with are off a rack and pinion setup...so the inner looks like this


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

OEM Hyundai and Moog are different from cheaper parts 

Hyundai on the left, cheap stuff on the right....this is a biggggg plus


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## KMKjr (Jan 9, 2009)

Polaris425 said:


> How strong is that rod? Now your weak point is where the thread stops and the rod starts, if you ever get it in a big bind, its going to break right there...


Agreed.

That setup is going to wear out the steering knuckle or snap at the threads. I've seen the wrong tie rod installed on cars and the threads not bottoming out, the end just wears out quickly and breaks.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

well so does the stock one so IF it does then were back to square one arent we?


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

The idea's sound. We need field trials! Put em to the test and let us know.


Nothing ventured, nothing gained.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Test results coming soon


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

Is this what the ball joint looks like installed? I can foresee a failure on the ball joint stud, or bending and cracking the steering plate.

Where is the rubber dust boot to pack grease in? The ball joint will wearout very fast without protection.


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

I'd like to see a pic of the shorter one. This has potential. I hope you don't think I'm being negative. I wasn't trying to be.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Not at all N20 dude...Ive gotten one done, just like one more, ill post pics soon


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

hoover said:


> Not at all N20 dude...Ive gotten one done, just like one more, ill post pics soon


:rockn: Rock On...


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

IBBruin said:


> The idea's sound. We need field trials! Put em to the test and let us know.
> 
> 
> Nothing ventured, nothing gained.


Indeed, go Let er Eat!!! and take LOTSA pics. We like pics:rockn:

I'm anxious to see the outcome of this.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

KMKjr said:


> Agreed.
> 
> That setup is going to wear out the steering knuckle or snap at the threads. I've seen the wrong tie rod installed on cars and the threads not bottoming out, the end just wears out quickly and breaks.


I had an aftermarket set once, and this is why I mentioned it. It took a little more beating than the stock, but it still broke, and instead of bending like the stock do, it broke at the threads, where the shaft started. And I had to be trailerd out. I went back to stock rods b/c when they go, they just bend, and at least you can get back to your truck w/ a bent one, broke one you cant. Dont get me wrong I'm all for innovation and home-brew parts but, IMO the tie rod is the weak link for a reason. When you beef it up, something much more expensive becomes the weak link. Stock rods are $10. I use to just keep extra ones around.


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

Polaris425 said:


> I had an aftermarket set once, and this is why I mentioned it. It took a little more beating than the stock, but it still broke, and instead of bending like the stock do, it broke at the threads, where the shaft started. And I had to be trailerd out. I went back to stock rods b/c when they go, they just bend, and at least you can get back to your truck w/ a bent one, broke one you cant. Dont get me wrong I'm all for innovation and home-brew parts but, IMO the tie rod is the weak link for a reason. When you beef it up, something much more expensive becomes the weak link. Stock rods are $10. I use to just keep extra ones around.


That's a good point.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

my first brute (2006) made it about 20ft from the trailer in a wheelie(with 27" XTR's) and i bent the stock rod, so i sleeved some stock rods and rolled out

stock rods just arent going to work for me, i think we will have some luck with this setup


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Oh there's no doubt those are going to hold up to some serious abuse :rockn: just hope your knuckles can too.. lol


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

hoover said:


> my first brute (2006) made it about 20ft from the trailer in a wheelie(with 27" XTR's) and i bent the stock rod, so i sleeved some stock rods and rolled out
> 
> stock rods just arent going to work for me, i think we will have some luck with this setup


I wonder if yours was aligned properly, Toe In and Toe Out wise.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

The toe was right, it was brand new lol...that was the first 20ft the bike got ridden


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

hoover said:


> The toe was right, it was brand new lol...that was the first 20ft the bike got ridden


LOL, yours could have been assembled on a Friday. LOL


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

I picked it up on a friday:thinking:


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## Guest (May 13, 2010)

N2Otorious said:


> LOL, yours could have been assembled on a Friday. LOL


 
LOL!! I was thinking the same thing...:nutkick:


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## Guest (May 13, 2010)

Hoover, i hope it works. Because i hate bending tie-rods. But i guess it is better that blowing one up... I've got the ASR tie-rod up grade kit on mine. So far it's held up really good. Memorial day weekend will the big test for them. 3 days of some hard riding @ the Bad Lands. I'll post if i destroy anything while i'm out there. :rockn:


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Im going to be doing some work on it this weekend...im ready to thrash this stuff


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## KMKjr (Jan 9, 2009)

Polaris425 said:


> I had an aftermarket set once, and this is why I mentioned it. It took a little more beating than the stock, but it still broke, and instead of bending like the stock do, it broke at the threads, where the shaft started. And I had to be trailerd out. I went back to stock rods b/c when they go, they just bend, and at least you can get back to your truck w/ a bent one, broke one you cant. Dont get me wrong I'm all for innovation and home-brew parts but, IMO the tie rod is the weak link for a reason. When you beef it up, something much more expensive becomes the weak link. Stock rods are $10. I use to just keep extra ones around.


Where you getting stock rods ends for $10.00?


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

I found these, not 10.00 but 11.76 is pretty good.


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## KMKjr (Jan 9, 2009)

N2Otorious said:


> I found these, not 10.00 but 11.76 is pretty good.


 
I was talking about the end, but still they are F'n $60.00 at the dealer....


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

KMKjr said:


> I was talking about the end, but still they are F'n $60.00 at the dealer....


Well the tie rod ends are 24.75 X 2 + 11.76 = 61.26 for the whole thing assembled.


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## KMKjr (Jan 9, 2009)

N2Otorious said:


> Well the tie rod ends are 24.75 X 2 + 11.76 = 61.26 for the whole thing assembled.


Nope, suggested retail at out dealer is $60.24 for just the end (and only one).

Not what he charges me and can get 2 All balls for $40.00m but still.....that's some good mark up.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

I said Rod, not rod end... :rockn: Rods are $10 at the dealer. Or they were at the one I was using.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Got both the rods built, got my ends, gonna install these bad boys tonight and go hit some mud tomorrow and let yall know how it goes. Then of course next weekend will be the big test, going to a park that should put them to the test. I will keep you updated.

Spray the rods with duplicolor bedliner, i think they look pretty good


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

those look pretty awsome!


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Ill have some installed pics monday, hopefully a little video of them articulating and doin work


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

hoover said:


> Ill have some installed pics monday, hopefully a little video of them articulating and doin work


Looks good... I like the Rino liner...


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Im pumped, im hung up on youtube ready to go on a ride lol


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Nice man!!!!...let us know how they work... :rockn:


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## oldmanbrute (Apr 15, 2009)

looks like a winner!.....you need to patent it..lol


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

Hey,
Turns out there is a commercial available Heavy Duty Tie Rod already out there. 

They are 59.95 + 9.85 shipping = $69.80 Total
http://www.amstarmanufacturing.com/TieRods.html


*American Star Heavy Duty Racing Tie Rods are available in Stock, +1, +2, +3 and +4 lengths. 
Custom Lengths from 06 to 24 Inches **The Male and Female Style Tie Rods** are precision 
manufactured out of Precision Formed, Seamless Heat Treated .120 Wall 5/8 inch Tubing 
with Precision machined 304 Stainless Steel internal or external Threaded Ends TIG Welded 
in. Both Racing Tie Rod Sets are lifetime structurally warranted against bending or 
breaking. Be sure to select the size you need when ordering below.*











Or the complete package:
http://www.amstarmanufacturing.com/TieRodUpgrade.html









also check this one out...
http://www.allballsracing.com/Suspension.asp?page=TR


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

They aren't that great...plus they come with that price tag I was trying to find something inexpensive and also easy to do


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

hoover said:


> They aren't that great...plus they come with that price tag I was trying to find something inexpensive and also easy to do


I can not confirm or deny that, But they do say, "*lifetime structurally warranted against bending or 
breaking".

and they are 119.95, Stock replacement is 120.00,
*


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

It is a fact that the ASR rods are...or at least were.. the strongest commercially built replacements on the market. They can handle several thousand pounds more pressure then my Diamond "G"s. And those are strong enough to allow the knuckles or stem to break first so... pick your poison. Buying a badszz rod has never been the problem, finding an end that will last...that's been the quest. Although I bought the diamond g ends with the rods 2000 miles ago and they are still good. But I'm not under water and mud all the time either.


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## hoover (Apr 3, 2010)

Got the rods and ends on today, only problem I ran into is on the stem. The heads of the ends were rubbing, mainly from the extreme angle. Hit both ends with a grinder, shaved a little off and they clear. Steering is a little heavier as of right now, the joints are of course still tight.it was however nice to not feel any slack whatsoever. It was all tight.going riding this next weekend, should be a good test.


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## cmjbr750 (Mar 25, 2010)

i made some rods but they are to tick have to trun them down a little to work. when i get them on will take more pic. now need to get heavy tie rod ends. they are made out of 17-4 it is a hight qulity stainless


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## cmjbr750 (Mar 25, 2010)

i had to make them 5/8 to fit


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## biggdady (Mar 28, 2010)

looks good lets us know how they work out.


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

hoover said:


> Got the rods and ends on today, only problem I ran into is on the stem. The heads of the ends were rubbing, mainly from the extreme angle. Hit both ends with a grinder, shaved a little off and they clear. Steering is a little heavier as of right now, the joints are of course still tight.it was however nice to not feel any slack whatsoever. It was all tight.going riding this next weekend, should be a good test.


Ok Over 2 weeks have passed, what is the verdict?


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

N2Otorious said:


> Ok Over 2 weeks have passed, what is the verdict?


Over 3 weeks now... :thinking:


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

N2Otorious said:


> Over 3 weeks now... :thinking:


did you expect anything different........... ?


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## N2Otorious (May 10, 2010)

Polaris425 said:


> did you expect anything different........... ?


Kinda... Yeah... Is that how it goes? 

All this energy into making something, and then no results. One could only assume the results were bad.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

N2Otorious said:


> One could only assume the results were bad.


Those are my assumptions. :thinking:


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

I just put gas pipe over mine (not sure of size found it at work) but no problem in two years but the ends are a different story i need someting better.


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