# Dayco XTX is toast???



## CreepinDEEP (Mar 22, 2010)

anyone else have problems with the xtx.....ive gotten 2 rides outta mine n she blew chunks out on me this sat on the second ride n smoke on the first......i thought these belts was supposed to be hosss status lol?


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## swampthing (May 2, 2010)

ya right! i had one on my machine for NO more than 150 miles on it, when she grenaded and broke the belt switch inside the clutch cover. went back to my original OEM and been fine since.


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## srtlongbow123 (May 27, 2010)

*bump*

i had one go and i went back to oem and its fine i vote oem best belt so far


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## CreepinDEEP (Mar 22, 2010)

really oem over xtx.....hmmmmm, I have three oems at the house lol slighty used n I think one is glazed....could my clutch kit or wieghts or springs be wearing it out???


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## DjScrimm (Jan 2, 2009)

Was it in there properly? Deflection and what not? 

I've heard only good things of the xtx belts..


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## CreepinDEEP (Mar 22, 2010)

yeah she was perfect......first time I rode it she was quite n smooth n rode and performed awesome....2nd time I was at CAW and got hung up between 2 trees n gave it a little blip on the throttle n out rolled a puff of smoke....after that I'd hear some noises from my snorks every now n then but she did fine....well this time at CAW she started spittin chunks at me and some cod web lookin stuf lol......what could have caused this....i wasn't even hard on it....springs, weights, etc....


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## srtlongbow123 (May 27, 2010)

*bump*

takes pics of your primary and secondary i want to see if your sheaves are worn


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## CreepinDEEP (Mar 22, 2010)

how would they b worn I wonder.....bike aint got many hrs on it lol......what would wear them down?


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## srtlongbow123 (May 27, 2010)

*bump*

the xtx is a harder belt and when your belt slips it will grove the sheaves just cheak and see if its clean and not groved that will take like five min if you have the cover off


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## CreepinDEEP (Mar 22, 2010)

jus checked sheeves and they're smooth as can be


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

I have heard this time and again and I have done it myself three times now..so I have a theory. Notice most always these belts either burn or get damaged right at the start by just blip'n the throttle...and its most always when they are new and just put in when the deflection is at its lowest. Like most of you, I too set my deflection to the lowest..22mm..so I will have some time before having to adjust it again. I lost a dayco in 20 miles, a Carlisle is 60 miles and now I just got some smell out of my brand new OEM. All from a dead stop and giving a quick kick while the bike was in a little pinch. Now notice how the ones that have been in a while and stretched out some...being on the high side of the deflection never seam to have a problem. Hmmm...

I'm starting to think there is something about the sheive taper at bottom end of the primary that isn't making the best side contact with the belts at the start but up just a little farther the belts either make additional contact or the fit is just better and they just grip better. I say this because this time when installing this OEM I did at first set the deflection 25mm instead of 22, and it never slipped or smelled of the toughest hill climbs or launches or any pinch spots. It did stretch to 27mms by 50 miles and I reset it to 22...and on the first ride...bam.. that's when it did it. And it wasn't a bad spot all...about the same as what took out the Dayco. 

So what do you guys think about what you are hearing? Is there something to this?


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## badazzbrute (Apr 11, 2010)

My vote is the OEM. The only problem I had was not caused by the belt being "bad". It was caused by a heavy thumb, 30" backs, and no clutching. Now I have the clutching set, and thumb under control with no problems.


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## CreepinDEEP (Mar 22, 2010)

so I wonder if my clutching is wrong setup......mar pri red sec with diff weights....its the hl exteme mud kit......i would love to fix this problem so it doesn't happen again ever lol....my bike has a good bit of stall before it moves....wonder if I should change somethin up??? What you guys think?


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

XTX blew this weekend first 10 miles had a used oem and ran it the rest of the weekend 30 more miles lots of mud holes with no problem.Im sticking with oem tried them all and so far OEM is the best to me.


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

nmk, You may be on to something...


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## derk (Nov 24, 2009)

Justin did you break it in? I installed mine a pinch tight to begin with and had to add a shim or two, but i rode the bike around a good hour just cruising. No blimps of the throttle or wot blasts. Maybe it didn't have enough time to break in?

I've had zero problems out of my 3gx(XTX renamed), even with the 32s. I had it on my SRA with 29.5s and actually got water in the trans and it still didnt slip. This weekend with my 650i(same belt) i pulled part of a tree that was 20+ ft long and tapered from 4" to 8". Not huge but still quite a load for a quad. Pulled it through 2 ditches and had zero slip even with my 32s. The belt seems to be very tough to me. Maybe it's just something simple. Justin give me a call sometime and maybe it's something we can talk through.


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## CreepinDEEP (Mar 22, 2010)

derk lol aint sure what happened.....the whole left side jus came apart n the string that's in it was jus a hangin....right side of belt seemed good....maybe stupid me didn't break it in the right way likeu said lol....maybe that's y she puffed smoke on me the night of the cmr races at CAW.... Kinda odd though, I had ridden it all day wit no probs.....this time at CAW she bit it...almost seems defective....deflection seems right on...i put it in gear and no roll...lol


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## srtlongbow123 (May 27, 2010)

*ttt*

ok as far as your clutch your secondary is red your right on as for the primary stock wts and the spring is fine i like the stock wts its a little better on the belt change the wts and get a oem belt in there and see if this help oh PS for your 4wd issue check your junction box and cut it so you can see the wires and posts if you have mud and water and sand in there your going to want to rewire this and you will solve all your issues with your wiring


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## CreepinDEEP (Mar 22, 2010)

well I have the better weights on it that came wit the kit....by junction box you mean the plug on the actuator wire?


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## gpinjason (Nov 10, 2009)

just because the kit came with weights doesn't necessarily mean that they are "better" weights for your bike.. lots of people (myself included) are running with the stock weights and they work great... I think part of your problem was the break in period.. if you didn't let the belt break in like your supposed to, it can cause premature failure... I was told to ride around for at least an hour at different speeds to allow the belt to "adjust" to the sheaves..


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

gpinjason said:


> just because the kit came with weights doesn't necessarily mean that they are "better" weights for your bike.. lots of people (myself included) are running with the stock weights and they work great... I think part of your problem was the break in period.. if you didn't let the belt break in like your supposed to, it can cause premature failure... I was told to ride around for at least an hour at different speeds to allow the belt to "adjust" to the sheaves..


A-men on the weights and I personaly think it takes more then an hour for break-in. One other thought for you guys that run sand paper or emery cloth over your shieves to clean them up. That fine but you need to run some polishing compound over then after and then do a good clean-up because they say you can loose 20% of the contact surface area to those scratches. When you think of it, the belt doesn't sink into the scratches, just sits over the top. Makes sence to me. I guess thats why drag racers use slicks...to maximize contact area. Man we need all we can get with these Brutes.


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## gpinjason (Nov 10, 2009)

I understand the contact area thing you are talking about, but I kinda disagree with it (to some extent)... I'm not a racer, so I don't really know what the slicks actually do, I know they have to be HOT to work... but I am a rock crawler, which means I need traction also, and in that world, it's all about using "siping" and multiple "biting edges" to gain that traction, cuz you aint going up rocks with slicks.... as well as on normal car tires the tread patterns help with traction... I would think the sheaves being too smooth would cause slipping, and the tiny scratches from the sandpaper actually help give it that bite that it needs to keep the belt moving...


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## jbadon (Sep 21, 2009)

2 rides 30 inch backs xtx belt rubber hitting me in my face through snorkel got me a terex belt now


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## CreepinDEEP (Mar 22, 2010)

so what does the terex belt do?


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## jbadon (Sep 21, 2009)

same belt different part number thou thats all they had at the time so thats what i got good luck so far with it oh yea terex belt is 2 dollers more lol


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## SHAKE&BAKE (Oct 9, 2010)

anybody heard of using a snowmobile belt???


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

Here is a funny one .thought I was in limp mode, pulled the cover to check the belt.(Stupid Hurts) I LEFT THE WATER STOPPER IN THE SNORK AFTER WASHING.... Since the cover was off I cleaned it and used that belt dressing ,had some left from one of the cars. Dunno if it does any good ? deflection was getting up there but still good... BTW/OEM. anyone use this stuff ? ? ? ? ? ?


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## bruterider27 (Apr 29, 2010)

My xtx is doing fine iv rode not quit a hour but about 8 miles at different speeds and a couple little holes after that yall think its broke in?


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## brutus750i (Nov 17, 2009)

go with the stocker!!!


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

bruterider27 said:


> My xtx is doing fine iv rode not quit a hour but about 8 miles at different speeds and a couple little holes after that yall think its broke in?


I'd go a little more...like 20 miles.


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## Rack High (Feb 23, 2010)

I'm with you Jason...you have to wear the belt into the sheave angle. I also swear by the Kawi belt..it seems to work best for me. Mine's been on there for 8 months and I don't baby it.


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## 06BRUTEFORCE (Jun 17, 2010)

Would the best place to order a belt be the Kawi dealer?


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

06BRUTEFORCE said:


> Would the best place to order a belt be the Kawi dealer?


I get mine from Babbitts.


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## BigBruteSteve (Sep 19, 2010)

ive used the dayco for about 200miles..no problems...idk why yal mess them up..????


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## bruterider27 (Apr 29, 2010)

Mines been on for about 60 or so maybe more and doing grate but the more you burn the belt the more its likly to go out again


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## Bootlegger (Dec 18, 2008)

Just from what I have seen...if the XTX is broke in correctly its one tough belt. The OEM belts are good though.


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## 06BRUTEFORCE (Jun 17, 2010)

06BRUTEFORCE said:


> Would the best place to order a belt be the Kawi dealer?





nmkawierider said:


> I get mine from Babbitts.


Just looked at Babbitts, 78 bucks?


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

06BRUTEFORCE said:


> Just looked at Babbitts, 78 bucks?


Yep, genuine Kawasaki OEM belts. I think you will pay more at a dealer. I did try and loved an EPI EXD Belt. Got 900 miles out of it. Still have it for a spare. It was about 120 bucks though. Muddthrowers has the XTX belt for just a little more then stock belt price though.


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## gpinjason (Nov 10, 2009)

I've had my XTX in for over a year.. no problems.. still pulls great... not sure how many miles on it though... didn't pay attention how many I had before I put it in...


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## jyarber (Oct 27, 2010)

how do you tell if the sheeves are worn?


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## bruterider27 (Apr 29, 2010)

Ok I destroid my belt yesterday any its the xtx is there a better and stronger belt or is this still the strongest


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

jyarber said:


> how do you tell if the sheeves are worn?


 There will be a grove worn in them. Mainly just the primary ive never seen it on a secondary.


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