# 06 Brute Force 750 - How to clean out front diff



## ChrisEK (Jan 19, 2011)

Just purchased an 06 Brute Force 750 from a friend. Checked the front diff fluid tonight and it is full of thick mud and water. What can I run thru it to clean it out and what fluid is the best to put back in?

I already drained and filled a few times and it is still coming out bad.


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## BleednGreen68 (Apr 19, 2010)

I would run some diesel fuel in it. That will give it a little lubricity but also act as a solvent to break down the oil. But I wouldnt run it long with that stuff in it while riding it. I'd probably just jack it up off the floor and just fill it up with diesel and rotate the front end to slosh it around and empty and repeat that a bunch till the diesel coming out is clean. I dont think it would hurt the clutch disks inside?


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## GNX Guy (Feb 18, 2010)

Use diesel to flush it then add Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 synthetic. $10.00 a qt. Started using this after my front end on my 02 Prairie 650 locked up and as recommended by NYROC.

Joe


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## ChrisEK (Jan 19, 2011)

Is there a way to check what seals are leaking? oil isn't leaking out but that doesn't mean water is going in..


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## SMITTY (Feb 25, 2009)

you need to replace it with 10-40 not 20-50 (Amsoil!!)but anyway When I come across diff that have the really think stuff in there I have used a degreaser like Purple Power. Put it in there and leave it sit for a while, the trun the tires, (jacked up off the ground) with your hand to stir it up and keep repeating till most of the really bad stuff it out, then diesel , then cheap oil then the good stuff. But that is if its really bad. The reason to put the degreaser in there is to break up the chunky stuff so it will come out the drain hole. then the desil thins everything out that is left and "washes" the inside, then the cheap oil will get all of the diesel.


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## Rack High (Feb 23, 2010)

Diesel fuel is the best for cleaning it out. I generally use a plastic spray bottle to wash down the milky residue and let it drain out the bottom. Works really well.


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## drtj (May 3, 2009)

I just flush it with cheap oil several times till it drains clean. I think you can run seafoam thru it also. I just run the cheap oil in it & change it after every ride or two


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

SMITTY said:


> you need to replace it with 10-40 not 20-50 (Amsoil!!)



Agreed. The book states specifically not to use ANYTHING other than whats recommended in the diff's... otherwise you'll have more problems. Have heard this on many forums as well, not just this one.


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## brute21 (Mar 12, 2010)

to be honest the best thing to do is just run oil through it till it starts to look like oil and then change it after every hard ride. I change mine every 3 rides. The rear diff isnt bad. Just change the front when you change your oil and you will be fine


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## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

if the mud wont drain out easily, the best way to clean it is to take it apart.


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## monsterbrute750 (Apr 13, 2010)

:beat:


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## monsterbrute750 (Apr 13, 2010)

* Search this thread......."cleaning diff "*


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## GNX Guy (Feb 18, 2010)

Hello, 

Actually one may note that on Page 129 of my owners manual for my 07 Brute, it states "Although 10W40 engine oil is the recommended oil for most conditions, the oil viscosity may need to be changed to accomodate atmospheric conditions in your riding area." This is an exact quote.

10W40 is good for -10 to 104
20W50 is good for 0 to > 104

I use 10W40 ATV oil in my crank case and use Mobil 1 V-Twin motorcycle oil (meets Kawasaki spec) in either 10W40 or 20W50 in the Front Diff. 

Joe




SMITTY said:


> you need to replace it with 10-40 not 20-50 (Amsoil!!)but anyway.


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## ChrisEK (Jan 19, 2011)

Just an update..used diesel to clean in out and it work out pretty well..then i found a pretty good leak after the next ride out where most of the water was probably coming in at...driveshaft to front differential. Will definately keep that oil change more often for sure now!


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## countryboy61283 (Mar 20, 2010)

The only difference is 10°, not saying your wrong or right but it has a hard enough time lubricating with 10w-40 let alone 20w-50, its your machine but if you read this website alot you'll see all the problems guys had running thicker oil in front diff, just about every brute owner will tell you 10w-40 in front diff, The 20w-50 mobile 1 v-twin is specifically design for the motor not diff


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## carms_2 (Jul 21, 2010)

I use compressed air with a rag over the hole and wd-40. It works really well and keeps everything well lubricated. And its cheap to do.

You have to use wd-40 in a aersol can so you can get all over the diff.


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## 2domn8 (Dec 29, 2010)

I cleaned one with the biggest can of carb cleaner I could, then ran oil throught it once and drained. It looked good and filled it up and has been good ever since. Everyone will give you diff answers, do what you think is right and feel comfortable with.


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## brute06guyton (Feb 10, 2013)

*front diff drain*

Since we are talking about the front diff, I have the same deal going on with the thick sludge. pulled the axle because of a torn boot and sludge came out. just to the right of the axle is the nut to check the level when filling the diff I believe. I cannot see a drain plug. I just got the machine, can anyone help me. Thanks in advance.


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## wolf_36 (Jul 7, 2010)

Drain is on the bottom close to the front just look for the hole in your skid plate in the front .If I remember right mine took an allen wrench , but had a heck of a time getting it out , ended up changing it out to a hex head


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

Allen wrench with vise grips on the lip of the bolt and it will come out easy with pressure on both and change to a hex head bolt.An easy flush would be kerosene or diesel.

(rather be snapping axles then tapatalking)


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## brute06guyton (Feb 10, 2013)

wolf_36 said:


> Drain is on the bottom close to the front just look for the hole in your skid plate in the front .If I remember right mine took an allen wrench , but had a heck of a time getting it out , ended up changing it out to a hex head


 Found it, it had been replaced with a phillips head screw. Thanks alot for your input.


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

brute06guyton said:


> Found it, it had been replaced with a phillips head screw. Thanks alot for your input.


Make sure you change that to a hex head bolt.

(rather be snapping axles then tapatalking)


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