# Can't adjust front diff lock



## hunter4life1985 (Aug 23, 2011)

I have a Brute force 650i and the other day I became stuck with 3 wheels touching the ground. With the locking lever pulled completely back, the front wheel in the air continued to spin while the other did nothing. I got it out and home. When I tried to adjust the cable at the handle bar, it wouldn't budge. Does any one have any idea what could be binding the cable to prevent it from being tightened?


----------



## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

Cable may be froze up or just really stretched out... I just rebuilt my front diff and I noticed my cable is also not in the best of shape. Its the only cable that I havn't replaced yet...guess I'll be ordering one soon.


----------



## browland (Apr 4, 2009)

Corrosion!


----------



## hunter4life1985 (Aug 23, 2011)

*thanks*

thanks for the fast reply. looks like i am going to have to pull the cable off then. How likely is it that the clutch packs in the differential are used up since the cable may be overly tight?


----------



## rmax (Nov 21, 2009)

try to put some pb blaster or some thing like that on the threads to work thru the corrosion , if it comes lose put some anti seize on the threads an run it all the way in to get the female threads lubed


----------



## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

hunter4life1985 said:


> thanks for the fast reply. looks like i am going to have to pull the cable off then. How likely is it that the clutch packs in the differential are used up since the cable may be overly tight?


 If your clutch pack is worn out i have a fix for it so u dont have to buy a new clutch pack just pm me if u need.


----------



## hondarecoveryman (Feb 28, 2009)

Please tell me more.....:goodnews:


----------



## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

When my clutch pack in my old 650i was under the tolerence i went to a local gasket & shim place to get copper shim.They just gave me a 30 or 40 thousands thick piece like 12" x 14" so then i traced one of the clutch plates ( the metal one ) to the copper shim plate then cut out wih a SHARP chisel. When you cut it out cut it bigger so u dont bend the plate then use a dremiel to grind the edges down to size of the other shim plates.You may have to pull some of the other copper and metal plates out to get your tolerence but make sure you keep the order the plates are in.I ran for over a year with no problem before i totaled the bike but will do this again when my new ones get worn out.Also clean all the metal discs with like 280 grit sand paper too.There are also different metal plates that the pancake bearings ride on too like thicknesses there in the manual to halp get tolerance too. think i covered most of it any othe ? shoot away.


----------



## Stogi (Feb 24, 2010)

I had to replace the cable on mine. I never could get the adjustment on the original one to break loose.


----------



## hunter4life1985 (Aug 23, 2011)

*excellent ideas*

thanks for all the insight. I have been searching for fixes for almost a year and this is the first place that I have received straight answers! I am definitly glad to be a member of this forum now.


----------



## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

^ thats the reason I'm here. This site has helped me learn more about my brute than even my local atv shop knows lol....I'm serious.


----------



## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

brutemike said:


> When my clutch pack in my old 650i was under the tolerence i went to a local gasket & shim place to get copper shim.They just gave me a 30 or 40 thousands thick piece like 12" x 14" so then i traced one of the clutch plates ( the metal one ) to the copper shim plate then cut out wih a SHARP chisel. When you cut it out cut it bigger so u dont bend the plate then use a dremiel to grind the edges down to size of the other shim plates.You may have to pull some of the other copper and metal plates out to get your tolerence but make sure you keep the order the plates are in.I ran for over a year with no problem before i totaled the bike but will do this again when my new ones get worn out.Also clean all the metal discs with like 280 grit sand paper too.There are also different metal plates that the pancake bearings ride on too like thicknesses there in the manual to halp get tolerance too. think i covered most of it any othe ? shoot away.


THIS SHOULD BE ADDED TO THE HOW-TO'S SIR! Points givin.


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

hunter4life1985 fill out your signature 

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/profile.php?do=editsignature


----------



## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

filthyredneck said:


> THIS SHOULD BE ADDED TO THE HOW-TO'S SIR! Points givin.


 not sure how to do that on here.


----------



## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

brutemike said:


> not sure how to do that on here.


Same way as you start a new thread.... Go to the Kawasaki How-To's Section (all threads are labeled in red with a link close to the right side of the screen for which section they are in I.E>kawasaki, yamaha, for sale, how-to's....etc) If you don't see "how to's" on this side, just click any one of those links and scroll to the very bottom of the screen and you'll see a drop down menu that says Forum Jump...click that and scroll to Kawasaki How-To's and open it, then at the bottom of that screen you'll just click the button to post a new thread just like you do anywhere else in the forum. Once you submit it the mods will have to approve it first and then it'll show up.

As A Matter Of Fact....you can just scroll down to the bottom of THIS page and you'll see "Forum Jump"....you could get to where you need to be from here.


----------



## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

To bad i couldent just copy this over to there.


----------

