# 08 FI Brute running rich?



## kermyb123 (Sep 27, 2013)

Hey guys (and gals), first post after a lot of reading around. As the title says I have an 08 Brute 750 that seems to be running rich (black smoke - and the fuel smell you would associate) It also will stall if no throttle is given. I just completed a valve adjustment which took my about six tries to get rid of my ticking. While I was at it I threw on a full "Big Gun" exhaust, I also replaced the plugs PRIOR to adjustments, when things seemed to be working well.

While in the mist of adjusting the valves it would run fine (minus the clack), mind you I had already swapped the plugs -no exhaust yet. I followed the infamous youtube video for adjusting my valves after having no luck using the shop manual method (TF - too frustrated? TR - too retarded?). I went .005 on the intake and .007 on the exhaust. My best guess is things are too tight, however I never had a "rich" issue before I adjusted my valves and they should be at least looser than before???

I'm just looking for a few opinions. Thanks in advance! 

PS the gun sounds nice! Need some bite to go with the bark now!


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## cookgio (May 1, 2012)

If its fuel injected you need a tuner to adjust air/fuel stock system does not adjust. If it is Carb u need a jet kit.


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## gav09 (Feb 1, 2012)

recheck your work. if it ran fine before the valve were adjusted. check to see if any wires got pinched or if the coolant temp sensor is unplugged? I've never adjusted them on a brute yet but thats what i would do...


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## kermyb123 (Sep 27, 2013)

I rechecked my work and everything is in spec. Now I'm starting to wonder if its a fuel issue, or could I possibly need a remap with the Big Gun. I was looking at the paperwork that came with the exhaust and they highly recommend a remap after install.

Its very odd, the smoke only comes when I goose the throttle and its more of a puff. I also noticed a bit of power loss since I can barely get the front end off the ground. What should I look for and what steps can I take to widdle down on what's going on?


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## No_Substitue_For_A_Brute (May 4, 2011)

Any change to air intake or exhaust have to be compensated for in fuel. You changed the exhaust and need to put a programmer on to adjust the fuel now.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2


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## kermyb123 (Sep 27, 2013)

Thanks for the input, what would be the fastest way to test the fuel pump? flow test?


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## 2010Bruterider (Jun 20, 2010)

kermyb123 said:


> Thanks for the input, what would be the fastest way to test the fuel pump? flow test?


Pull the fuel line off and put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Flow doesn't mean as much with these injected bikes. It must be at least 43 psi or it's not gonna run right.


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## kermyb123 (Sep 27, 2013)

Update... Now I'm really confused, it would now seem that my brute purrrrrs on a cold start - remember its injected - after 2 or 3 minutes when things heat up she runs rough and will stall without some throttle. This makes me think she is running lean? Am I backwards on this? I bought a fuel pressure gauge and will test in this weekend.


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## xwildat72 (Feb 24, 2013)

I'm no expert but to me adding an aftermarket exhaust would allow more air flow not more fuel


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## kermyb123 (Sep 27, 2013)

Agreed, most people say there isn't enough difference. A few state otherwise.


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## 2010Bruterider (Jun 20, 2010)

kermyb123 said:


> Update... Now I'm really confused, it would now seem that my brute purrrrrs on a cold start - remember its injected - after 2 or 3 minutes when things heat up she runs rough and will stall without some throttle. This makes me think she is running lean? Am I backwards on this? I bought a fuel pressure gauge and will test in this weekend.


Take the idle air control valve off and clean it out with some brake cleaner. It's above the shifter and has 3 hoses running to it along with an electrical connector. Mine went bad and it wouldn't idle right.


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