# Renegade G2 XXC Snorkel



## Waddaman

Alright i've FINALLY got some time to do a write up for my snorkel set up on the renegade G2 XXC's. This setup is made completely out of PVC/ABS NO flex hose flex pipe etc. This set up has been tested with no heat issues rubbing issues etc and is working great! Anyway let's get started.

The parts list:

The Underside:

CVT intake:
2.5" to 1.5" Rubber Reducer
1.5" Long 90
1.5" Short 90 Street Fitting
1.5" Rubber Coupler

CVT Exhaust:
1.5" Rubber Coupler
1.5" Short 90 Street Fitting
1.5" Long 90
1.5" Rubber Coupler
1.5" Long 90
1.5" 22.5
1.5" Long 90
1.5" Short 90 Street Fitting
1.5" Rubber Coupler

Air Box Intake:
1.5" PVC Reducer
2" 45 Street Fitting
2" Rubber Coupler

THE UNDERSIDE TOTAL =
1x 2" to 1.5" Rubber Coupler
4x 1.5" Long 90
3x 1.5" 90 Street Fitting
4x 1.5" Rubber Couplers
1x 1.5" 22.5
1.5" PVC Reducer
2" 45 Street Fitting
2" Rubber Coupler

Stock:
APPROXIMATELY 5' of 1.5" pipe
APPROXIMATELY 1' of 2" Pipe
Can of PVC or ABS glue
Tube of Silicone
Aluminum Heat Tape
Exhaust/Header Wrap

The Top Side: (ONLY IF YOU WANT THE SAME TOPS AS SHOWN IN PICS)

2" 90 Street Fitting
2" Short 45
1.5" Long 90
1.5" Long 90
1.5" 45
1.5" 45

THE TOP SIDE TOTAL: 
1x 2" 90 Street Fitting
1x 2" Short 45
2x 1.5" Long 90
2x 1.5" 45



The reason why for each section i duplicated the same parts in the parts list is to make it easier to understand. the parts listed are from start to finish what you use for snorkeling. If gathering a list to buy these parts please use the totals listed to make that easier.


Now for the Instructions. Before I even start all pictures will not be posted here if you wish to see ALL pictures please go here: Renegade 1000 XXC Build Photos by Waddaman | Photobucket


Now just like the parts lists I will follow the same steps in the instructions. First before you even start your cowl, side covers, dash/center plastic, underside plastic covers and your front fenders will need to be removed. I will say this in caps so hopefully you follow it. DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING UNTIL EVERYTHING LINES UP THE WAY YOU WANT AND YOUR SNORKELS LINE UP WITH THE HOLES THROUGH YOUR PLASTICS FOR THE TOPS.

The Underside:

CVT Intake:
First you are going to need to completely remove your OEM Cvt intake to allow you to cut it down.. this can be done without removing rad hoses ETC but it is tricky wiggling it out.









Next you are going to need to remove the little "box" the cvt intake is located to cut this cvt intake tube down. Where you cut can depend slightly but there are 2 things that must happen. The cut MUST be inside the little plastic almost container unit for the 2" to 1.5" Rubber Reducer may fit. And Second you must cut so where the reducer slides on to is ROUND AND STRAIGHT if not when using the rubber coupler it could leak from improper seating.

















Next install your 2" to 1.5" Rubber Reducer.










Next you are going to need to cut the top corner piece of your box that goes under the cowl.










At this point you can install your "Box" and cvt intake back in the bike. 










Next you need to cut a short piece of 1.5" pipe about 3" long(depending on where you put the reducers on the oem piping) and attach a long 1.5" 90 to the end. The end with the pipe in it will go into your 2" to 1.5" Reducer and the open end will sit where you cut the top corner out of the "Box".


















You may want to unhook some of the plugs from the 2 towers in the picture above. These will all go back in place but for now it can make things easier to maneuver around.

Next you will need another length of 1.5" pipe approx 5" long and a 1.5 Short 90 Street Fitting (pic below is not street fitting this was mock up stage) This is the final section of the CVT intake to bring it to the postion it needs to go through your dash plastic.













CVT Exhaust:

The CVT Exhaust snorkel is the most complicated of all and will take some time to get right do not rush through this. First you are going to need to remove the rubber boot that goes from your cvt exhaust into your exhaust heat shield. Next you will need to SLIGHTLY push your Exhaust heat shield in. This is only to give a gap between the cvt exhaust snorkel and the heat shield and give everything some breathing room. Next you are going to need to put a 1.5" Rubber Coupler on the end of your factory CVT Exhaust and clamp it down.








Next you will need to cut it down so it is almost flush with your exhaust heat shield. Also cut it at a slight angle to make your 1.5" 90 street fitting sit parallel with the heat shield. This will take a bit of time to cut properly. Next put a piece of 1.5" pipe approx 12" long into the end of your street fitting. This length and position will depend on proper placement of the next long 1.5" 90. It is very important you align these two joints so the pipe can travel through a very tight area across to the other side of the bike.









The long 90 on this current side needs to be position so the pipe attached to cross through the bike will sit BEHIND the DPS unit above your front head valve cover and as far away from the exhaust pipe as possible. Heat tape and wrap will be needed for this area which I will explain later on.










After you get your 1.5" pipe traveling through the bike you will come out the other side under your overflow bottle and next to your rad hoses. At this point if you want to make the snorkel removable you need to add a 1.5" Rubber Coupler (listed in parts list). attach the coupler just before the next coming 1.5" long 90 on your piece of pipe that travels through the bike. It should be position right after passing over the valve cover and at the most accessible point. After your coupler is added put a piece of pipe in one of your 1.5" long 90s to reach to your coupler and still come out the other side.



















Next you will need your 1.5" 22.5 and a short piece of pipe just to fit in both the socket of the 22.5 and the long 90 you are coming off of. This will avoid the "T" in the rad hoses.










Next attach a piece of 1.5" pipe approx 10" long to bring the CVT exhaust to the top side of the bike. Once there attach another long 1.5" 90 to turn it towards your CVT intake snorkel.










Next add another small piece of 1.5" pipe approx 3.5" long and then your 1.5 90 street fitting to get ready to put it through your plastics.

Now once your are SURE everything in your CVT exhaust is lined up remove the bottom/crossing half of the CVT exhaust snorkel and glue it. Just incase you will need to wrap this in heat tape and heat wrap. You can apply it in any layer design you like but the best would be tape-wrap-tape.



















Through the Plastics:

At this point still unglued you are ready to cut your center plastics/ dash piece to prepare your snorkels to come through. I would reccomend squaring your CVT intake and exhaust snorkels then installing the plastic back on and marking where they come through. Once you have the general idea and since you didn't glue them you can cut your holes centered and where you want them and adjust your snorkels accordingly. Cut the holes to the size of the O.D of your 1.5 Rubber Couplers (these sizes can depend on different producers of the couplers some are thicker rubber than others)










Once your holes are you need to take your 2 1.5" rubber couplers and place them through the plastic and onto your snorkels.


















Now you can FINALLY completely glue and clamp both CVT snorkels down. make sure to mark properly and keep re adjusting/realigning after each section is glued and finished. Also once complete it doesn't hurt to tape your CVT exhaust snorkel where it passes by your rad hoses.










Next you can reinstall your front fenders. A little trimming is required for the CVT exhaust snorkel (ALL HIDDEN UNDERNEATH) see pics below.



















Once cut before you bolt your front fenders down be sure to seal off your duck bill drain on the air box with silicone while you have easy access. I also zip tied the duck bill and other drain for a tighter seal.


















At this point you can reinstall your front fenders side plastics as well as the "boxs"/wheel well plastics and bring everything back to the OEM look. All connectors and wires should return to there original positions and everything can be bolted down. Depending on how close/tight you made the CVT exhaust you may need to zip tie your left side plastic due to it touching so it doesn't rub the snorkel and will sit properly. Where your side plastics pins fit in the rubber gromets to hold it simply drill a small hole through the mount for the pin and put the zip tie through it and also through the rubber gromet. This will lock the plastic into place and keep it from popping out or rubbing the snorkel. Again sometimes this is needed sometimes not depending on how close you were able to pull the cvt exhaust snorkel into the bike.












Air Box Snorkel:

This one is pretty basic. Simply cut the OEM rubber intake down so the 90 at the end is removed.

After that is done I would mark the hole for your 2" coupler to go through the center plastics and then cut it. 

















Next take your 1.5" to 2" PVC reducer and glue a small piece of 1.5" pipe to it. Then take your 2" 45 street fitting and glue it into the 2" end. 









Then slide this onto your OEM air box intake boot.










Next cut a piece of pipe to line up flush or a small amount under your center/dash plastics. This is so your 2" Rubber coupler can attach.










Now again once you are sure everything is lined up through your dash plastic you can cut your boot down to the desired height and clamp it down.


























Now before you put your cowl back on the last step is to silicone your air box/air filter lid. The foam O-ring will NOT seal properly. It is important you silicone the cover air and water tight. After your done siliconing the cover make sure to double check all your clamps for boots and make sure everything is glued then you can install all your plastics/seat and return everything to normal.





















The Tops:

Air Box Top:

Take a 2" 90 street fitting and a piece of pipe long enough to fit into 2 sockets and glue it in. Then but the regular 2" 45 against the 90 street square and glue.










CVT tops:

Both are the same with the exception of the 45 at the end turned in opposite directions. Take a short piece of 1.5" pipe and glue it into a long 1.5" 90 for each side and place in boots. Then extend pipe to desired length cut and add 1.5" 45s for each side.


















These tops if done correctly will not interfere with complete turning of the handle bars (which is a lot on the G2s)


If you have any questions feel free to ask here but before that check the photo bucket pictures and see if they can answer your question first. If not I can farther explain for you.


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## DirtyBrutes

Very nice!


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## Polaris425

Wow! :rockn: Great job dude.


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## Cal3bCart3r

Wow u did it!! Thts awesome!!


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## Waddaman

Thanks guys. Sorry it took sooo long P425 i told you about this months ago... but been busy with high school graduation and all that..

I also have a full Hard PVC/ABS build for the G2 Outlanders I will post up after I get this one finished and edited the way i like.


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## Psionicwiz

Great writeup, excellent details and i can speak for anyone like myself thank you for taking the time to take the pictures and write this up!


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## whitesuspect

Dang! That looks sweet!!! Lot better looking then that busted kit I bought.. ((pre assembled, easy to install)))) BS


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## beer10t

Thank you for this excellent write-up and pics. This will be very helpful in our install on my wife and my Rene 1000 XXC's. Since we have got these early this year we are doing more mud runs than we did with our Raptor 660s. LOL!

Have you noticed any decrease in power due to the restriction of the pipes(all the bends)?

Thanks again.

beer10t


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## That White Kid

Am I the only one wondering where your tires went lol


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## wideawakejake

outstanding indeed!


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