# welding on rear end



## joemel (Mar 1, 2010)

well i put thin question in my old post but maybe this is better we welded the rear end on my lil bro 2003 450 foreman but it didnt hold long we was thinking we welded it with the wrong type of rods for the metal can anyone help me out with this


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## tacoma_2002 (Jul 16, 2009)

I'm guessing you mean the ring gear on the axle.

You'll need a good 220v MIG to really burn it together. I'm guessing your not getting much penetration with the ARC.

Make C style welds ex. ))))))))) . These are the strongest welds and is what's required when welding roll cages to meet CORR and SCORE specs.


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## lowcountrytj (Apr 10, 2011)

What did you use to spool the rear(what welder/rods??


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Yeah and exactly what parts are you welding?


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## tacoma_2002 (Jul 16, 2009)

lowcountrytj said:


> What did you use to spool the rear(what welder/rods??


Its a SRA so no spider gears here.

The Foremans are known to strip the splines off the axle/ring gear, so I assume this is what he's welding. Probably not enough juice from the welder.


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## joemel (Mar 1, 2010)

we used 7018 stick rods and yeah we welding the ring gear to the axle yeah we had plenty of juice we used my uncle welding truck i just dont think the 7018s were rite for that


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## lowcountrytj (Apr 10, 2011)

7018's probably isnt your issue...I am guessing here....Did you clean all the fluids off before you started? You get your best weld with a 7018 with a clean/dry surface.
If there was any oil anywhere close to your heat it tends to boil it and you end up with a mess lol.
6011 is more foregiving in dirtier enviroment.
Hope you get it fixed.:bigok:


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## joemel (Mar 1, 2010)

yeah we cleaned and buffed everything BUT we only welded one side of the ring i know that didnt help i was just wondering if a dif type of rod would be better thanks for the help tho its why i like this site so much always ppl willing to help out


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## lowcountrytj (Apr 10, 2011)

Ya got me curious now lol:thinking:


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## hooliganhodgie (Mar 15, 2010)

i would try a higher tensile rod like unicrome or ultra chrome (depending what brand). I think it has a strenght of 110000psi where 7018 has 70000. I use it for odd little jobs and never had it break. You can use it on a wide variety of metals too. The only draw back is it ain't cheap.


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## lowcountrytj (Apr 10, 2011)

^^Yep^^Good idea^^

Did the weld break loose or did the weld crack?
Just trying to picture it without seeing it.


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## joemel (Mar 1, 2010)

well i really dont know when i left he hadnt tore it down yet im relaying the info i get from yall back home in louisiana via txt but it quit all off a sudden just normal riding on dry ground after a few hours nutn major at all im thinking it just twisted the weld of like lack of penetration


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## wood butcher (May 11, 2009)

i would say that u would need to preheat something as hard as a ring gear before starting to weld on it


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## joemel (Mar 1, 2010)

i aint thought of that but it makes dang good sence


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## hooliganhodgie (Mar 15, 2010)

wood butcher said:


> i would say that u would need to preheat something as hard as a ring gear before starting to weld on it


:agreed:Good call wood butcher, i didn't think of that. Anything in the driveline (gears etc.) will be a high carbon steel, you gotta chuck some heat in there and even a little post heat will help.


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## JPs300 (Mar 23, 2011)

The axle is hardened as well as the ring gear. I'd pre-heat both to around 450*, do maybe half the welding, throw them back in the heat for another 20-30 min, finish weld, then put them back on heat for 20-30 min and then allow to cool slowly. 

TIG would be considerably more ideal for this, IMO.


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## bigdigger1527 (Dec 1, 2009)

6011 rods would be ideal and arc welders will do fine in that area, they actually pull more power and weld hotter than most migs out there, i weld for a living with a commercial 420 power welder and the arc of the same power, pulls more than the mig, just thought i would throw that out there


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