# Front Diff question



## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

*Hey folks, wondering if anyone`s completely tore down there front diff on a 2004 prairie 360? Mine was completely out of fluid and all my bearings r shot. Found rebuild Kit for bearings and seals for like $60, My question is: Does the disc assembly in the diff contain fiber and metal disc? I popped pins and looking at mine all i see is metal and what looks to be copper,i think the copper is suppose to be fiber like on a clutch but i`m trying to make sure. cheapest i found part 41080-1512 was $165. if there`s not fiber ill just clean them and re install. If needed I can try to add pics of my disc.Thanks for any help. *


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## adamwedge (Jan 4, 2014)

They are the same as a clutch pack, fiber disks and plates. If it was completely out of fluid, fluid got out and crap got in. I would completely disassemble, clean and assess the situation.


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

*I have done that. If there's suppose to be fiber on any of them plates they are toast. : ( I'll try to post some pictures.*


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## adamwedge (Jan 4, 2014)

Been riding around with the yellow lever zip tied to the bars? lol

It should be same as a clutch pack in a bike IE: Plate/Fiber Disk/Plate/Fiber Disk etc...


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

full rebuild kit is 90.00 with all bearings and seals


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

Brute 840 said:


> full rebuild kit is 90.00 with all bearings and seals


Does that include the disc assemble? I found bearing and seal kit for $60 but doesn't include the disc assemble.


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## adamwedge (Jan 4, 2014)

no no no. that's just seals and bearings, I'll PM you link to pack.


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

I have some used discs if you want there still in good shape for cheap.


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

brutemike if I would have seen your post sooner I would have gotten them disc. I got new ones. Waiting on 2 more bearings that weren`t in kit I ordered then will try to get it all back together. 

*Any tricks on how to get the bearing off the pinion gear shaft? book says to chisel off tabs that lock it on then it should break loose. Tried that with no luck. Should I just take it to machine shop? Looked to see if anyone made a home made tool to hold gear I couldn't find any.*


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

*Update: Finally got all parts. 
Gonna try to get them in tonight or tomorrow. 
Was wondering when others changed out there bearings if you left the seals on the bearings or if you removed them. 
The stock bearings didn't have seals. 
Also what fluid does everyone recommend. I'm hoping I don't have any problems with leaks. I had problem with the input shaft leaking in the past. Any suggestions or tricks to get it all back together correctly? Just wondering if anyone had problems putting it back together.*


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## adamwedge (Jan 4, 2014)

I took a bunch of pictures as I was tearing mine down so I know what goes where and how it goes. If you get in a bind, let me know.


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

Have to check clearance on one of the cases after i get bearings in. Started cleaning them and noticed A nice dent in one of them. Its not cracked so long as it doesn't rub I should be ok. If its not one thing its another. For reassembly I have the repair manual. So I shouldn't have any problems.


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

There is a dent on the bottom left case from factory not sure why but there is so if that is what you have u r fine


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

*Pics of my front diff*

Ok folks, Here's some pics of my front diff, My question is, does it look clean enough to reassemble? Also what oil would be best to run in there? If anyone feels it should be cleaner, please let me know what to use to get them cleaner. I bought some degreaser and scrub the heck out of all the parts. My brother said he seen something online about a home made mix that cleans the cases well. Anyone know what that would be? Also going to post another pic after these ones, the one outer casing has 2 nicks were the seal goes. Should I try to dremmle them smooth. I just don't want to make them worse. Thanks for any advise.







































---------- Post added at 10:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 PM ----------

Ok here's a close up of the side case. Has 2 or 3 nicks. should I just dremel them smooth? The nicks are at about 10 o'clock 6 o'clock and 3 o'clock.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

If the nicks hinder the seal's outer surface from sealing property, then just smooth thenmto be the same as the rest but no more. Be super careful. And I would flush spray the cases with carb spray and wipe dry just to make sure.


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

*Bearing question!!!*

*Ordered a Bearing Kit and it came with sealed bearings. Should I pull the seals out so they are like the factory bearings or leave them in? Soon as I get an answer I'm going to reassemble the diff.*

*Thanks for the speedy replys.*


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

*Major help needed!!!*

Hi folks, front diff question.

Went to reinstall the bearings for my front diff. 

The needle bearing that goes on the bevel-gear is way loose. it doesn't even touch the shaft. Is it possible I wore out the shaft that bad? Or could I have gotten the wrong bearing? The kit I got gave me a bearing nk-17x25x13. I compared it to the bearing I removed. the outer diameter is the same size but all the needles are out of the old one so there's know way to compare them. Don't know what to do. Any ideas????


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

*Pics of the Bearings.*

*Ok here's pics of the bearings. The new one is on the Left. I believe the needles in the bearing on the left are smaller than the ones on the old bearing on the right. The needles on the old bearing all fell out and don't have a clue were they are to see if its even close. I figured it was just a different design with the same bearing. So did I get the wrong bearing in the kit? I'll try to add pic of the pinion shaft. I don't think its worn. *










Here's pic of bearing on shaft. Know way it will work.










Here's the shaft without bearing.


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## adamwedge (Jan 4, 2014)

Shaft looks fine from the picture you posted. I'd say the bearing is couple mils off. Even if shaft was wore out, if that were correct bearing, there shouldn't be that much slop in it. Have where you ordered it from double check their part numbers.

---------- Post added at 01:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:24 AM ----------

Try and cross reference OEM #- 92046-1297


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## pprguy (Mar 4, 2011)

adamwedge said:


> Shaft looks fine from the picture you posted. I'd say the bearing is couple mils off. Even if shaft was wore out, if that were correct bearing, there shouldn't be that much slop in it. Have where you ordered it from double check their part numbers.
> 
> ---------- Post added at 01:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:24 AM ----------
> 
> Try and cross reference OEM #- 92046-1297


 
*Adam I tried cross referencing that part number on like 6 different sites. Not one of them shows the size of the bearing. But looking at new bearing compared to old the pins are larger on the old than the new. I don't know. Guess I have to wait till Monday to call place I ordered bearings from and see if they sent me wrong one. Sucks tho. Like I have all this free time to waste. Wanted to get it done this weekend but guess I can't. *
*Old part # 92046-1281 *
*New # 92046-1297 & AJ5015*
*Bearing they sent me just has size NK17x25x13 *
*Hoping its just the wrong bearing cause if the shaft some how worn out that much its like $260 for new one. *

*Nothings ever easy for me.*

*Tried to get my sons mongoose 90 running so we can sell it and it wont rev up at all, hoping it just needs a good carb cleaning & a spark plug. *


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## gcfishguy (Nov 21, 2010)

I would have to say this is the bearing you're supposed to have. Same OD, fewer but larger diameter rollers....
92046-1297 or AJ501515









If you can find a decent pic of a rebuild kit, you can see it the same as the pic above..Zoom in here

If you have a bearing store where you live, take the shaft and the old bearing to them. Unless that bearing was built for that one specific application, they should be able to measure the Od and thickness, combined with the shaft diameter and sell you one...or they might be able to cross the AJ501515 number to a common bearing number. Also, if you haven't, check the race closely on the old one and see if there's a number on the race.

I'm also in the 'half year, Canadian only model, never saw that before, never easy' club, so I feel your pain.


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