# 1k outty full 2" snorkels & RDC rad relocate - write up & pics



## JPs300

Most of y'all know by now how I do my write-ups, bunch of pics & info all done at once after the build is done. 

TIME FOR A TEASER!!!!!! :jester: - lol


Bishes be like, "you ain't fitting full 2" for everything on a G2". - I be like, "Wanna bet?"


Only ONE panel cut, zero mods to any other plastics & all fit/snap into place like stock. 


























I'll write it up for a "pretty please"........lol.......:biggrin:


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## Polaris425

PLLLEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAASSSSSSSSSEEEEEEEEEEE  I got more black stickers.


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## JPs300

LOL - I'm not above bribery. - Just been waiting on the pics he took while I was working to be sent over. I have a good amount, but my phone was plugged in for tunes so he has some that I don't.



Gotta say, the G2 outty's look pretty sweet sans the front rack & bumper. Aggressive looking like a 'gade, but still full fenders to keep from eating it. 









RDC's rad kit is nice as well (you can see the snork tips peaking up while all was still white) -


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## jrpro130

Looks awesome! Might be my "new" way to snorkel the G2 outty because (as you know in my writeup) there is extensive cutting and we still have major problems with plastics popping off

How did you secure the snorkel riser to the radiator?


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## JPs300

Simple flat-strap aluminum bracket that bolts to the OE upper rad mount holes on the fan shroud.


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## jrpro130

Pretty awesome!!!`


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## JPs300

******


So, my buddy (newbie on here, Blknite23) picked up a new 1k outty XT from our dealer, worked a set of s/w OG 29.5 laws in the deal on the bike, did the PVC bushing spring spacers and put it's first 10hrs on it out at our last park ride @ RYC. - Rubberdown rad relocate came in last week & he dropped it off to me to do the snorks & install the rad kit. 

It seems all the store bought kits route everything up through the center pod, and only use 1-1/2". Takes A LOT of cutting to get everything in place and there seem to be lots of complaints about getting all the plastics fit back up properly around everything. Many also dictate loosing the hand-guards and/or the risers standing out from teh machine like a sore thumb. 

Though it's probably adequate, I'm not a fan of only using 1-1/2" to feed these big motors & cool the belt box. That said, with all the fitment issues people have had with 1-1/2" its seems common opinion is 2" won't fit. I beg to differ. 2" may not fit when using $20 dollars worth of PVC parts thrown in a box & shipped to you for $100+, but it can be done with relative ease with the right products & routing. 

As always, I used Flexibile Technologies' flex hose(part# preffix of 0354) for all the routing. Risers are made with various 2" PVC fittings/pipe, and connections are made with metal exhaust couplings available from most any local automotive parts store. - The thin wall exhaust couplings offer maximum strength to clamp onto while being the least restrictive inside diameter. You can also get various "jump" sizes, thus making for easy transitions between factory port/connection sizes & the 2" hose. 

I really wasn't happy with any fitment trying to run everything in the pod. Between the cutting required to all the bracketry, riser fitment around the handlebars, and just the general ability to "streamline" the risers into the profil of the bike it just wasn't going to work to suit me. Since he was doing the rad relocate at the same time it was rather simple to instead move the risers out & blend them in with the rad mount. 




Without further ado, I'll get to the pics & descriptions: 

First off, props to RDC for a well thought-out rad relocate bracket. Yes, that would be a slot cut precisely as need to fit a wrench in to tighten the rad down. -










Initial mock-up of the rad relocate & center riser. - 



























As shown above in previous post, mounting them was fairly simple. The radiator bolts to the RDC bracket from the front, thus the factory upper mount holes in the fan shroud are open/un-used in the back. An 8" long section of hardware store 1/8"thick x 1"wide aluminum strap made a simple & very effective mount. I bent it in a vise to offset if forward some to tuck the risers up tight as possible. -









The center snork bolts to the strap, the side two bolt to the center snork. Each risers consist of a single 45* coupler, a 22* coupler, and a 6" section of pipe out the bottom(center is a 5" section, to allow a little more room above center brace in the front rack). -














































PVC sizing is done per the ID, just like hose. Thus I simply use a 2" section of 2" OD exhaust tubing to slide inside the PVC & clamp the hose over. Each section is siliconed into the PVC & attached with three aluminum rivets. - 









I use a "flapper" sanding disc to remove all the casting markings(edges, words, etc) in the PVC couplers, then hand sand with 80, then 400 grit, then paint with auto parts-store rattle can bedliner spray. Gives a nice semi-gloss finish very similar to the factory platics(such as the pod) and is very durable. 


















The factory air-box hose is just over 1-3/4". Being that's the factory inlet size & I was going to be shortening it down, I didn't see that there would be a "real world" gain stepping it up to 2" into the box, especially for the time/effort invloved. Thus I used a 2" od x 1-3/4"ID exhaust adapter. 









Factory inlet hose shortened & flex hooked up, routed out - 









Air box hose coming down/forward from up top, belt intake going up/forward with a short section of heat/abrasive gaurd, due to proximity of head pipe. (don't mind the rad hose/connection, was temp to move the bike one night while working) - 









The factory belt exhaust riser tube & stock exhaust heat shield - 









I removed & reworked(some hand bending, some hammer & vise anvil work) the front of the exhaust heat shield to add some extra room between it and the side plastic, thus allowing my 2" to fit through w/o distorting the plastics. Basically just angled the front bend instead of leaving it running straight way out away from the head pipe in the front. Up front as factory it has A LOT of extra clearance between the head pipe & shield, thus it's no tighter now that the rest of it is behind this point factory. - 


















A 2-1/4" ID exhaust coupling fits SNUGLY over the factory cvt exhaust, thus I simply siliconed it & put a couple rivets in to secure it. The coupling I used is of course stepped to 2" so my hose would slide right over it. I use a short section of actual 2-1/2" fire hose to protect the flex from the direct heat/contact on the exhaust shield. It's zip tied back towards the front, but the side plastic sits directly in front of it & would hold it back no problem. - 



















kinda blurry, but all three hoses heading up front - 









Looped up top, with the "hood" still off -









Another view, with everything in place(including rad hoses) - 









The basic pattern of the cut-outs in the "hood" plastic. I simply cut them to the size/shape of the holes in the rack. **this is the ONLY piece cut of the factory stuff***-









I did sand/smooth the bottom edge of the rack though, as factory the dang thing would cut your hands just washing around the bottom edge of it!









Hoses standing up through the "hood" - 









And up through the rack/behind the rad. I put the zip-tie in to wrap around the bottom of the center riser to take out any vibration/shake/etc. ***Check that OE molded rad hose; that's the factory lower hose flipped around. The bend offsets fit PERFECTLY to get the hose down below the plastics, then a simple 1" barb splice and short section of the 1" hose included with the rad kit to hook it back onto the T housing(connection can be seen in above under fender shot of hoses). - 









All in place/hooked up (gotta spray-bomb the hoses black, hit them before hooking them up & they weren't dry enough so gotta kinda fudged)- 
























































I'll let him get some good over-all shots during the day when he gets a chance(probably next week with his work schedule). Was 9ish when we finished up last night & my phone was so dead the flash was crap.


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## JPs300

JPS300 said:


> The factory air-box hose is just over 1-3/4". Being that's the factory inlet size & I was going to be shortening it down, I didn't see that there would be a "real world" gain stepping it up to 2" into the box, especially for the time/effort invloved. Thus I used a 2" od x 1-3/4"ID exhaust adapter.


 

If you want a that last 3/16" of an inch for a 100% true 2" air-box inlet you can easily use a short section of 2" exhaust tubing welded to a flat plate "flange" & bolt it through the air box; similar to what I did on my 800, but you could go straight in to the OE air box port. 

Pic of my 800 for reference to above -


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## jrpro130

Wow man, that is slick! I am usually a fan of ALL PVC but the outty is such a pain I think your way comes out a lot better...I can't explain how much plastic has to be cut and how much has to be moved out of the way/relocated and then on top of that the plastics don't fit right sometimes when you put them back on! And only one piece of plastic cut.

:thumbsup:


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## TEXAN AVIATOR

Nice job man!!


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## JPs300

Thanks guys. - The inner fenders snap right back in as well, just didn't get any pics of that yet.




I've actually never done one with all hard pipe, would drive me nuts working around it. The hose I have works great & hoilds up quite well. I have a couple set-ups pushing 8-10 years now w/o any issues.


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## Polaris425

JPs300 said:


> *Hoses standing up through the "hood" - *



I know why those hoses are standing up....






:bigeyes:


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## JPs300

HAHAHAHA!!!! - that's actually the sales girl from the dealership we use


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## dookie

I noticed that in the back ground too. :bigeyes:


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## gtsum2

Very impressive mods!


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## Blknite23

Thanks everyone, JP KILLED it, looks great so much room with the pod still intact. once i get coolant in it and change out a couple temp fittings and get some paint on the pipes ill snap a few pics with the inner fenders re-installed to show the finished product.. again props to Rubber Down Customs for making a killer rad kit. SUPER impressed... but in your next kit add a few straight barb connections...i had to buy 2 to finish the job and the factory pipe flipped is PERFECT as JP pointed out.


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## Rubberdown

Awesome write up. We did however improve our rad kit, we lowered the profile a bit, and the rack mounting bolts closest to the pod are now using the factory mounting holes in the rack (like the forward mounting holes), so its not a pain in the ***** to get those bolts in place anymore LOL.


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## Blknite23

Rubberdown said:


> Awesome write up. We did however improve our rad kit, we lowered the profile a bit, and the rack mounting bolts closest to the pod are now using the factory mounting holes in the rack (like the forward mounting holes), so its not a pain in the ***** to get those bolts in place anymore LOL.


NOW you modify it  lol did you check on the rad 1" to 1" 90 degree fittings? it fits so much better with straight ones used.. just our opinion ( Plus the factory hose worked so well 

amazing kit tho guys so happy with the quality of the rad kit.


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## JPs300

Rubberdown said:


> Awesome write up. We did however improve our rad kit, we lowered the profile a bit, and the rack mounting bolts closest to the pod are now using the factory mounting holes in the rack (like the forward mounting holes), so its not a pain in the ***** to get those bolts in place anymore LOL.


 
I thought it was simple enough as it was, lol. I pulled the rack & "hood" piece to pull the rad, so I simply bolted the rad into your bracket & then your backet onto the rack while it was still off the bike & everything was out in the open. 

Very nice piece for sure. As Blknite23 noted, we used one of the 90* couplers you included & sourced two straight hose couplers for very clean fitment. Flipping the lower hose around and putting it on the rad & extending the line down by the T-housing really made it fit nicely.


The rad on those 1k's is a freakin parasail, only so much you can do with it fitment/looks wise - LOL.


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## StuChuck

Yeah, bug when you run that cheap hose I bet it's collapsed down to 1-1/2 in places


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## filthyredneck

^i actually dont believe the hose jp uses is cheap at all, last i heard it is a very high quality marine hose, similar to whats under my plastics on my renegade.


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## DrillersGoDeeper

*Seen many many snorkles done using that marine hose and never seen/heard of any problems caused due to the flex hose...*

*Great job & write up JP*


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## StuChuck

filthyredneck said:


> ^i actually dont believe the hose jp uses is cheap at all, last i heard it is a very high quality marine hose, similar to whats under my plastics on my renegade.


Maybe I am mistaken, on the type of hose being used here. The pipe that I have seen around here that is ribbed like that, is a glorified vacuum hose. And IMO as soon as it makes a curve drastically cuts down airflow. 

I personally prefer hose that has a smooth inside, better airflow.


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## JPs300

StuChuck said:


> Yeah, bug when you run that cheap hose I bet it's collapsed down to 1-1/2 in places


???? - if that was directed towards me/this thread you need to actually look at the info posted on that hose before you respond. - It has a helical wire & will handle full vaccum w/o any ID change, as this is exactly what it's designed for.


I've sold hose/fittings for a living for 10+ years, this is what I do.


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## StuChuck

JPs300 said:


> ???? - if that was directed towards me/this thread you need to actually look at the info posted on that hose before you respond. - It has a helical wire & will handle full vaccum w/o any ID change, as this is exactly what it's designed for.
> 
> 
> I've sold hose/fittings for a living for 10+ years, this is what I do.


Good to know.

Did you not read my last post were I stated I may have mistaken the type of hose used?

I on the other hand have not sold fittings for the last 10 years so I am certain you know more then me on the subject.

I have seen similar hose used and I didn't like the quality. So I don't use it.

If I offended you then don't post things on a public forum where you may encounter criticism.


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## JPs300

No offense taken, and no I didn't realize the thread had split to a second page. Sorry if I came off defensive, I've gotten a lot of comments before because people automatically assume it's just "spa hose" or "vacuum cleaner hose" and post w/o reading the info provided. 


It is somewhat what you could call a "glorified vacuum hose", as it is simply an industrial flex ducting hose. - I have at least 20 bikes running this hose, a couple of which have been done for almost 10 years now w/o any problems, *very few* other snorkel jobs can claim that on machines that get used most every weekend. Plus, it's super easy to work around since you can simply unhook one end & flex it back out of the way.



I have never & will never run an all hard-pipe snorkel. Too much of a pita to do, even more of a pita to work around, and far more prone to fatigue/crack/failure over time due to not allowing for flex. Also more likely to mess up plastics over time, again due to lack of flex.


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## StuChuck

Hey JP,

Thanks for the additional info. I agree it would be nice when servicing your machine. I use flex PVC for the same reason. It has a little give to it if you jar something. I guess time will tell how it holds up to the elements.

Happy snorkelling


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## Blknite23

Speaking of Hard Kits... while bombing around 82 at our local hole..i saw a small graveyard of someones hard kit in the bushes and some pieces near the water lol kinda got a chuckle out of it...


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## JPs300

Blknite23 said:


> Speaking of Hard Kits... while bombing around 82 at our local hole..i saw a small graveyard of someones hard kit in the bushes and some pieces near the water lol kinda got a chuckle out of it...


 
lol - we ran into a guy out there one time that was bragging about having run the motor intake, belt intake, and belt exhaust all in one riser.........he was really proud of having T'd everything together under the plastics......:eek5:


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## Blknite23

JPs300 said:


> lol - we ran into a guy out there one time that was bragging about having run the motor intake, belt intake, and belt exhaust all in one riser.........he was really proud of having T'd everything together under the plastics......:eek5:



isnt that like plugging your power Strip into itself ?? Infinite power!!!!

his bike was sucking and blowing all at the same time .. Infinite Power!!
:agreed:


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## JPs300

Yessir, that's the "electric generator" of snorkel systems.


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## OuttyAutobot

Looks good. The RDC rad relocate mount looks well made as well


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## Cal3bCart3r

JP, could u give me a price on about 25 ft of this hose? in 1.5" ...you can PM if needed


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## bigmike2121

JP, whats the exact part number? and can it be purchased through you?


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## JPs300

Part numbers on the stuff I use:
2" is 0354-0200-0001
1-1/2" is 0354-0150-0001

If you have any sort of indutrial/hydraulic hose place around you they may be able to get it or might have a similar product offering already. 

I can sell/ship it but try not to step on any toes on the forums. - Doesn't make me any $ anyway, I'm just an employee(store mngr). PM me if needed.


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## ericr33914

Here are some pictures of the snorkels JP did on my 1k outty, they came out great!


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## JPs300

Thanks for posting the pics Erik. Those risers are probably the cleanest I have ever done, making me think about re-doing my own....lol.


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## Outty13

Awesome job on the snorkels and rad relocation ... I think im going to do mine the way u have done it here if ya dont mind me using your idea man


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## JPs300

have out man! I wouldn't post it if I didn't want to help others.


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## Outty13

Thanks man


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## Outty13

I don't mean to step on any toes but can u pm me a price on 25 foot of the hose u use


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## JPs300

Sorry man, I don't get on much since changing careers. 

As eluded above, I don't work there any more. Check Flexible Technologies website for vendors on the hose.

---------- Post added at 05:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:13 PM ----------

I'll try to upload some pics to pb soon & get them posted. 

Re-did the silver 1k, eliminated the front rack entirely. Tube mounted the RDC cover, hung the 8" audio tubes & re-did the risers to suit.


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## Ruffrider13

I'm looking at doing a setup like this to my outlander. What was the fitting you used for the cvt intake? You mentioned the fittings for air intake and cvt exhaust. Wanna make sure I have all the parts ready before I take my quad apart.

Thanks


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## tophrob

Looks like a much better/easier way to snorkel than anything I've seen. I bought the SYATV kit...haven't installed yet, and am re-thinking that decision after reading this. Maybe I missed it, but approximately how many feet of the hose do you need for this setup?


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## JPs300

Sorry guys, I don't make it to the forums very often any more.

Connectors are just auto parts store exhaust couplings. One side 2" OD to fit the hose, the other side whatever is needed for the connection. 

Maybe 10' of the flex hose total.


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