# top end rebuilt now a big oil leak



## tyler'sgrizz (May 14, 2010)

yes i got it back together it fired RIGHT up no knocks, smoke or even valve chatter. i was checking it for leaks and i found a big one right below the exhaust on the right side. has the gasket not been seated right? is it just bad? its made by tusk... i would hate to have to go back in there and install a new gasket. is there something that i can do instead of going back in? i have some yamabond. help ASAP PLEASE!!! also, i have a torque wrench and i didnt use it. I have no idea how to. the directions are crap.


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

Could have a warp in the head. You need to pull it again. Try copper coat on your new gaskets.oh mill the head 3 one thousands usually does it. If you don't have a machine shop close, sandpaper and a large piece of glass for a true flat surface.


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## tyler'sgrizz (May 14, 2010)

Roboquad said:


> Could have a warp in the head. You need to pull it again. Try copper coat on your new gaskets.oh mill the head 3 one thousands usually does it. If you don't have a machine shop close, sandpaper and a large piece of glass for a true flat surface.


its bored .40 over now.... what do you mean warp? sounds bad. the machine shop said that the cylinder didnt look bad at all.


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## tyler'sgrizz (May 14, 2010)

UPDATE!: its coming from where the cylinder meets the cylinder head on the right side. maybe i missed a bolt? can warpage be fixed? i dont have any of these bolts torqued to specs i just tightened them.. i own a torque wrench. i have no idea how to use it though


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

A warp is going to be where the head meets the jug. Can not see it with naked eye.. Sometimes when you separate the two they don't meet back together just right.. Around where you see the top of the valves,the flat head ain't so flat. I have even had a warp in the jug. Once they leak, not something you can just re tighten. I assume the leak is coming from the cam chain side. you got to get back in it. Sorry bout the bad news, been there b4.3 times. now its great but I wanted to shoot it back then. Copper coat the new gaskets as well. high comp race bikes do it that way all the time. that's how I set mine up.


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## tyler'sgrizz (May 14, 2010)

Roboquad said:


> A warp is going to be where the head meets the jug. Can not see it with naked eye.. Sometimes when you separate the two they don't meet back together just right.. Around where you see the top of the valves,the flat head ain't so flat. I have even had a warp in the jug. Once they leak, not something you can just re tighten. I assume the leak is coming from the cam chain side. you got to get back in it. Sorry bout the bad news, been there b4.3 times. now its great but I wanted to shoot it back then. Copper coat the new gaskets as well. high comp race bikes do it that way all the time. that's how I set mine up.


should a machine shop be able to fix the warp if there is one? and does not having the bolts torqued to the specs cause this? thanks


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

Yes and yes, if the bolts were uneven torque previously or were torqued to varying specs, the engine will warp just enough. The head may not leak then but once off and honed etc. They don't go back on right. Take a good machine shop less than ten min. To fix. And bout $25 bucks if he's honest.


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## beach83 (Nov 5, 2010)

When you put it back together be sure to torque it this time, its very important to get the head tightened evenly on the jug. Also you will need to tighten the bolts in a criss cross or star pattern, and tighten in graduated increments. 
As far as your torque wrench go to you tube and type in, HOW TO USE A TORQUE WRENCH, there are many videos on there, just find one that has the same style torque wrench that you have.


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## tyler'sgrizz (May 14, 2010)

found out how to use it! yes! now to take off the carb, breathers and do it all over:saevilw: :agreed:?????


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