# xmr clutching



## cookgio

any body change theres and get better results ie more low end my buddy has one and he wants to change the clutching i heard changing to a 650 helix was the way to go but dont know. any info would be great.


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## biggun132

airdam is the best way to go with any can am.


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## Crawfishie!!

Yes, you can change to a 650 helix for around $50....depending on what your dealership sells then for. Also, change the weights to the weights that are in a renegade clutch. If you want to get a little more out of it, without spending a whole bunch of money...change the springs as well. These are simple yet effective and CHEAP ways to give your buddy quite a bit more performance out of his clutch without spending $900 on buying a new clutch.


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## JPs300

XMR already has renegade weights in the primary. 

The 650 helix will help the keep the r's up more under load and will back-shift quicker when you hit the throttle from a cruising speed. You can also add a primary spring to get a little more initial stall and/or shift-out rpm to help in thicker mud. 


Spending more than that on a stock primary clutch is a waste. There are substancial gains to be had from an aftermarket primary; the CVTech or QSC primary with either a machined secondary or an STM roller secondary. - Both have a smaller one-way bearing thus allowing a gear reduction for better take-off, and both have fixed sheeves thus far less tendency to slip the belt under heavy loads.


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## cookgio

JPs300 said:


> XMR already has renegade weights in the primary.
> 
> The 650 helix will help the keep the r's up more under load and will back-shift quicker when you hit the throttle from a cruising speed. You can also add a primary spring to get a little more initial stall and/or shift-out rpm to help in thicker mud.
> 
> 
> Spending more than that on a stock primary clutch is a waste. There are substancial gains to be had from an aftermarket primary; the CVTech or QSC primary with either a machined secondary or an STM roller secondary. - Both have a smaller one-way bearing thus allowing a gear reduction for better take-off, and both have fixed sheeves thus far less tendency to slip the belt under heavy loads.


so what your saying is clutch springs r the better way to go besides changing to aftermarket clutches.


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## swampthing

biggun132 said:


> airdam is the best way to go with any can am.


I disagree with the above statement. 

Xmr comes with 3 Renegade weights and 3 Outlander weights from factory.



I think that the best option for your friend's X mr is just a simple Dalton DBO 800M kit or a nice adjustable kit from QSC. Both are excellent options and have terrific customer service. A 650 helix is good for trail and mudhole ridin, but the stock X mr helix is stronger and more recommended for racing. A little tougher secondary spring and he should be good.


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## Crawfishie!!

^^^^AGREED 1,000,000%. Sorry to be so confusing with my post. Listen to these guys, they have it nailed down man....that's what I meant all along, just disint know how to put it into words.


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## JPs300

For note - my bud's '11 XMR came with renegade weights in all six locations & the BRP microfiche's show the same PN for the gade weight set & the XMR weight set through all years of the 800. 


IMO - If you ride much in thicker mud, the stock primary sucks donkey balls no matter whose kit is in it. The non-fixed outter sheeve will slip under heavier loads and will induce belt slip that much easier. No "clutch kit", weights, or springs can correct that. 

For that reason I see no point in investing over $100 into the stock clutching set-up. A set of springs or a spring & helix swap will get the job done till you can justify the cost of the better primary. - Why spend $300+ on a "clutch kit" that will still slip considerably more under load & won't gain you any take-off ratio? I just don't see the point in spending close to(sometimes more than) half the cost of a much better primary on just tuning the stocker. Even if tuned ideally it won't be as good as any of the aftermarket options with an off-the-shelf tune.


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## crwBrute7504x4I

JPs300 said:


> For note - my bud's '11 XMR came with renegade weights in all six locations & the BRP microfiche's show the same PN for the gade weight set & the XMR weight set through all years of the 800.
> 
> 
> IMO - If you ride much in thicker mud, the stock primary sucks donkey balls no matter whose kit is in it. The non-fixed outter sheeve will slip under heavier loads and will induce belt slip that much easier. No "clutch kit", weights, or springs can correct that.
> 
> For that reason I see no point in investing over $100 into the stock clutching set-up. A set of springs or a spring & helix swap will get the job done till you can justify the cost of the better primary. - Why spend $300+ on a "clutch kit" that will still slip considerably more under load & won't gain you any take-off ratio? I just don't see the point in spending close to(sometimes more than) half the cost of a much better primary on just tuning the stocker. Even if tuned ideally it won't be as good as any of the aftermarket options with an off-the-shelf tune.


In your opinion what would be the best aftermarket primary and secondary clutches to go with for my 2012 outlander 1000 base model?


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## JPs300

The "best" is a big debate, as I'm sure you've probably seen the various threads about the CVTech, the QSC, and the STM clutches. 

Personally, I see no point in the STM primary unless you're building a race-only bike and want every last ounce of tuneability/power out of the clutching. - Their roller secondary is nice though. 

My bud has the CVTech on his XMR along with the machined stock secondary and is very pleased with it. - His ability to take-off with & turn the tires is night/day over the stock primary, especially w/o having it stalled up much or giving up any trail-ability/cruising RPM. 

I'm personally planning to go with the QSC, but soley because I'm tired of Airdam's turn-around time being 2x or more than what he quotes & him being considerably harder to get ahold of than Adam @ QSC.


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## cookgio

swampthing said:


> I disagree with the above statement.
> 
> Xmr comes with 3 Renegade weights and 3 Outlander weights from factory.
> 
> 
> 
> I think that the best option for your friend's X mr is just a simple Dalton DBO 800M kit or a nice adjustable kit from QSC. Both are excellent options and have terrific customer service. A 650 helix is good for trail and mudhole ridin, but the stock X mr helix is stronger and more recommended for racing. A little tougher secondary spring and he should be good.


what secondary spring would you recommend.


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## swampthing

Not arguing about stock weights, just sharing what my tech told me.

I would also recommend a full primary replacement (QSC) as opposed to a kit, but the vast majority are apprehensive of spending anything more on their $10,000 plus investment and I'm sure you know that almost all of them will buy a kit first simply due to price. 

I also recommend a Dalton Yellow/Black secondary spring and a 650 helix as opposed to a STM roller secondary or ///Airdam secondary machining, again simply due to cost.


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## crwBrute7504x4I

JPs300 said:


> The "best" is a big debate, as I'm sure you've probably seen the various threads about the CVTech, the QSC, and the STM clutches.
> 
> Personally, I see no point in the STM primary unless you're building a race-only bike and want every last ounce of tuneability/power out of the clutching. - Their roller secondary is nice though.
> 
> My bud has the CVTech on his XMR along with the machined stock secondary and is very pleased with it. - His ability to take-off with & turn the tires is night/day over the stock primary, especially w/o having it stalled up much or giving up any trail-ability/cruising RPM.
> 
> I'm personally planning to go with the QSC, but soley because I'm tired of Airdam's turn-around time being 2x or more than what he quotes & him being considerably harder to get ahold of than Adam @ QSC.


My stock clutching pulls the 29.5 law 2s good until I pull someone out I have to be gentle with the throttle to keep from slipping the belt. The only thing I really don't like is how touchy it is taking off easy from a stop it's like you ease into the throttle and when it gets to the right rpms it jumps pretty hard I have almost flipped over a couple of times due to this on steep inclines.


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## JPs300

swampthing said:


> Not arguing about stock weights, just sharing what my tech told me.
> 
> I would also recommend a full primary replacement (QSC) as opposed to a kit, but the vast majority are apprehensive of spending anything more on their $10,000 plus investment and I'm sure you know that almost all of them will buy a kit first simply due to price.
> 
> I also recommend a Dalton Yellow/Black secondary spring and a 650 helix as opposed to a STM roller secondary or ///Airdam secondary machining, again simply due to cost.


 
I agree on the cost of the primary, thus why I'm just working with the helix & a couple springs for now. - I can justify $100 or less on dialing the stock clutching in to "get me by", but $300+ for a good clutch kit just doesn't make sense to me with the pit falls of the stock primary. 

I also agree on the Dalton Y/B spring if you're going to run a 2ndary spring, might be a tad aggressive for mixed use riding if combined with the 650 helix though. 

As for the secondary maching, there's no purpose in it unless you go to an aftermarket primary anyway. - The machining is solely to allow it to close up further, thus pulling the belt up higher in the secondary & fully down onto the smaller one-way of the aftermarket primaries, thus giving a total reduction of around 20-25%. - At $100 for the machining, its definitely a worth-while mod *IF* you put an aftermarket primary on.


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