# Hard steering



## kdgreen135 (Feb 10, 2017)

Hi all 2010 brute 650 solid axle
Very hard to turn gotta use that brute force to turn the bars. I've jacked up the rear end to make sure 4x4 wasn't stuck locked. I jacked the front end up to spin the front tires to make sure the diff lock wasn't stuck. All is good there. Tie rods seem fine. Has 28x11x14 swamplite.
What else do I check


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

The rack may be the issue with those tires but not all the time. To test drop the tie rods and try turning it. It may just be an upper stem bushing. However most of the time its one or more binding outer CV joints or the lower strut assembly. You can test those with the tie rods off. I do have to tell you that I once had 26x11s on the front of mine and it was so hard to steer, it wasted my shoulders, both stem bearings, tie rod ends and upper a-arm bushings. 28x11s are going to be a pure ***** on you and your parts too.


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## kdgreen135 (Feb 10, 2017)

Not sure why I didn't try it before but I jacked the front end up and tried steering and its still hell to move. Does the stem have bearings in it that would be bad?


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

IIRC There was a bushing swap that people were doing a while back, also, try spacers under the castle nuts on the tie-rods at the steering stem.


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## kdgreen135 (Feb 10, 2017)

Why washers under the tie rods? What does it help? Also does anyone have a part number for the bearings for the steering stem. Been looking for hours and can't find anything. Thanks for the suggestions


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## kdgreen135 (Feb 10, 2017)

Ok pulled the tie rods and the bars move totally free. So does that mean the angle of the CV shafts is what's binding me up?


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## kdgreen135 (Feb 10, 2017)

The tires move very easily by hand as well with the tie rods off and tires on ground


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

So...let me get this straight...all together jacked off the ground it steers hard...but drop the tie rods and the bars move easy and the wheels rotate easy. Is that right? If son then either the rod ends are seized...or there is something with the rack that binds it under any load. See if you can rotate the shafts in their sockets on the rod ends.


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## kdgreen135 (Feb 10, 2017)

The tie rod ends that go into the steering stem I can grab it and spin it with ease with my fingers. But your correct if its all assembled its hard to turn.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Well, I just leaned something. I had always assumed all SRAs had rack and pinion steering with McPherson struts but they do not have rack and pinion steering- they have the same setup as the all the pre-12 IRS in steering stems. So, look to either the lower bearing and/or the upper bushing for your troubles. Also check all the tierod ends. The ones off the stem rotate farther and do get loose faster then the outers ones. That means they will dry out faster too. The lower bearing is what I am betting on as it happened to mine. Its just a heim and when it goes, the bearing pushed hard against the outer race and feels seized when it doesn't with no load. I do have a How To here and on BC on making it greasable but if its already warn enough to seize under load, it's too late. Even greased my 11" wide tires took my second one out..by the way.


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## kdgreen135 (Feb 10, 2017)

I was gonna swap the bearing out anyway and i already have your write up on greasing it book marked lol.
Would you happen to know the bearing part number? I can't find it online and the local powersports place can't even find it. Also the tires are 9" in front sorry I didn't say that before. I was going to drain front diff oil and try 10w30 think that would be ok? And the thing about adding washers to the tie rods what does that help?


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

kdgreen135 said:


> I was gonna swap the bearing out anyway and i already have your write up on greasing it book marked lol.
> Would you happen to know the bearing part number? I can't find it online and the local powersports place can't even find it. Also the tires are 9" in front sorry I didn't say that before. I was going to drain front diff oil and try 10w30 think that would be ok? And the thing about adding washers to the tie rods what does that help?


I don't know if the washer trick would help in your situation so first take care of the stem bearing and bushing. Go to Cheapcycleparts.com and look-up your machine. The parts will be under "Frame". OMI makes a greasable upper bushing I have had and enjoyed for years. It says for Yamaha but it also fits Kawasaki.


Keyser's Port City Racing is a premier parts supplier for dirt and asphalt racing


First look up the parts numbers for yours and the 750. If they are the same, then the OMI bushing will work.


And here's a link to CheapcycleParts.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

the reason for the washers was to offset for the angle of the tie rod created by a lift kit. Some found that after a lift their steering would bind, add some washer and it was like stock again.


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