# Hard to steer! or turn when 4x4 on or even 2wd



## guimond47 (Oct 22, 2009)

Hey guys took the ol' brute out today. i found it really hard to steer the steering left to right... even a bit stiff in 2wd . in 4wd its stiffff like diff lock is on ... but it aint... 


Whats up with that? my joints in my finguers hurt from forcing all the time.... it must really be know as a brute FORCE:bigok:


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Probably gonna need a new stem bushing.... 

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4578


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## hp488 (Sep 23, 2009)

If it gets harder in 4wd you might want to look at your outer cv's


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Yep, check the upper and the lower stem bushing and bearing. Mine got hard to turn when either dryed out. I also have a how-to on making the lower greasable. Its a great mod.


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## 88rxn/a (Mar 2, 2009)

mine is kind of hard also. that MOD really make a difference for the top one? im nervous about doing all that work for the bottom one if the results aren't worth it?


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

If feels like it did when you used diffloc in the past then maybe your spider gears are sezed to the pin inside your front diff. Get figured out befor the diff goes booom.


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## MeanGreenMan (May 24, 2010)

brutemike said:


> If feels like it did when you used diffloc in the past then maybe your spider gears are sezed to the pin inside your front diff. Get figured out befor the diff goes booom.


+1.
That's exactly what I was gonna say. 
Once the things break inside the broken metal debris will get in between gears and they will crack the gear case. Gets real expensive real fast.
Water getting inside the case, wrong oil (like using gear oil instead of engine oil) or simply lack of oil will cause the seizure.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

brutemike said:


> If feels like it did when you used diffloc in the past then maybe your spider gears are sezed to the pin inside your front diff. Get figured out befor the diff goes booom.


I agree. If its the differencial that is having the problem, it can get expensive. Check it out first along with tierod ends and ball joints and CV joints. 

As far as which one of the two bushing/bearing will yeld the best results, it realy doesn't matter because if its binding, no matter which one, it has to be dealt with. When my upper started to dry and bind, I could shoot some WD or PB on it and work it in. It would be good for a while. The OMI replacement was a great mod. But then when my lower started binding, it actualy started squeaking. That's when I pulled it, cleaned it up and made it greasable. That helped it last for another 2300 miles. Even getting regular shots of grease it finaly got loose so its 90 bucks for a new one for me.. but got a grease zerk before the install. It should now last for as long as I keep this Brute....and then some.


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## guimond47 (Oct 22, 2009)

perfect boyz just cant wait to get my hands on the new brute with EPS  thats gonna be a huge improvement for 2012 including their more powerful 750 v-twin :rockn::flames:


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## BernardB (Jan 30, 2011)

kawierider a mod.. congrats haha you deserve it with all the help you have givin me


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## brute for mud (Jul 15, 2010)

there is a test to see if the front dif is working proper


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## byrd (Jul 14, 2009)

BernardB said:


> kawierider a mod.. congrats haha you deserve it with all the help you have givin me


dang i just noticed that! congrats man!fftopic: sry lol


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

byrd said:


> dang i just noticed that! congrats man!fftopic: sry lol


Yeah ya hang around here too long and they put ya to work..lol 

Thanks guys.


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## Derag2 (Feb 27, 2011)

Jack up the front end and spin the tires if the tires spin the same direction its locked, if they spin opposite of each other your spiders are fine..... My locked up on me once but warranty covered it. Im gonna have to look into this steering bushing my brute is a little hard to turn and it squeaks some. I hate to say it but im betting its the spiders.


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