# adjusting valves



## lg07brute (Jul 20, 2009)

Tryin to adjust my valves; got the plastics off, battery and air box outta the way, ready to go. Only problem is that i cant get that plug out to see the timing marks?!? Broke my screwdriver already, startin to really annoy me. Any ideas? Also what is everbody settin them at? Manual says .20 exhaust and .10 intake. That the best?


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## hondarecoveryman (Feb 28, 2009)

you dont have to get to the timing marks to set the valves, adjust the exhaust while the intake is closed ,and vice-versa BTW I adjust mine by feel so I am no help on the valve lash setting measurment


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## drtyTshrt (May 27, 2009)

The manual says you need a filler cap driver LOL. All it is is a heavy duty screw driver bent 90 degrees.
You might want to reread your lash measurements they seems awlfull high I think you might be .008 exhaust and .004 intake. this is thousandth inches not MM.

I guess you were talking MM though. so disregard what I said.


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## lg07brute (Jul 20, 2009)

Well I dove in and got it done, mostly. The rear exhaust valves are still tickin pretty good and I've checked them 3 time and they are right in the middle of spec. Even used a screwdriver as an amplifier to make sure that's where my tick was comin from.(I'm still amazed that works as well as it does) Any ideas? Set them tighter? The intake valves were right on and the front exhaust was alittle loose but sounds great now. Any ideas would be great, I spent the whole afternoon tryin to figure it out and still nothin.


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## hondarecoveryman (Feb 28, 2009)

If you feel comfortable doing it , set them by feel . Lots of people cant do this so if you dont think you can do it, dont try it .Set them on the tight side of specs. and your prob. should go away


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## lg07brute (Jul 20, 2009)

I've always done the valves on my mud truck by feel but thats kinda different. I can probably manage it tho. Guess i'll give it a try tomorrow. I'm happy they are easy to get to anyways, the back ones all i needed to pull was the battery and tray, saved alot of time the second(and third, and forth, etc ) around.


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## Masher (Jan 16, 2009)

Here you go toward the bottom.

http://www.700v.com/cams.htm


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## lg07brute (Jul 20, 2009)

i found their how to on adjusting the valves and followed it. Minus gettin that dang inspection plug off, just used HRM's idea. I'm gonna try it again later, all in all it wasnt very hard, just time consuming. Hope the last set will decide to cooperate today.


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## lg07brute (Jul 20, 2009)

Well got the last set of exhaust valves set finally, she runs like a scalded dog compared to the before ride, only thing that has me curious is that they still have a slight tick. Not loud or anything but it is there, is that something i should be seriously worried about? It runs night and day different but just still makes me a bit nervous.


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## Masher (Jan 16, 2009)

A little slapping isn't a problem.


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

i adjusted mine today too. not a difficult job by any means.
my rear intakes were so out of adjustment you could fit a .25 between.( the spec is .10 to .15 mm). the exhausts were a tad out of spec.
the front exhausts were dead on and front intakes tad out. 
after adjustment my motor still sounds like ****. doesnt sound like crank at all, sounds more like moderately bad piston slap. i wondered if the cam chains were maybe stretched to hell but the tensioners were only halfway out. i reset them and reinstalled. still loud. wonder what i got going on..


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## lg07brute (Jul 20, 2009)

both sets of intakes were dead on and the front exhaust was in spec but a a hair tight. the rear exhaust was aweful tight, set in the lower half of spec and it got better. First time i've dove into the brute, alot less complicated than i thought.


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