# i need a solution



## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

ok i have an 09 750 that i just got back in feb of this year new from the dealership. so this is my problem, last month i burnt my stock belt up after a few to many 12oz curles (my falt) .. on the way back to our trucks while in limp mode my bike became very hard to turn either way, but only sometimes. so i just got it back together and might i say the 3gx belt is preforming great. but while ridding my steering still is doing the same thing, but at the same time if u try to turn and it does not respond all u have to do is turn the oppsite way and then u can turn back the way u want to go..but this is only sometimes.. and now when i use the 4x4 their is a poping or a clicking sound from the front end. their is nothing loose anywhere in the front end.. so can some friends here educuate me please....:thinking:


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

Hate to say it, but sounds like you may have something broken in the front diff....OR not quite as bad, possibly have a cv joint binding up.


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## hp488 (Sep 23, 2009)

filthyredneck said:


> Hate to say it, but sounds like you may have something broken in the front diff....OR not quite as bad, possibly have a cv joint binding up.



Have to agree with filthy them cv's make it hard to steer when they go out.


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

ok so it would possably be either of the inside joints?? would'nt think it would be the diff cause their is no poppinr or clicking while in 2x4..?? cause the front diff gears would turn without being in 4x4? wright.. and i would'nt think that a cv jointwoulb be going out this soon.. only like 200 miles on the bike..


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

29.5s, liquid courage, and a heavy thumb can mess up some stuff lol. You can use the process of ilimination on the cv's, but requires pulling the front axles. You could probably jack up the front of the bike spin the tires to figure out which side is clicking and then pull that axle and clamp the bar in a vise....rotate the cv joints around and you'll know right off which one it is because it will feel like it gets stuck in certain parts of the rotation. You can then remove that joint and boot and figure out what ya got goin on in there. 
you should also be able to hold the tire on one side and spin the other freely....if you cannot do this then theres something not right in the diff.

Hope this helps.


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

ok so i'll try to check it out tomorrow and let everyone know what i find out.. the cv sounds a hole lot better as i'm wipeing the sweat off my brow..:34: than the diff.. thanks for the education and maby someday i'll graduate from the brute force academy with a diploma..:deal: .. lol .. just sayin..


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## rmax (Nov 21, 2009)

look at the outer cv on the oppsite side of the way which it binds ,other words , if it binds turning left look at the right outer, if aright turn look left outer


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

Ok so jacked it up and spun the L front wheel and held the righ wheel and could here and see the inner R moving as it was clicking. So I then spun the wheels in opposite directions and then I felt it suddenly stop. It didn't do this on every rotation?? The axel still didn't feel loose when u pull on it, eventhough u can see it move by the diff. so would that just be the inner part of the axel causing the steering to not respond all the time or do u think it is more the diff.


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## brute for mud (Jul 15, 2010)

Is the inner cup moving with out the axle shaft that joint is bad


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## bigblackbrute (Jun 3, 2009)

had a similar problem wit my teryx and it was an outter cv join goin bad. sounds kinda like a cv joint. i would think if it was the diff it would be clacking all the time.


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

So I looked at the innards of the diff from what I could see all is good. Fluid still has a lil golden tint to it but is a lil low. So how do I fun out if my cv joint is bad.


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

So I put my cv in a vice and their is no binding when I rotate it in any direction. So I don't think it's the cv joint. Short of taking the diff apart is their any way to test the diff or some tell tell signs.


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

Ok. So my father inlaw who is a mechanic for like 20 years is thinking it is in the diff for sure. He is thinking something like the accuator or the diff lock control is catching and causing all this. ?? Anyone know how much these innards cost? I know for sure if it is the accuator I'm doing the manual conversion. If it's the diff lock how would I go about fixing that. Putting it back together for now so I can get the money to fix it plus I have to goback to work for the next 4 days. Please let me know of any suggestions as I will check the site for further info until I can get my brute force diploma. Thanks


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

muddaholic 09 said:


> Ok. So my father inlaw who is a mechanic for like 20 years is thinking it is in the diff for sure. He is thinking something like the accuator or the diff lock control is catching and causing all this. ?? Anyone know how much these innards cost? I know for sure if it is the accuator I'm doing the manual conversion. If it's the diff lock how would I go about fixing that. Putting it back together for now so I can get the money to fix it plus I have to goback to work for the next 4 days. Please let me know of any suggestions as I will check the site for further info until I can get my brute force diploma. Thanks


You can take the actuator off of the side of the diff and look at the square block on the end of the shaft and make sure that its all in tact, I've heard some things about them breaking and causing probs....although I don't think thats your prob nor do I think it could in any way affect the steering unless maybe its trying to engage while your riding but I think you'd notice it.(you'll see EXACTLY what I'm talking about if you pull it off)
The internals of that front diff are quite expensive....I bought 3 new gears for mine recently at about $75 each + shipping, and I had to do some shopping to find them for that, and it really just depends on what the actual problem is. As far as the diff lock - its nothing more than a clutch pack basically and works by twisting and compressing against a set of ball bearings on a slotted plate, only way it could be giving you probs is if maybe the cable is froze up and keeping it partially engaged, but even then it should really only give you trouble in 4wd I would think. You should be able to pull your diff lock lever and watch the little lever move back and forth on the top left hand side of the diff...only moves maybe 1/8-1/4" at most, doesn't take much. (<-if you were sitting on the bike its on the left top)

Double check your tie rod ends and also check that the rods themselves are not bent anywhere. Also check to make sure everything is tight, loose bolts can make it pain. Even check the a-arm bolts, one of my uppers got loose one time and it took a while to figure it out.


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

I have pulled the front lock in 2 wd and it does make it turn harder so could very well be that acctuater or the clutch pack is frozen up with rust somehow.


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## CTBruterider (Jul 23, 2010)

filthyredneck said:


> Double check your tie rod ends and also check that the rods themselves are not bent anywhere. Also check to make sure everything is tight, loose bolts can make it pain. Even check the a-arm bolts, one of my uppers got loose one time and it took a while to figure it out.


 :agreed:

I had one of my lower a-arms get loose and just about fall out and was causing the same problems. Also, just as filthy was sayin, check the little aluminum block on the end of the actuator. Even if it's not damaged or broken, the corners of the block can round out and cause all sorts of engagement problems...Check the diff lock cable at the diff. as well because small rocks and microscopic pieces of crap can get lodged behind it and "lock" your diff without realizing it. Hopefully it's not you diff. becuase that gets expensive quick. I grenaded the gears in mine last winter going nuts in the deep snow with the diff locked - stupid move. Cost me almost $600 in parts to rebuild it... Kawi wanted $2300 for a new one at:


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## DaveMK1 (Nov 8, 2009)

muddaholic 09 said:


> So I put my cv in a vice and their is no binding when I rotate it in any direction. So I don't think it's the cv joint. Short of taking the diff apart is their any way to test the diff or some tell tell signs.


Stupid question but did you check both axles or just that one?


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## speedman (Nov 3, 2010)

hate to thread jack but same thing happen to kinda, whe i was riding it was hard to steer a little, i never though it might be the cv making it hard. weird.


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## Wart Hog (Apr 19, 2011)

Not saying it is the problem, but I hit the ground pretty hard on mine while in 4x4 and broke one tooth off of three of the gears and it did the exact same thing you are describing.
You could do the normal checks for bad CV's and diff lock problems and it seemed alright. I pulled the diff and tore it down only to find the sheared teeth on the gears.

It's not as hard as you think to pull the diff. I was a bit leary at first, now I don't hesitate to pull it, tear it down to check everything and slap it back in.


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

Well I did only check one axel. Just haven't had time to check the other due to work. But as soon as I can I will check the other. I don't really think it will be the accuator though. Cause the last time I rode and used the 4x4 I was in reverse and had the diff lock pulled while trying to pull a popo and his drunk driver out of a pretty bad hole. That's when it all went bad. But if u pull the diff lock while ridding and try to turn, that's what it feels like sometimes. But I will check it ASAP. Thanks


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

so i got the diff out today.. and might i say it almost took longer to get the diff out than to take everything apart.. i did check the other axel and i think it might have a slight bit of grinding in it at full rotation.. but i dont think thats the problem.. my accuator looked good so thats not it either..tire rods were ok too.. so the only thing left to do is open the diff?? ill check back in once i get it open.. but as always any input is welcome..thanks guys.. :mimbrules:


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## whoolieshop (Mar 22, 2011)

For what it's worth 29.5's + diff lock + heavy thumb = breaking stuff. I know of several people who refer to that little lever as the diff breaker instead of diff lock!

Never ever use that lever when pulling someone out, in fact just leave it alone unless you're in a situation where the front tires stop pulling Such as when you're off camber and the front right is off the ground and spinning. Pulling the lever will force the front left to turn pulling you on out. Use the throttle with care and never hammer it with the diff locked. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rmax (Nov 21, 2009)

muddaholic 09 said:


> so i got the diff out today.. and might i say it almost took longer to get the diff out than to take everything apart.. i did check the other axel and i think it might have a slight bit of grinding in it at full rotation.. but i dont think thats the problem.. my accuator looked good so thats not it either..tire rods were ok too.. so the only thing left to do is open the diff?? ill check back in once i get it open.. but as always any input is welcome..thanks guys.. :mimbrules:


be sure an do the spider gear shaft mod before you put it all back together,


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## wcs61 (Jun 7, 2011)

muddaholic 09 said:


> so i got the diff out today.. and might i say it almost took longer to get the diff out than to take everything apart..


Let me guess...you turned it 180 degree's and came out the R/H side?


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

wcs61 u are right about that.. i thought for a while i was gona have to get on here to find how to get it out.. and no i dont have 500 for ur diff, so dont save it for me.. what is the spider mod that u are talking about.. if it cost a lot of money to fix it will just have to stay torn down till i can save the money up or when i get income tax money, which ever comes first.. but it really feels like the diff lock is enguaging on it own.. ??


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## rmax (Nov 21, 2009)

spider shaft mod , useing a dremel or simuliar cutting wheel, cut a grouve along the length off the shaft, this will alow better lubrication between the shaft an gear(i cut 2 grouves 180 deg apart)this will help with the gear to shaft gualding causeing the front diff to gernade


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

X2 on the spider shaft mod... I did mine using my vise to hold the shaft, made a straight line on it with a sharpie marker and a straight edge, then used a thin grinding wheel on my 4" angle grinder and put about a 1/8"x1/8" groove all the way across the length of it and then cleaned it with emery cloth to make sure it was smooth and de-burred. Definitely will allow some oil to flow.

Fueling The Addiction Using Tapatalk


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

ok thanks guys.. ill be sure and do this when i get it apart..


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

ok so here it is :aargh4:.. im pretty sure im gona have to rob a bank..


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## Cobb_05 (Oct 3, 2011)

Just looked on bike bandit and those gears are 95 bucks a piece!!:aargh4: God i hope this mine isnt as bad but i know it will be.


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

muddaholic 09 said:


> ok so here it is :aargh4:.. im pretty sure im gona have to rob a bank..


 I had 3 of those 4 gears bad in mine when I rebuilt it not too long ago...both the little ones and one of the big ones. I got the 2 little ones for around $160 shipped. I lucked out on the big one and got it for free from one of my buddies that runs a shop here... he said he owed me a favor lol. The housing is a different story though...don't know if you can do anything about that or if you'll have to replace it. Mine just had the stripped gears and some bad seals/bearings. My total cost for the rebuild for the 3 gears + all new seals and bearings was around $300. I got lucky


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

Cobb_05 said:


> Just looked on bike bandit and those gears are 95 bucks a piece!!:aargh4: God i hope this mine isnt as bad but i know it will be.


PM sent...hope it helps ya out. And I replied to the thread you started on the subject as well.


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

:goodnews: So ive got great news..* its all covered by my warranty*.. after a long battel with my stealer/dealer wich told me i only had a 6 month warranty and i took it all apart myself did i come to find out that i had a 1 year warranty.. in the wake of putting it back together i found that my accuator was cracked also.. so in the end they spent about 2600$ that i didnt have.. but i sure was worried cause the wife said if we had to pay for it i wouldnt get to go to mud nats this year or any other ride due to the fact that i would be working at my 2nd job which i dont have..... but anyways its all over and done with and real soon ill be *letting her eat!!!!!!*


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## muddaholic 09 (Apr 12, 2011)

so here is a BIG THANK YOU to everyone that helped and provided some info this really is the best site/groupe of friends that i have ever known without really knowing....


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