# Cooling fan running when the bike is off and now not coming on...



## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

I just purchased a 2006 Brute 750 on Friday. I ran into an issue Saturday after a 10 minute ride where the radiator fan was running after I turned it off and took the key out. It ran for 10 minutes after I shut it off and advice from the seller was to tap the radiator. I tapped it once with a screwdriver and it immediately turned off. The suggestion was to apply dilectric grease to the connection. I found some electrical spray at Home depot that supposedly dries it out, lubricates, and resists moisture. I applied this yesterday. I took the bike out on a ride again today and could never get the fan to come on. I let it idle in my driveway for a while and noticed the temperature warning light came on. What could be the issue? I checked the electrical connection and it was tight but, still a bit "wet" from the spray I put on it yesterday.

Did I do any damage by running it hot enough for that warning light? No coolant spewed from the radiator. I shut it off within 5 seconds of that light appearing.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Todd


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## h20dies (May 15, 2012)

Mine always turned on after i turned it off but NEVER ran for 10 minutes only a minute tops is your rad relocated? And you definitely have a short or something stopping the connection to the thermostat i would check all that.


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## newbie (Nov 18, 2011)

The temp sensor may be bad


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

Radiator is in the factory location. On another board, someone mentioned the fan switch. Where is the temp sensor or is that the same as the fan switch?

Thanks,
Todd


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

newbie said:


> The temp sensor may be bad


 
X2. Told ya.. Its in the radiator just under the fill cap.


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

Alright so fan switch and temperature sensor are one in the same?

If so, I already ordered a fan switch and hopefully that will get me up and running...

Thanks for the help guys.

Todd


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

Let the mods begin.....


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

dman66 said:


> Let the mods begin.....


This is JLOWERY's old Brute so it is fully built. I just need to work out this cooling issue and I shoudl be good to go.

**I checked the cooling fan breaker and it appeared as if it was not popped. My only option is to replace the fan switch.

Does anyone know when I unscrew it from the radiator, will coolant go everywhere? I'll do it with the motor completely cold but, just curious what to expect...

Thanks,
Todd


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

Just a little will come out. Wile your there if you mud ride just move the rad now save you a lot of headaches.

Sent from my C771


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

To be sure the issue is the fan switch/sensor, I took the 2 wires off it and jumped them and the fans didn't turn at all. Any ideas regarding what to check now? Could the breaker be bad? I checked it and couldn't get the reset to move so I'm assuming it is in the on position. What else is inline between the battery and the fans? I thought it went to the breaker, to the switch/sensor, and then to the fans. What am I missing?

Thanks,
Todd


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## bigblackbrute (Jun 3, 2009)

Ther is also a fan relay. Its located under the seat at the very rear of the electrical tray. Its black and square and.i believe ther is only 2 on the carbed brutes. Check your relay.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

bigblackbrute said:


> Ther is also a fan relay. Its located under the seat at the very rear of the electrical tray. Its black and square and.i believe ther is only 2 on the carbed brutes. Check your relay.
> 
> Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2


Are you talking about the fan breaker under the seat? It is seperate from the fuse box/section.

Thanks,
Todd


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

I found the below electrical/fan diagram on this site. Now that I've bridged the wires on the fan switch/sensor and the fan didnt' come on, I'm thinking the issue might be with the breaker under the seat. Visually, it looks fine but, I see nothing else in between the battery and the fan motor that I haven't already checked. Is there a way to bypass the breaker to test it? Could I bridge the fan sensor/switch wires and the breaker wires? I figured if I did that and the fan turned on, I know the issue is the breaker.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

You may have put too much spray on the connection.... TOO much can inhibit electrical flow. Dielectric grease is not a conductor, just a moisture repellent. So too much can block electrical flow.


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## Saintsation (Mar 2, 2011)

YOU need a water temp gauge don't ever rely on the idiot light to come on and a switch for the fan it is a must on these bikes also check you coolant make sure yu have plenty of coolant if not it can't tell the fan to cut on due to low coolant


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

Polaris425 said:


> You may have put too much spray on the connection.... TOO much can inhibit electrical flow. Dielectric grease is not a conductor, just a moisture repellent. So too much can block electrical flow.


I left the connector unplugged last night facing down to try and get any extra residue out of both sides of the connection. I used q-tips to try to get it as well.

I'm at my wits end with this bike...

I'll add a temp gauge and manual switch but, want to atleast get the fan working first.

Todd


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## No_Substitue_For_A_Brute (May 4, 2011)

Very few components for the fan system for carb bike. fuse, breaker, switch, and fan itself is it. 


Your fuse is good since the bike cranks and runs (main 30amp fuse feeds the fan also).
Most everyone just does away with the breaker and opts for an inline fuse. http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/67-engine-exhaust/17037-how-replace-fan-breaker-fuse.html
You bypassed the switch so that is out
Fan is easy to test just jumper the two fan wires directly to a battery and see if it works.
If all that tests ok it would have to be a ground issue. I would investigate possible bus connector issue since it is an 06.
http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/67-engine-exhaust/17037-how-replace-fan-breaker-fuse.html


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

^ Based on those, and his mention that he jumped the fan and it didnt come on, I would imagine the fan has just give out....

Cheap replacements can be found at the auto parts store... we have a thread for it somewhere.


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

I jumped the fan switch and the fan breaker and the fan never turned on. The bike starts fine and everything but the fan works so I think I'm good with the 30a main fuse. I guess I'll run wires from the battery directly to the 2 wires coming off the fan to see if the fan is burned up.

Once I get this resolved, I'll definitely replace the breaker with an inline fuse.

Thanks,
Todd


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

The fan is fine. I also confirmed 12.8v at the fan switch. I jumped the switch and breaker and still the fan won't turn on. I'm thinking the electrical connection about 6" from the fan might be bad. The previous owner put grease in it 18 months ago and it worked fine until I got it. I thnk the only option if this is the issue would be to cut the connector and splice the wires together. I cleaned the connection again with brake cleaner to get off any residue from the grease I added this weekend when the motor was stuck on... I can confirm 12.8v at this electrical connector as well. I"m thinking the connector is bad and that I will cut it out and splice the wires directly. I can find 12.8v within 6" of the fan and this is the only junction.

Am I missing anything else that could be the issue?


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## browland (Apr 4, 2009)

I'm pretty sure the 12v lead from the fuse box goes to the rear bus connector , then to the breaker then forward to the switch in the rad- then to the fan . Really it takes no time to look at the buss connector- cut the tape and see if it's green or black or even
Like mine having half the plastic connector gone . 


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## Todd Edge (Jun 2, 2012)

browland said:


> I'm pretty sure the 12v lead from the fuse box goes to the rear bus connector , then to the breaker then forward to the switch in the rad- then to the fan . Really it takes no time to look at the buss connector- cut the tape and see if it's green or black or even
> Like mine having half the plastic connector gone .
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you visually tell if the bus connector is the issue? Is there any way to test it without cutting all the wires and re-connecting them?

What is odd is I jumped everything and can pull 12.8v at the connector just 6" from the fan yet it does not come on. I replaced the connector and straight wired it and still no fan. If I connect the fan directly to the battery, it works just fine. It is as if once the fan starts to pull the power, something shuts off power before it ever begins. I also noticed that the control screen shows part of the fuel gauge lit up with the 4-wheeler off. Not the full gauge with the fuel level dots but, the outline of the fuel tank. This 4-wheeler is new to me and maybe I never noticed this. Is this yet another electrical issue that could be part of the fan issue and ultimately related to a bus connector?? I can post a picture of the control screen if anyone needs to see what is illuminated.

I've more or less pushed this to the back of the garage and working on other toys for a while until I have the patience to deal with electrical gremlins. I'm certainly willing to give anything a try before I drag it over to the dealership...

Thanks,
todd


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## browland (Apr 4, 2009)

Todd Edge said:


> Can you visually tell if the bus connector is the issue? Is there any way to test it without cutting all the wires and re-connecting them?
> 
> What is odd is I jumped everything and can pull 12.8v at the connector just 6" from the fan yet it does not come on. I replaced the connector and straight wired it and still no fan. If I connect the fan directly to the battery, it works just fine. It is as if once the fan starts to pull the power, something shuts off power before it ever begins. I also noticed that the control screen shows part of the fuel gauge lit up with the 4-wheeler off. Not the full gauge with the fuel level dots but, the outline of the fuel tank. This 4-wheeler is new to me and maybe I never noticed this. Is this yet another electrical issue that could be part of the fan issue and ultimately related to a bus connector?? I can post a picture of the control screen if anyone needs to see what is illuminated.
> 
> ...


Hey you are in collierville right? I'm not far from you off hwy 64 . Bring it over I'll fix it for you . I'm off fri sat sun and you can go ride with us afterwards. I have gone thru this on both my bikes. Hit me up - 3373023193 Brian 


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## Spivey13 (Aug 13, 2012)

what did u guys discover that it was bc im at the exact same point were he left off...


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## Spivey13 (Aug 13, 2012)

i pulled the wires off the rad sensor jumpered them together it seemed to come on for a sec then quit i checked the power n it gets power to the fan but wont come on. if i straight wire the fan to the battery it runs fine tho... im stumped as well


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## browland (Apr 4, 2009)

Spivey13 said:


> i pulled the wires off the rad sensor jumpered them together it seemed to come on for a sec then quit i checked the power n it gets power to the fan but wont come on. if i straight wire the fan to the battery it runs fine tho... im stumped as well


buss connector corrosion ..


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## rmax (Nov 21, 2009)

my money would be on the buss connector as well, its a bunch of grounds all hooked in that peace of plastis, age an corrossion cause the grounds to heat up causeing to much resistance , mine was almost to the point of flameing when i replaced it


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## Spivey13 (Aug 13, 2012)

ok so where is this buss connector? what does it look like? thanks for the help as well!


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## browland (Apr 4, 2009)

Spivey13 said:


> ok so where is this buss connector? what does it look like? thanks for the help as well!


Gonna be two of them to check. Both on the right side frame
Rail wrapped in electrical tape against the harness. You should be able to pin point the location by a bulge in the tape . Cut that **** off and look for a connector with some brown and white wires on the rear and the front should be black with yellow stripes in another connector. Signs of failure would be the conn is melted, broken, or green corrosion around the wires where they terminate. Front will be somewhere right across from the shifter bracket and the rear will be about 18 inches or so rearward from that 


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## jctgumby (Apr 23, 2009)

Here is the Link to the BUSS Connector Fix...Have fun


http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/29-how-tos/2013-how-05-06-bus-connector-fix-pics.html


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## Spivey13 (Aug 13, 2012)

thanks for the help i got it all fixed this afternoon! was pretty simple but i never woulda figured it out without u guys help so thanks!


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## browland (Apr 4, 2009)

Spivey13 said:


> thanks for the help i got it all fixed this afternoon! was pretty simple but i never woulda figured it out without u guys help so thanks!


congrats, always plenty of info on here to get you riding again.


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