# Sunk??



## mn250r (Sep 23, 2009)

Got into a water hole a little to deep. I winched my self out after i shut it off but the muffler was under the water. The water never got into the airbox or nothing. Once i got to shore it started right up, and ran perfect all day. I checked the oil in the case and it looked fine. I knew not to try to start it if the muffler was under the water. Is there anything i should look for or should it be ok?





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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I Actually did the same thing not to long ago..






Died because my idle was so low when i let off to shift it quit. BUT no water got in my oil or engine at all, even after it died and started floating... exhaust kept all the water out, some kinda miracle

You could prevent that with snorkels!


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## mn250r (Sep 23, 2009)

Ya, sounds like same thing with me.
If water did get in the engine, would it be all milky looking on the dip stick?
Because the oil on my dipstick looks like new,
Does it usually only get in the engine when your airbox fills up with water, and thats why people ad snorkels?


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

yeah brings intake for airbox way up. You may want to replace your gas though because your gas tank vent is under..along with coolant overflow bottle. And yeah any water in there should milk it almost instantly. Your also going to want to clean air filter and bow and re oil filter it water was in airbox. And also hope you didn't get water in your injectors, depending on how long you ran it after you sunk it.


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## BAMA MUDIGGER (Jun 27, 2011)

most of the time it is from the air box filling up and water getting into the crank case vent witch is a straight shot to the bottom end. I dont know if it would help but i was at autozone the other day looking around.thinking about thing i could use for my wheeler and i wonder how adding a fuel filter to the crank case vent would work looks like even if water did get in it should'nt be much and the filter should catch the sand and dirt before it gets to the engine.i dont know if anyone has tried it but it just might help in case you get a little to deep


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

people do that, and run them up to the pod.


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## BAMA MUDIGGER (Jun 27, 2011)

Oh ok I knew people put the little air filters on there but I never seen a fuel filter in there


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## J2! (May 8, 2010)

It is possible to get water in the motor through the exhaust. If it died when the exhaust valves were open it could get in that way. Mine did, and I had to rebuild. If your oil looks good you are probably ok. Next time that happens, drag it out of the water and stand the front up to drain all the water you can out of the exhaust before you try to crank it.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

J2! said:


> It is possible to get water in the motor through the exhaust. If it died when the exhaust valves were open it could get in that way. Mine did, and I had to rebuild. If your oil looks good you are probably ok. Next time that happens, drag it out of the water and stand the front up to drain all the water you can out of the exhaust before you try to crank it.


X2...


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## mn250r (Sep 23, 2009)

So if i pull my dipstick after letting it run a few mins and the oil looks like new, it should be fine? Or could water be in there still even though my airbox and injectors never got wet.

thanks


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## 2010Bruterider (Jun 20, 2010)

Yes. If you run it, then shut it off to check the oil, if it's clean, then you dodged a bullet. If you ride water like that often, snorkles are cheap insurance.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

I would change the oil & filter just to be safe though...


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## mn250r (Sep 23, 2009)

Well i drained the oil tonight after getting home from work and it looked like new.
I didnt see any sign of water pooling on the oil, and it was not milky looking.:rockn:
Im still gonna change it anyway with a new filter even though its amsoil. That way i can be sure its fresh and new. I wonder if i should check the front and rear diffs also????? Or is that usually sealed well enough


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## J2! (May 8, 2010)

Yep check the diffs for sure. They get water in them ALL the time. Alot of guys change their diff fluids after every ride if they were water riding. Glad your motor is ok. Like stated above, snorkles are CHEAP insurance !!


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

^ Yes they are! And you can find that here:

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/view.php?pg=brutesnorkel


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## LM83 (Jul 23, 2010)

You got lucky. You dodged a huge bullet. Front and rear diff fluids should be checked after every ride. Front diff and motor isn't cheap, I know from experience. I just dropped $5,000 on mine.


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## mn250r (Sep 23, 2009)

i will check the diffs today, man changing the diff oil after riding in water would get expensive with amsoil if you changed it everytime lol.


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

you should buy some crank case vent hose (about six feet or so) and put some loops in it, this also makes it where you dont have to run it up to your pod, which can cause accidents.... then it will never make it into the bottom end unless it runs up the pipe and into the cylinders and seeps past the piston rings.


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## drtj (May 3, 2009)

For the front diff just run the cheapest oil u can find for it.


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

80w-90 or better. thats what i run in my diffs. coastal is cheap! but i dont have a problem milking mine that bad either. i just change mine anyway.


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

I was under othe impression that deviating from the recommended oil and viscosity for the front diff was a bad idea?


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

what does Kawi say you should run in the front diffs?


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

Just specifies a 10W-40 weight, and it seems I read somewhere not to deviate or run a synthetic in the front diff?


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

10w-40 in a diff? thats some thin stuff. I just run costal or lucas gear oil in mine. Those kawi front diffs arent too much different from the AC diffs from what i remember... i wonder why they say to use such a thin oil?


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

Not really sure..
I'd like more input though.. Mine milks up really fast. I just hope it's resilient.


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

if Kawi would fix their axle seals and pinion seals it would be so much better designed diffs! try taking your axles out and using lucas red and tacky in the empty space behind the seals and it should keep water out better!


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

Thanks, I may try that..
I just replaced both fronts. Wish I'd known then


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

tell ya a secret to take the axle off without takin the castle nut and all that off... unbolt the tierod then take the a arms off and pull the whole assembly (with the tire off of course) if you arent having to work on the axle its waaaay faster.


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

Little different beast for me, I have the SRA which has the front struts.


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

ah... wasnt payin attention.. thats right.


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

Still not terrible to yank the axles out.. Thanks for your advice


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

no problem. it keeps the diff oil in and the dirt/water out. doesnt have to be red and tacky but just a good marine grade grease.


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## J2! (May 8, 2010)

greenkitty7 said:


> 80w-90 or better. thats what i run in my diffs. coastal is cheap! but i dont have a problem milking mine that bad either. i just change mine anyway.


Hey greenkitty, we use 90w in our diffs, the brutes do run 10-40 in theirs. I always wondered why, I guess the kitties have bigger gears or something to reqire the heavy oil.. I don't have any problems with mine milking either, even when water riding. I guess the kitty diffs are built a little better than the brutes or maybe better seals..


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## J2! (May 8, 2010)

greenkitty7 said:


> tell ya a secret to take the axle off without takin the castle nut and all that off... unbolt the tierod then take the a arms off and pull the whole assembly (with the tire off of course) if you arent having to work on the axle its waaaay faster.


That's exactly how I do mine, it's alot faster and you have something to hold on to when your snatching on it. Sometimes they fall right out but SOMETIMES they're a b**** to get out !!!!:aargh4:LOL


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

I put 20w-50 synthetic in my front, same I put in the engine


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

J2! said:


> That's exactly how I do mine, it's alot faster and you have something to hold on to when your snatching on it. Sometimes they fall right out but SOMETIMES they're a b**** to get out !!!!:aargh4:LOL


yea i was trying to pull a rear like that and snatched the bar right out of the cup!


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## Nain (Mar 17, 2010)

Just wheelied having way to much fun and completely forgot I was on a sandbar and there was a 10+ foot drop off, wheelied past afew friends followed by an oh **** and a short swim that seemed more like 10 minutes.

Oil is milkified, snorks were actually full of sand from being dredged back to shore on the floor of the lake. Got it home, followed the steps on this site to bring it back to life and sure enough after some cranking it's running again.

terrible feeling when your trying to swim hanging onto your brute sinking and it feels like it just keeps slipping away, I sure wasn't letting go!

Anyways, THANKS MIMB THIS FORUM SAVED MY BRUTE! :rockn:


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

Congrats on the recovery!!


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## brute for mud (Jul 15, 2010)

80w90 in the front diff not good just my opinion


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## J2! (May 8, 2010)

brute for mud said:


> 80w90 in the front diff not good just my opinion


 90w gear oil is what Artic Cat says to put in ours. Seems to me that the 10w40 yall run is really to thin for a diff, after all, vehicles all use 90w in the rear ends.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

J2! said:


> 90w gear oil is what Artic Cat says to put in ours. Seems to me that the 10w40 yall run is really to thin for a diff, after all, vehicles all use 90w in the rear ends.


Yeah but they don't have wet brakes and clutch-pac diff locks either. What Kawie uses had never been an issue with the gears or bearings...its that G.D. water that keeps getting in...and a few weak parts..

Besides...its takes a lot more HPs to turn a gearbox full of 90w over 10w...lol


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

Lol so you sayin the kittys got mo powa? Lol


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## brute for mud (Jul 15, 2010)

they might if their worked or bigger lol


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

i was just kiddin anyways... lol i love a brute but got too much of a drinkin habit at rides and power+water+alcohol=spending a lot of money


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## LM83 (Jul 23, 2010)

greenkitty7 said:


> i was just kiddin anyways... lol i love a brute but got too much of a drinkin habit at rides and power+water+alcohol=spending a lot of money


Lol that's the problem I have! These $4,000 motors are getting hard to pay for!


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## greenkitty7 (Jan 26, 2011)

yea is 86 bucks if i have to rebuild mine! haha replacing rings FTW. and a full rebuild is only like 900 bucks.


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