# knock knock



## bigoman24 (May 20, 2009)

Ok, my brute just started a knocking noise I guess from the top end. Just wanted to know if there were some common problems that the brutes have(rod bearing etc.)Not really sure what is wrong with it just wanted some input from someone that might be more familiar. It has never been drowned out or flipped or given pure hell, so any info appreciated:aargh4:


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

Rod bearings on 750 seems common enough. Could be the cam chains, tensioners or even the cam. 
How many miles? Can you tell if the noise is coming from the top front or rear.
You can try to swap the tensioners out(front to back) to rid the problem. Sometimes they don't work right and stick. we need more info. If you don't change out the oil you could have very well stretched the chains....


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## bigoman24 (May 20, 2009)

Sounds just like the video on page 6 talking about the glorious rod knock


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## countryboy61283 (Mar 20, 2010)

Sounds like crank bearing, not cheap my friend, but could use more info


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## islandlife (Jul 4, 2010)

if it is loudest at idle and goes away when throttle is aplied, it could be the primary clutch


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## xtreme02gt (Dec 14, 2010)

Mine sounds like it is coming from behind the plastic cover where the belt and clutches are. cause if you walk over to the other side where you can see the motor, cant really here anything, also i can put my hands on the heads and cant feel it knocking, also if you give it gas it goes away.

So mine could be the primary clutch? So what is the fix for this?


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## bigoman24 (May 20, 2009)

I just cranked it up earlier and it sounds like its coming from the clutch area. It is loudest when in neutral and at idle. If its a problem with the clutch what is the fix for it?


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## islandlife (Jul 4, 2010)

the fix is to take it out and inspect it. probably needs new bushings and thicker shoes. i didn't do the shoes when i had mine apart, i wish i did.


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## kwh650 (Oct 15, 2010)

bigoman24 said:


> Ok, my brute just started a knocking noise I guess from the top end. Just wanted to know if there were some common problems that the brutes have(rod bearing etc.)Not really sure what is wrong with it just wanted some input from someone that might be more familiar. It has never been drowned out or flipped or given pure hell, so any info appreciated:aargh4:


start bike let warm up little then get u a cut off broom handle or1/2 drive ext will work and stick one end to motor and other to ear you will hear it when you find it just keep putting it diff places on motor some how it sends sound through the rod if it knocking youll hear it stick to rocker cover ,heads ,case ect.


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## xtreme02gt (Dec 14, 2010)

islandlife said:


> the fix is to take it out and inspect it. probably needs new bushings and thicker shoes. i didn't do the shoes when i had mine apart, i wish i did.


So is there a how to on this? With pictures


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## Brute650i (Dec 17, 2008)

How load is the knocking at idle? If its the clutch it will completely go away. If its clutch you can check the weights for being egg shaped where the pin goes through if they are fine its probably best to get vforcejohn to rebuild it and machine it also


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## islandlife (Jul 4, 2010)

the clutch knocking is loudest at idle in my experience. mine goes away completely after about 2500 rpm(est.)


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## xtreme02gt (Dec 14, 2010)

Brute650i said:


> How load is the knocking at idle? If its the clutch it will completely go away. If its clutch you can check the weights for being egg shaped where the pin goes through if they are fine its probably best to get vforcejohn to rebuild it and machine it also


 
It goes completely away around 1800 - 2000rpm. Is this something i can do myself? on a scale of 1 - 10 it would be? Or is it better to take to the dealer and have the replace the parts?

This is my first Brute, and I havent had it very long. so I really dont know anything about these bikes.


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## islandlife (Jul 4, 2010)

you'll need some special tools, which can be bought from kawie for way too much money (puller tool from epi) or they can be built as well. there is a thread regarding that in the how-to section. or the dealer can do it, or you can send it away to few people to get rebuilt and modified for some good performance gains ( vforcejohn on kawieriders.com)


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## xtreme02gt (Dec 14, 2010)

Can you buy a built one from somewhere? And just have the dealer install it? By the way thanks for all the info.

Also is there any good sites I can buy all kinds of parts for this bike?


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## Brute650i (Dec 17, 2008)

easier and cheaper to send it off to vfj. the turn around time is about 4 days, order epi clutch puller ($35) and you can remove and install it


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## xtreme02gt (Dec 14, 2010)

How much dose he charge to rebuild it and shipping and everything? Maybe it just needs a new belt? And where can I get a better belt than just a stock belt?


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## Brute650i (Dec 17, 2008)

I'm not sure his prices changed a while back. Stock belt is the best in my opinion and only way to go for the price. 

Why do you think it may be belt? Has it been slipped or smoked?

Take the cover off and inspect everything good to narrow down problem


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## xtreme02gt (Dec 14, 2010)

I really dont know. I bought it used and I have never changed it. Also what will it hurt if I drive it with knocking? The bike runs really good but the fuel pump i think is fixing to take a dump on me tho. I can only go about 3/4 throttle, but if I cycle the key then it will run great for a few min, and then back to 3/4 throttle or about 35mph tops


And if I take the cover off and look, I won't really know what I am looking for, unless it is just that bad. You know what I mean. I have always been a sport quad guy, and yamaha at that. So kinda lost on all this


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## Brute650i (Dec 17, 2008)

Clutch/belt knock nothin except it will get worse and need replaced

Engine knock which I don't think that's it cause you said it goes away after 2000rpm could sling rod through case and lock up


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## WOLVERINE (Jan 1, 2010)

I've got the same knock as you describe and it's only there when it's cold. Goes away when it's warm/ or rpm. I have to change out the shims on my secondary next week on both my 650i's so I'll swap the primary's and see if it follows the clutch to be sure. I'll let you know what happens!


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## xtreme02gt (Dec 14, 2010)

Thanks, maybe you could snap a few pic's


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

Here ya go. We have a lot of info on clutching in the Kawasaki How To section of our forum. This isn't specific to some of your questions but maybe it will answer some of them. 

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/showthread.php?t=369


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## xtreme02gt (Dec 14, 2010)

Out of both clutches which of them make the knocking sound?


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## gpinjason (Nov 10, 2009)

The primary is the one that makes noise... Its the wieghts slapping aroug in there and the sheaves sliding together... 


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


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## WOLVERINE (Jan 1, 2010)

gpinjason said:


> The primary is the one that makes noise... Its the wieghts slapping aroug in there and the sheaves sliding together...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk


I never did get around to it but mine is still there. 

So from what I am reading you guys are saying its the play from the cam arms on the pins as the bushings are wearing out creating too much twisting movement? So if that's the case then the cam bushings need to be changed (if they can be purchased seperate like my Arctic Cat snowmobile primary clutch) out as well as the pins that hold them in there. Is there any other bushings that need to be changed?
I will take a look this time home, I promise!


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## brute for mud (Jul 15, 2010)

i would guess primary clutch mine does it and i only have 1375 on it


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## WOLVERINE (Jan 1, 2010)

The 1st brute I bought came off the showroom floor with less then 1 km on it an it doesn't knock with 950kms now. The 2nd brute has the almost the same mileage and it does knock. It had over 30kms on it so I considered it a demo on the lot. Not sure if it made the difference but I will swap out primary's to see if the knock follows when I get home the end of April. I promise I will post back the results...


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## Tinker (Feb 4, 2009)

Sounds to me that you may be in limp mode. When the belts start to break up it hits a toggle switch inside the clutch cover and puts the bike in limp mode. Do a search for limp mode and see what you can find. This may explain what is happening. It is easy to change a belt. You will need a torque wrench that reachs 69lbs, an impact wrench and a metric socket set. You can find all the information you need here to do it yourself if you want to take it on and save some money. Good Luck


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## Tinker (Feb 4, 2009)

I forgot the most important tool you will need "EPI clutch puller" and I didn't see that there was a page 2 so I am behind on my comments :34:


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