# Teryx belt on brute feedback, problems, and questions



## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Ok as a few of you guys know i put a tyrex belt on the brute along with 31 skinny laws, almond primary, and gorilla axles all at one time. 

Well at first she pulled strong as a swamp donkey and would tote the tires up almost like the stockers. Well after a good break in and a good bit of miles, she has stopped toting the tires up with ease. 

Its actually trying to come up then the belt starts to slip and a tad bit, I mean very Faint bit of smoke comes out the snorkels. the belt has not been smoked. Also the RPMs go up when it starts to slip. It may only do this for a second or two then pulls normal. 

I have the cover pulled off and the belt is within speck of 25mm to the best of my ability to check the deflection, its still about a 1/16 sticking above the secondary on the top cogs. 

It almost seems to have lost alot of low end power but I know its from the belt issue. Does this sound like it needs a sheave taken out or more put in, I feel like this will be trial and error being its not a stock belt.

Also is this just something I should expect from the 31's and almond primary. Should I put the stock primary back in. I really like the stall, but not the slipping. 

Almost seems like the belt has stretch but is still in correct deflection. If pictures are needed please let me know and i can take some.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

or should i get a yellow secondary???


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

come on guys, Please send any ideas, I am trying to get the problem fixed before tomorrow, May put the stock belt back on and see how she does.


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## geo (Aug 14, 2009)

i would try the yellow secondary it should help.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

If you left the stock secondary in it...that's your problem. Red or yellow, either would have saved your belt. You can only run the stock secondary up to 27"...even that isn't recommended. Lets hope the glazing isn't too deep to save the new belt.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

I have a red secondary and almond primary


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> I have a red secondary and almond primary


Ok, that should have been enough. Is there any possibility that water got in somehow? And main seal leakage? Maybe lighten-up on the primary spring a little...like go to a maroon...or try the yellow secondary. Somehow we need to get the pressure up on the contact area.

Can you see on the shieve where it has been slipping.. which clutch and about how far down from the top?


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Not a drop of water and no oil at all!! I will take some pictures and post them up when I get home about where its slipping on the sheaves because I really didn't look that close. Could the red secondary have gotten weak over these 3 years its been in and the 31's just got the best of it? Pics coming this afternoon of what I am seeing. Sorry to post on this but it is not a typical belt question I could search for


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> Not a drop of water and no oil at all!! I will take some pictures and post them up when I get home about where its slipping on the sheaves because I really didn't look that close. Could the red secondary have gotten weak over these 3 years its been in and the 31's just got the best of it? Pics coming this afternoon of what I am seeing. Sorry to post on this but it is not a typical belt question I could search for


Its ok...we are here to help figure it out. I ran my red secondary for about three years maxed-out most of the time and it never lost anything so I don't think so unless it got realy hot a time or two.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

I am also leaning away from the weak red. - almost feel like the belt has either stretched a tad or I may have a little oil in it. Now that u say it the primary had a very very faint almost dusty look of something that's been spinning off of it. Not enough to sling off on the cover though. I just thought it was belt wear because the factory one had the same dusty stuff on the primary sheave. Like I said. Pictures coming this afternoon lol


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Also if I failed to mention. It only slips when I try to stand it up fron a dead stop. Its starts to come up and trys then falls back down like it let's go. Bites hard then let's go and slips and it slipped a little in some peanut butter yesterday in low in 4wd. But that was really really thick and I just winched out. All this being said its never boiled smoke out. Just a tiny tiny puff. Most people wouldn't see it unless looking for it then it would still be hard to see.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> I am also leaning away from the weak red. - almost feel like the belt has either stretched a tad or I may have a little oil in it. Now that u say it the primary had a very very faint almost dusty look of something that's been spinning off of it. Not enough to sling off on the cover though. I just thought it was belt wear because the factory one had the same dusty stuff on the primary sheave. Like I said. Pictures coming this afternoon lol


Well, there is grease in the secondary for the dogs and there are shaft seals that are supposed to keep that inside. I guess if one got a cut it could let some out. Probably see it slinging up the sides if it was. Wouldn't take much.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Ok guys I got off work early so here are some pictures of what I am looking at. First off the stuff I thought may be oil or grease is not. It is like some sort of a stain that will not come off, (was on there from the first belt). Second the belt does not looked glazed and the sheaves are smooth. The belt is a fingernail high in the secondary, but was a little higher in the first install. Here are the pics, please ask any questions and i will check it as I will be here working on my Audiotube for the bike for a ride tomorrow. Thanks again for the help so far. 

I cannot find any oil or water at all in there!!!!


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Wish you had a little better light and pics of the inside but what I can see seems to show loss of traction in a wide range but its a little hard to tell, and those sling-off larks at the top of the primary normaly comes from something traveling up the shieve and being slung off...like water or something. Well, you need to pull them both anyway and de-glaze them and see what you can do with the belt edge so maybe we can get some more inside pics. Get some acetone to clean both well before going back together, and do us a favor, lay the belt in the secondary while off and take a good look at the angle of the belt edges and the shieves. Someone on another forum said there was a belt angle difference between the tyrex belt and the stock Brute OEM, but if VFJ uses them they should be OK...except he does remachine the clutches.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

ok let me go break her down and more pictures to come. Is there a write up on how to deglaze everything.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> ok let me go break her down and more pictures to come. Is there a write up on how to deglaze everything.


Probably but just get yourself some 800g w/d sand paper and a rubber block and do small circles from top to bottom evenly all the way around. Do a little to the belt edge too but just enough to break the glaze. And clean it with either acetone or laquer thinner on a clean rag after.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Ok pictures are uploading to my host now, My question is, So is it Glazed? compaired to the original belt it is a little more shinny, Also what does the W/D mean? Wet Dry?? lol.

Also what have I done wrong and what can I do to keep it from glazing again?? Do I need to tighten it by taking a washer or two out?


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

here are some better pictures, Will a yellow secondary help this problem?? or make it to tight, It squeals while sitting still in high but stops in neutral and when under throttle. Could the belt be to tight, or the stall be glazing it over because i do alot of slow slow creek riding.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Not sure you did anything wrong, and they realy don't look all that bad. I don't see any bad burn marks, just some shiny on the primary and the secondary looks like it wasn't slipping on it. How about cleaning it up and maybe trying a different primary spring. That almond may be not so great a combo with the red secondary and that belt being a high stall and all. If you and the stock or pink or maroon to try, that might help put more flyweight effort back to the secondary and engage at a lower RPM which might be better for the belt. Just something to try because we already know what it has isn't working so great.

Also be real sure to clean the crank shaft and the inner primary hub with that acetone and don't touch it after...and be sure to give it exactly 68 foot pounts of touque...or what ever your book says...very important.

w/d = wet or dry


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Just deglazed the fire out of it and test rode. I was one step ahead of u lol. And yes I knew about the 69 foot ponds on the 08. Thanks. So its still doing it and I know its the primary slipping. About to take her back down and install the stock primary spring. I will report back shortly. Thanks again


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> Just deglazed the fire out of it and test rode. I was one step ahead of u lol. And yes I knew about the 69 foot ponds on the 08. Thanks. So its still doing it and I know its the primary slipping. About to take her back down and install the stock primary spring. I will report back shortly. Thanks again


Ok, good luck. The reason I mentioned the crankshaft and bub was because in the photo it isn't as shiny and clean as I usualy see them. Looks more like it been hot from that angle, and I know they can spin on there and change color...happened to me. Feels like the belt slipping too.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Ok so heres what the stock primary did! It still slips but maybe just maybe slips a little less. But still slips none the less. My last doable option at this point is try the old stock belt and see if this solves the problem. If it does. Does anyone need a brand new tyrex belt lol. Or I can try a yellow secondary. Which I am leaning towards


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Aahhhh let me take her back down and see if I got any spin marks. That's a goodd. Idea. What did u do to fix it. Please don't say a new crank lol


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> Aahhhh let me take her back down and see if I got any spin marks. That's a goodd. Idea. What did u do to fix it. Please don't say a new crank lol


I just cleaned it a little with that sand paper on both the crank and the clutch, cleaned it with acetone to get all the oil and dirt off, and torqued it to 70ftlbs instead of 69...but I cought mine before it spun too much.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Ok good news and bad news 2 good new first. Its not spinning on the crank and the old belt does the same thing, even worse. So I know its not the belt or the primary springs maybe. I feel like a yellow secondary may solve my problem. I just can't see how a secondary spring can make it stop slipping on the primary. Anyway the really good news to me is its not the belt so I didn't just flush 110 bucks down the tube.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> Ok good news and bad news 2 good new first. Its not spinning on the crank and the old belt does the same thing, even worse. So I know its not the belt or the primary springs maybe. I feel like a yellow secondary may solve my problem. I just can't see how a secondary spring can make it stop slipping on the primary. Anyway the really good news to me is its not the belt so I didn't just flush 110 bucks down the tube.


Well that is good news on the crank especialy. Now we need to find out why its slipping. And you are sure the deflection is about 25mms? Sure sits low in the secondary...not that that means anything...just used to seeing a bit more cogg sticking up. And the belt angle is good? Maybe the Red secondary has gone weak. It'l be the first I herd of though...but...these are Kawies...anything can happen...lol


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

To compare the new belt to the old belt where they was riding are identical. And its making contact very nicely in the sheaves. No sunlight in any areas. As far as deflection its showing 24 to 25mm. 

Let's be sure I am checking it correctly. First I am laying a flat bar on the belt between the two sheaves pressing it down to make sure the belts in its proper spot. Then pressing the belt down guesstimating 13 LBS because my neighbor has the fish scales. Then from the bottom of the bar to the top of the belt measure with my handy MM ruler. Does this sound correct?? I am going to order a yellow secondary and see how that treats me. I have become a pro at taking them down lol


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## Brutemankelley (Dec 18, 2010)

Use heavier weights and problem solved. I have 63 g in my trail brute and my nitrous drag brute with terex belts and no issues.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

what weight weights would you recommend? and would you say to get the yellow secondary??


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> To compare the new belt to the old belt where they was riding are identical. And its making contact very nicely in the sheaves. No sunlight in any areas. As far as deflection its showing 24 to 25mm.
> 
> Let's be sure I am checking it correctly. First I am laying a flat bar on the belt between the two sheaves pressing it down to make sure the belts in its proper spot. Then pressing the belt down guesstimating 13 LBS because my neighbor has the fish scales. Then from the bottom of the bar to the top of the belt measure with my handy MM ruler. Does this sound correct?? I am going to order a yellow secondary and see how that treats me. I have become a pro at taking them down lol


Sounds right on checking deflection. Might check that all weights and pins are free and not binding. Maybe heavier weights...


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Gonna check the weights and stuff tomorrow. Headed to the drag track now. I am leaning towards the yellow secondary may be my fix and the red might have gotten weak when the 31s took hold lol


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## Brutemankelley (Dec 18, 2010)

Heavier weights is quicker engagement and tighter belt grip. Waste your time with all those spring changes, I know what I'm talking about, I've R&D'd about every combo possible. V-force john will tell you the same thing about the weights. Just add weight in the holes at the tip of your stock 58 g weights with bolt and nut. This will not make me a dime, just trying to help you and save you a lot of time.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Brutemankelley said:


> Heavier weights is quicker engagement and tighter belt grip. Waste your time with all those spring changes, I know what I'm talking about, I've R&D'd about every combo possible. V-force john will tell you the same thing about the weights. Just add weight in the holes at the tip of your stock 58 g weights with bolt and nut. This will not make me a dime, just trying to help you and save you a lot of time.


Sounds easy enough. Better give it a try. Thanks Brutemankelley.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Whoa whoa whoa. No since in getting pissy or ugly. I believe you I would just like to try the cheaper options out first. If the yellow secondary does not work it looks like I will need weights. I am interested in how u do your own weights. And thanks for your input


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## Brutemankelley (Dec 18, 2010)

This is cheaper, $3 or less for 4mm bolt and nut (4 each).


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Oh I see now, I was under the impression I would need to buy the EPI weights at 150 bucks, Do you have a how to or a write up on how to do this??? I am very interested in doing this since its cheaper and i may be able to do it today!! thanks


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Ok so I deglazed the belt and the sheaves again, put the 4mm bolts and lock washers on with red lock tite. and put the tyrex belt in witth the stock primary. She does not slip as bad or do the little puff of smoke, rode the bike about 3 easy hours to help with maybe some more belt break in. But it did still slip a little, but not as bad the one time I tried to stand it up. Gonna order the Yellow secondary tuesday and see what she does then, The only thing I can figure is maybe I am not measuring my deflection correctly or the red secondary just cant handle the 31's 
Also thanks for the weight trick, it does feel a little better.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Sense you are taking it down again, lets check both clutches for smooth operation. On the primary, pull the spring and work the spider making sure it moves smooth and there isn't much play on the spindle. On the secondary, after the spring is out, put the dogs back in and slip it back on the trans shaft and put the nut back on by hand and put it in gear, then work it in and out to feel if it hangs or has any rough spots anywhere.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

well I have decided to get the yellow primary from EPI, so my question is will the yellow spring make the belt ride higher in the secondary or will I need to take a shim out. I am wanting to get the coggs a little higher in the secondary while i have the secondary torn down, Thanks for all the help


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## vogie (Jun 16, 2010)

Any chance you can put up some pics of the added bolts? I'm curious in doing this possibly.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

I can but it will be at the end of the week when I get my yellow secondary in, reason is i have it all back together now and don't want to tear it down just to take pictures, because we may ride this afternoon. But Yes I will get you some. Its super easy and I got everything I needed in stainless steel at lowes


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## vogie (Jun 16, 2010)

Awesome, looking forward to seeing what ya did.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> well I have decided to get the yellow primary from EPI, so my question is will the yellow spring make the belt ride higher in the secondary or will I need to take a shim out. I am wanting to get the coggs a little higher in the secondary while i have the secondary torn down, Thanks for all the help


The shims set the distance the shieves stay apart, not the spring. That's why we use them to change deflection. No matter how the belt sets in the secondary, you do want to go by deflection only, and the closer to 22/23mms ...the better. I do find it strange how low your sits though.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Welp just got off the phone with EPI and ordered a yellow and also talked to tech support. They actually told me they have had this issue come up with springs that were a few years old. Mine is three years. They said the yellow should fix the problem and actually a new red prob would as well. But I just opted for the yellow. Do you guys think the yellow with the almond primary would be a good setup or stay with the stock primary. Also they said they usually have the primary go weak first but it happens either way. Maybe this will solve my prob lem lol


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> Welp just got off the phone with EPI and ordered a yellow and also talked to tech support. They actually told me they have had this issue come up with springs that were a few years old. Mine is three years. They said the yellow should fix the problem and actually a new red prob would as well. But I just opted for the yellow. Do you guys think the yellow with the almond primary would be a good setup or stay with the stock primary. Also they said they usually have the primary go weak first but it happens either way. Maybe this will solve my prob lem lol


I think Bootlegger would be the one to talk to about a combo with the yellow.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Just sent him a PM thanks for all your help NMKAWI, I will keep yall posted, the yellow will be in friday, Just got to make my secondary tool


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Well I am frustrated beyond belief, After the yellow secondary install, The bolts in the weights, and the almond or stock primary, she is still slipping under heavy throttle on takeoff. I have decided tomorrow to take it all back down again and take a shim out and tighten the belt even though the deflections shows to be correct. Maybe its something with the tyrex belt and it needs to be a little tighter. Anyway My camera was dead today so I have it on charge for those pictures you wanted of the bolts in the weights. Can anyone tell me if a loose belt grips fine until heavy heavy throttle? or could it be something else.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

also I might add while sitting still after a few minutes in gear the belt will begin to squeal a little like it should. Also what will the bike do or feel like if the belt is to tight after i take a shim out???


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

You get under 22mms and it will squeel all the time and probably creap forward in gear. Those marks you have on the primary spindle is from just that...and grit and belt dust getting under it....but mostly from being tight. Something is wrong for sure. I don't like how your belt sits in the secondary and I realy don't like what I see of the crank. 

As the RPMs increase, the flyweights apply more and more pressure to the belt to force the prinary closed against the spring and spread the secondary apart...against its spring...so..the more it spreads the secondary, the more pressure there is on the belt...just look at the spring chart and see the differences. Slipping under that pressure will leave a hell of a mark on one of the clutches...but we don't realy see anything.

I sure would like to see some good photos of the shieves, the crank and the primary hub. I think although it doesn't look it, the primary is slipping on the crank. You might have a crack in the hub that's closed or cant see when off maybe.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

ok well tightened the belt and that sure wasn't it. Squeals really bad now but did grip a little better, here are some pictures of the weights i made and several others you ask for. As for the primary spinning on the cranks, It almost looks like it was a little in the hub assy. I sanded them really good and cleaned them up and torqued to 71 pounds and no change. I am just going to get a OEM brute belt and see what happens later, about to go and put the shim back in and check the crank and hub to see if I can see any spinnage on the freshly cleaned parts.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Well...it all looks OK to me. So strange....The low side of the secondary is a little different then the rest. Is it scared or unsmooth in any way? Or is that below where the belt runs at full shiftout.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Well I know she's not slipping on the crank for a fact now. It was a good possibility and worth looking into though. And it has no scars or anything to even catch your finger nail on. Its the weirdest thing ever in my book. I am going to run it until it breaks or gets better and see. Lol


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Bootlegger told me that there are some spring combinations that actualy don't work well together. Maybe drop mhim a PM and see what he says.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

I actuall sent him a few PM's a couple days ago back and fourth and he said the combo I have now will work but creates alot of heat with the yellow secondary, But it will work fine. I am going to PM him this post and see if he can help with any of the problems I am having. Also I will add the belt it tending to glaze rather quickly but it not slipping anywhere through the throttle range other than what I have said under full throttle. Could I have already ruined the tyrex belt.and there is just no fixing it?? I am going to run it until it pops. I have taken her down close to 30 times now and need a break. I know i will never break it or smoke it the way I ride because i putt around everywhere and hardly ever pop a wheelie. We will see. I also just feel like its the 31's and wish I had someone else that know clutches to ride it and tell me how it feels locally lol.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

WANT TO SEND A HUGE THANKS TO MIMB. Thanks for all the how to's and helping with all my questions. I can now be considered the local guy to put springs in your clutches lol. Thanks again


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## Brutemankelley (Dec 18, 2010)

I'm not familiar with the yellow secondary, is it stiffer than an almond? From the looks of your clutchs your getting no belt travel. You may be coil binding, meaning the springs are fully compressed and the belt is where ever it is and no more movement. If you can try an almond secondary and see what happens. Where are you located? I'm in N.C. would like to help you if you were close enough. Oh yea your not slipping on the crank or it would be blue from the heat.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

yellow is heavier than the red by 20 lbs. supposedly more grip, I have figured out its not slipping on the crank shaft, I am located in hattiesburg MS a liitle to far for Test and tune lol. I thanks you for the offer though, I believe the almond secondary will only cause more slippage. This only started when the 31's was put on. LOL i am at a loss now.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

may have to do like bootlegger says and give john at v-force. maybe he can shed some light on whats going on.


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## Brutemankelley (Dec 18, 2010)

He's going to tell you simular thing. The 31's changed your gearing and grip. The pic. of your secondary shows the belt is not going down in the pulley (coil bind). I have been thru this before. If you can borrow any secondary spring just to try. Put a stock one in for test. I have a gray/white from V-force John in my secondary on my trail bike with big tires, works great. This clutching can be very frustrating. Good luck.I was down there last November for the big v-twin race at Monkey Mayhem 3 off the Kawie riders forum.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

i may order a few of them below the red and R&D all of them over the next few weeks. Thanks guys


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Brutemankelly's got a good point...and I know he has put some HD HPs to the ground in his past so if anyone would know how to her the powe from a to c through b,.. he would. Without being there I am just stumped.


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## Brute650i (Dec 17, 2008)

My opinion from running some different springs in secondary is that the red and yellow secondary are absolutely not needed to not have belt slip and me personally will never run one. I ran 29.5 laws on almond secondary and never burnt it and i rode it hard with the built motor. I did break a belt but it was an actual belt breaking not from slipping because it was no marks on either clutch. That was with the almond sec. and 29.5 laws spraying with about 95hp to the wheels.

anything above a red and even a lime green really coil bind bad thats the reason for them cutting out so much top end when installing them but They are a cheap fix 

just my 2 cents


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

ok so what colors should I get and try?? I am with yall


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## Brutemankelley (Dec 18, 2010)

I think the almond or VFJ's grey/red stripe which I have would do the job.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

anyone got VFJ's number and is he a nice guy to talk with???


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> anyone got VFJ's number and is he a nice guy to talk with???


John is a great guy and he'll be glad to help. Just Yahoo or Google vforcejohn, go to his web page and head to the bottom. His number is there. If you have a few bucks, he does the best clutch work for Brutes you ever seen.


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## Brutemankelley (Dec 18, 2010)

* 570-773-1721 Interstate Motor Sports Barnesville, Pa. Ask for John Jr. tell him I referred you.*


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## Brute650i (Dec 17, 2008)

I personally would run dark green or almond secondary. We still need to find out why their is slippage. 

Does all your weights weigh the same? Move freely? Not egged out? Something just isn't right


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

All weights move like butter none are egged or beat up. Remember guys I never had this problem until I installed the 31's gorilla axles which should not matter and the tyrex belt. This has never been a problem over the 4 years I owned the bike until the 31S. It even done it with the red secondary and stock primary with the 31's and when I put the stock belt back on it done it even worse. I just think my clutching is not wanting the 31's. About to give john jr a call


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Well just got off the phone with john. He said it sounds like something in the primary is worn out. Said it may need a rebuild. He ask me to send him this thread and see what he can figure out. We will see. Sounds like I need to let him do the WORKS to it anyway


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## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

i didnt feel like takin the time to read all 4 pages, but when i had my brute on 31s, i had belt problems like you are describing when i ran the red secondary, i switch to the yellow and my problem went away. 

i wish i could remember if i shimmed my secondary prior to putting in the yellow or if i did it at the same time.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

I tried the yellow with no success. Also other springs and tightened and loosened the belt. Read the other 4 pages. This has been like chasing a ghost


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## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

oh guess i shoulda read then lol...


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Well I spoke with john jr today after he looked at all my pictures in this thread, he said that the primary seems to be doing something funny and is not letting the belt ride higher up through the sheaves. So after a great talk he is getting them in a few weeks after a ride or two for the stage 3 mod and to fix any problems they may have. Thanks for all the help guys


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

take some pictures when you get it back before the install .I would love to see the work done ,as I am also in the market for a rebuild.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

will do


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## 88rxn/a (Mar 2, 2009)

sweet!
if life would not get in the way i could finish saving for my VFJ clutch. i know mine needs rebuilt and will cost more than just a machining...(knocks like no tomorrow)
from what ive read you will not be disappointed...best bang for the buck MOD!


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

yeah he told me it would do 50 in low over the phone today lol, How fast will they go in high is my question lol, and do they still have all the bottom grunt to stand it up in high with the VFJ clutch.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> yeah he told me it would do 50 in low over the phone today lol, How fast will they go in high is my question lol, and do they still have all the bottom grunt to stand it up in high with the VFJ clutch.


Reports on the VFJ Stage3 mod in high range in the upper 70s and some into the 80s. Major Low end power increase..some say almost double...at least lots of people report standing them on the racks before they could get off it. BE CAREFUL until you get used to it.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

nmkawierider said:


> Reports on the VFJ Stage3 mod in high range in the upper 70s and some into the 80s. Major Low end power increase..some say almost double...at least lots of people report standing them on the racks before they could get off it. BE CAREFUL until you get used to it.



:bigeyes: WOW if this is true she is about to be a beast, I cant wait until the rides slow down and I can send her off.


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## Brutemankelley (Dec 18, 2010)

If you ship it Monday you get it back Friday, unless something changed. His turn around is quick.


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

That's what he told me. The whole ordeal only take one day to do. So I may send it next week. I want to feel this speed again. I bet the brute has not been over 35 in the last 3 years. I may get hurt lol


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

Well my Stage 3 from VFJ is currently in route back to me, it will be monday or tuesday when it comes in, John had a brute there and I actually event sent the new tyrex belt for him to make sure it wasn't that, he said that the years of the 29.5's and red secondary coil bind had eventually grooved the primary sheave some and was making it not ride all the way out through the primary, He re machined them and done the spider mod and a #1 primary spring and the #3 secondary, he also went as far as testing it on another customers brute and said its operates flawless. I can't wait to get it back and give my review. Thanks guys for all the help and I may have a few springs for sale before long lol. John is a great guy to deal with and I suggest his service to anyone out there. I will give feedback on the clutch itself after it goes back on. Already took the forks out of the housing.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

steveo3318 said:


> Well my Stage 3 from VFJ is currently in route back to me, it will be monday or tuesday when it comes in, John had a brute there and I actually event sent the new tyrex belt for him to make sure it wasn't that, he said that the years of the 29.5's and red secondary coil bind had eventually grooved the primary sheave some and was making it not ride all the way out through the primary, He re machined them and done the spider mod and a #1 primary spring and the #3 secondary, he also went as far as testing it on another customers brute and said its operates flawless. I can't wait to get it back and give my review. Thanks guys for all the help and I may have a few springs for sale before long lol. John is a great guy to deal with and I suggest his service to anyone out there. I will give feedback on the clutch itself after it goes back on. Already took the forks out of the housing.


Good. I knew John would find the issue.


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## 88rxn/a (Mar 2, 2009)

def. report back!


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## myst3ry (Mar 5, 2011)

any updates on this ??


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## steveo3318 (Jan 3, 2009)

yeah I actually made another post about the VFJ stage 3, Its a beast and feels great now, Will actually run 50 without sounding like its going to blow up, and has even more low end grunt/grab


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