# Snapped Brute 750 rear axle - any tips or tricks in replacing it?



## soup (Mar 5, 2010)

Riding down the power lines today I was climbing up a rocky section and managed to snap my left rear axle off above the inner CV joint, close to the differential from the feel of it flopping around.

I assume I have to take the hub apart to get the axle out? Looks like I have to get the hub nut off, maybe move the upper a arm? and then I should be able to pop it out.

Any tips or tricks from those of you who've replaced rear axles? Anything I should look out for or avoid?

I think I'm going to go with one of the 100 dollar axle assemblies from Ebay - sure beats paying 360 at a dealer.

It's a 2007 BF750.


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## BRUTEOFSTEEL (Jun 8, 2009)

You say the splined part of the axle is still in the diff? Not 100% sure about the rear but if it is the same as the front I would pull the axle on the other side as well then use a punch or drift of some sort to knock the broken part out of the other side. If you try to pry too much on the diff it self you may damage the housing or the seal. Just my opinion but I would get a rhino axle from superatv or one of the sponsors of this site for $200 before i spent $100 on one of those knock off oem axles. If you can grab whats left of the axle with something that would be a lot easier but if not just pull the other side. I prefer to pull the a-arms myself but you can take the ball joints loose at the knuckle if you want. Good luck getting that axle nut loose if the shaft is in half and you can't use the brakes to hold it. Use of a impact would be help full. I use the handle off of my floor jack slid over the handle on a high quality 36" 1/2" breaker bar to get mine loose using the brakes to hold the wheel from turning. The hardest part for me is that nut the rest is easy.


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## BRUTEOFSTEEL (Jun 8, 2009)

I forgot you said rear. Just take the upper and lower bolts out of the knuckle to remove it. Sorry. I prefer to pull the arms in the front just to clarify.


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## drtj (May 3, 2009)

There is a video in the how to's.


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## soup (Mar 5, 2010)

drtj said:


> There is a video in the how to's.


Doh, I looked there first but didn't think to check out the CV joint replacement video.

Thanks for the tips, I'm going to try to take it apart today and hope it's easy to get the piece out of the differential.


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## Brute2469 (Feb 21, 2010)

Good luck getting it out. And i agree with BRUTEOFSTEEL get the rhino axle. I just got mine a couple of weeks ago and looks just as good as my gorilla and bigger than stock for sure and at $200 with a 1 year warranty you cant go wrong giving it a try. I got mine from superatv.


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## Masher (Jan 16, 2009)

Yes, pick it up from our sponsor.


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## steeler (Feb 17, 2010)

i had a hard time getting the hub nut off. 1-1/16 socket worked good but had to let my compresor get to 140psi before the impact broke it free. Maybe try to break it free with a ratchet and cheater pipe before u jack it up and take the wheel off


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## TC Powersports (Jan 22, 2010)

If anyone is looking for a Rhino Brand axle give me a shout so we can get them shipped !


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

steeler said:


> i had a hard time getting the hub nut off. 1-1/16 socket worked good but had to let my compresor get to 140psi before the impact broke it free. Maybe try to break it free with a ratchet and cheater pipe before u jack it up and take the wheel off


 
That's what I use. 1-1/16" socket with a 425lb impact. Come off every time.


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## steeler (Feb 17, 2010)

Yeah, you really got to pound on it hard to get ur nut off...lol


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## soup (Mar 5, 2010)

So once I got it apart (new axle came today):
It appears the axle snapped off directly within the inboard part of the inner CV joint. There is no part of the axle protruding, it's flush with the inner assembly within the inner CV.

Anyone have any tips on how to get the last part of the CV and axle out? I tried just yanking on the part of the CV that is left, but **** if I can move it more than 1/16 of an inch - just can't get the leverage on it I'd have if the axle was still intact.

I'm thinking maybe I'll pick up a huge pair of locking pliers, lock them on the remaining part of the CV and then try pulling straight out? 

Or do you think in the end I've got no choice but to pull the other wheel then axle, and tap it out from the right side?

I agree I should have bought the Rhino axle, after dealing with this sonofawitch I never want another snapped off axle again...lol


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## derk (Nov 24, 2009)

See if you can take out the axle on the other side and tap the broken axle out with a punch from the other side. The lock ring has it stuck in there and i really think it would be tough to get the remaining part of that axle out if it's broken off in the housing. That's what you're saying right? Just trying to make sure we're on the same page.


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## soup (Mar 5, 2010)

Yep you're spot on.

I got the inner workings of the cv joint out - all that's left is the green metal shell of the inboard CV assembly. The axle is snapped flush with the part of that green metal that is closest to the differential.

I took a large pair of vice grips, locked it on the green metal and yanked as hard as I could - no luck. At this point I think taking the other axle out and punching this one from the other side is probably my only feasible option - I just need to suck it up and do it tomorrow I suppose.

Thanks for the help!


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## derk (Nov 24, 2009)

No problem, let us know if you have anymore questions. Hopefully this will work for ya


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## greenmachine (Dec 19, 2008)

I'm in the same boat both axles still in any other sugg?


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