# Secondary pulley stuck



## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

I'm in the process of installing the secondary spring and can't get the pulley off the shaft. I've got an 04 and it's never been removed. I can get it to move about 1/8 of an inch but not any further. I tried a three jaw puller but even tightening the puller up by hand the sheave part of the pulley started flexing. The way I got it to move as far as it has was to have someone pull on it with both hands while I tapped on the shaft with a brass drift, then I'd squirt some penetrating oil on the splines and tighten it back with the nut, then pull and tap, then tighten, pull, tap, tighten. After repeating this 8 or ten times it'll now move about an 1/8th. I've thought about heating the pulley slightly with a propane torch to try and get it to expand but I think by the time I got the steel splined part of the pulley hot enough to expand I would damage the aluminum. 

It looks like there are three distinct places in the casting of the pulley that looks like it could be tapped out and use a steering wheel style puller to remove this beast. Has anyone ever tried this?

Right now I have the right wheels up on cinder blocks to help the penetrating oil seep into the splines and left it over night.

Can anyone think of something I may have overlooked?


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## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

I've taken of several secondarys and all of them just slide right off except one. It was a major PITA to remove. But what i done to get it off is what you are already trying to do. I sprayed WD-40 on the shaft and let it soak for a bit. Then i screwed the nut back on the shaft till it was flush with the threads. I had a friend tap on the nut with a hammer while i had both feet against the floor boards and a hand on each side of the secondary pulley and pulled as hard as i could. with each whack of the hammer it would move just a hair if that but It eventually came off this way.


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

Once you did finally get the pulley off, were you able to clean the splines and slip it back on or was there some kind of damage causing it to be stuck in the first place?


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## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

Nope. Once it was off it just slide back on very easy.

Be sure you clean all the penetrating oil off before you put it back together. Don't want any of that slinging on your belt hahaha.


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## sandman7655 (Feb 18, 2009)

i would put a little never sieze on the splines when you put it back on.


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

I thought about either doing that or taking it off more than once every 5 years. LOL


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## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

IBBruin said:


> I thought about taking it off more than once every 5 years. LOL


LOL that might help.

Seriously though i don't know what causes it. The one i had trouble with was a 08 Brute with only a couple hundred miles on it.


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

Ok, finally get the pulley off and go to install the lime green I bought from lilbigtonka and it will just barely compress small enough to install the snap ring. It's a KSS8 from EPI and according to their web site it's supposed to fit my P700. As you can see, it's MUCH longer. I'm going to call EPI tomorrow and see if I can get some answers. Anyone else have this much difference in the stock spring compared to an aftermarket EPI?


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## ranchermoe (Jan 8, 2009)

If I remember right, my almond spring looked like yours compared to the stocker.


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## sandman7655 (Feb 18, 2009)

thats right ,it is like that.


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## LetsGoOilers (Mar 15, 2009)

When we did my buddies we wondered the same thing but it went back together and works great!!


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## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

That looks about right. Heres a pic of the EPI green i had installed in my Brute next to the stock Brute spring.

You can see how much difference there is and the EPI green is one step lighter then the EPI Lime Green.


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## w8tnonu22 (Feb 3, 2009)

If you think that one is long you should try the red or yellow. It's normal to be longer. I had a problem with my lime being too fat. I even tried to install it again this weekend after sanding he paint off of it to see if that was the problem, but didn't work. The think is a good 1/8" too fat. When I compress it the rings won't go into the sleeves at each end.


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

I was mistaken about never pulling my secondary pulley. Read my post in the worst mod thread and you'll understand. Some things are best forgotten. LOL


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

The length of the spring is proper. You _really_ have to compress the sheet out of it. 
As said, look at that yellow spring. It's a hoot. Very strong.


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

hey man that spring is for your bike, so it will fit but yeah you def have to compress it alot to get it on and snap ring over it. the spring is alot thicker so therefore is going to be kinda tough to compress....but you will get it


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

I wasn't doubting whether or not you sold me the right spring, I was questioning EPI's ability to properly package it. LOL EPI recently sent me a wrong spring for a Yamaha I'm working on. 

I put it in there and it sure looks like after I get the snap ring in there and release the tension the coils are almost touching each other. There's almost no room for compression.


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

Ok, I got it installed and drove it last night without the cover in place. Everything works good. My primary is worn out. The sheaves have grooves worn in them, real bad grooves. All the bushings are worn out, weight bushings worn out, pretty much if it moves inside the primary, it's worn out. I checked and the kawi price for the assembly is over $500. I found a good used primary off of a 05 Brute at a local salvage yard for $150. I've looked at it and it's in almost new condition. I've compared them side by side and can't see any difference. I took my digital calipers and measured the large end of the tapered hole. Everything seems identical. The weights and springs may be different but I can always swap them with my old ones. Anyone ever used a BF primary in a Prairie?


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## Yesterday (Jan 2, 2009)

compare the factory part numbers of the two? also, how'd you like the improved low end? =)


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

The first set of numbers in the kawi part number are the same. The numbers after the dash change up.

Without the cover on I really didn't want to get into it to hard and take a chance of my leg getting caught up in all that and ripped to shreds. I'm picking up the used primary this afternoon and should have it all together tonight. I'll give it a test run and let ya know how it all works.


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## w8tnonu22 (Feb 3, 2009)

IBBruin said:


> Ok, I got it installed and drove it last night without the cover in place. Everything works good. My primary is worn out. The sheaves have grooves worn in them, real bad grooves. All the bushings are worn out, weight bushings worn out, pretty much if it moves inside the primary, it's worn out. I checked and the kawi price for the assembly is over $500. I found a good used primary off of a 05 Brute at a local salvage yard for $150. I've looked at it and it's in almost new condition. I've compared them side by side and can't see any difference. I took my digital calipers and measured the large end of the tapered hole. Everything seems identical. The weights and springs may be different but I can always swap them with my old ones. Anyone ever used a BF primary in a Prairie?


They have done this. I don't know if the lime I got was packaged wrong, but it's either that or made wrong. Way too fat.


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

I ended up removing the paint on both ends and MAYBE .020 of the steel spring before it would fit in the cups and even then I had to use pliers to squeeze the spring into the cups before I compressed it.


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## w8tnonu22 (Feb 3, 2009)

Yeah I tried that I sanded the paint off the side . When I compress it the new coil hit about dead center of the cups and will not fall down in them.


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## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

IBBruin i cant say for sure if the BF primary is the same as the Prairie primary but i would think it should work just fine. I guarantee you theres someone one Kawieriders that can answer that question for you.

As for the BF primary spring you will be fine. It has a little stiffer shift out but IMO thats a good thing.


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

For everyones info, an 04 Prairie and an 05 Brute primary will interchange. I set them side by side on the work bench and the only thing I could tell different was the Brute spring is definitely stiffer. I installed it last night and took it for a test ride. Me likeee.


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## cigaro (Dec 18, 2008)

I wonder if the weights are the same?


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

I don't know about the weights. The field I have to ride in is not really a good place to really open it up. I can tell ya though it feels like it goes from 0 - 30 in 2 seconds. I may not be able to go any faster but it sure gets there quick.


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## Yesterday (Jan 2, 2009)

figured you'd like the stiffer spring after all them years stock!


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

IBBruin said:


> For everyones info, an 04 Prairie and an 05 Brute primary will interchange. I set them side by side on the work bench and the only thing I could tell different was the Brute spring is definitely stiffer. I installed it last night and took it for a test ride. Me likeee.


 
all EPI springs are also interchangeable in all prairie 360, 650, 700 and Brute 750


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## Yesterday (Jan 2, 2009)

phreebsd said:


> all EPI springs are also interchangeable in all prairie 360, 650, 700 and Brute 750


 put the yellow in your 360!!


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