# Should I Mod My Clutch



## geauxtigers650 (May 20, 2009)

I have a 650 Prairie with all the mods in my sig would yall recomend changing the springs in my clutch, i've gotten mixed signals from people. Thanks!!:rockn:


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

yep. I would Change the secondary spring.

Maroon (Lighter than stock. Not the same as the maroon primary) 
Black (Almost same as stock) 
Almond (Good for 27'' and lighter 28'') 
Green (Good for heavier 27'' and all 28" ) 
Lime green(Good for heavier 28'' and maybe 29.5") 
Red (Perfect for 29.5'' and the lighter 30") 
Yellow (Good on only 30'' or larger most aggressive tires)


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## geauxtigers650 (May 20, 2009)

Thanks for the reply, so i should go with the green?


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## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

I agree.Those 28's are a load for the stock springs.The green would be a big help.

Have you had any belt problems in the past?


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## muddnfool (Mar 13, 2009)

i had a lime green and was to much green was ok i got the almond in mine it runs fine and im sorta a speed demon but the outlaws are heavier than mine and i would go to a maroon or black primary to go with the secondary spring there will be a slight stall put you get used to it......wat do u think polaris????


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## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

Black primary??

I have the maroon in mine. I love it had close to no stall and pulls hard all the way through but the stock works pretty good to.


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## geauxtigers650 (May 20, 2009)

Metal Man said:


> I agree.Those 28's are a load for the stock springs.The green would be a big help.
> 
> Have you had any belt problems in the past?


I've only been running the 28" for a month or so, no belt problems yet and i've rode it pretty hard. So i guess everyone thinks the green secondary will be the way to go leaving the stock primary?


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## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

That will work fine. The Primary springs are very easy to change. If at a later date you want to play around with different ones you can change them out easily.

Check out the spring chart to give you an idea about whats what.
http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/view.php?pg=kawasakiclutchspringchart


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## muddnfool (Mar 13, 2009)

i think theres a black might b wrong yeah i love my maroon u cant really feel the stall and i can go 30 and im not even on it


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

^ I like my maroon primary too, I can go 30 & my front wheels arnt even on it... the ground that is!! :rockn:


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## geauxtigers650 (May 20, 2009)

Thanks for the help guys, what else should I do to this thing, it's only got 125 hours on it so it's in very good shape.


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## muddnfool (Mar 13, 2009)

what do u mean by what else


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## hondarecoveryman (Feb 28, 2009)

Lots man, Lots its only limited by your wallet:haha:


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## muddnfool (Mar 13, 2009)

true im saving for amr or flynt and vfj stage 3 and i think some laws or zillas depends on money like u said


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## geauxtigers650 (May 20, 2009)

hondarecoveryman said:


> Lots man, Lots its only limited by your wallet:haha:


Would you reccomend putting that moose module on it? What kind of gains did you see.


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## Muleskinner (Apr 24, 2009)

Has anybody checked their RPM's when changing the clutch parts? HP output has a HUGE affect on clutch tuning so elevation, temperature and mods all affect what will work. With my setup the stock clutching UNDER LOAD FULL THROTTLE would shift up to 7800 rpm and drop or jump up/down 500 rpm when the load changed then slowly recover. Now with the EPI kit it runs at 8300 rpm and doesn't move more than 150 rpm total. I don't have a Dyno to confirm at what RPM peak HP is made but this setup runs great. I don't claim expert status on ATV clutching but have been tuning sleds for 15 years and the general rule for them is to make no changes without monitoring shift point (RPM) and backshifting characteristics. What are you guys doing for comparison before and after the changes?


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

^ Let's see, the ablilty to carry the front wheels for long distances, ability to out pull your buddies in a short race, ability to punch it from rolling 20mph & pull the front wheels up.... Those kinds of tests.. :rockn:  lol


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## muddnfool (Mar 13, 2009)

i cant keep the front wheels down


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## muddnfool (Mar 13, 2009)

geauxtigers650 said:


> Would you reccomend putting that moose module on it? What kind of gains did you see.


i would get the moose u can wheelie like crazy


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## Muleskinner (Apr 24, 2009)

Real world performance is definitely the acid test, I just stick with what I know so went with monitoring the engine, it gets rid of the "feel" approach. On the other hand I went from being able to pull wheelies when punching the throttle to having to stay well below full throttle or the tires break free and won't lift the front end. Pavement is near scary the way if goes vertical. Buddy has a Can-Am 800 and wins long races due to top speed but I kill him off the line through the first couple hundred feet and in the mud. :aargh4: Long live the Brute Force! :rockn:


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

^ I laugh every time I read your signature.... :bigok:



> 1977 Wife - Might be old but sure is fun to ride


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## Muleskinner (Apr 24, 2009)

Thanks, but she doesn't. :haha:


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## MS Mud Militia (Jun 9, 2009)

That's funny, I don't care who you are. 
I think I will go with the recomended green and black set up. I run 28 laws and I guess due to the weight, it takes a lot more to get the front tires off the groung from a stop. Rolling 5mph+..... NO PROBLEM!


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## JArod (Jun 11, 2009)

change your primary and secondary springs first you will be suprised the differents tha moose may not even be needed, up to the rider


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## cigaro (Dec 18, 2008)

Green and BlacK?


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## Yesterday (Jan 2, 2009)

green turns to black


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## cigaro (Dec 18, 2008)

Maybe he's going to stack them....lol


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## MS Mud Militia (Jun 9, 2009)

Sorry. I ment to say the green set up. 
Going riding right now. Just thought I would check in before I go. 
I'll have pics tomorrow.


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## Bootlegger (Dec 18, 2008)

If you go with a Lime Green or above you NEED to change your primary as well. To atleast a Maroon one. The reason being is when you put a stiff secondary and leave a weak primary you can still slip it as well....of course it alot harder. Even if your just trail riding an not racing. You HAVE to compensate for the stiffness of the secondary to get the best results...some don't think so....but some do. Not saying I know it all but I have tried about 15 different set ups in the last 6 weeks.....LOL!!!


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## cigaro (Dec 18, 2008)

Boot is right^^^^^^


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## Bootlegger (Dec 18, 2008)

STOGI said:


> Boot is right^^^^^^


Thanks....


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## muddnfool (Mar 13, 2009)

^^^i learned this the hard way....


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## Bootlegger (Dec 18, 2008)

muddnfool said:


> ^^^i learned this the hard way....


What did you do??


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## muddnfool (Mar 13, 2009)

i put a lime green secondary in and i didnt change the primary and i burned a brand new belt....belt shot out the snorkel


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## Bootlegger (Dec 18, 2008)

muddnfool said:


> i put a lime green secondary in and i didnt change the primary and i burned a brand new belt....belt shot out the snorkel


Shoot...there is ALOT of people put Red and up and have good luck...but from my experiance if you go with a Red or Yellow secondary...to get teh BEST resluts go with atleast and Almond....I like the Brite Green woth those too. Neitehr one has much stall and help pull ALOT harder.. Myself I run a Maroon with the Almond -Lime Green.....If go up to a Blue Secondary...I go with an Almond Primary...People don't realize how much better it will perform when they do that. This is for playing in the Mud and trail riding...Racing...its a whole new ballgame.


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## IBBruin (Feb 10, 2009)

Ok, now you guys have me thinking I need to do something with my primary. Right now I'm running a yellow secondary with the stock Brute spring as my primary. I burnt a belt a couple of days ago and attributed it to playing hard so long in one hole and overheating it. Now I see that may not be the case.


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## cigaro (Dec 18, 2008)

I ran a stock primary with red secondary and didn't have problems when using a OEM belt. It chewed up a HPX though. With a yellow I would at least go with a pink but preferably a maroon primary. The stock clutch spring wants to shift out to quick for the yellow and puts tremendous strain on the belt. Especially when the yellow opens all the way and coil binds while the primary is still trying to close.


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## Bootlegger (Dec 18, 2008)

STOGI said:


> I ran a stock primary with red secondary and didn't have problems when using a OEM belt. It chewed up a HPX though. With a yellow I would at least go with a pink but preferably a maroon primary. The stock clutch spring wants to shift out to quick for the yellow and puts tremendous strain on the belt. Especially when the yellow opens all the way and coil binds while the primary is still trying to close.


:bigok: You the man Stogi.....

.I would go no less than a Maroon primary with the Yellow secondary...actually if it was mine I would run the Almond primary with is one above a Maroon. It has a Tiny bit of stall but not much...you can barley feel it. If your running 29.5's I would go with a Red secondary....yellow is a little much for them to me....but again...thats me...LOL!


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