# Pod Mod - By FABMAN



## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

**Origionally posted by FABMAN**

this is what I found
I got this info off Nyroc's site

Grizzly 700 - Adjust Fuel Map - pod mod - stalling fix

When I got my Grizz 700, it stalled a few times on the first ride when it was hot and I was pressing the throttle. Forum users have determined that the fuel map may need to be adjusted. Some have said set it to 50, but results vary. Try it until you find the number that works best for you. 

-------------- Fuel adjustment ------------------------------------------------- 

1. With the key in the off position, Hold "Select" & "Reset" at the same time. While holding them down turn the key on. The "d IAG" screen will pop up in 5-10 seconds. 
2. Press the Select button to get it to the "Co" screen. 
3. Hold "Select" & "Reset" again until the "C1" screen pops up. You should see a big "0" in the top of the screen too. 
4. Hold "Select" & "Reset" again until the C1 setting pops up at the lower right hand side of the screen. 
5. Press "Select" to raise the number and press "Reset" to lower the number. 
6. Turn the key off to reset to the new settings. 
7. Restart Quad 

The number you find works best may be different from the number that works best for someone else. 

Warning you can accidentally go into the diagnostic area of the pod. If you see a "d" I suggest turn the key off before you change something that you don't know how to get back. Let me know if you find more settings that we can use. 

You can get the pod to read engine RPM's by going through the same steps as if you are doing the pod mod but instead of turning the key off to save settings, start the engine. The Speedometer will read three large digits. Add a 0 to the end of number shown to get your RPM (160+0 is 1600rpm) It will only read up to 199 or 1990rpm, as this is just for showing you RPM while you set your idle. 

The silver knob on the end of the flex hose mounted to the CVT exhaust tube adjusts idle. Mine was turned up all the way, and my engine still stalled once in a while. I actually adjusted the throttle (set screw on cable wheel, left side of throttle body) a bit faster. Don't turn your idle up too high, or your clutch will begin to engage.


This is the 08. I also got this from Nyro's.
if i recall this is late 07 & 08. if you try the above first and no go this may be your next step

Grizzly 700 - European ECU Pod Mod

As with all mods, do at your own risk 

Can't get into the part of the diagnostics menu to adjust your fuel/air ratio? That is becuase you have a european ECU (engine control unit) There is a way to get into the menu but your not gunna have it as easy as everyone else... here is how 
1. Take off front luggage rack and the piece of plastic to expose the battery and junk under there 
2. Unscrew metal bar holding down the EPS (metal grey box) and then unscrew the EPS (electronic power stearing) it has wires going into the back of it. you do not have to unplug the wires, but make some room to work under it. 
3. Under the EPS is the is the ECU a black box with 1 wire harness plugged into it the wire harness has maby 20 or so wires. you need 1 of them. unplug the and unscrew the ECU and take it out to make some working room. on the right side of the harness you will see a yellow wire with a white stripe... BE SURE its the one on the RIGHT side of the harness. I think it was on the top row of wires and again yellow wire with white stripe. 
4. There is very little slack on these wires maby an inch and a half or so.. but cut the yellow wire with white stripe in about the middle. leave enough wire on both ends because you need to extend the wires. An 18 or 20 gauge wire will work fine for extending both ends of the wire you just cut. after extending the wires, mark the wire that goes into the plastic snap connector that will plug back into the ECU. That wire is important DO NOT mix em up. re-install the ECU and EPS leaving your new wires extended out. the wire you marked, the one that plugged back into the ECU, take it and ground the wire. i just loosened the ground screw for the battery and stuck it under there. ground = black terminal... (duh) now you are able to access the fuel/air ratio portion of the diagnostics menu by following the normal procedure...you know how because you already tried it earlier and found out you couldnt get there. and if you forgot how read tech tips or another post... After adjusting to where you want it, remove the wire from the battery that you just put on and connect it back to your other wire you extended. 

suggestions : when trying to connect the new wires to the short ones, go to home depot and buy some phone line splices. they have a button that you squeeze with a pair of channel locks and it will crimp your wires together and its weather resistant with some kinda silicone junk already inside the connector. only strip maby an 1/8 inch of the yellow wire with white stripe.. it makes it easier to depress that button... if you never used em before, try em out to be sure you know what the **** yer doin with emm. i also epoxied my wires where they enter the connector just for fun (hot glue if you want) im gunna find a single pull double throw switch so i can make a perminant setup so i just flip a switch ill mount by the 12v outlet and be able to get into my C menu. then flip it again to run the quad..... 

disconnect the battery before cuttin into the wire... (i didnt, but im an electricain so i know what im doin...) 

its easy so i dont wanna hear bout waaa waaaaa ill just spend 250 bucks on a power commander... well if you got no common sence, then spend the money the fun part is doin custome stuff like this to your quad and ridin it 

And now same place.

Grizzly 700 - Diagnostic Codes

Here is a list of the diagnostic codes you can display from the pod of the 700. 


Diagnostic code number on display followed by checking method. 

D01 
Throttle angle 
• Fully closed position 15 ~ 20 Check with throttle fully closed. 
• Fully opened position 95 ~ 100 Check with throttle fully open. 

D03 
Pressure difference (atmospheric pressure and intake air pressure). 
Displays the intake air pressure. Set the engine stop switch to "RUN", then operate the throttle while pushing the start switch. (If the display value changes, the performance is OK.) 

D05 
Intake air temperature. 
Displays the intake air temperature. Compare the actually measured intake air temperature with the meter. 

D06 
Coolant temperature. 
Displays the coolant temperature. Compare the actually measured coolant temperature with the meter. 

D07 
Vehicle speed pulse 0 ~ 999 
Check that the number increases when the rear wheel is rotated. The number is cumulative and does not reset each time the wheel is stopped. 

D08 
Lean angle sensor Remove the lean angle sensor and... 
• Upright 0.4 ~ 1.4 incline it more than 65 degrees. 
• Overturned 3.7 ~ 4.4 

D09 
Fuel system voltage (battery voltage): Approximately 12.0 
Set the engine stop switch to "RUN", and then compare with the actually measured battery voltage. (If the battery voltage is lower, perform recharging). 

D21 
Neutral switch Shift the transmission. 
• Neutral ON 
• In gear OFF 

D60 
EEPROM fault code display. 
• No history 00 
• History exists 01 

D61 
Malfunction history code display. 
• No history 00 
• History exists Fault codes 12-50 
• (If more than one code number is detected, the display alternates every two seconds to show all the detected code numbers. When all code numbers are shown, the display repeats the same process.) 

D62 
Malfunction history code erasure. 
• No history 0 — 
• History exists Up to 16 fault codes To erase the history, set the engine stop switch to "OFF" and then to 
"RUN". 

D70 Control number 00 ~ 255 


I hope this helps some one. If you go on there site you can get pic's too. but you have too register I think.


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## grizzlyadams (Dec 18, 2008)

If your going to do this mod to 08 or newer grizzly double check that you find the right yel/white wire, there are two of them and it is on the lower bank of the harness
just a friendly reminder


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## charlie6457 (Jan 18, 2009)

*just a little fyi..*

the yellow wires are one in the same..the wire exits the connector and makes a u-turn back into the connector..just pull it from the conduit...and it will make life much easier...you still have to have the correct wire terminal gounded for it to work, its just that the wires are not as short as some make them to be. you will have about 4-5 inches to work with on each end..


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

good info Charlie. Gonna save folks some time.


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