# catch can mod help??



## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

Hey guys Im new to MIMB and forums in general so please bear with me ha. I have an 09 Brute force 750 with the 840 kit and I am desperately needing to do the catch can mod. I have been reading the past few days and have found good help on doin the basic mod but Im pretty sure I need to tap into my valve cover, which is where Im lost. I really dont want to start the project without knwing exactly what I need to do. Any help? Ive been searching the forums but I cant find any detailed description on it other than the one where you just return the line back to the air box (not tapping the valve cover) :34:


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

I think this our main thread on it. If its not in there maybe someone will chime in soon here to help

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/6...-install-catch-can-mod-write-up-bf-freak.html


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

There are several ways to do it. Mine (when I was BF Freak) is good for the stock setups with normal amount of ring bypass. You have an 840 so you could do the same except run the upper vent to the pod with a filter, use the center port are your crankcase vent input and use the lower to drain back to the rear exhaust valve cover. You will have to tapp it bit that's not hard. Remember to cap the airbox port.


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## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

nmkawierider said:


> There are several ways to do it. Mine (when I was BF Freak) is good for the stock setups with normal amount of ring bypass. You have an 840 so you could do the same except run the upper vent to the pod with a filter, use the center port are your crankcase vent input and use the lower to drain back to the rear exhaust valve cover. You will have to tapp it bit that's not hard. Remember to cap the airbox port.


alright. I know this will sound dumb but what kind of fitting do I need to put in the valve cover, and how hard is it to get to? I had the kit done at a shop and I didnt really have the oil in the air box much at the time so I didnt bother with just having them do it then unfortunately. And what do you mean run it to the pod with a filter? Ive seen where people have ran it back to the airbox ?? sorry for all the questions btw.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

903redneckchevy said:


> alright. I know this will sound dumb but what kind of fitting do I need to put in the valve cover, and how hard is it to get to? I had the kit done at a shop and I didnt really have the oil in the air box much at the time so I didnt bother with just having them do it then unfortunately. And what do you mean run it to the pod with a filter? Ive seen where people have ran it back to the airbox ?? sorry for all the questions btw.


Well you can try and run it back to the airbox but many feel there is just too much volumn of air venting with BBKs to do that. They run the discharge to the pod and put a mini filter on top to keep dirt, dust and water out. 

On the valve cover...and we do that instead of just letting it condense in the can and run back to the crankcase through the vent hose because of that added discharge volumn pushes much more oil on wheel stands, just drill and tap it to a 3/8" MPT. Screw in a 90 degree with a barbed end for the hose.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I can confirm that doing it the regular way (one hose to bottle, other to air box, other capped off ) on an 840 doesn't work, at all.


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## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

ok cool. I appreciate all the help nmkawierider. I ordered my can the other day so im hopin it will be in by saturday so I can go ahead and do it. And waddaman, have you tried the route that I am going? I have seen where a lot of people that say they have done it but I have yet to have anybody tell me how well it fixed the problem. lol. I figure its got to work better than the stock setup which is why Im doing it. I rode last saturday and when I got home I noticed my oil was a little low and checked the airbox to find it full of oil.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

903redneckchevy said:


> ok cool. I appreciate all the help nmkawierider. I ordered my can the other day so im hopin it will be in by saturday so I can go ahead and do it. And waddaman, have you tried the route that I am going? I have seen where a lot of people that say they have done it but I have yet to have anybody tell me how well it fixed the problem. lol. I figure its got to work better than the stock setup which is why Im doing it. I rode last saturday and when I got home I noticed my oil was a little low and checked the airbox to find it full of oil.


Either way it will work. I installed mine back in 2007 and never got another hint of oil in the box sence. The only change I made a few years later was to put the discharge back to the original port on the airbox.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I have it done just like the original write up. Bottom port on bottle goes to crank case, middle goes to air box and top is capped off and I think it actually makes it worse then stock.. for me anyway.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Waddaman said:


> I have it done just like the original write up. Bottom port on bottle goes to crank case, middle goes to air box and top is capped off and I think it actually makes it worse then stock.. for me anyway.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2


Somthing's done differently then. The can would have to get half full of oil for the middle port to get any oil to it. The setup duplicates the factory install for the YFZ450 except where the upper port returns to the oil tank (the YFZ is a dry-sump system) it's capped as its not needed. The angle it sets is very important as it must collect and run in a stream back to the case...all the way. I have never got even a sign of oil in my box in 7 years now after doing it this way. 

But again, there has always been a question when there is extra vent flow from High compression BBKs. That's why we redirect the discharge to the pod, use the upper port for that discharge and increase the can's angle.


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## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm sure I'm not done with questions haha. As soon as the can gets here Ill be starting on it so now it's just a waitin game. In the meantime I'm goin to do the gas tank mod that I found on here. I have the full muzzy and it's Melting my gas tank guard pretty good.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Its installed right, its tilted back towards the engine. and everything is sealed up.

I let it sit there idling / revving refilling my rad. I took my air filter off after that to clean it and there was literally a puddle of oil in my air box under the filter.

+ I took the bottle off about 2 rides after I installed it with no deep water or anything and it was full of white oily almost curd like stuff. Doesn't work for me what so ever, maybe if I had a line going back into the rocker cover but as is it definitely doesn't work. Take in mind I pound the throttle and do a lot of wheelies.. well at least I used too.. can't even drive like an old man on flat ground without something breaking now.

Im going to sell the brute hopefully soon, if I don't and I have to take the side panels off for what ever reasons (with the way things are going I imagine I will) Im going to make pretty much a upside down soda pop bottle made of steel (or aluminum, or stainless. Have to research to see which will combat moisture and tolerate oil without corrosion or rust.) with the proper fittings and mount it in the stock rad location. If it won't be enough angle to flow back Ill mount it to the frame brace that holds the steering column.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Wow...sorry to hear that. I have checked my can a few times and its just moist with clean oil...never anything milky....and in all fairness, my rings are in such good condition, I can take my vent tube off and run it...and there is near nothing coming out. Just some smell and if you put your finger over it no pressure buildup...just some back and forth pulse as the pistons travel. Although without the can when I hit the hills it would dump oil in the box like ...well like everyone elses.


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## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

Yeah Waddaman I'm thinkin you might have somethin else up with your brute especially if your oil is milky. I went to a guy here in my town today that's notorious around here for buildin bad a** stuff and talked to him about the catch can mod. He said he's only installed a few catch cans on brutes here in town and that he's never heard of having to go back to the valve cover but he also said that he's never put one on a bbk motor so I'm just goin to play it safe and tap into it the first time. Took the side plastics off today to fab up some heat shields and I'm sure you guys know it can be a pain so I don't want to have to take it all apart again in a few weeks because I got lazy with my catch can ha. I did the heat shield mod by the gas tank and since my wife was complaining about the side burnin her leg I went ahead and made a shield for the side too. Turned out pretty nice now well just see if all the work pays off.


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## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

My catch can just got here. Bout to head to autozone and pick up the rest of the parts I need. My question is what all exactly do I need? If I'm not mistaken all I need is a bunch of fuel line, a fitting for the valve cover, and one of the small air filters right??


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## CRAZYCRACKAZ71 (Oct 8, 2011)

what u used to do ur heat shield. i needa do that on my king quad.


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## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

CRAZYCRACKAZ71 said:


> what u used to do ur heat shield. i needa do that on my king quad.


I just used some real thin sheet metal I had Layin around. Idk what gauge and then I used "cool tape" from the auto parts store to line it. Overall with both shields it took about 3 hrs but I kept havin to change it lol. There is a thread on here on doin the one near the gas tank and I just fabbed up the other one on the fly.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

903redneckchevy said:


> My catch can just got here. Bout to head to autozone and pick up the rest of the parts I need. My question is what all exactly do I need? If I'm not mistaken all I need is a bunch of fuel line, a fitting for the valve cover, and one of the small air filters right??


Yep...that's about it. I used an adaptor to go from the Kawie CrankCase vent hose to the size it needed for the catchCan but you can make that if needed. Try and get as big a hose as you can to clamp-down on the catch can and still be usable to the pod. Take the can with you. My can's seem around the outside center leaked air so I ran a beed of black RTV around it. Check yours. Just plug two ports with your fingers and blow in the other.


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## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

Ok guys. Another question. I've pretty much got my catch can done all except yappin the rear exhaust valve cover. And I want to make sure I'm tappin the right one so pls help. Ive got the battery box pulled out and from what I can tell those are the two valve covers right there underneath and I need to tap the one towards the back of the bike right? Please help lol. I know it sounds dumb but I just want to make sure I'm right before I drill anything


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

903redneckchevy said:


> Ok guys. Another question. I've pretty much got my catch can done all except yappin the rear exhaust valve cover. And I want to make sure I'm tappin the right one so pls help. Ive got the battery box pulled out and from what I can tell those are the two valve covers right there underneath and I need to tap the one towards the back of the bike right? Please help lol. I know it sounds dumb but I just want to make sure I'm right before I drill anything


 
LOL... yes, the one right above the rear exhause pipe is the exhaust valve cover. DO take it off to do this and double check that where you place it is between the two tappets and slightly toward the cam. We don't want splash to get up in the tube and we don't want any gush of oil from the can to dump straight over the valve stems & seals. Sudden temp changes are bad for valve stems...especialy as hot as exhaust valves get. And don't let the fitting patrude through much...there isn't much extra room there.


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## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

Lol ok well here goes. Wish me luck an thanks again. I'll let you know how it turns out


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

903redneckchevy said:


> Lol ok well here goes. Wish me luck an thanks again. I'll let you know how it turns out


 
lol...Good luck


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## 903redneckchevy (Sep 4, 2012)

Well I finally got it all done. Had to go back to town twice last night and got all the plastics put back on this mornin. So far so good. I haven't really ran it tho. I went and rode a few wheelies after I got it done this mornin and I don't have any leaks so it has to be doin it's job lol. Hopefully I'll get to give it a good field test next weekend. Thanks again for all the help Guys. I'm sure I'll have some more projects on it comin up soon. I cant seem to just leave stuff alone lol.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

903redneckchevy said:


> I cant seem to just leave stuff alone lol.


 
Well...you own a Brute...that's just the way it is....lol


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## battledonkey (Mar 21, 2012)

Can somebody help a Brute Noob out and tell me if the 2012 750 needs a catch can? I searched but didn't seem to find this addressed specifically and I pick my 12 up this Saturday. Thanks in advance. 

Doyle


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## 2010Bruterider (Jun 20, 2010)

If the crankcase vent goes straight to the airbox, then i would say yes. 
If you don't plan on riding long wheelies or steep hill climbs,you don't need it. But I'd do it anyway, just to be safe.


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## battledonkey (Mar 21, 2012)

Thanks, I'll have to take a look when I get a hold of it. If anyone else knows for sure please chime in.

Thanks again.


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## Stogi (Feb 24, 2010)

It's a good idea to put a catch can on a Brute. They designed the airbox with a drain tube for the oil that it pukes. IMO they should come with a catch can from the factory.

BFWDP


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## crwBrute7504x4I (Oct 26, 2011)

Instead of doing the catch can mod I talked to a friend of mine before I snorkeled my outty and he told me that mine would puke oil like a brute once I snorkeled it and said the cheapest way to remedy the problem was to buy some hose the same size as the crank case hose but like 2 feet longer and make at least three loops in the hose and zip tie it together and install it between the crank case and air box this may also work on the brutes. It's cheap and very simple


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## Stogi (Feb 24, 2010)

Tried that once. Problem is over time the oil gets trapped in the loops will not return to the motor and eventually will start blowing out the end of the hose. 

BFWDP


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

they updated the hose in the cases on the newer brutes it does alot better job and hunter works racing sells a kit that uses the same size hose thats used on the brute already and it comes with a fitting to let oil return to motor at the flywheel inspection,the small hose used on the yfz can doesnt work as good as using bigger hose.


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## bigblackbrute (Jun 3, 2009)

Just to let folks know that are in the process of building a big motor and are planning on doing a catch can u can remove the tube inside the cases and it will help out alot also. 

fatboyz customz


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