# Clutch weights ???



## Brute2469 (Feb 21, 2010)

I did search around a little but I didn't see anything on clutch weights. Before i found this site I spent the money and bought a HL extreme clutch kit. I have 30" mud lites right now, i put the pink primary and the red secondary and put the weights in that came with the kit. I do a mixture of trail riding and muding and going up and down hills. Should i leave the HL weights in or put the stock back in? And can someone explain what changing the weights does? I'm also thinking of taking the fork out KEBC would this be advised since i do ride on hills too at times?


----------



## AMR840 (Feb 15, 2010)

That's a tuff question. The HL kit I’m not familiar with. The weights are most likely set up for the springs. The red secondary is extreme for heavier tires; most recommend the almond for more top end. The pink secondary is ok but a maroon primary may be better. I would go with a almond primary (not the same as secondary) over a maroon personally because I like the higher engagement rpm. You also will get to shift out a little quicker. 
As far as the weights go I would have left the stock in. Basically I don't like kits because they are expensive and not necessarily the best option.


----------



## steeler (Feb 17, 2010)

i dont know about the weights but i took off my kebc fork and dint notice too much diff. except at low speeds when your totally off the gas it coasts a little more.


----------



## AMR840 (Feb 15, 2010)

I have my fork removed and only problem I've had is forgetting to punch throttle for engine breaking when going down steep grade while on a Arizona deer hunt. Remember to punch throttle 0-5 for engine braking to kick in. Other than that experience removing fork was no problem, you won't know its gone. I live and ride in the southwest with steep inclines. Also you will need to get a Diamond G dg-5 or 6 can't remember if you don't want the 4x4 light flashing.


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

he's just talking about removing the fork only. it wont flash if he does that. the actuator will still move just wont be doing any work.


----------



## Brute2469 (Feb 21, 2010)

Yea i was just planning on taking out the fork. Seem to be the easiest thing to do. Sometimes i do let the kids drive while i'm on the bike with them so i did have a concern about losing the engine breaking going down hills. Gotta teach them young!!

And as for the HL kit I have it came with a maroon and pink primary, a red secondary and a set of weights. I dont remember the size of the weights though. I went with the pink primary because i wanted it to engauge a little sooner. The instrucions says in engauges about 1-200 rpms sooner than the maroon. I do like the set up but i just realized how loose my belt was thanks to you guys on this web site. So I dont know how it's going to pull now that i have the belt tightened up. 

So does anyone think i should put the stock weights back in? Or does it really make any difference?


----------



## AMR840 (Feb 15, 2010)

phreebsd said:


> he's just talking about removing the fork only. it wont flash if he does that. the actuator will still move just wont be doing any work.


Your right, eventually the actuator went and did the DG-5 I think or 6. It will go eventually believe me. Anyway for those wanting to try some cut clutch's like JHmachine or (VFJ don't recommend) you are good to go. You will need 53 gram flyweights if you go with these clutches. And a stiff primary spring. Believe me I've been through it. Better off just doing a .080 overdrive cut unless you want to drag race.


----------



## duramaxlover (Mar 17, 2010)

y isnt the vfj not recomended


----------



## AMR840 (Feb 15, 2010)

It kills your low end for one. I should of said neither is recommended because both will require lighter flyweights and stiff primary spring. The best way is do the .080 overdrive cut keep the bottom end and gain 5-7 mph top end. I've been thru it believe me. If you want to drag race the JHmachine is much lighter but be prepared to buy lighter flyweights and a stiff spring.


----------



## robisra (Dec 13, 2009)

I put a red secondary and a almond primary springs into my clutch when I added the 29.5 laws. The first time out, I smoked the belt. My fault, I was running through some stuff in high gear. I called EPI and asked their tech for suggestions, and they recommended the clutch weights. I could be gullible and they want a sale, but I figure they know more about clutches than I do. Anyway, I added the 56g weights and a new belt. Someone had posted a link to a snowmobile site that had a good engineering writeup on CVT transmissions and the variables that different springs and weights affected. It is a good read, but I'm an EE, not a ME.... I'll just take EPI's word for it. I can see the next level is adding the low gear kit to really handle the big tires. PhreeBSD we're all waiting on you to make the video!!!


----------



## Brute650i (Dec 17, 2008)

I'm glad somebody else agrees with me about vfj stage 3. I would like to get one so maybe I could trail and drag with same clutch setup but for strictly trail I'd stick with an overdrive cut into cover or the .08 like amr840 was talking about. 

I have a set of epi 54g if anybody wants them. If not I'm gonna drill them so I can add some tip weight and make them some 62g and see how that works. 

Amr840 I talked to brutemankelly and he said he was running vfj stage 3 with pink and 62g weights(added to the stock weight tip) he wouldn't tell me if he had spidermod nor did he answer my question when I asked him why such heavy weights when everybody else seemed to be going lower.


----------



## Brute2469 (Feb 21, 2010)

So it sound slike the weights are good to have or at least not hurt anything. Later on when i get a big lift i plan to swap to 31" laws and I may go with a Maroon primary and a yellow secondary. Does that sound pretty good for trail riding and mudding?


----------



## Brute650i (Dec 17, 2008)

I would go red secondary and have alot better belt life than with the extra heat of the yellow


----------



## Brute2469 (Feb 21, 2010)

Well i left the weights in that came with the kit but i swapped to the maroon primary and still have the red secondary. I also removed the KEBC fork and adjusted my belt so i hope to see some good gains since my belt was so loose. Thanks for everyones help.


----------



## Bootlegger (Dec 18, 2008)

duramaxlover said:


> y isnt the vfj not recomended



Yes....I agree. If someone wants a kit. VFJ is the way to go. Either him or Quad Shop Customs.


----------



## quik660 (Jul 16, 2009)

i believe the heavier weights help grip the belt in the primary....i was told id prolly need some 56g weights to go along with my 840


----------



## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Brute2469 said:


> I did search around a little but I didn't see anything on clutch weights.


:thinking: http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4584&highlight=clutch+weights


And then:

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/search.php?searchid=219517


----------



## Brute2469 (Feb 21, 2010)

I read some of the post and couldn't find the answer i was looking for, but i got it now. Thanks!


----------

