# Frying belts need help



## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

I have fried 2 brand new 3gx belts... Chipping teeth off the top of belt and ripping cord out on the same side of both belts.(Side of the belt facing engine). I am pretty sure everything is together right clutch kit wise... My secondary is at 69 ft lbs but I don't know if their out of alignment on the primary side... What do I do to test or what?


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## Addicted2Nitro (Oct 19, 2011)

I was having the same issue but with dayco xtx belts. In my situation my primary clutch sheaves were junk, the engine side was almost flat 3/4 of the way up the sheave. I put a new primary clutch on about 500 miles ago,and have not had an issue yet.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Mine was/is doing the same thing..






See groves on sheaves? Mine was doing the exact same thing, pulled the chords out and the cooling fins went a flyin.

Had to get a good used clutch, was sent up to VFJ for stage 3/spidermod and it's currently on it's way up to me now.


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

Addicted2Nitro said:


> I was having the same issue but with dayco xtx belts. In my situation my primary clutch sheaves were junk, the engine side was almost flat 3/4 of the way up the sheave. I put a new primary clutch on about 500 miles ago,and have not had an issue yet.


I did notice that in the sheaves but i didnt think it was too bad.. I will look again in the morning...The factory belt was in great condition with 140 hours on it..I just changed it so it wouldn't do this lol... Should I put it back on an see if it does it to that one?


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## wolf_36 (Jul 7, 2010)

I broke 3 belts in one day about a year ago . But don't remember what brand they were , The first one that broke was on the bike when I got it , the other two I bought at Boggs and boulders (well bought one, when it broke they let me exchange it thinking it may have been defective ) last one I bought was an OEM Belt from kawi and it still looks brand new , so I think sometimes it's just the belt


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Only belts that are any good that I know of are Dayco XTX and brute oem, or teryx oem. Id give your stocker a shot again.


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

OEM belts are the best in my opinion brute or teryx 

Sent from my C771


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## wolf_36 (Jul 7, 2010)

After my 3 belt day I wont trust anything BUT OEM , No fun changing belts when everyone else is riding


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

stock belts only,I havent had a aftermarket one last yet they all crap out!put the stocker back on check to make sure it is set correct and you should be fine


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## duckincrazy92 (May 24, 2011)

I've done pretty good with the 3gx so far I got around a months use out of it and still pulling good


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

duckincrazy92 said:


> I've done pretty good with the 3gx so far I got around a months use out of it and still pulling good


I really like the 3gx but I've just got to try my factory and see if it fries... I'm frying my 3gx belts in about 2 hours


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

Waddaman said:


> Only belts that are any good that I know of are Dayco XTX and brute oem, or teryx oem. Id give your stocker a shot again.


So I went out and looked at the sheaves and got both clutches pulled.. Grooves aren't bad so I put it all back together with new belt... Did my best to check belts deflection. I kept getting around 1/2 inch... Isn't it supposed to be around 1 inch... I placed another shim in secondary and it's right about 1 inch... Did I have it too tight


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## Addicted2Nitro (Oct 19, 2011)

What is your clutching?


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

Addicted2Nitro said:


> What is your clutching?


Higlifter kit standard kit... It's a off white/almond secondary with a sparkly gold primary... I just watched a video on YouTube and by the video I had the secondary mis aligned.. The video said I needed to align the front mark with the 0 on the back and it wasn't when I pulled it... I really hope the deflection and that secondary was causing the belts to wear out


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## Rack High (Feb 23, 2010)

It's almost impossible to beat the OEM belts. I've tried all of the so called "super belts
" and nothing holds up like the Kawi belt. Just make sure there's no old belt residue on the sheaves.


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## Shrek (Oct 4, 2011)

If u can spray some Carb cleaner on the sheaves and wipe them down good. As for cleaning any residue, that stuff will do the trick.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Could you link the video that told you about the secondary misallignment? Im looking through the manual now and you are supposed to line them up.. Why? only reason I can think of is balancing. Another big question here is why have I never heard of this either?!?

Edit: The manual says "for phase fit" does that just mean so the holes for the rollers are lined up in there grooves?


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Oakley5343 said:


> So I went out and looked at the sheaves and got both clutches pulled.. Grooves aren't bad so I put it all back together with new belt... Did my best to check belts deflection. I kept getting around 1/2 inch... Isn't it supposed to be around 1 inch... I placed another shim in secondary and it's right about 1 inch... Did I have it too tight


Man there is no choise...no guessing...it _has_ to be between 22 and 27mms..not inches. 22-23mm is the best. And what secondary spring are you running again? 

Get yourself what you need to measure the deflection correctly. Its a must on a Brute. I use this.


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

nmkawierider said:


> Man there is no choise...no guessing...it _has_ to be between 22 and 27mms..not inches. 22-23mm is the best. And what secondary spring are you running again?
> 
> Get yourself what you need to measure the deflection correctly. Its a must on a Brute. I use this.


Thanks.. I will try this tomorrow... I have the epi kit from Highlifter with the Almond/white secondary


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

Waddaman said:


> Could you link the video that told you about the secondary misallignment? Im looking through the manual now and you are supposed to line them up.. Why? only reason I can think of is balancing. Another big question here is why have I never heard of this either?!?
> 
> Edit: The manual says "for phase fit" does that just mean so the holes for the rollers are lined up in there grooves?


I will link it when I get on my computer... But all he mentions is that the rectangle box on front must line up with 0 on the back.. I played with it when the spring was off and both boxes on front and back will line up when you hold the sheaves all the way apart...


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## walker (Apr 5, 2009)

i would upgrade to a lime green secondary with 30's just me and keep your almond primary..


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Oakley5343 said:


> Thanks.. I will try this tomorrow... I have the epi kit from Highlifter with the Almond/white secondary


Almond secondary with 30" tires??? There's your problem! You need at least a RED secondary. You might also consider dropping the stall back a bit with a pink,maroon or almond primary. High RPM engagement is fun but hell on belts.


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

nmkawierider said:


> Almond secondary with 30" tires??? There's your problem! You need at least a RED secondary. You might also consider dropping the stall back a bit with a pink,maroon or almond primary. High RPM engagement is fun but hell on belts.


I sure hope that's it... Fried 3 belts so far including factory.. I ordered everything from high lifter.. So ill call him about the springs..The primary is sparkly gold and secondary is off white color... Just in case I'm saying it wrong in other post... Yea it's got a hell of a stall... I hope the new springs work. I was about to order new primary and secondary and start all over... Lol


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Oakley5343 said:


> I sure hope that's it... Fried 3 belts so far including factory.. I ordered everything from high lifter.. So ill call him about the springs..The primary is sparkly gold and secondary is off white color... Just in case I'm saying it wrong in other post... Yea it's got a hell of a stall... I hope the new springs work. I was about to order new primary and secondary and start all over... Lol


Whoever put that kit together should be FIRED!!


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## CTBruterider (Jul 23, 2010)

nmkawierider said:


> Whoever put that kit together should be FIRED!!


 
:bigeyes: yeah no kidding!


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

nmkawierider said:


> Whoever put that kit together should be FIRED!!


He has always done me right at highlifter. And anything hes said has been right on the money. On the springs it might have just been a mix up because i also have 28" silverbacks. im about to post pics of my primary sheaves. They may turn out to be worse then i thought. Even if the clutching is off I shouldnt have burnt 3 belts up in under 10 hours right? Only the engine side of the belt is coming apart. The belt looks like something is grabbing the cord and in turn ripping the top cooloing fins off on half of the belt.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Exactly the same thing that's happening to my belts (Stage 3 in this week hopefully?) Engine side, it'd pull the chords out and pull every cooling fin off.


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

Waddaman said:


> Exactly the same thing that's happening to my belts (Stage 3 in this week hopefully?) Engine side, it'd pull the chords out and pull every cooling fin off.


 

Just got the chance to watch your video on the computer. here are pics of mine but after watching your video im pretty sure mine are bad lol...


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

Waddaman said:


> Could you link the video that told you about the secondary misallignment? Im looking through the manual now and you are supposed to line them up.. Why? only reason I can think of is balancing. Another big question here is why have I never heard of this either?!?
> 
> Edit: The manual says "for phase fit" does that just mean so the holes for the rollers are lined up in there grooves?


sorry i forgot about the link for this. Guy also has a good idea for spring compressor.. lol


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Looks like your going to need some machining on those clutches to fix your belt problem.

And in the video to me I think the marks he lines up is just to make it so the roller hole/seats are lined up in guide/groove which makes it easier to go back together. I don't think it changes anything.


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

Waddaman said:


> Looks like your going to need some machining on those clutches to fix your belt problem.
> 
> And in the video to me I think the marks he lines up is just to make it so the roller hole/seats are lined up in guide/groove which makes it easier to go back together. I don't think it changes anything.


 
I think im going to buy new primary and maybe secondary and install the correct clutch kit and then take it to the dealer and let them set the deflection and torque.. gonna cost a pretty pennie but at least i KNOW its done right... good idea?


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Yep..gone.. That's what happens with too strong a primary spring and too weak a secondary spring. That will need a VFJ machining or replaced.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

for a brand new primary and secondary your looking at we'll over $1000. It's not hard to work on these you just need to read up and understand them first. 

I bought a second hand primary in really good shape for $225, had it sent to Vforcejohn($25 shipping) for stage3 w/spidermod and pri and sec springs for $410 shipped to my door. It's on it's way as we speak.

Get ahold of Vforcejohn and ask him the questions you need to know. Get stage 3 machining and it will get rid of that groove (Depending on depth you'd have to ask him but id imagine he'd be able to do it regardless) As far as torquing the primary on all you need is a torque wrench and do exactly what was said in the vid you posted. hold the primary with a crowbar or something and turn the torque wrench until it clicks and your done.

As far as the secondary goes there shouldn't be anything wrong with it unless it's grooved too. Very easy to take apart as well, take the spring off, remove the 4 rollers inside and it's completely apart. As far as shimming the belt read this:http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/65-clutching/18-tightening-belt-belt-light-reset.html

These clutches are pretty basic and easy to work on, don't be afraid of em. And if you have troubles were always here to help.


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

Waddaman said:


> for a brand new primary and secondary your looking at we'll over $1000. It's not hard to work on these you just need to read up and understand them first.
> 
> I bought a second hand primary in really good shape for $225, had it sent to Vforcejohn($25 shipping) for stage3 w/spidermod and pri and sec springs for $410 shipped to my door. It's on it's way as we speak.
> 
> ...




Beat me with to it... Answered my question before I even asked it... Ok so how do I go about contacting vfj


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Ill PM you the info.


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## Oakley5343 (Jun 13, 2012)

Thanks really appreciate it


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