# 2wd/4wd flashing ebc problems?



## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

I have an 07 BF. The 2wd/4wd are flashing in 1sec intervals. Here's what happens...if I drop to 0mph, the engine stalls. So when I restart atv it idles fine in neutral. I have to move into high gear and immediately hit the gas or it stalls.
Now when I turn the key off there's no buzzing which I know is ebc not working right. Now if I pull the fuses it resets and lights dont flash and EBC buzzes when turned off. 
I rode a month ago this happened thought doing this method fixed it. Rode today about 5 miles in, it started again. I rode for another 10-15 min with lights alternating it didn't stall when 0mph, but after 10-15 min it did stall. 
Sounds like ebc is ok if it works when it is reset. Can somebody please help me. This is irritating me. Thanks guys for any help you can offer.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

One second flashing each means the engine brake actuator is gaving a problem. And the only way it can stall at idle is if the fork is still engaging the primary to the belt. So, its not rotating out below 2mph. Time to service it or gut it by taking the fork out...which may not stop the flashing, but at least it won't stall anymore.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Is taking out the fork a project for a newbie? I have some mechanical skills and can do work in cars but never tried on an atv. 


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.351638,-81.734274


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Also...at idle the atv runs fine it's when I go to put it in gear is when it stalls. 


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.351872,-81.733953


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Mikec280 said:


> Also...at idle the atv runs fine it's when I go to put it in gear is when it stalls.
> 
> 
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> I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.351872,-81.733953


 
Of course. Its partly engaged. Once you see how it operates. you will understand.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Should I try to take apart the brake actuator and grease it and clean it up? It seems to work fine for a little bit so that makes me wonder if anythings wrong, maybe bad connection. I've been riding through alot of water lately. 


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.351669,-81.734371


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Mikec280 said:


> Should I try to take apart the brake actuator and grease it and clean it up? It seems to work fine for a little bit so that makes me wonder if anythings wrong, maybe bad connection. I've been riding through alot of water lately.


Yes. Take it apart, clean and service it. But also pull the cover and see if anything's up with the fork, spring and pivets. If you still have an issue, the potemeter is failing. I don't know if you can just replace it without replacing the complete actuator.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Forgive me for sounding stupid cause I'm new to the atv scene, but where exactly are the forks,springs, and pivets located? In the cover below what the actuator sits on top of? 


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.351405,-81.734444


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Mikec280 said:


> Forgive me for sounding stupid cause I'm new to the atv scene, but where exactly are the forks,springs, and pivets located? In the cover below what the actuator sits on top of?
> 
> 
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> I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.351405,-81.734444


 
Man you realy need a manual. Under the belt cover. Its what the actuator actualy moves.

And why is this "I am here" not in your signature line? Not sure you realy need it.


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## bennapa55 (Oct 15, 2010)

Mikec280 said:


> Forgive me for sounding stupid cause I'm new to the atv scene, but where exactly are the forks,springs, and pivets located? In the cover below what the actuator sits on top of?
> 
> 
> ---
> I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.351405,-81.734444


 they are under actuator, it is right there when you remove the belt cover cant miss it.


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

I seem to remember guys in here saying the switch directly under the CVT cover having dirty connections doing this as well.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

So the cover under the brake actuator? Just clean the connections and try again? I'm gonna start on it tonight after work


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

I did an ohms test on the brake actuator and the 4/6 pins will not read at all but the other pins that are listed in the service manual test out fine. So could it still be the switch under cvt cover or am I screwed and need a new break actuator?


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Mikec280 said:


> I did an ohms test on the brake actuator and the 4/6 pins will not read at all but the other pins that are listed in the service manual test out fine. So could it still be the switch under cvt cover or am I screwed and need a new break actuator?


Check the motor's magnets. Might have a loose one. Easy check.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Ok so if the magnets are loose then use what to fix it? I'm learning as I go sorry


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Mikec280 said:


> Ok so if the magnets are loose then use what to fix it? I'm learning as I go sorry


About any good epoxy but they have to be in the exact right place and seated squarely in the housing. Take your time.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Well I checked the magnets they were not loose. The inside of the actuator was clean as it could be. So I guess after work I'll check the under the cvt cover. But since the black and red wires have no ohms reading, should I assume the actuator needs replaced or could something else faulty make it read this way?


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

Mikec280 said:


> Well I checked the magnets they were not loose. The inside of the actuator was clean as it could be. So I guess after work I'll check the under the cvt cover. But since the black and red wires have no ohms reading, should I assume the actuator needs replaced or could something else faulty make it read this way?


The manual says 3-15 ohms between pin4 (red) and pin6 (black), anything else should replace. Now all other measurements listed much higher resistance so make darn sure your meter is reading the correct range on 4 to 6.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Yeah 4 and 6 are measuring a flat zero  . But I dint understand why it works for about 5 miles and then acts up.


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

Yeah I'm not sure why that is unless there is a bad connection between the connector end and the unit. You might want to look at that as well, could be a bad connection there too.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Ok I will check that when I get home. I'm trying to avoid buying an actuator if I don't have to. If this doesn't work, I'm giving up. This is frustrating


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

Yeah I hear ya on not buying anything unless You have to. You might try to pick one up on here or E-bay used if you can and if you have to. Persistance always wins out over frustration.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

I just want to clarify something. Can there be more than just a bad brake actuator that can cause the lights to flash? I don't wanna buy a new one and then that not be the problem. And I alsodont wanna waste $ taking it to a dealer just for them to tell me it needs a new KEBC. I'm at a crossroads on this. It's killing me :/


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

Which service manual do you have? It has 3 different flash patterns in that section. light on .5 sec/off .5 sec. , on 1 sec/off 1 sec , and on 2 sec/off 2sec. There are things to check in all of them.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

I have the factory service manual for an 07 BF 650. I'm gonna try the tests in the book, check the actuator connectors, and check under the cvt cover for debris. I'm gonna do this after work tonight so I'll let u know how that turns out.


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

Cool yeah let me know also check your speed sensor connections as well. If you go through the things to check you should be able to zero in on it! Good Luck!


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

U don't have a picture of the controls under the seat out if the manual for a 650 do u? I looked and I have the online 750 BF manual which under the seat looks different. I just needy know which busses are which.


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

I don't sorry, all I have is the 750 as well. However they are both available to download here the i and the sra.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Well i got some things done tonight. I did the tests in the manual, everything seemed ok. A couple of the tests was inconclusive because I'm new to using a voltage meter(I hate to admit) but for sure the speed sensor was ok. I took apart the actuator and cleaned it out etc like the video floating on here said to do. 
I live in the city, so im thinking about running the atv tomorrow on blocks and see if I can get it to act up. Then I'd know if I fixed the problem or not. Only thing I can think of...besides buying a new part lol.


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

The metal piece on the actuator that goes down into the cvt cover was a little rusted so I sanded it off w my drimel.


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

Could very well be the rust was causing it to hang up. Might want to put some kind of lube on it to keep it from doing it again. If your electrical tests turned out ok then it points towards something mechanical ( maybe the rust ). Anyway using the meter gets easier with time and, still saved some money you would have given to the dealership!


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Ok I'm almost certain I've found the problem. It's the orange wire on the brake actuator plug. There is no reading on it. 

Orange - (+) 5V signal going into potentiometer of the KEBC.

So can I fix this or do I have to buy a new actuator? Didn't know if I can just buy the plug or not


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## Mikec280 (Aug 16, 2011)

Well I retract that last post. Now the orange i get a reading. I'm done with it I obviously don't know what I'm doing. My options are either have someone look at it or buy a new actuator. I just worry if I do that and it's not the problem then what. At this point I'd rather sell it and forget about it. :/


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