# catch can



## 30backs (Feb 23, 2009)

is this mod absolutly needed any other options besides yzf 450 catch can


----------



## Yesterday (Jan 2, 2009)

there's a certain John deere piece that will work too. lemme look for it


----------



## rhettag94 (Apr 9, 2009)

Run a piece of 5/8 heater hose up to the pod with a pcv valve. Only disadvantage is you will smell oil fumes when you are sitting still. Otherwise it works great. Go to Nyrocatv and there is a write up on how to do it.


----------



## kawa650 (Dec 19, 2008)

You dont have to run a catch can, just run the line to the pod like stated above

Mine didnt get oil in airbox until after I snorkeled it:thinking:

But if you dont want to smell oil, have it puck out under the pod and/or waste oil (which wont be alot) then put a catch can on. Not hard to do, you can even make your own!!!


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

If your looking for a different mod that involves a catch can try the *Crankcase Vent* mod in the how-to's. 

I feel that the yzf catch can mod is not sufficient. A) The catch can has non filtered air going to the engine (not hard to fix), B) it does not fix the oil burping out of the vent. Yes its catching it and drains the oil back but as its doing that the engine is not breathing correctly. However that's not saying my crankcase vent mod dose not have flaws. It has its own draw backs to. 
Metal Man Is currently in the process of a cross of all 3 crankcase vent mods. I think it'll be a good set up when its done.


----------



## Muddy Brute Force (Dec 17, 2008)

Over on Highlifter devildog has done a catch can mod write up that he made with a air filter and seems to work well. I think that the total cost of materials he used was alot cheaper than using the yfz catch can. It will be interesting to see what Metal Man comes up with. I personally, am not into doing wheelies with my bike, but however do like to do the Wide Open throttle runs, so the catch can mod is next to do on my list.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

Muddy Brute Force said:


> Over on Highlifter devildog has done a catch can mod write up that he made with a air filter and seems to work well. I think that the total cost of materials he used was alot cheaper than using the yfz catch can. It will be interesting to see what Metal Man comes up with. I personally, am not into doing wheelies with my bike, but however do like to do the Wide Open throttle runs, so the catch can mod is next to do on my list.


i can promise you its not alot cheaper than the yzf catch can. i priced it all out at lowes. 

as far as filtering the air goin back into the airbox. the factory crank case vent does not do this, so why does the catch can need to? if you want, you can put a piece of foam in the end of the line where it goes into the airbox. or you could move the location of the vent to be on the outside of the filter, instead of the inside. 

im not sayin there arent better options, im just sayin it does work.


----------



## Troya (Feb 23, 2009)

> Over on Highlifter devildog has done a catch can mod write up that he made with a air filter and seems to work well. I think that the total cost of materials he used was alot cheaper than using the yfz catch can. It will be interesting to see what Metal Man comes up with. I personally, am not into doing wheelies with my bike, but however do like to do the Wide Open throttle runs, so the catch can mod is next to do on my list.


So running wide open throttle causes oil to burp into the airbox also? That may explain it for me. I don't ride wheelies, or many hills, but after every ride I find oil.


----------



## rhettag94 (Apr 9, 2009)

5ft of 5/8 heater hose, a splice connector, and a pcv valve or some type of crankcase breather. Pull the crankcase hose off the bottom of your air box. Join it to the heater hose with the splice connector. Run it towards your steering stem then down towards the front diff. Now run it back up to your pod. This will make a dip for the oil to settle in. Put a pcv valve on the end. I spent under 10 bucks at AutoZone. Remember to plug the hole in the bottom of the airbox. I eventually put splice connector at the bottom of the dip in the hose, so I could pull it apart and drain any oil that accumulates. Very easy mod. It took me more time to plug the hole in the airbox than to run the lines.


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

bump530 said:


> i can promise you its not alot cheaper than the yzf catch can. i priced it all out at lowes.
> 
> as far as filtering the air goin back into the airbox. the factory crank case vent does not do this, so why does the catch can need to? if you want, you can put a piece of foam in the end of the line where it goes into the airbox. or you could move the location of the vent to be on the outside of the filter, instead of the inside.
> 
> im not sayin there arent better options, im just sayin it does work.


i also feel the homemade one does not do the job properly unless oriented in a vertical position and the crankcase is run to the side vent..
the design of the catch can (the yamaha one) allows air an oil to be pit into the can and fall to the drain below. there for it must be oreinted properly for this to work well. the one i see are not mounted properly. the only way a pvc one will work proper is mounted straight up and down.

Also the way the vent is run on stock bike i would think there would be a serious vacuum pulling on it from the air rushing into the intakes. In fact, im sure this is the reason oil is "puked" into the airbox on WOT runs. It's not puked but sucked!


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

phreebsd said:


> i also feel the homemade one does not do the job properly.
> the design of the catch can (the yamaha one) allows air an oil to be pit into the can and fall to the drain below. there for it must be oreinted properly for this to work well. the one i see are not mounted properly. the only way a pvc one will work proper is mounted straight up and down.
> 
> Also the way the vent is run on stock bike i would think there would be a serious vacuum pulling on it from the air rushing into the intakes. In fact, im sure this is the reason oil is "puked" into the airbox on WOT runs. It's not puked but sucked!


with that being said, i think all should buy a YFZ can from me . lol. 

i dont think i would go with the "looping" idea to trap the oil. the hole purpose is to keep or get the oil back in the bike so it doesnt run low and spin a rod bearing.


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

i will get one from you when i can spare a measly 15 bucks


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

aight just let me know. 

im still tryin to convince myself to buy a holeshot module. i just talked to dynatek and they said a CDI is anywhere from 3-12 months out. and im thinkin more of 12 lol.


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

bump530 said:


> as far as filtering the air goin back into the airbox. the factory crank case vent does not do this, so why does the catch can need to? if you want, you can put a piece of foam in the end of the line where it goes into the airbox. or you could move the location of the vent to be on the outside of the filter, instead of the inside.
> 
> im not sayin there arent better options, im just sayin it does work.


I think if your going to do this at lest put the hose coming out of the YFZ can and put it back to where the stock hose went into the air box. that way you don't need to plug a hole on the box and then it will be filtered.

And yes its filtered 









Also Phreebsd if you T the valve cover hoses together in my vent mod you then can then run the stock vent hose to the can I made and solve your thought proses. The sucking thing is possible to. But I did not have a worse problem after I did mine and under that theory it should of made mine worse.


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

well we will see what metalman comes up with


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

FABMAN said:


> I think if your going to do this at lest put the hose coming out of the YFZ can and put it back to where the stock hose went into the air box. that way you don't need to plug a hole on the box and then it will be filtered.
> 
> And yes its filtered
> 
> ...


how is it filtered? an open hole coming up inside of the filter in the airbox does not make it filtered. my bike had a peice of foam stuck in the hole, but that was done (i think) by the guy that rebuilt the bike tryin to stop the oil after adding HC pistons.


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

That hole is on the clean side of the air filter. The large oval is where the air filter seals.


----------



## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

bump530 said:


> i dont think i would go with the "looping" idea to trap the oil. the hole purpose is to keep or get the oil back in the bike so it doesnt run low and spin a rod bearing.


:agreed: %100


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

this is another good example thread of people sharing ideas that are different all in hopes to fix a common problem. Kudos for the courtesy you all have shown one another. I see you all, including me, disagreeing and trying to see the others' viewpoints and ideas.
cool 

I know you all are thiking, "WTF" and "Why is he typing this?" haha 
You just dont see these types of threads often.
Go MudInMyBlood


----------



## Kurly (Feb 25, 2009)

phreebsd said:


> this is another good example thread of people sharing ideas that are different all in hopes to fix a common problem. Kudos for the courtesy you all have shown one another. I see you all, including me, disagreeing and trying to see the others' viewpoints and ideas.
> cool
> 
> I know you all are thiking, "WTF" and "Why is he typing this?" haha
> ...


 
I agree. Im in the process of researching this to do on mine.....due to WHEELIES _*accidentally*_ occuring often or as much as possible:rockn:.
This is definately helping me to decide which is the best route for me and my style of riding. *Thanks to all*


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

FABMAN said:


> That hole is on the clean side of the air filter. The large oval is where the air filter seals.


i understand that. but why do u say the YFZ puts unfiltered air into the engine? if i run the vent off my can back into the original location on the airbox, isnt that doin the same thing? some ppl chose to put a filter on the vent of the catch can instead of tieing it back into the airbox, does this not filter the air also?


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

This how-to has the hose going to the nonfiltered side of the air box.
this is also the yfz mod I was speaking about not being sufficient in my first post in this thread. 







How To Install YFZ450 Catch Can Mod( write up by BF Freak) 

If your running the hose back to the stock hole in the box your fine. But I feel its not letting the engine breath right if you don't put another breather hole or 2 in somewhere like the valve covers. Its like gargling mouthwash you cant breath. But if you put a hole somewhere else the oil that is trying to drain back freely can because you relieved the perisher somewhere else.


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Alright, I came up with a new (I think) idea yesterday that I'll share. I haven't tried it yet but let me know what yall think.

First run a hose from the crankcase to the lower valve cover on the rear head.
Second run a hose from the upper valve cover on the rear head to the lower valve cover on the front head.
Next run a hose from the upper valve cover on the front head to the stock location in the airbox. 

This should allow any oil puked up to flow directly into the head and should stop the oil from being sucked up like in a straw. The hose tieing from one head to another will equalize any pressure being added to the rear head and should be able to breathe properly.:thinking:


----------



## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

I got all my stuff to do the mod now. ( Thanks Fabman)

I will most likely be doing it this weekend. I plan to do it close to the way most have done in the past. I'll be hooking the factory crank case line to the center connector on the YFZ box. Then run the return line from the bottom connector of the YFZ box back to the valve cover on the rear head. I will use the top connector of the YFZ box as my vent line.

For the vent i'm a little undecided. Not sure if the pod or stock location is better.

The pros of running it to the pod with a filter are that it will vent the crank case gases to the out side and the possibility of ever getting oil in my air box from the vent line is gone.

The cons of running it to the pod are that the pod is lower then my snorkels so the possibility of water entering the engine is there and i will smell the crank gases from time to time.


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

Well that's not what I thought you were going to do but let us know how it gos. I dont see way that wont work. You may have to cut that tube down to get it to drain right on the part I sent you back.


----------



## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

What did you have in mind Fabman? I'm open to ideas.I'm all ears.

To tell the truth i don't have a oil puking problem really as of now. I did when it was stock but since I've blocked off the hole in the air box and extended the crank line to the pod i have yet to see any oil up that far. Heck my oil line is clear and i don't ever see any oil residue in it at all.

The biggest reasons i'm doing the catch can is...
#1 for future mods. With the addition of high compression piston the oil puking problems seams to get worse.
# 2 is to try and improve ventilation. With the addition of the extra drain hose back to the valve cover that gives me two vent lines. The chances of both being blocked at the same time with oil should be unlikely. Am i looking at this right?


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

i need to research and see what the crankcase environment should be - is there a vacuum or is it blowing out. I would have to think vacuum with the line run to the airbox.

I do know when you pull the dip stick oil flies out like a mofo!
i think the motion of air is in and out with each raising and lowering of the piston.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

im not sure if anyone has ever seen the inside of the yfz can before, but its kinda of interesting. here is what i found last night.


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Phreeb here's a link to the pics from the engine rebuild thread.

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/showthread.php?t=743&highlight=rebuild

It has some decent pics of the crankcase and where the vent is ran inside. I wish I would have looked at it more now when I had it open. But I thought these pics might help your thought process. I know I've been staring at them for quite a few minutes. I need some more coffee.


----------



## Metal Man (Dec 17, 2008)

Thanks for the pics Bump. There more going on in there then i originally thought.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

me too. i thought the thing was hollow. i was just takin it apart in an attempt to seal it up. i dont think they are sealed very well for the amount of pressure. i will be glueing this one together and reinstalling it. the PVC Tee i installed didnt do the trick. the high compression pistons like to push a lil more oil out than normal


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

I'm doing some thinking out loud here.

Looking at these pics of the crankcase, is the motor actually building enough pressure to push oil all the way up the line or is it just raising the level of the oil to the bottom of the tube (also wheelie puts it in the bottom of the tube) and then the carbs are sucking the oil up the tube like a straw. I think its the latter of the two.

I don't like this setup, because you're feeding hot air to your engine but we do ride deep water and its safer than vented under the pod. But if I take water over my pod I'll probably take water in my carb vents and kill my bike under water anyways.

Maybe Kawasaki wanted the suction on the vent tube to help pull hot air out of the crank case. If anyone reads this that has their vent ran in the pod, did you notice your bike running any hotter, fan coming on more? We could tie the vent into the belt snorkle and it would assist in removing hot air from the crankcase.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

well there is only one way to find out what happens to the oil. disconnect the hose from the airbox (plug the airbox off), and run a line up to the handlebars or something. then make some WOT passes in the field and ride some wheelies. if the crank case is pushing the oil out, it would come out then.

wouldnt hookin the vent into the belt exhaust snorkel be the same thing as having inside the airbox? (as far as suction goes)


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Lets try it on yours also. Mine may not be pulling as much vacuum anymore with the 2nd airbox snorkle.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

yeah ill try it on mine when i take the PVC can off. ill just plug the airbox and vavle cover off and go make a few passes.

but i promise ya the crankcase has some pressure on it. with my airbox lid off and filter out, there was a good bit of pressure coming out of the vent in the aribox.


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Yea but I think that if you run the tube all the way to the pod than the oil and air will naturally seperate and the oil will drain down and the crankcase will breathe. The hose is too long for the air to stay under the oil and keep pushing it.

Also don't forget hot air reduces hp. This vent tube may not reduce it much but we spend alot of money trying to pick up 1 hp here and 2 hp there.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

yeah i know hot air reduces, but i would rather have my vent inside my airbox. ur more likely to get water in your oil with the vent outside the airbox. clark is living proof lmfao


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

Now that i think about it, when i took off the airbox lid and filter i put my finger over the hole from the vent tube it was blowing. if that's the case wheres the entry point for the air to begin with. 
Dangit. when i get home im taking a look. 
i have to know positively is it sucking or blowing. 

i was lookin at yer pics Head..
whre does that vent run? into that black tube there?


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Ha when I was looking at it this morning I didn't even think about it being solid from that black tube over to the where the vent line is coming down. It may be, but I'm not sure what it does there. I wish I had one open to look at right now, as long as it aint mine.


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

I suspect that chamber is a "Separation area" to give the oil a way to fall from the air and not be sucked up with it.


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Here's the pic from the manual of the engine lubrication system. It doesn't give us much on that chamber.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

phreebsd said:


> I suspect that chamber is a "Separation area" to give the oil a way to fall from the air and not be sucked up with it.


it does a great job of that too huh? lmfao. thereis also a screen down at the bottom side of that black tube if im not mistaken. wish i had take more pics now lol.

but i know that vent is def blowing. now im not sayin that there isnt a suction of some sort created at times but there vent is def blowing. 

my cousins had the crank case vent on his can-am ran to the outside of the pod to one of those filters. an oil would alway "seep" out of it. he was told by the ppl that did it that it wouldnt allow water in when the motor was running. i can beleive that becuase there is alot of pressure coming out. but when it wasnt running (say when you roll the bike on its side and kill it before the snorkels go under) then that is a straight shot for water to get in the oil. as this was proven when both he and HeadC1 rolled their bikes in a pond at the same time. the brute had no water in the oil, and the canam did. IIRC, the brute actually rolled over more than the can-am.


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

Metal Man said:


> What did you have in mind Fabman? I'm open to ideas.I'm all ears.


No try it your way. That yfz box should handle it that way. It will be a shorter return for the oil that way.

WOW I'm overwhelmed with info now! Ill have to ponder on this now.


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

we need to fix it for good


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

ok i have checked it and have made some interesting observations.
When the bike is idling air seems to be blowing out quite a bit. under closer look it is puff, suck, puff, suck, puff, suck, puff, suck, and so on..
when you rev the bike it sucks air into the vent. all blowing at that point ceased.
i was revving about 1/2 throttle. i didnt not check to see what happens at higher throttle position like 3/4.

i should have revved the bike up high but i dont like revving it real high with no load on the engine. kinda wonder how oil pukes up when i saw suction?
unless the airbox suction overcomes that one and sucks it out.


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

Well that's the thing when you let off the throttle it should blow out, and this is when we see oil puking out the most. Like letting off the throttle during a wheelie then it smokes. not before or at least from what iv seen.
and at this critical point of it puking there is a momentary high pressure in the crank case as the engines oil is in the hose. Until the hose is clear of oil the crank case can not breath. This is way just moving the hose to the pod or putting a catch can in dose nothing but helps keep your oil level full and that's all at best. and also may be way we are having oil seal problems. The presher has to go somewhere! now the thing is to find a way to add at least 1 if not 2 more vents that we all can do at a reasonable cost that is safe, reliable, and not to hard to do.


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Valve cover vents, most engines are vented from the valve covers. This will also vent the crankcase.


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Though I'm not convinced it has anything to do with the seals. It might but I would think that it would actually blow out the seals if the pressure was that high.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

well i think that Head's idea of vent the heads together might work after reading that. i still might change it up tho and still utilize the catch can and add another vent. what about this idea? sorry for the crude drawing, i just threw it together lmfao


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Fabman, what are your thoughts on this:



HeadC1 said:


> First run a hose from the crankcase to the lower valve cover on the rear head.
> Second run a hose from the upper valve cover on the rear head to the lower valve cover on the front head.
> Next run a hose from the upper valve cover on the front head to the stock location in the airbox.
> 
> This should allow any oil puked up to flow directly into the head and should stop the oil from being sucked up like in a straw. The hose tieing from one head to another will equalize any pressure being added to the rear head and should be able to breathe properly.:thinking:


This could also be done by one hose from crankcase to valve cover and one hose from vavle cover to airbox. These 2 setups are basically using the head as the catch can.

One other thought. If the pressure is not causing the seals to leak and we release too much pressure, is there a chance that water can come in a bad seal during low pressure times?


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

i think we would have to take ALOT of pressure out for it to allow a seal to leak in water


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

bump530 said:


> i think we would have to take ALOT of pressure out for it to allow a seal to leak in water


Water gets in a diff easy. Just wanted everyone to think about that. Also water can come in a pull start with a bad seal.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

yeah, but i think we will be alright. now u got me paranoid tho lmfao


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Here's a pic of my idea. I think I'll try it before we ride next weekend. I decided to go to the front cylinder first from the crankcase, may be additional help during wheelies.


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

I don't think tying all the inspection plats together will help any more then just the intake's. Not to menchin there's a lot of oil flying around at the rocker arms. see all the dark spots in this pic around the inspection plats its oil from me starting it up briefly.









This is the mod I did. Crankcase Vent. I think I would do now is tiy the 2 inspection plats together then to the catch can as a return and put the crank case hose to the other port on the can then run the breather hose to the pod or to the bottom of the air cleaner. (tore on this as well) and there is no reason you cant use the yfz can instead of mine as log as its orientated right to drain. nor dose it have to be up where I put mine it could be beside the air box.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

thats what i was afraid of. thats alot of oil for a brief second. my concern on the YFZ can is the size of the vent. the inlet and outlet for oil is approximately 1/2". the vent is 3/8". the actual crank case vent is 5/8". im sure that causes more pressure, but it seems to work just fine on other bikes. thats the reason i went to a PVC can, so i could use all 5/8". now i puked up ALOT of oil into my airbox with that set up.


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

Well it was more like half a minute and a crack the throttle once or twice. I did it to gage how much crap will fly out of it. 
There are other places to put breathers in but its more involved. Everyone can pull off the inspection plats. But it would be better if you had a vent between the inspection plats on the valve cover. There is less oil flying around there then at the tips of the rocker arms (under theory). Not to mention you have to pull the valve cover off not just the inspection plats and the front valve cover is harder then the back because you need to pull a engine mount off to drop the engine down to get clearance (so the book reads). There is also are 2 other spots that I think would be the best spots but there on the jugs!! Yep I'm not doing that till I have a darn good reason to!! But I'm speaking of the unused un drilled chain tensioner ports.


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

bump530 said:


> i think we would have to take ALOT of pressure out for it to allow a seal to leak in water


remember it's in a vaccuum when on the throttle. that could be enough to pull water in thru a badly leaking seal.
also remember the deeper you go the higher the pressure exerted from the water will be. (think pool, not bad in 2 feet in shallow end but go deeper the presssure hurts your ears)

I found this neat calculator. look at the pressures at a given depth:
1 foot = 15.1295 psi
2 foot = 15.563 psi
3 foot = 15.9965
4 foot = 16.4301
5 foot = 16.8636


----------



## drtj (May 3, 2009)

Polaris425 said:


> :agreed: %100


what if you puked it a few times to get oil in your lines and then filled the oil to the correct lvl would that be ok? That way if you ever rolled your bike the loops would prevent water from going into the cc


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

that sounds like it would not vent at all


----------



## drtj (May 3, 2009)

what if you was to do this?


----------



## drtj (May 3, 2009)

dont make fun of my drawing im an artist lol


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

im not sure if that idea would work or not, but there is only one way to find out.


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

apparently the blowing from the intake is gonna mess up that scenario.


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

aight i got my new catch can rerouted. here is some pics. the Tee is on a lil more of a slope than the pic shows. i didnt want to mount it straight up and down for wheeling purposes


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

Nice. how's it working?

also, i saw this on HL 

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DS-289525&click=37735
thoughts?


----------



## bump530 (Jan 5, 2009)

i dunno how its working. i just finished it up last night. gonna put the clean air filter (it was SOAKED in motor oil from this problem) and get the plastics back on tonite. i prolly wont know much more till i ride again tho.

that lil filter thing might be something worth looking into. i would like to know what size line its for. but it might work. im not payin $100 to find out tho lol


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

check this out

http://www.mklsportster.com/xlhayden.htm


----------



## Mall Crawler (Jan 13, 2009)

phreebsd said:


> remember it's in a vaccuum when on the throttle. that could be enough to pull water in thru a badly leaking seal.
> also remember the deeper you go the higher the pressure exerted from the water will be. (think pool, not bad in 2 feet in shallow end but go deeper the presssure hurts your ears)
> 
> I found this neat calculator. look at the pressures at a given depth:
> ...


This is actually misleading because it is taking into account atmospheric pressure so there is actually only about 2 more psi at 5ft H2O than on top of the water. 1psi = 27.7 in H2O so 5ft x 12in = 60in/27.7 = 2.16psi


----------



## Mall Crawler (Jan 13, 2009)

Couple of questions.

Is the only bad part about running the vent up to the pod getting water in?

Other than that I just don't see what the problem with that is? As long as the hose has a downward slant to it so that the oil can run back down into the CC I don't see where it is anything different than how it is done from the factory. 

Someone please tell me what I am missing. I haven't had any problem with my 07 and I do ride wheelies and make WOT runs from time to time and I am contemplating buying an 09 but really don't want to put holes and vent lines everywhere on a brand new bike.


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

Mall Crawler said:


> This is actually misleading because it is taking into account atmospheric pressure so there is actually only about 2 more psi at 5ft H2O than on top of the water. 1psi = 27.7 in H2O so 5ft x 12in = 60in/27.7 = 2.16psi



i got this info from google.


----------



## Mall Crawler (Jan 13, 2009)

phreebsd said:


> i got this info from google.


Well it is correct info I just wanted to clarify that it wasn't as much as it actually seemed.


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Mall Crawler said:


> Someone please tell me what I am missing. I haven't had any problem with my 07 and I do ride wheelies and make WOT runs from time to time and I am contemplating buying an 09 but really don't want to put holes and vent lines everywhere on a brand new bike.


The CC pressure for the 07 and 09 should be almost same. I have 2 - 07's and have put oil in the airbox on 1 from wheelies and the other from WOT. So if your riding style doesn't change then you should have no problem, but always be careful because it is a possibility.


----------



## HeadC1 (Feb 11, 2009)

Oh and your other question, IMO the only thing i don't like about running it under the pod is water but I think I'm going to take my chances there. I'm also putting a low point in the line and a drain on it.


----------



## DjScrimm (Jan 2, 2009)

Is the conclusion to this thread that.... Both valve covers should be tied into a T and ran to the bottom vent of CC? With the CrankCase Vent ran to the middle and then top vented where ever suits your needs?

I get the basics of everything and functionality of the CC. I just always thought the purpose was to get oil back into the Front in order to save the rod bearing????

I ride wheelies/water wheelies for days, so this is becoming a concern...


----------



## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

this thread is better than any Jerry springer show, thanks guys LMAO.


----------



## DjScrimm (Jan 2, 2009)

DjScrimm said:


> Is the conclusion to this thread that.... Both valve covers should be tied into a T and ran to the bottom vent of CC? With the CrankCase Vent ran to the middle and then top vented where ever suits your needs?
> 
> I get the basics of everything and functionality of the CC. I just always thought the purpose was to get oil back into the Front in order to save the rod bearing????


Anyone??


----------



## kawa650 (Dec 19, 2008)

^^^yes your right, that will work fine

but I only have the front valve cover tapped on mine with not problems
Im building a different catch can now to replace the YFZ can because I dont like the YFZ can, I feel that the vent from it is to small, its 3/8s and the the stock vent is 5/8s, the other barbs on the can are 1/2"


----------



## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

I concur
I don't believe we came to a conclusion other then we feel that the one stock breather is not adequate and needs a additional('s).


----------



## robisra (Dec 13, 2009)

I've searched through all of the catch can threads, and I just ordered my yzf450 catchcan. It looks like most people are running option 2 below. Has anyone actually ran it as some have discussed in this post with option 1 config below?

Option 1
1. stock crank case vent hose from engine into bottom port on catch can (as new drain)
2. Install barbs into the valve inspection covers on front and rear cylinders, then run hose between these two ports and t into the middle port on catch can (new breathers).
3. Run vent line from top port of catch can to either the stock intake or to pod, whichever is preferred (i think I will run to stock intake).

Option 2
1. Stock crank case line from engine to middle port on catch can
2. new line from bottom port on catch can to either the front or back cylinder (new barb on only one inspection plate) as new drain.
3. Run vent line from top port of catch can to either the stock intake or to pod, whichever is preferred (i think I will run to stock intake).

Right now my engine is stock. I've only had the oil-in-airbox once, but it was bad enough to end the day and convince me to perform this mod.


----------

