# Sticky  equivalent fuel pump for the Brute Force



## yiluss

I saw a post about canam fuel pump equivalent, the OEM was $280 and the equivalent in autozone was about $80, I was wondering if there is also an equivalent for the BF since the OEM is around $600


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## Yesterday

unfortunately not at this time. a(possibly couple) people have tried installing external pumps with no positive results posted.


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## phreebsd

i'd love to disassemble my pump assembly and get to the actual pump motor. there's got to be one out there.


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## Hogchain

Just got mine back together. The pump motor itself is made by mitsubishi,I didnt see any numbers on it tho. 
ps. There is another screen in there that WILL get stopped up if you get mud in your tank.


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## phreebsd

thanks for that information. 

would you happen to have a pic of the actual pump?


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## Hogchain

Sure dont. As always, i didnt think about it till after i got it back together.


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## Crawfishie!!

with all the issues i had with mine and havin to spend that 700 to get mine back from the dealership, i never thought to take any pics with all the drama and finally...excitement there was. if i come across another pump i will get somethin on here for everyone to see, maybe between us on here we can save someone some serious cash....


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## phreebsd

that's what im hoping.


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## brute21

I got mine pulled out at the house and I will take a few pictures when I put the new one in


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## MeanGreenMan

I sure like to see the inside filter as well.

MGM


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## filthyredneck

I know the 750s are diff from the 650 SRA but when I had my 650 I had to change it....was just a plastic box on top of the gas tank with a diaphram inside that worked off vacuum but anyways a local shop here in Crosby, Tx called EAST-TEX got me an aftermarket part for like 35 bucks...talk to Shawn...281-328-6686. You may give him a try, he's a real cool guy to deal with...I use him alot


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## MeanGreenMan

filthyredneck08brute said:


> when I had my 650 I had to change it....was just a plastic box on top of the gas tank with a diaphram inside that worked off vacuum


This is the vacuum operated fuel pump for carbed engines (yea, it's broken and no good).









Here is the electric fuel pump for EFI 750s.









They are COMPLETELY different type.

MGM


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## hoover

I will look at pressure ratings in the manual and try to get my hands on an old pump and i will do some diggin through the fuel pump books


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## MeanGreenMan

hoover said:


> I will look at pressure ratings in the manual and try to get my hands on an old pump and i will do some diggin through the fuel pump books


EFI 750 Fuel Pump Spec:
Pressure: 43 PSI
Flowrate: 1.7 oz or 50 cc minimum for 3 seconds

MGM


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## N2Otorious

That vacuum pump looks like a Briggs & Stratton pump. 

I have one of those on my 27HP Intek v-twin Briggs.


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## MeanGreenMan

N2Otorious said:


> That vacuum pump looks like a Briggs & Stratton pump.
> 
> I have one of those on my 27HP Intek v-twin Briggs.


Yes, it does!
They all operate in a same manner.
The pump has 3 fittings on housing:
1. Vacuum source - usually from intake part of the top end engine, like intake port of the head on the BF750.
2. Fuel In - from the fuel tank.
3. Fuel Out - to the carb.

MGM


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## N2Otorious

MeanGreenMan said:


> Yes, it does!
> They all operate in a same manner.
> The pump has 3 fittings on housing:
> 1. Vacuum source - usually from intake part of the top end engine, like intake port of the head on the BF750.
> 2. Fuel In - from the fuel tank.
> 3. Fuel Out - to the carb.
> 
> MGM


Yepp, I just went outside and took a picture of the lawnmower.


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## smutty11

Here's a link to a cute little write up that some dudes at Mitsubishi Electric did on their T35 pumps.

http://global.mitsubishielectric.com/company/rd/advance/pdf/vol121/vol121_tr4.pdf

I was kinda hoping that Mitsu bought the pumps from Denso or somebody, but based on this article it looks like it's made in house at Mitsu Electric. Very bad news for us!!


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## smutty11

And here's a link to Mitsubishi Electric's Website where they "advertise" their fuel pump modual to buyers like Kawasaki and other manufacturers. 

http://global.mitsubishielectric.com/company/rd/advance/pdf/vol121/vol121_tr4.pdf

The bad news being that it's Mitsubishi's fault we can't buy just the pump, tank screen, or filter cartridge. They only make available the whole unit I suspect. Sadly were gonna have to wait till Denso or Walbro reverse engineer the pump and for other aftermarket parts manufacturers to make the filters.


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## 650Brute

Hmmmmm. Nice links.

I'm sure someone will find resolve to this. $700 for a pump is OUTRAGEOUS


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## DRZfour00

On my King Quad that I had before the Brute, my pump went bad and looked similar to the pic of the one posted above. I got a pump for a Honda Accord and was able to push some small nails into both sides of the tabs that holds the housing together to make it come apart without cracking it. Put it back together with the Honda pump and she ran great. We just need to find the equivalent pump for our bikes. Here is a link to the Nyroc tech tip that shows the King Quad pump and the Pro-fill filter kit that comes with the metal nails to disassemble the housing. Click Here


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## phreebsd

you guys should checkout this thread by cabyrd on HL

http://forum.highlifter.com/tm.aspx?m=4117829


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## DRZfour00

I guess that would work in a pinch but wouldn't you much rather have a pump in the housing where it belongs? I would just worry about the pump flopping around and coming apart, even though its secured wit zip-tys.


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## phreebsd

absolutely. 
just showing that it can be done. 
all u need is a pump to plumb into the factory fuel regulator.


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## MeanGreenMan

phreebsd said:


> all u need is a pump to plumb into the factory fuel regulator.


Where is the fuel regulator located?


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## N2Otorious

MeanGreenMan said:


> Where is the fuel regulator located?


My guess would be in the whole fuel tank assemble that resides inside the fuel tank, so the regulator can bleed off the excess fuel back into the tank with no need for a return fuel line, and the fuel feed can run dead head.

That's just a guess thou.


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## MeanGreenMan

N2Otorious said:


> My guess would be in the whole fuel tank assemble that resides inside the fuel tank, so the regulator can bleed off the excess fuel back into the tank with no need for a return fuel line, and the fuel feed can run dead head.
> 
> That's just a guess thou.


Your guess is right on!
I checked the factory service manual and it says that the fuel pressure regulator is inside the fuel pump body which is inside the fuel tank. So, you are right.

Additional info from the manual is that - the regulator can't be removed from the fuel pump assembly. I think what it's really saying is that you will have to destroy the fuel pump (housing?) in order to remove it. Let's see if anyone here will remove one and post a pic.


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## brutehulk

is the regulator the second part with wire besides the actual pump. if it is i took it out you just have to be careful with the plastic housing.


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## Rack High

There is a cheaper supplier out there besides Kawasaki but I don't believe I can post their name and price per MIMB rules...or can I?



650Brute said:


> Hmmmmm. Nice links.
> 
> I'm sure someone will find resolve to this. $700 for a pump is OUTRAGEOUS


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## smutty11

Here's a few pics of just the fuel pump....


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## smutty11




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## smutty11




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## smutty11

The numbers on the white plastic part are:

UC-T35
C(or 6)7822

and the bottom is more obviously A4


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## smutty11

Oh...and for anyone that's having the loss of power under full throttle issues....do the '85 mitsubishi galant tank screen mod. It's worth the $19.95. I've had my pump assembly out of the tank 3 or 4 times in the past couple days trying to isolate the fuel issue. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you cannot clean the stock screen. the particles it's supposed to filter get stuck in the gauze material and no matter how much you spray and blow you wont get them out. the way the foot of the screen rests in the plastic resevoir means the fuel has to come in through the top of the screen or at least 80-90% of it.


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## smutty11

Here's the whole assembly mostly disassembled


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## smutty11

And the fuel pressure regulator all alone


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## smutty11

and the galant screen next to the stock screen next to the "resevoir"


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## N2Otorious

I think my pump is toast.


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## N2Otorious

Opening mine up.


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## N2Otorious

MeanGreenMan said:


> Your guess is right on!
> I checked the factory service manual and it says that the fuel pressure regulator is inside the fuel pump body which is inside the fuel tank. So, you are right.
> 
> Additional info from the manual is that - the regulator can't be removed from the fuel pump assembly. I think what it's really saying is that you will have to destroy the fuel pump (housing?) in order to remove it. Let's see if anyone here will remove one and post a pic.


I got my regulator out, easily... However, separating the two halves above the regulator is a PITA. Looking up in the hole it looks like a 2nd filter up in there, that you can't get too. The halves of it are plastic welded together.

If that is a filter no doubt it'll be the same filter material as pre-pump filter. If that one clogs, it's a wrap...


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## phreebsd

Smutty11 thanks for your contributions to this thread!


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## James Williams

Hi,

Have had the same delima as you all have had. My pump works, but drops off after anything above ~50% throttle.
I was wanting to try the Mitsu Galant filter option; however, I wanted to be sure it wasn't my pump. Therefore, today, I pulled the pump, removed the filter, and reinstalled the pump. Was going to check how it ran without the plugged stock filter before buying the Mitsu Galant filter.
However, upon re-installing the pump, I was unable to get it to prime. I left the discharge line off coming out of the tank from the pump and nothing ever came out. Anyways, I was running short of time so i gave up on it.
Would like to know if I was doing something wrong... maybe need to prime it; or if I possibly put it back together wrong (which I doubt.)
Thanks in advance for any help!
James


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## brute21

james I had to hook it staight up to a battery to get it to turn over once It turned over I put it back in the bike and hooked everything back up and it worked. If that does not work you need to get another fuel pump good luck


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## N2Otorious

James the pump will only run for 3 seconds, then you have to cycle the key to get another 3 seconds, you may have to do this a few times to prime, I do not recomend running the pump without the filter and never ever run the pump dry...


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## ThaMule

Bringing this back up. I am looking at replacing my fuel pump on my carbed brute. Is it possible to get the canister apart without breaking it as pictured above. I have not taken anything apart yet so I want to go ahead and order it first because its gonna be a few days before I can even get to it. However, if i can break it apart and clean it out then no big deal.


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## MeanGreenMan

ThaMule said:


> I am looking at replacing my fuel pump on my carbed brute. Is it possible to get the canister apart without breaking it as pictured above.


Are you referring to the black plastic fuel pump?
If yes, I highly doubt if you can get get it apart w/o breaking it.


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## Brute650i

you can use a fuel pump from a GMC truck and mod it to fit inside the tank. Its rated at 45 psi Ill have to contact original poster to make sure its cool to transfer the info over here


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## ThaMule

Brute650i said:


> you can use a fuel pump from a GMC truck and mod it to fit inside the tank. Its rated at 45 psi Ill have to contact original poster to make sure its cool to transfer the info over here


that would be awesome if he could do that. Tell him i'll buy him a beer!


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## deadman inc

The fuel pump in the brutes are sensitive but they just dont go out. I have learned that the hard way. You gotta make sure your tank is sealed. One tank seal i did was the gas tank lid. When you put the lid on and it clicks. It wasnt good in my behalf atleast. I took it apart and plastic welded mine together. That sucker aint coming when you tighten it lol. The fuel pump is Mitsubishi and i have found a replacement after weeks of investigation. I found a part number. I tried to go to a Mitsubishi dealer and call Mitsubishi warehouse over the phone to try and get this pump. Mitsubishi said they cant sell that pump cause they are under contract with Kawasaki. The only way you can buy it is in a pump. Thats as far as i have gotten with the pump. Not saying you cant find a replica though. You can put an a corvette inline fuel pump. That sock at the bottom of the pump does make a difference believe it or not when you clean and sometimes you can get away with cleaning it good.....


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## MeanGreenMan

deadman inc said:


> That sock at the bottom of the pump does make a difference believe it or not when you clean and sometimes you can get away with cleaning it good.....


There is a 2nd filter at the outlet of the fuel pump and it gets clog up as well. That's why cleaning the filter sock (which is inlet) at the bottom doesn't work.


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## phreebsd

one thing to consider, TheMule, the fuel pump for carb brute is CHEAP.
Getting a new one would likely be your best bet.


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## bustamove

I haven't had a fuel problem yet but, what if you put a new inlet screen on then gut that second filter rip it out. Then put an inline filter before injectors. This is all assuming its a filter problem not a pump problem.


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## brute21

Does anybody know where I can get a gas tank cap that screws on tighter than the original it came with? I bet that's one one of the causes for these pumps to go out. I already vented my gas check valve to the top.


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## filthyredneck

brute21 said:


> Does anybody know where I can get a gas tank cap that screws on tighter than the original it came with? I bet that's one one of the causes for these pumps to go out. I already vented my gas check valve to the top.


Get a cap for a 650 SRA, both I had an 06 & 07 and neither of those caps clicked on the way my 750 does, they just twisted on as tight as you could get them

Fueling The Addiction Using Tapatalk


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## tmcgee09

I took my tank and pump out tonight and took the pump apart and the sock filter at the bottom of the pump was very dirty so we cleaned it and blew it out with air and it cleaned pretty well and came back white again. After cleaning the pump and the tank i reinstalled everything and ran the bike and it ran great better than it ever has....... for about 5 minutes and it started bogging at WOT again i can barely 50% throttle out of before it boggs down. Would the bike run fine without the stock filter sock at the bottom of the filter with an inline filter in place? Would that damage the pump. And does anyone know how or have pics of the filter screen in the top of the plug? Maybe i can clean that and take off the filter on the bottom of the pump. Any help would be great


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## Eastexasmudder

Unfortunately that small filter does not come out of the top of the pump. I have did alot of research and tried cleaning my pump filter and replacing it, it ran great for about 5 to 10 minutes till the pump got hot and started boggin out again, read this thread I wrote and it well help you understand the kawi pump.....http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/showthread.php?t=15140

you can also get this airtex filter and it will fit in the stock housing without modifying your housing or folding the filter. Airtex part # fs139

good luck.


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## tmcgee09

So you used that motor and it works? If so ill be getting one on the way tomorrow


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## tmcgee09

I see that it is the same motor but before i order one i want to confirm that it did fit in the housing from the brute and its working good i am about to ready to set the thing on fire lol i have tried everything to get it running with no success if this works that would be great cause im tired of tearing down and replacing parts or cleaning just for it go back out after 5 minutes.


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## Eastexasmudder

tmcgee09 said:


> I see that it is the same motor but before i order one i want to confirm that it did fit in the housing from the brute and its working good i am about to ready to set the thing on fire lol i have tried everything to get it running with no success if this works that would be great cause im tired of tearing down and replacing parts or cleaning just for it go back out after 5 minutes.


 
The swap did work, it is an exact fit and runs fine. I put a new sock on it when I installed the pump, when disassembling the zuki pump housings can be a bit tricky but just take your time. don't rush this process and remember if you buy one used you need to consider the posted mileage on the donor bike, I bought 3 used pumps and stripped them down for spares.


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## tmcgee09

Thanks man sorry to bug you with the email but that got me excited to hear about the fix. I appreciate your help.


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## Eastexasmudder

tmcgee09 said:


> Thanks man sorry to bug you with the email but that got me excited to hear about the fix. I appreciate your help.


That's what Mimb is here for, glad someone is getting use of my hard work.


I'd rather be riding instead I'm using tapatalk!


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## tmcgee09

Changed out the pump with the GSX-R 750 UC-T35 pump motor she ran for about ten minutes as strong as ever before and then laid down again. I have a pinch in my fuel line its bent a little bit and i was thinkin that could have something to do with it because it started missing and bogging again and the exhaust was glowing hot. Any help would be great guys im about ready to give up on it


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## Eastexasmudder

Did you put a new filter on the pump? Mine has been in for about 3 weeks and no issues with it. Also
Remember you bought a used pump and it could be just dying out. It sounds lean if the exhaust is glowin red. Fix your kink and if you havnt put a new filter on it you need to


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## tmcgee09

I did replace the filter on the pump with the airtex FS139 like your other post said to use and i know that this new pump is way stronger i can tell when im riding it that it has way more power than with the other pump and im not so sure if it is only missing because its running so lean its getting hot and pre detonating? could be completely wrong but thats just a guess


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## tmcgee09

Changed the fuel line still no success. I put the pressure gauge back on it and its registering 43 psi


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## Eastexasmudder

When I installed mine I dumped the tank and completely cleaned it out. There is also another filter inside the pump housing that you can't get to. I drilled mine out and installed a hiflow inline fuel filter. If you dint clean your tank out you might want to pull the pump again and look at your filter. Sounds like the fuel pump is getting hot and slowing down. It has to be restricted at that second filter imo


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## tmcgee09

Do you just drill out the top of the pump where the white plastic is in the large top opening and when i done mine i dumped the tank and cleaned it also. If so tomorro i will drill that filter out of the top


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## Eastexasmudder

The piece that has the fuel regulator in it that is plastic welded. You can also just take a small screwdriver and stab a few larger holes in it. It was a pain to drill the lip out and pull the second filter. Be careful if you drill it out. Make sure you also put all the O'rings back in place as well when you reassembled your pump


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## tmcgee09

Okay thanks i guess im still a little confused about what you mean with the fuel regulator. If you have a spare pump could you post a pic of what your talking about drilling or puttin holes in. Thanks alot for all your help


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## tmcgee09

I know that the brutes have a fuel pressure regulator up by the airbox mounted to the same bracket as the shift knob and linkage but your not talkin about any of that i dont think.


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## Eastexasmudder

I don't have a spare to take pics, the regulator is silver and small. You have to take the entire pump apart to get to it. It's the part rite below the very top of it. The pump breaks down into 4 pieces. Take a flashlight and shine into the holes and you will se the second filter


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## tmcgee09

Okay Great thanks man i will post what i find tomorro and will add some pics to the thread for future help.


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## tmcgee09

Well i beleive i have got it whipped. I took and drilled out the regulator part of the pump and removed that metal screen which i will say was completely stopped up and now she is running like a scolded dog. Thanks for all the help couldnt have dont it without rmax and MIMB. Meant to take pics but just got to deep into and forgot but maybe someone can use this to fix theirs and can get some good pics


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## Eastexasmudder

Glad you got it whipped


I'd rather be riding instead I'm using tapatalk!


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## tmcgee09

Thanks to you man Im sorry i mean to mention you in that last post


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## INSTITCHEZ

I had the same problem guys and yes that secondary filter was the problem! Love this forum and all the info you guys provide....thanks!


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## lilman5047

can u jus buy the motor to the gsxr 750 and it fit inside the stock brute force fuel pump housing or do you swap the whole unit out??


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## Eastexasmudder

lilman5047 said:


> can u jus buy the motor to the gsxr 750 and it fit inside the stock brute force fuel pump housing or do you swap the whole unit out??


You have to buy the whole unit, strip it down, install the pump in the kawi housing(you cant buy just the motor, you have to buy the entire unit)also replace the stock filter sock and drill out the secondary filter and install a high-flow inline fuel filter. This is from experience that I've found and done.


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## wes ranch 4x4

my bike is doing exactly what yall have described and ive replaced the kwi pumps with the airtex fuel pump that somebody a link to on highlifter and it did the same thing but at this time i didnt know about the second filter in the top of the pump so i assumed i had a bad pump and exchanged it for another one and have the same results so im pretty sure at this point i need to do something to that top filter and would like to know which hole the filter is isible through where i can stab some holes into it? thanks in advance this thread is perfect for me!!!


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## wes ranch 4x4

300? i think the filter will fix mine but wouldnt mind a backup lol


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## Eastexasmudder

blownbrute13 said:


> my bike is doing exactly what yall have described and ive replaced the kwi pumps with the airtex fuel pump that somebody a link to on highlifter and it did the same thing but at this time i didnt know about the second filter in the top of the pump so i assumed i had a bad pump and exchanged it for another one and have the same results so im pretty sure at this point i need to do something to that top filter and would like to know which hole the filter is isible through where i can stab some holes into it? thanks in advance this thread is perfect for me!!!


When you take the pump apart it breaks down into 4 prices. The 2nd part of the pump which is located rite below the top is where it is located. You will see a metal screen inside. You can either pole holes in it or drill
It out. I drilled mine out and added another filter to it before the throttle body's. Hope this helps and good luck!


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## wes ranch 4x4

i have that piece your talking about here in my hand at this exact moment but dont know where the screen is im trying to puncture?


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## Eastexasmudder

You have too look inside the holes that are in it. That peice is plastic welded together and does not come apart. You might need a flashlight too see it. If I ever get my hands on another pump I'm going to do a write up on it!!!!


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## wes ranch 4x4

ive looked inside it through the holes and i think i may be able to see it through the inlet hole. is it not directly in front of the hole but kind of like standing up around the sides of the hole?


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## Eastexasmudder

You found it. 


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## negativ0001

Hi guys!
I got my friend`s ATV Kawasaki BF 750i 2008 and it runs like crap. It starts great even in -25C, the idle is ok, but the top speed is 10mph, if i hit the gas, for 1 second it jumps, but then it start`s to backfire to the air box and tailpipe.
I disconnected the fuel hose from throttle body and measured the fuel flow for 3 sec and it was 6.5ml (0.22 oz) and i think it should be minimum 1.7 oz(??)
I hope the only problem with it is just that second metal filter, and not with the pump or the pressure regulator. (i did not measure the pressure, i think it`s useless with this flow). 
Do the pump and pressure regulator used to go wrong? or only the filter used to get clogged.?
What kind of inline fuel filter you guys used in this situation? What car`s filter?
Thanks.
Endre


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## wes ranch 4x4

i didnt research on doing the inline filter but after i got my fuel pump straightened out i kept getting trash in my injectors so i put a regular clear autozone filter about 4"s before it gets to the injectors and it seems to work but i havent ran the bike cause i had already stopped up my injectors before i put the filter.


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## negativ0001

smutty11 said:


> and the galant screen next to the stock screen next to the "resevoir"


That`s a Walbro pump filter 125-147??*
*


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## negativ0001

I`m done! I made holes in that metal filter, whit a curved thin nail, applied silicone to O rings in fuel pump assemble because it loosed pressure after fuel pump stop, now it`s ok. I found a great little fuel filter (it`s for Daewoo) and changed the original fuel line. Now the fuel flow is 2.9 oz in 3 sec.
Still problem is with idle ....is too low and sometimes ( around in every 10-30 sec) the idle jumps for a fraction of sec. as like i hit the gas.
After a big snow ride....(the snow melted on the engine and everything was wet) i put in neutral and reved up to a steady 4000-4500 rpm it backfired (or afterfired?) continuously in to the exhaust pipe.
What can be?
Bad spark plug cable?


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## brute21

@ Eastexasmudder Great job on figuring out what to do man! I have replaced 3 so far and I guarantee you the 2nd filter was the problem on all of them. I still have my old one so I will be doing this once mine clogs up again. Hopefully the next guys that goes out will post up a video of it. :rockn:


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## Eastexasmudder

Y'all are welcome, I just need an old pump and I'll do a write up on one. Glad this is helping everyone out!


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## wes ranch 4x4

if i end up pulling my tank and cleaning it out ill try to get some pics of my pump with the airtex/autozone pump modded to it first ive gotta get new injectors though.


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## brute21

Looks like mine is acting up again. What are signs of clogged injectors? I rode mine for a while with the pcIII the. Started to loose power and backfire. I removed the pcIII and it was running perfect then after awhile riding it went right back to popping an loosing power again. I just replaced the spark plugs and tried that didn't work. I guess I will try the fuel pump screen but it worked great for a minute after I removed the pcIII


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## Eastexasmudder

Its because the pump motor starts getting hot and shutting down, after it cools off it will run fine till it get hits again. If you had a clogged injector, it would run badly constantly


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## brute21

What would you recommend me try next?


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## Eastexasmudder

Try removing the second screen, also change the primary sock as well. Have you relocated the vent tube for the gas tank? Also clean the tank inside very well. After the second screen has been removed make sure you take carb or brake cleaner to the pump housing inside and out cleaning it up very well.


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## brute21

I will give that a shot y'all mention adding a new filter where you drill out the metal screen what filter did you use for this.


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## Eastexasmudder

My bike is 4 hrs away at the moment and I can't remember what it was, basically an inline hi-flow filter that was rated up to 60 psi


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## brute21

Thanks


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## negativ0001

This is the filter what i used.
http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/catalog/2001/Kia/Sportage/Air_and_Fuel_Delivery/Fuel_Filter/Beck_Arnley/043-ds-1029.html?filter=part%20name:Fuel+Filter_make:Kia_

http://alkaos.com/view.php?filename=854DSC_0101.jpg


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## brute21

Ok this is the part the 2nd filter is in where exactly do I drill at and what size drill bit?


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## negativ0001

I used a thin 1.5-2mm curved sharp nail, so i ripped off the filter. Pieces of metal filter may enter in to fuel pressure regulator so blow with compressed air. When you put everything together apply a very small amount of silicon to the O rings. I had pressure loss there.
On your first pic you have that interesting looking plastic on top of that filter housing., pull it off so you can reach easily the filter.


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## mjn

Ok... help me out here;

Here's mine right now;









Is the secondary screen filter inside the hole on the right? Opposite the regulator? If so... do I need to remove that little collar inside the hole to gain decent access to the screen??


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## brute21

He said to use a curved nail to get to filter. Ok I understand now where the filter is, next question is I see you posted the filter you used to replace this one (beck Arnley fuel filter) Where did you attach it to? The actual fuel pump inside gas tank or externally before the injector? Almost got the process covered but just making sure.


----------



## mjn

brute21 said:


> He said to use a curved nail to get to filter. Ok I understand now where the filter is, next question is I see you posted the filter you used to replace this one (beck Arnley fuel filter) Where did you attach it to? The actual fuel pump inside gas tank or externally before the injector? Almost got the process covered but just making sure.


You say you understand where the screen is.... am I correct? is it inside the right hand side hole in my pic?

the Arnley filter he's referring to would be an after-pump inline filter.. somewhere between the tank and your injectors.. Not sure how important that is, as there is no filter there now, and all we're doing is removing part of a small screen...


----------



## mjn

Alright... Held a flashlight to the side & used a magnifying glass... I see the metal screen in there. Took an awl with a twisted end and ripped the crap out of it. Fuel should flow now. I cleaned out the hole as good as I could with carb cleaner.

Time to put this big puzzle in my shop back together again.

Side note: I bored 13 each 1 1/8" holes in the tank pan... That sucker had a lot of crap in it!


----------



## mjn

Ok, before I put it back together, I decided to run some tests... I wish now I'd have run these before I took it apart, but oh we'll.

I'm using a ratio rite that starts at 4 oz, so each measurement is from 2 pulls. Ie: key on for 3 seconds, off... Wait, key on again for 3 sec's.

First couple of times didn't count as the pump was priming and pumping at the same time but from the 3rd key-on pull here they are:
First 2 pulls : 6 oz
Second 2: 7.8oz
Third 2: 7.8 oz
Forth 2: 7.9 oz


I know this says nothing about what it does under load, but at this point it looks like its working properly.


----------



## mjn

Right***kinOn!!! 

NOW she runs!!

This forum ROCKS!


----------



## negativ0001

brute21 said:


> He said to use a curved nail to get to filter. Ok I understand now where the filter is, next question is I see you posted the filter you used to replace this one (beck Arnley fuel filter) Where did you attach it to? The actual fuel pump inside gas tank or externally before the injector? Almost got the process covered but just making sure.


Here are two pictures.
On the first (original filter) you can see where actually the metal filter is (red) and the black marks...that is the easiest place where you can rip or make holes on the filter.
On the second you can see the inline fuel filter. It`s on the right side of ATV. You`ll find the place, just look at the picture, my english is not so good to explain the exact location. Hint: you see, there is the brake switch wire too....
This inline fuel filter is obligatory!!!!!!! and of course, you have to change the original fuel hose too. I put 1.10-1.20meters of high pressure hose. Be careful when you push the new hose on the fuel pump assembly. Use oil or heat up the hose. I used 6mm hose, it would be easier with 8mm hose.


----------



## negativ0001

negativ0001 said:


> I`m done! I made holes in that metal filter, whit a curved thin nail, applied silicone to O rings in fuel pump assemble because it loosed pressure after fuel pump stop, now it`s ok. I found a great little fuel filter (it`s for Daewoo) and changed the original fuel line. Now the fuel flow is 2.9 oz in 3 sec.
> Still problem is with idle ....is too low and sometimes ( around in every 10-30 sec) the idle jumps for a fraction of sec. as like i hit the gas.
> After a big snow ride....(the snow melted on the engine and everything was wet) i put in neutral and reved up to a steady 4000-4500 rpm it backfired (or afterfired?) continuously in to the exhaust pipe.
> What can be?
> Bad spark plug cable?


I found the problem. I had a broken/torn spark plug cap. I changed it and good as new.


----------



## Mundy

mines giving problems now!! mines a 08 with 500 miles an 60 hours! never been in the mud an garage kept!! figured they would of made a better design!! or something to last longer


----------



## Mundy

Bearhunter said:


> $300 shipped to your door, new fuel pump in the box! Let me know, replace and go, no screwing around!


 
you still got the pump??


----------



## Eastexasmudder

Mundy said:


> mines giving problems now!! mines a 08 with 500 miles an 60 hours! never been in the mud an garage kept!! figured they would of made a better design!! or something to last longer


Did you check your secondary filter in the pump. A friend just had his stop up and he knew I had went through it as well and he took brake clean and was able blow it clean


I'd rather be riding instead I'm using tapatalk!


----------



## Mundy

i read up on what your saying thanks.. im going to try that this weekend!!


----------



## brute21

Just did like they said on the 2nd filter on top of pump and she is running wide open again! Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## Mundy

going to see how it turns out for mind saturday!!


----------



## Mundy

Good new's that second filter was the problem!!! Did like u said an it's running better than it ever has!!!! Thanks for your help!!!


----------



## x rated mudders

i **** near bought a $500 pump today glad i saw this, now i just need help getting it done before mudnats ....


----------



## brute21

Not hard man just pull back plastics off and pull gas tank


----------



## wes ranch 4x4

i put the airtex pump in my brute and it did the same thing ripped the secondary screen out and drilled the hole out slightly and she runs perfect actually think my stock pump was fine


----------



## SRRBrute

Well I just got done replacing the sock filter with the one from the galant, and ripping the secondary filter up. From seeing everyone else's posts, I was getting excited. Nope! Same exact problem instantly. 

Mine is an'08 by the way. Problem is: pressing throttle softly, and/or holding lightly, it wants to either cut off completely or stumble real bad. Is there anything else to check? I'm about ready to take it to a dealer but then wonder if they'll even look at it with that done, and the spark plug wire mod on it. Please help!

Sent from my DROID BIONIC


----------



## Eastexasmudder

Might try the flow test, if not you can order a fuel pump for a 09 gsxr 750 and pull the motor out of it and put it in your housing, there the exact same pumps


I'd rather be riding instead I'm using tapatalk!


----------



## negativ0001

yupp, flow test!!!! Disconnect the fuel hose from throttle body put the hose in a graduated glass and turn the key on. The pump should run for 3 sec. Repeat 2-3 times, after each try read the level, it should be 50ml or above. Good luck'


----------



## SRRBrute

Ok I haven't done this test yet, plan to soon. 

Eastexasmudder, do you know if the fuel pressure regulator from the gsxr will also fit in our assembles?

Sent from my DROID BIONIC


----------



## Eastexasmudder

SRRBrute said:


> Ok I haven't done this test yet, plan to soon.
> 
> Eastexasmudder, do you know if the fuel pressure regulator from the gsxr will also fit in our assembles?
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC


The regulators are different, I just reused my old housing and regulator.Changed the sock and removed the secondary screen. Only thing that was Changed was the motor it self. It's identical to the kawi pump mtr. Just besure and clean everything up real good,pump housing and the inside of the tank. It might not look dirty but mine had some nasty black crap in it you couldn't see till you took a rag to it.


I'd rather be riding instead I'm using tapatalk!


----------



## SRRBrute

Yeah I'm just not real sure because my problem isn't the same as everyone rise is having. I have good fuel flow at full throttle, my problem is right off of no throttle. I have already done all these other fixes and my symptom was exactly the same. That's why I think it would be the regulator.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC


----------



## SRRBrute

Ok well I did the flow test and got over 100ml's each time and almost 5 seconds of running. Don't think the pump is the problem. 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC


----------



## RS4U

What do you drill out the regulator or what for the second filter


----------



## jakedogg

SRRBrute said:


> Ok well I did the flow test and got over 100ml's each time and almost 5 seconds of running. Don't think the pump is the problem.
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC


You're talking about your 750 right?
Some 08 models had problems with the throttle bodies. One I'm working on now has already been replaced by the dealer. Not sure if it was warranty or recall, but we couldn't figure out what was wrong. There wasn't even a error code to reference.

Btw. Sorry I didn't get back up with you about Albany. Did y'all end up going to possum creek?


----------



## SRRBrute

Yeah it's on my 750. I think I may have figured it our last night. I adjusted my throttle position sensor and now I can't make it cut off like I was able to do before. So it just needs some testing. 

Yeah we went to possum creek. A friend flipped his and my tire fell off, but we had a blast! I think we may end up riding somewhere August 11th weekend so let new know if y'all are interested in that. 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC


----------



## jakedogg

Yeah I'd be interested. Maybe I'll have mine back together by then.


----------



## brutemike

ok I did all this with the screen and put an inline filter as stated and now it wont even start any ideas. The fi lite flashes when trying to start it.

Sent from my C771


----------



## brutemike

bump

Sent from my C771


----------



## jakedogg

Did you install the filter the right way? They only flow one way.


----------



## Snyiper

jakedogg said:


> Did you install the filter the right way? They only flow one way.


X2 That would be my first thing to check


----------



## brutemike

jakedogg said:


> Did you install the filter the right way? They only flow one way.


I sure did but I used 5/16 injector fuel line going to try the next size down and see if that helps maybe to big of line and not enough pressure I don't know. When I pulled the line off the throttle body it had pressure and gas went every where.

Sent from my C771


----------



## brutemike

so I did away with the filter and 5/16 th line and just put 1/4" line on and its doing the same thing so its not the line and filter. But the fi lite still flashes when trying to start????.
Ok it sat for awhile and hit the key and fired rite up then died and wont start again.
Sent from my C771


----------



## brutemike

Wow I feel dumb it was the roll over switch I had to reset so heads up on that one guys. I had fuel turning the key on but not when trying to start it.:what: I put the filter and 5/16 line back on and took it for a spin around the neighborhood and runs great.

Sent from my C771


----------



## rnolloth88

I'm having the same issues. I removed/ tore the upper screen. And replaced the lower sock with the 85 galant part. I deffinetly have good flow now. I get about 2.7 ounces when the fuel pump is switched on for the 3 -4 seconds it runs. I was getting maybe 1 ounce before. But my fuel pressure is right at 33 psi. I know spec is 43 psi. My question is, has anybody found an equivalent pump we can put in place. I havent searched around for the 09 gsxr 750 pump that was mentioned yet. I was looking more towards new that one of my local parts stores might stock or be able to get next day. Thanks in advance!!


----------



## Polaris425

I figured this needed to be a sticky.


----------



## rnolloth88

Just wanted to add an update to this thread. I purchased a used fuel pump/sending unit assembly from a 2008 Suzuki Gsxr 750 Motorcycle. If you disassemble that assembly just like the brute force assembly. The fuel pump itself can be swapped out. It is exactly the same pump. Part number and all is the same. I bought one for 110.00 off of ebay and that was with Overnight shipping. Installed on my bike, and it 's never run as good as it does now. Pump must have been weak when i bought the quad 2 years ago. You guys all rock, from the Filter/screen cleaning trick to the Gsxr fuel pump replacement!!


----------



## 88rxn/a

took the pump apart today and got some pics. sorry they are a bit blurry, dang phone..
im assuming the dark area in the whole is what needs drilled out (in the first photo)?
if so, how in the world are you getting at it!?


----------



## Saintsation

so the whole pump will work unbolt oem one then put that one in ?


----------



## rnolloth88

You have to disassemble the pump assembly. Only the pump itself will work. Not the housing or sending unit. 88rxn/a's pics are good. Just replace the silver fuel pump. Though be sure to clean the upper screen. It's a pain to get to, you basically have to tear the old screen out.Destroy it so to speak you can use a small pick tool some people use a small nail to tear it.


----------



## vogie

rnolloth88 said:


> Just wanted to add an update to this thread. I purchased a used fuel pump/sending unit assembly from a 2008 Suzuki Gsxr 750 Motorcycle. If you disassemble that assembly just like the brute force assembly. The fuel pump itself can be swapped out. It is exactly the same pump. Part number and all is the same. I bought one for 110.00 off of ebay and that was with Overnight shipping. Installed on my bike, and it 's never run as good as it does now. Pump must have been weak when i bought the quad 2 years ago. You guys all rock, from the Filter/screen cleaning trick to the Gsxr fuel pump replacement!!


 You have the part number you ordered? I am in need of a pump for my 09.


----------



## vogie

I come up with a 15100-37H00, but without disassembling it hard to tell. used ones no big deal aruond $100 bucks but new are $300 so I don't want to take the chance :/


----------



## 518atv

In terms of volume on FI pump (1.7), is that under pressure or just flowing into a cup?


----------



## 518atv

Same issues and solution today! Although I did install new fuel pump. I am tempted to put my old pump with the mods back in and see what happens??


----------



## brutefoce88

My brute just starting having the same symptoms as many of the post listed. i'm going to pull the tank and rip a hole in the secondary filter today was wondering what inline filters everyone has been using? how do you know if its "high flow"


----------



## ky_black_ss

having the same problem with my 09 brute force going to take it apart and rip out the upper screen before i buy a pump


----------



## ky_black_ss

New Intank Fuel Pump Kawasaki EFI Fuel Injection w Strainer 1999 2012 | eBay
does anyone know if this is the same pump as a brute force


----------



## setxregulators83

*i looked at the one u got on ebay*

opp


----------



## ky_black_ss

ok i was hoping it would have been


----------



## setxregulators83

*sorry im new to talking on forum/ commenting*



ky_black_ss said:


> New Intank Fuel Pump Kawasaki EFI Fuel Injection w Strainer 1999 2012 | eBay
> does anyone know if this is the same pump as a brute force


 
OK SO I DID SOME RESEARCH AND LOOKING and you might be on to something here. i actually dont think this is the actual picture to the fuel pump i checked out the company page and all there fuel pumps for every name brand make and model all use the same pic. so im checking into it to see if this is something that might help our fuel pump replacement problem . keep u posted.


----------



## ky_black_ss

thanks i hope so


----------



## ky_black_ss

i took mine apart today and ripped a hole in the secondary filter runs like new again


----------



## NMKawierider

Ran across this over on KR. Kinda long-winded but it appears to be an option worth looking at.

08 Brute Force Fuel Pump Fix - YouTube


----------



## SweetC

I think yall are going to be a life saver for me. i have spent the last 2 weeks trying to figure out my pump issue. The person I got my Brute from already did a Chevy mod and did not do a very good job. Maybe I can salvage it!!!


----------



## 2010Bruterider

rnolloth88 said:


> Just wanted to add an update to this thread. I purchased a used fuel pump/sending unit assembly from a 2008 Suzuki Gsxr 750 Motorcycle. If you disassemble that assembly just like the brute force assembly. The fuel pump itself can be swapped out. It is exactly the same pump. Part number and all is the same. I bought one for 110.00 off of ebay and that was with Overnight shipping. Installed on my bike, and it 's never run as good as it does now. Pump must have been weak when i bought the quad 2 years ago. You guys all rock, from the Filter/screen cleaning trick to the Gsxr fuel pump replacement!!


This is what I did to fix my 2010 brute fuel pump. Bought a gsxr pump assembly and pulled the motor out to install in my brute pump assembly. It works great and only cost $150. Thanks MIMB!!! 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## smutty11

Here's a couple of my vids from my fix a couple years ago. A little long winded in some parts and maybe sometimes master of the obvious.













 
can't for the life of me remeber the part number on the pump, but it was less than $80.


----------



## SweetC

I had to buy a new pump but I'm keeping the old one to play around with the mod. Hopefully when this new one goes out I will have a spare. Now I just have to replace the axle my husband just broke. It's one thing after another on this one.


----------



## gtsum2

Bringing this back up as it appears my filter if plugged again (dealer alledgedly replaced the outer filter about a week ago). They said I had all kinds of junk in the tank and Kawi would not warranty it. Did 200 miles at Hatfield this weekend and the last 25 miles it started bogging, cutting out, and back firing bad. Same thing it did before they replaced the filter. I dont want another $381 bill on a machine that is still under warranty, so I am going to get the 85 Galant filter and use that, as well as trying to use carb cleaner and air to clean the little mesh filter inside and see how it goes. If I cant get the little mesh one inside clean and if I poke holes in it with a dental pick or something, do I need to install an external filter after the tank?

My next question is regarding the fuel check valve..I am thinking this it the cause of getting junk into the tank...I have a pro fill fuel filter so I know nothing is getting in the tank that way. Is the stock (2012 750) fuel check valve routed into the frame and then up to the pod area, or does it just stop at the frame? if it just stops at the frame, that seems like a lame design. If so, I am thinking I need to run hose all the way up to the pod area? ANy idea what size hose?


----------



## 2010Bruterider

gtsum2, the fuel tank vent stops where it goes into the frame. You need to pull it out of the frame, pull off the rubber end that holds it in the frame. Extend it with some vent hose and run it all the way to the pod. You are correct in your thinking that dirt and whatever else is getting in you tank threw the check valve. If you end up tearing up the little metal screen in your fuel pump, then yes, add an inline filter between the tank and the injectors. If you don't, you will risk clogging the injectors with the same crud that clogs the metal screen/filter in the pump housing. I put the galant sock on my pump, tore out the metal screen, and installed an inline filter. It's a good idea.


----------



## gtsum2

2010brute-thanks for the good info. Will pull the tank and do the filter mod and clean the tank out and redo the bent line to the pod. Dumb question, but should I run the bent line along the frame and up to the pod (highest point on the bike) to protect it from water entry? Angle the vent line up or down? Down I would imagine? Thanks again for all the help!


----------



## SweetC

I ran mine up the side of my snorkels. Just giving u an idea.


----------



## 2010Bruterider

I ran mine gas tank vent up to the pod. I just put a couple of loops around the bars and zip tied it to one of the cables under the pod cover.

---don't go away mad, just go away---


----------



## gtsum2

Thanks 2010!


----------



## gtsum2

Regarding the fuel filter...that job is completed. Took the tank out and there was sand and dirt and water in there. Mind you this was only after 200 miles. The bike was never sunk or in deep mud (nothing that required 4wd for more than 10 seconds). I cleaned the tank and took the fuel pump apart. The filter (200 miles on it) was filthy and there was sand and such inside the pump housing. Cleaned it all up with Carb Cleaner and blasted the stuff out and installed a fuel pump strainer for a 85 Mitsuibishi Galant, part number is fs131 at autozone. My fuel pump is fine, but if it goes out, I now know how to take the housing apart and actually replace the pump (can use a GXSR 750 pump in it..only about 75 bucks too). I kept the check valve there, but instead of running it back into the frame, I got a 6 ft piece of fuel tubing and ran it up along the frame to the pod area. That check valve was letting stuff get into the tank. This should fix it....I hope! The Brute runs strong like bull again...just need to take it in for the flashing 4wd (should be under warranty I would think). Thanks again for all the help here!!!


----------



## brutemike

Make sure you guys are screwing your gas cap down tight or buy an 05-07 brute cap.


----------



## gtsum2

Do the 05-07 caps not use a clicker type and screw down all the way?


----------



## brutemike

gtsum2 said:


> Do the 05-07 caps not use a clicker type and screw down all the way?


No they do not.


----------



## gtsum2

Thanks. I will order one and try it out. I wonder why they went to the clicker type?


----------



## gtsum2

2010Bruterider said:


> gtsum2, the fuel tank vent stops where it goes into the frame. You need to pull it out of the frame, pull off the rubber end that holds it in the frame. Extend it with some vent hose and run it all the way to the pod. You are correct in your thinking that dirt and whatever else is getting in you tank threw the check valve. If you end up tearing up the little metal screen in your fuel pump, then yes, add an inline filter between the tank and the injectors. If you don't, you will risk clogging the injectors with the same crud that clogs the metal screen/filter in the pump housing. I put the galant sock on my pump, tore out the metal screen, and installed an inline filter. It's a good idea.


Well, my fix didnt last long, so I took the tank out again and cleaned it out better. I also poked holes in the screen on the pump housing and replaced the sock again, so now I need an inline fuel filter. What kind did you use? I imagine there are different ones for fuel injection vs carbed? I am convinced my check valve is bad too...going to take that out (already ran the line to the pod), and I'm going to put a fuel filter on the end of that to stop dust, etc from entering the line


----------



## 08monsterbrute

Okay, so I got an extra fuel pump and cut it open, to get a good look at it. As most if you know it's not the motor that goes bad as much as the internal filter that can not be reached gets clogged. I do say that you replace the sock t the bottom first just in case. But after looking at the pump in pieces.. I have found a way to bypass the internal filter without cutting or harming the plastics or fuel pump in itself.. All you have to do is drill out the hole that leads to the output and while drilling that out continue drillin slightly until you drill through the internal filter... Leaving a hole in it. Then fuel will be able to pass through it. But what are you going to do without that second filter? Put an inline filter down the fuel line a foot or so and there you have it... I know it's difficult to understand but if you've ever looked at the middle part of the pump..(after unsnapping the 3 pieces apart) you should see what I mean. Mines never had so much power. Saved 500$ with a drill bit and a 4 dollar inline fuel filter


----------



## gtsum2

Will any inline fuel filter work or need a special fuel injected one?


----------



## 08monsterbrute

Fuel injected just so it can withstand the pressure... Auto zone has them all day long


----------



## gtsum2

08monsterbrute said:


> Fuel injected just so it can withstand the pressure... Auto zone has them all day long


gonna get one today..thanks!


----------



## Blackbeast87

*Fuel Pump*

I just experienced this and 08monsterbrute seems to have the best answer for this problem. When I took my pump apart I did not see the screen but after cutting open the top part of the pump the screen is an oval shaped wire cage or should I say jail as the screen is very fine and I have been very careful not to get stuff in the tank but still ended up with this problem. In fact the buddy I ride with had this happen at about the same time at RiverRun in Texas. We got gas from the same place.

After looking at a bunch of posts I would like to throw out my theories an why everyone should go ahead and mod their pump assembly before this happens (snorkel vent first). The internal filter is very very fine and will clog. The problem with this is the fuel pressure regulator is after the screen so if the screen becomes clogged no fuel is going through the pump to keep it cool and the pressure builds similar to hydro locking it. I think this is why most people report it runs sort of for the first few minutes on original startup. With the filter mounted outside of the tank even if it becomes clogged fuel will continue to go through the regulator keeping the pump pressures and temperature down. This is why I recommend doing the mod sooner rather than later to prevent burning out the pump.

Taking the pump apart is not that difficult, just take your time and use finishing nails to hold up the tangs as you go around the pump otherwise you do not have enough hands. I also drilled out the inlet side of the top module prior to punching out the screen. When looking at the inlet you will see where the screen inlet plastic is molded into the part and if you drill out in stages until that is gone you will easily see the screen and be able to punch it out.

One other note this is based on the original 08 pumps that breakdown into three pieces. Based on pictures the new pumps look different. I was considering fabricating pumps for these and selling them and still might since the cost of replacing is outrageous.


----------



## Codeman350ss

08monsterbrute said:


> Fuel injected just so it can withstand the pressure... Auto zone has them all day long


Do you happen to have an application, part numberm, or picture of the inline filter. I would appreciate it. Trying to help a freind out with his.


----------



## gtsum2

I went to autozone, told them what I needed, and they gave me a standard inline fuel filter for $5. Said it didnt matter if my brute was fuel injected or not..it would work. I said don't I need a special one for fuel injection, and they said no..I told them what the fuel pump puts out pressure wise and they said I was fine.....I have put about 30 miles on it of fast trail riding and it seems to be working fine.


----------



## Leelord337

Well I was out riding today and it rode fine until I made it to the spot in the middle of the woods. I noticed it has been running hotter than normal...well, i tried starting it again after letting it cool and the thing would not start at ALL! Eventually the battery drained from trying to start it and had to get towed back by a Polaris 800. Thank God we made it back home over those steep hills. 

I really don't wanna pay kawasaki the diagnosis fee, do y'all think its most likely the fuel pump since it ran fine but wouldn't start after it got hot? I did have to replace the whole fuel pump 2 years ago with a new one. I wonder if its due...and is that fuel pump motor on ebay for 89.95 any good? do I need anything else for the fuel pump to rebuild it? I really don't wanna pay 500 for another pump again....


----------



## edi1977

Hi guys,

I have similar problem with fuel pump/regulator on my Brute 750 and i need help on this. I have installed GSXR 750 pump and it not solved trouble... afer 10-15 minutes of riding my brute starts to loose power.
I think maybe it is the problem with fuel regulator, but as i read posts in this thread i spoted that you say it might be secondary filter ?
I dont quite understand what has to be done with second filter ? Where and how to put it out where to drill ???

My next Cross Country race with my Brute depends on this so please for any help on this issue i will be really gratefull !

my fb site with brute pictures 
https://www.facebook.com/#!/edi.omerovic.3


----------



## 2010Bruterider

edi1977 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I have similar problem with fuel pump/regulator on my Brute 750 and i need help on this. I have installed GSXR 750 pump and it not solved trouble... afer 10-15 minutes of riding my brute starts to loose power.
> I think maybe it is the problem with fuel regulator, but as i read posts in this thread i spoted that you say it might be secondary filter ?
> I dont quite understand what has to be done with second filter ? Where and how to put it out where to drill ???
> 
> My next Cross Country race with my Brute depends on this so please for any help on this issue i will be really gratefull !
> 
> my fb site with brute pictures
> https://www.facebook.com/#!/edi.omerovic.3


Did you change the sock filter on the bottom of the fuel pump assembly? What is your fuel pressure? You really need to measure the fuel pressure so you know which direction to go. It could be plugs crapping out on you. The secondary filter you mentioned is a very small metal screen inside the plastic housing above the fuel pump. It's hard to get at because you have to look down into the housing and its on the side running vertical to the hole. It's hard to explain. Lol


----------



## edi1977

Ok, today we test the fuel pressure... when cold and idling it is 41 PSI, but when i ride with full throttle it began to drop all way down to 20 PSI (you can actually feel the drop of power also)?!
Any suggestions on this guys ?


----------



## 2010Bruterider

edi1977 said:


> Ok, today we test the fuel pressure... when cold and idling it is 41 PSI, but when i ride with full throttle it began to drop all way down to 20 PSI (you can actually feel the drop of power also)?!
> Any suggestions on this guys ?


It's definitely the pump. You need to change the sock filter on the bottom of the pump. Along with tearing out/drilling out that internal screen filter. Replace the pump motor








I got this one off eBay and it worked great. Make sure to add an in line filter between the pump and the injectors. And make sure that filter is for a fuel injected application. 43 psi may destroy a cheap filter and plug your injectors with the filter element. My local napa guy found a filter on the shelf from a new model mustang that worked great.


----------



## edi1977

Ok, its fixed... the problem was with fuel pressure regulator, the pump is ok.
Thanks a lot guys !


----------



## gtsum2

Where did u get the regulator from?


----------



## edi1977

gtsum2 said:


> Where did u get the regulator from?


I dont know exactly. The problem was fixes by authorized kawasaki service and they did not tell me from which motorbike it fits... he only said it matches several model of motorbikes (suzuki, kawasaki, etc).... and that he did me a favour because this part can not be sold separately for BF750 (only complete pump).


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## 1268francis

chek out on eBay there a new compagnie that make fuel pump for the brute force, its called flip, i juste got it on mine for a 100$ and its work great, its as a 1 year warranty, you keep the same canister and fuel gauge, you need to replace de fuel pump only


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## MonsterBF

For those still looking for answers, I have been out of the US for a couple years(military) so my father has had my quad. It has had problems with the pump since I had him start watching it. He doesnt need to ride fast or all the power so I have been taking my time finding a part. Just this last summer I typed something like "08 Brute Force, Fuel pump" into Amazon just to see. Sure as heck a pump came up listed for the BF. It was around $85. My father and brother, neither of which are overly mechanically inclined but have all the common sense in the world, were able to install it. The only issue they said they had was getting it primed but once that was accomplished it ran great. Father says it is scary fast now LOL. Hope this helps save someone some money.


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## Xclio

Just wondering, why don't people run a walbro fuel setup on these bikes?


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## Gallop

*Cnt fuel pump*

anyone try one of these yet? 

Amazon.com: CNT Fuel Pump for Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4x4i Fuel Pump ATV 2008-2013: Automotive


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## irwinrebelrider

hey guys found a factory aftermarket pump for 50 bucks here is the link CNT Fuel Pump for Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4x4i Fuel Pump ATV 2008-2013


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## Nolan19

Alright guys, so ive got mine all tore apart and I ripped the secondary filter up the best that I could. Now I have a couple questions. Now that I ripped the screen it looks like its all bunched up in the bottom of the hole. I shook it and blew compressed air in the hole and it doesnt look like it moved any so should it be alright like that? You guys say that you completely removed it, how in the world are you doing that? And also, i see some guys say that you are drilling the hole to get it out. What size are you drilling the hole out to? Im just wanting to get this done right the first time and not mess anything up.


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## 2010Bruterider

Use the o-ring as your guide. Don't drill out so much the o-ring can't seal. Of course remove said o-ring before actually drilling. Lol. I couldn't get all of mine out either. If you can't pull it out with pliers or blow it out with air, it ain't coming out on its own. It'll be fine. Just remember to install an inline fuel filter. I use one for a 2010 mustang, not GT.


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## Nolan19

2010Bruterider said:


> Use the o-ring as your guide. Don't drill out so much the o-ring can't seal. Of course remove said o-ring before actually drilling. Lol. I couldn't get all of mine out either. If you can't pull it out with pliers or blow it out with air, it ain't coming out on its own. It'll be fine. Just remember to install an inline fuel filter. I use one for a 2010 mustang, not GT.



Ok that makes since. So if the filter piece isn't moving should I even bother with drilling it or does the drilling help with the flow also? And did you use the stock fuel line with the mustang filter or did you run new line?


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## 2010Bruterider

If you tore a big hole in that screen, there's no need to drill. It flowed fine before it stopped up. And you have to use 5/16 rubber fuel line because the stock one it plastic on the inside. I cut my stock line before I realized it was not rubber. It's only rubber sheathed.


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## Nolan19

2010Bruterider said:


> If you tore a big hole in that screen, there's no need to drill. It flowed fine before it stopped up. And you have to use 5/16 rubber fuel line because the stock one it plastic on the inside. I cut my stock line before I realized it was not rubber. It's only rubber sheathed.



Ok awesome, I assumed it was rubber by looking at it. I'm glad I asked lol..... I took an angled pick and stuck it down in the hole and turned it in circles trying to do as much damage to the screen as possible. I think got it ripped up pretty good, I was just worried about the ball of it at the bottom of the hole but I don't think it's moving. I appreciate all the help and the quick responses.


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## 2010Bruterider

No problem man. Good luck with it.


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## Nolan19

Alright guys so I finished up the fuel pump mod this evening and I think everything turned out ok so I thought I would share my experience with it. 

First I would like to say that the whole process was a pretty easy task. Before I got started I was a little intimidated but after doing it I think anyone can tackle it. 

So after I got everything all tore apart and the fuel pump removed I started disassembling the housing to see what exactly was going on. First off the sock filter on the bottom was pretty dirty










To disassemble the rest of the pump you will definitely need a few finish nails to hold all the clips open, you don't have enough hands for this. Then once I got to the top screen filter I could tell that it was starting to clog up as we'll. So I went to my local auto parts store and got a pick set the had a couple different angles to them. I used one of the picks to stick down in the hole to and I started tearing the screen. I just got it started and then rotated the pick around the entire hole until the screen was ripped all up. 

Next I moved on to the fuel line. After removing the factory line, which you can't use because it is hard plastic lined, I installed the new 5/16" fuel injected rubber fuel line. 

Down around the front of the tank by the frame rail is where I installed the new inline filter. It was a little tight but it fit.



















Then I ran the fuel line from there up to the tank and that part was finished. 

Then from there all you have to do is put all your plastics back on, your accessory tray back in and hook your battery back up. 

But before I put the tank back in I drilled (12) 2" holes in the gas tank guard. That thing is definitely a trap for mud, sand or whatever else you ride in. So if you are doing this project I would highly recommend doing this while it is out.









After the job was all done and I took it for the first test ride I can tell that my brute woke up a little bit from how it was before I started. Before if I stabbed the throttle in High gear it would barely lift the front tires. But after this mod I took it out and was cursing around 3-5 MPH in high and stabbed the throttle and it stood right up. 

So I know that others have explained how to do this and all that but I thought I would share my experience and how I went about doing it. Hopefully this will help you get the job done. 

* The only thing I did notice is that when I have sitting at an idle and I pin the throttle to wide open it wants to hesitate a little still. Is this normal for the brutes or do I possibly have another issue somewhere else? *


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## 2010Bruterider

If it's just a hesitation, it could be clutch stall. But if it's a bog in the motor and then it revs up, it could be your tune. Any performance mods?


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## Nolan19

2010Bruterider said:


> If it's just a hesitation, it could be clutch stall. But if it's a bog in the motor and then it revs up, it could be your tune. Any performance mods?



It does it while in neutral as we'll so I don't think it's a clutch issue. It only does it when at idle, if I bring the RPM's up just ever so slightly and then pin it it revs up strong as ever.


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## epco

Just got a good deal on an 08 from a friend after it sat for a while. My symptom is bogging after 1/4 throttle. New fuel didn't work so started with the 1st filter (Flip from amazon), then drilled out the hole at the 2nd filter with a 1/4" bit (could have gone a hair bigger). Have some surgical tools that worked great for tearing it out.

Next is the inline filter and vent relocate.


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## Lithium177

K guys I'm super desperate .. done the filter delete on the output side. Changed the pump and filter.. did the valves. Changed the plugs... checked wiring. I have a 3/4 to wot bog.. please help....


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## 2010Bruterider

Measure the fuel pressure. That will point you in the right direction. if you've got good pressure it could be spark issues. 


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## reimah

Thanks to the forum. I had the same symptoms and fault improved by following these steps.
I can spread the good news of this here in Finland.


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## DlHedrick

I believe something is shutting off the fuel after running for for a minute or less it is then starved of fuel and it shuts down
Need help


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## 2010Bruterider

The roll over sensor will cut off fuel on a FI bike. What are you working on?


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## brute for mud

I have an automotive sock filter on the bottom took out the fine steel screen in the housing and put an automotive filter after the pump and mine is working I used the old pump motor


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## gtsum2

brute for mud said:


> I have an automotive sock filter on the bottom took out the fine steel screen in the housing and put an automotive filter after the pump and mine is working I used the old pump motor




This. Don't need a new fuel pump most of the time. The outer sick filter gets clogged and he inside mesh one does too. I poked out the mesh one as well and an inline filter after the pump when I had my 2012 brute and that fixed all my fuel pump issues (3 times in 1000 miles). Also reran tank vent line up to the handlebar area and put a stone air filter on it


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## simcoeice

Hi Guys.

This thread has really wonderful info in it. 

Mine is now having issues under load, and over 1/2 throttle.

I'll do the new sock filter, pump, and remove the inner filter.

How long does it take to remove plastics, racks and such, and get to the pump?

1.5 hrs or so?

Complete job 4-5 hrs.

Thanks for all the info.

Jeff


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## ian.macmillan

simcoeice said:


> How long does it take to remove plastics, racks and such, and get to the pump?


I'd say you're pretty close in your estimate of 4 hours or so. Just depends on how much of a hurry you're in.

I found this video really helpful for the inner screen removal - none of the threads I read accurately described how to remove it, and this ended up being my problem:







Good luck!


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## simcoeice

Thks for the estimate.

Also a great video showing how to punch through that screen.

Waiting for my pump to arrive, hoping to do the job this long weekend.

I will update.

Jeff


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## tomtom123

Hey guys, 
do I understand the solution rightly? You change the first sock filter, then you destroy the second mesh filter and as a third step you insert an inline fuel filter between the pump and motor?
I am from Germany, can you tell me where I can get a new sock filter?
Thank you
tomtom


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## Paul S

phreebsd said:


> thanks for that information.
> 
> would you happen to have a pic of the actual pump?


Quantum Fuel has full assy & just motor. Got mine thru Amozon. Works great.


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