# Rhino Axles



## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

About to order 2 rears for the brute force. Sick of CV boots falling off stock axles have spent so much on CV boots i could of bought an axle and a half. Also, is anyone having problems with the boots ripping or falling off? they look different and ive read people saying the boots arent great, and when they do rip people are saying its hard to get replacement boots for them. If I replaced the boot myself does it void the warranty? Im going to be running a 2" Lift and HL springs on 29.5 and when i sit on the bike it doesn't budge, only weigh 150 Will i have a problem? I will be ordering them tomorrow night, and fast info would be appreciated!

Also, theres an add on the top of your site saying anything over $399 is free shipping, Im using the MIMB forum discount which is working, but the shipping coupon isn't, does it not work for Canadian shipping?


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## countryboy61283 (Mar 20, 2010)

A boot on any axle can rip, could get punctured or hot and melt but I never seen one just rip by itself or especially just fall off, I'm still running my stock axle and boots and not one problem out of the 2 years I've had it. And u wont have a problem with your set up


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I first tried UNI boots from kawie dealer on my rears in the winter. They were stretched out pretty good but did last for a while. Eventually, The bands on them actually peeled through the boots (3 rears) and then the stock one i still had on the right inner, got some pin holes from ice. Which is acceptable it happens. Then I bought 4 EPI boots, for $25+ a piece. They are too thick, and cant handle even a 2" lift, with saggy springs on the softest setting. the 2 inners were both off yesterday, the outer part of the boot fell off the cup. And these weren't the crappy bands that came with the boots. Had Industrial Zip Ties on them, with a crazy amount of force to hold it on, Still popped right off after about 5 rides since i first put them on. Yes, they will DEFINITELY fall off, most boots cant handle brutes CV angles. The stock boots will! They have big ridges and are thin, which allows them to stretch and work. But at $60+tax up here, they can keep em. That is why i want more info on these CV Boots, because im not changing anymore. Thanks!


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Just bought em. $387 plus tax? Showed tax as 0? Maybe gotta pay it on delivery. Anyway mimb discount $40 thanks guys! I'm hopin I'll get them this week so I can go out this weekend, see if they live up to all the good reviews you guys posted!


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## Silverdollar (Mar 26, 2011)

I ordered for my grizz as well hope they hold up


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## countryboy61283 (Mar 20, 2010)

I can see your frustration lol, hope u get it worked out man


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

And those were just for the rear boots. Had a couple ripped fronts too, but they were stock, they actually got ripped they didn't fall off.


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## hp488 (Sep 23, 2009)

When you replaced the boots was it free from grease on the outside of the cup and the inner lip of the boot? They tend to slip off if there is grease on them.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Yea, but grease will always come out of it right after replacing the boot and driving it forces some of it out


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Axles came in today, But nobody was home to get em.. getting them picked up tomorrow. Can't wait, went out on the weekend and cv boots fell off again. I can finally crank up my springs and get my HL springs ive been waiting for! And most of all i should be able to go out for atleast 1 ride without having to spend 3 hours cleaning CV's afterwards..

I will take pics of them compared to stock also


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## chevzr2 (Nov 25, 2009)

i got them for my brute too, must have had a dud, stripped the splines off the left front but talked to them today and they are covering it no problem! and all along i thought i blew my front diff!!


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

ouch, yeah i hope i dont have any problems with mine. Uhh just a question, why do they look so short? plunge joint all the way in on rhino and all the way out on stock? Id like to see a pic of them on the inside, and how big they are compared to gorilla's. Also, did they come with any stickers?:bigok:


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## chevzr2 (Nov 25, 2009)

stock one has a blown cv so it looks longer! just together for the picture! no stickers.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Dang wanted some stickers.:33: anyway, was just watching vids and found this.. 




I know most of you here are American but. that vid was pretty slanderous and dumb. Both axles are made from the same material, 4340 chromolly steel, not just gorrila. Only difference is design, and even those differences were very small. It brought a smile to my face when all the comments said the rhino was better and test was bogus.. But thats IMO


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Should have asked earlier, does anyone have problems with these cv boots and axles with high speeds? Going to guess no but wanna make sure


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## chevzr2 (Nov 25, 2009)

not so far and we usually run 7-10 miles of road at at time at 60+mph!


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Lies! My stock axle plunged... so, they are full of *&^% Every stock axle I've seen does that... So Im not sure where they get off saying a stock axle doesnt plunge.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I think that was the outerjoint, not inner. Also, notice where they hit? on the side of the cage/race? That has nothing to do with the axles strength?!?! the fact that gorilla's is so wide would just create more heat. Its hard to explain over typing but, the gorilla's cage its just wider, the width of the cage has nothing to do with it, The Circumference is where the strength is needed, that is where all the force is applied.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Yeah well, the video was Made by gorilla & gorilla people so... what do you expect.... of course they are going to bash other products and praise their own.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

yea :agreed:, but in there comments they said exactly: 


 I don't see super atv on the web with a smear campaign?? Why don't you have some class Gorilla. They﻿ offer a great product at a third of the price!! Find a way to keep prices competative or get out of the way.


johnd556 1 week ago
 @johnd556 Comparing our product to our competitors and then publishing the results isn't a "smear campaign", it's called marketing. Companies have been doing it for years now. Their prices are cheaper than ours (not a third though) because all of their products are made in China,﻿ probably by some 12 year old girl working for cookies. 


GorillaAxle 1 week ago
Uhm.. that comment saying that video wasn't slanderous, was slanderous.:thinking:


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Exactly. That's the kind of people/company they are. I'll buy from someone else, or do without. Thats just me.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

:agreed: I finally got em on! heres pics:


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

And more...

Maybe my spring arent so bad, those axle angles are right after i dropped the jack no riding, but it won't move much at all..

Only noticeable downsides so far: No new cotterkey/pin, Hard to get in diff, one only went in half way, had to take it out and put it in again for it to go all the way in.


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## backwoodsboy70 (Oct 26, 2010)

those look purty , i want !!!!


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Just took it up and down the driveway a few times, boots are alright, I just hope to god they never rip, or fall off. It worries me though that theirs a greyish, rubber strain in the center of boots.


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## The Kid (May 26, 2011)

i hate monkey axles and the people there too, i work at a shop and have to deal with them, they are stuck on them selves so much


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

I just ordered 4 also, so we will see how they do! Think I'm still running the 32's from when I had the lift unless I can trade for 31's


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

The Kid said:


> they are stuck on them selves so much


thats a very good way to describe it.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I will be ordering 2 fronts also if these work out. inner boots kinda scare me though.. i sprayed the bike off yesterday, there so thin the ridges collapse from a regular hose. And if the ridges collapse while driving, thats it, i caught it before putting it back in the garage luckily. Ill be going out tomorrow, so well see. Just so freaking sick of fixing CV boots on this bike, what a pain.


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

hmmmmmm, hope they work out. Boots are easy to change so thats no biggie to me. I just need to find a good fitting boot.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Well so far boots are fine, but noticed something else. in pics on SuperATV site, of the axle the outer joints are painted black, as you can see in pics mine were not. And there rusting already??


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## LM83 (Jul 23, 2010)

I'm running 31s on stock axles, 2"+05' springs. Everythings worked SO FAR. Broke one rear the other day but the boot was torn. I replaced it with another stock axle. Keep us updated on the rhinos.


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

Waddaman said:


> Well so far boots are fine, but noticed something else. in pics on SuperATV site, of the axle the outer joints are painted black, as you can see in pics mine were not. And there rusting already??


I'll let you know what mine are. In some pics I see they have updated boots...like a full ridged boot, not the one like you posted with a space of flat to it. I'll be returning mine if they are not up to quality...


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

All the boots are the same as pics on their site. And they aren't peeling open or falling off so . Im just worried about my outer joint. Thought it was made from 4340 chromoly? and if its not should i paint it before it rusts anymore??


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

I don't know anything about the 4340, but I would think the paint would come off. You could do it...I may if I do that but I will look at them...


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

oem on left, rhino on right.

If mine doesn't have those boots there is a chance they are going back.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

that's a different bike axle though. Theres no area for wheel berring, spilines are different and threads for castle nut is different. Also inner cup is bigger.


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

Did you read the thread? I did and they made it seem like that was a brute axle. IDK why they would compare to a brute axle if it wasn't. They were talking about the bar diameter. I thought the splines were different though...


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

They didn't saying anything about a brute force. just talking about axles, to me. the first pic comparing aftermarket too stock the stock was a brute axle, but im sure the aftermarket one wasn't for brute, there was not bare area on outer joint for the wheel berring


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

answer to rust question:

hey,The older style axles we used to carry all had black ends on them at one point. Now we have pretty much switched it all over to this shine metal with different suppliers. The Rust may happen depending on the weather and what all gets on the finish. This will not affect the longevity or strength of the CV joint or axle. Hope this helps. 

Thanks,
Jordan
SuperAtv 

On Sun, Jun 12, 2011 at 8:04 PM, Niklas Roy <waddaman> wrote:
Just a question. I ordered 2 rear axles a couple weeks ago, got em in this week took em out on the weekend. Today i noticed that the outer joint, is rusting. I look at your pictures posted for brute force rhino axles, and the outer joints are painted black. Why aren't mine? should they be painted? and will i have a problem? Will they break down from rust and become weak? thanks. Picture is of when i got them new.


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

I guess I'll be painting mine...I'll have to take a good look at them and make sure that is what I really want before putting them on....


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

Got em yesterday, unpackaged and everything looks great

That pic we thought was a different bike is just a front. I'll post pics of mine later. Rears have the large boot still....seems like a tough boot. I'm going to paint the bare metal on mine though...just in case.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Pics? I'll be getting fronts soon enough. I'd paint em, it won't do anything but rust just lOoks bad.


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

Why is this my luck every time? I'm so sick of this crap...

All the axles LOOKED right...but the front left inner splines are not machined right...wont go in past a certain point, I figured out why! They are machined on an angle...what the heck. Look how it curves to the left!

I did the RGA number for their warranty claim and I refuse to pay shipping since this is a manufacturing defect, but what the heck...why does this always happen to me???

I knew I should have bought rilla's. I'm debating sending them all back. Seems like a waste of money already


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

That sucks man really... But fact is that ALL companies that make axles have defects. You can get unlucky and believe me, im the same way, i was sure id get a dud. They will get you a new one asap. There supposed to have great service and back there stuff. I would stay with rhino's. Ive done ALOT of research IMO ive seen better performance, And most even swearing rhino's were better then gorilla. Rhino's customer service is better also. The ONLY problem ive seen about these axles, is that they send out duds more then gorilla, BUT gorilla does send duds also. I know, it sucks. You have every right to be mad. But, Id stick with them for the fact that people say rhino's are better, they back there products more, and it's HALF the price of gorilla's.

What I have to say to SUPERATV - Monitor what your sending out much closer. You're selling great stuff and have awesome customer service, but your sending out bad stuff some times, and no doubt losing money from it. And not only that losing customers no doubt. A simple mistake that's making you lose money, Why isn't it being fixed?


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

o ricky o ricky dude you need a honda 300 with your luck runs like a champ even when gf's sink em axles dont break on em and rear sra is tough just like any sra lol....or better yet you better just buy something stock and ride around like a grandpa but what fun is that hopefully you get something figured out before the 4th ride lol......sucks none the less


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

Thanks guys, I'm sure they will take care of me. I didn't even realize it was messed up until installing.

I took the c clip off after it wasn't going in right, then I hit it a few good times with a hammer and it still wouldn't sit right. Took it out and saw it like this. There is a groove where you can see it straighten out and thats where it won't let it go any further.

Like i said, calling them in the AM and hopefully this all works out. I'm pretty upset about this...I don't have a doubt they will make it right though


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

lilbigtonka said:


> o ricky o ricky dude you need a honda 300 with your luck runs like a champ even when gf's sink em axles dont break on em and rear sra is tough just like any sra lol....or better yet you better just buy something stock and ride around like a grandpa but what fun is that hopefully you get something figured out before the 4th ride lol......sucks none the less


I was debating getting a new brute or can am...just the thing is that mine is already mine and has a LOT of new parts and aftermarket parts. I've thought about starting over again but it's not worth it...

If anything I'd probably go can-am...31's lift, exhaust snorkel rad, radio and done! Thats how my camo brute was forever (on 29.5) and never had any problems...want to go back to that!


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

i hear ya on that i redid my stereo and im done this time i can play it all day without killing my electronics and going waco on wiring and starting a fire lol...last weekend at myakka our bikes all seem to run the best they ever have and hope to keep it that way.....but back on topic im sure superatv will def take care of you i know if mine breaks im def gonna be calling superatv no doubt in my mind.....


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

Yea it's just a dud. Hopefully they replace it no problem. I just have horrible luck...


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Are you SURE it looked like that before you hammered on it?? 

Not trying to start anything but, when I tried to put my axle back in (stock) from replacing a boot, I didnt have it lined up perfectly, hit it w/ a dead blow & it wouldnt budge, hit it a few more times... took it back out, and thats what a few splines looked like..... (rekon I boogered them up when I beat on it) took some coaching but I got the messed up ones back strait & got it to go in.

So just saying, could they have been straight before you tried to put it in? B/c Im positive it not being lined up right & me beating on it is what boogered up mine.


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

You can actually see where they cut the splines and in between where the c clip goes if you take a straight blade...they don't line up. The cutting machine was definetly off for this batch....

I did hammer it in...but I didn't use enough force to twist the splines lol...the whole shaft is twisted it seems.

Anyways, superatv hooked me up, sending a new one today  No questions asked. I sent em the pic


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Awesome! Again I wasnt trying to imply Anything honestly... I know just I personally boogerd mine up myself... lol I was at least able to fix it though.


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

I wish I could fix this, I hate sending stuff in. I messed with it for quite a while. It just seems like the machining is wrong. I did mushroom the threads a bit not noticing the problem at first I was trying to bang it in there pretty good. It still had the C clip on at that point and I thought it was like a rilla which takes an APE arm to get it in and out of the diff


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

You still had to send the Dud back right? you sent pics to them, they sent theirs and your sending yours back?


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

Yes, they are sending me a call tag (i guess prepaid shipping?) and they sent the axle out already. The picture was enough for them. He said it was definetly machined wrong


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

good deal now atleast you got one company who answer your needs/problems lol which is the way it should be just for that i can say i will be ordering rhinos when mine goes not no cough cough texas stuff lol


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## jrpro130 (May 10, 2009)

Yea, I really don't like anything from texas anymore...seems like just about everything from there I got screwed with...TC, the guy that ripped me off with axles, etc. Just not good!

I hope this new axle is not a dud either though! looking at it again the whole thing was cut wrong. I know I said it before but I'm lookin at it now


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Going to update this a bit, got 2 fronts to match the rears and going to do a little review of sorts.

Strength for price: superb, running 840 29.5 laws and 2" lift with 1" pipe spacers and I broke 1 rear but I think it was because of another reason.

Customer service: Top notch %90 of them time. Sometimes you can get a guy if your emailing or calling that is completely unhelpful or rude, but most of them are top notch. Even If you do get a bad guy just call or send another email and you'll get good service.

Build quality.. %60: why? 1. The Cv boots suck, period. The rear's for the brute especially, the fronts look a lot better though. A traditional boot design with extra ridges and length that will handle big angles is much better then trying to drastically change design and sacrifice strength.

2. C clips on these axles are freaking pathetic, and unless you have heavy special equipment OR want to ship your axles back to super ATV every time you rip a boot good luck changing boots.

Rear Axles Outer joint you will literally bust the CV itself before you get it off. Clip inside will not compress period.

Rear Axles inner joint is possible to get off but not without busting the clip inside, and most likely damaging the splines while your at it. And the only reason I believe it is possible is because the inner joint works by sliding on splines on the main shaft(see more info farther down) you can slide the joint all the way back and slide it forward really fast. The velosity helps in basically jamming the C clip, then you need somebody to hold pressure by pulling on it while on person hits the cup off. (hitting all the way around the joint not just one spot).


The front axles I haven't had apart as I just got them today, but I imagine it's the same deal.. With the exception both inner and outer joints "Plunge". Also on the front right notice the the inner joint where the seal surface is supposed to go is much larger?? not sure why but it works.

All the C clips that go into the diff's were Ok minus one. both rears go in the diff easy and properly. The Front right does as well, The front left you can see the clip is clearly different and doesn't work (also has a Oring underneath it in the groove??) Tried to use that, didn't work. Clip bent all out of shape and messed up a spline a bit. (I had the splines lined up and everything, wasn't an alignment issue)

Also, of course most CV clips inside the rhino axles are not easily gotten, they are a specialty size and don't match any kawi C clips, also the widths are different as well as diameter

Info: As I stated above, the inner CV in the rear and both CV's on the front for rhinos have a stationary CV and components (like an outer joint from an outer rear, or OEM outer CV) And the inner rhino rears/rhino fronts unlike OEM slide on the the axle bar or shaft and the CV and components stay put. Basically for the inner joints the components are all on the very edge of the cup and inside all behind them is open space for the shaft to travel in and out.

The bad about that? bust a CV and try to drive home, you likely going to destroy the splines on the shaft. Unline an oem where there are no splines and the CV alone is designated for plunging.

If any needs info on these axles give me a shout. Here's pics of fronts:


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## bigblackbrute (Jun 3, 2009)

Man yall sure do have a lot more trouble out rhinos than me. I've been running the on the rear for bout 2 years on tore 2 boots and had no trouble at all changing them broke to axles due to my thumb and had them easily replaced. 

FATBOYZ CUSTOMZ


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

You don't have to tell me about it lol. I'm getting pretty **** sick of it though... if crap like this keeps happening brute might be gone soon, the bike itself is great but cv boots, bearings and junk like that is just getting ridiculous.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Well I'm sitting here in a trail stranded again. Left rear Rhino axle brand new just warranties second trip out about 3 hours ride time on it and inner joint busted driving in a straight line on grass. Pathetic.

Also going to say this is it brutes going up for salecan't afford this anymore and can't keep other maintained, I go out about every weekend for a few hours and it's 3 days labour to repair it. And always $200+

What ever I get next it won't have any super atv products on it.


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## CRAZYCRACKAZ71 (Oct 8, 2011)

^^ ur having alot of trouble with them. i have yet to break on or bust a boot on mine yet. are urs going cuz the boots in a bad anle and stressed.?


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## No_Substitue_For_A_Brute (May 4, 2011)

Waddaman said:


> Well I'm sitting here in a trail stranded again. Left rear Rhino axle brand new just warranties second trip out about 3 hours ride time on it and inner joint busted driving in a straight line on grass. Pathetic.
> 
> Also going to say this is it brutes going up for salecan't afford this anymore and can't keep other maintained, I go out about every weekend for a few hours and it's 3 days labour to repair it. And always $200+
> 
> What ever I get next it won't have any super atv products on it.


Looking at your signature post you have about 3" of lift on the bike correct?
It says:
2" Old Style Highlifter bracket Lift
1" Custom Stainless Steel Spring Spacers 

That is going to kill almost any axle. I don't care what brand it is. Take the spacers out of it and have only the lift. You will clear your 29.5s fine with just it. 

I'm running all wide 29.5s with rhino rears and have had zero issues. I'm not scared to really beat on the rears either in 2wd and they hold up perfect. 

Just my humble opinion but I can't see anything holding up to a lift AND spacers AND an 840. I'd be willing to bet take the spacers back out and get the angles back down a bit and things should go much better for you.


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## SuperATV (May 3, 2010)

No_Substitue_For_A_Brute said:


> Looking at your signature post you have about 3" of lift on the bike correct?
> It says:
> 2" Old Style Highlifter bracket Lift
> 1" Custom Stainless Steel Spring Spacers
> ...



x2 give that a shot, I have many customers running this axles with 0 issues what so ever.


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## JPs300 (Mar 23, 2011)

While I agree that excessive angle & power is a recipe for broken joints, the boots are still garbage and they are very hit/miss as to whether or not you can get the joints to pop off the shaft. - I took a section of 1-1/4x.120" DOM tubing, notched it roughly 45, then split from the center of that out towards the outside over roughly 6" of length. I can set it on around the shaft and the lower angle sits flat on 2/3 of the inner joint "star" thus giving me a solid drive reasonably square onto the joint with a BFH. 

I'll try to remember to get a pic of my "tool", it's at my buddy's house right now because he's having to diss-assemble two of his rhino's right now to swap some quality boots on.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

The 1" spring spacers are there only because my springs can't be pulled down and taking apart by hand they are sagged so much. And I am taking them out to remove all variables and most likely to sell so the next person doesn't have these problems.

And yes it is an angle and it is a lot of power but, I literally haven't touched a mud hole, abused it, or done anything to that brand new warrantied axle. I was driving like an old man through a **** field because I was easing back into things after my last axle broke in the same spot and made the **** thing roll over top of me. And it broke, again. Max speed maybe 15kmh on flat grass and it broke, really?


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## sloboy (Oct 11, 2010)

I dont know what to tell you. The Rhino brand axles in my rhino are at some pretty funky angles, I strike out to the store (4 high miles) all the time and no issues. I know they are getting hot the exhaust is right above them and I have my rear diff greased, so I expect an increase in temp there as well. I have heard there is a "break in procedure" for axles but have not seen anything in writing.


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## outskirtsdweller (Jul 6, 2009)

JPs300 said:


> While I agree that excessive angle & power is a recipe for broken joints, the boots are still garbage and they are very hit/miss as to whether or not you can get the joints to pop off the shaft. - I took a section of 1-1/4x.120" DOM tubing, notched it roughly 45, then split from the center of that out towards the outside over roughly 6" of length. I can set it on around the shaft and the lower angle sits flat on 2/3 of the inner joint "star" thus giving me a solid drive reasonably square onto the joint with a BFH.
> 
> I'll try to remember to get a pic of my "tool", it's at my buddy's house right now because he's having to diss-assemble two of his rhino's right now to swap some quality boots on.


These axles have held up good for me, but I agree, if you have disassemble and outer joint for cleaning in order to replace a bad boot I hope you have better luck than me. The outer joints are dang near impossible to disassemble with the traditional whack from a big hammer. They told me that they have some kind a godzilla press to separate the outer joints.


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