# 05 Brute Project



## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

After a few trades my dad ended up with an 05 Brute Force 750. The guy he got it from said he was riding it up his driveway and it just died. The guy had just "had the heads reworked" prior to this happening. He said he pulled the side cover off and confirmed it jumped time then he needed a vehicle and traded it for an old car of my dads. 

My dad had this thing for something like 6 months and I finally asked him if I could just buy it from him and fix it for myself to which he just gives it to me. I drove 5 hours up to get it and one speeding ticket later I have myself a dogged out brute force that is now my project to turn into a reliable machine.

It came with a 2" highlifter lift, a gorilla rad relocate, not sure what clutch springs and weights but is one of the vpi kits, a moose module, and the rims say superatv on the hubcaps. Along with that it came with about a 1/4" thick layer of mud.....on everything.

After bringing it home on Sunday, I have stripped the thing down, every piece of plastic down to the bare frame. Also taking the motor out in the process. Then I pressure washed all of the mud off of everything and now have a clean brute(aside from the motor but that's a different story). 

So the bike came with a motor that had already had the process of taking apart started, which is a pain and I'm sorry for anyone else that goes through this. It came with a bucket full of rusty bolts and parts that I'm going to have to replace..... but I now have the motor off and confirmed the timing was definitely off and have now ordered the chains and guides for it along with a new battery. Supposedly setting the time would have had this thing started, so putting new components in should prove it a reliable motor. I hope. It too has a layer of dirt on it but since it came with the side cover off I'm afraid to clean it until I get it back together. 

All of my parts should be here Thursday so hopefully I can at least get this thing started this weekend.

So far my list of goals for this thing are the following(in order):
1. Replace timing chains and guides and put motor together.
2. Get replacements for all stripped, rusted, and missing hardware. 
3. Replace all axle boots and right rear axle which has a broken CV cage I think is what it's called?(supposedly have all parts needed to fix it in my bucket)
4. Put all new fluids including radiator, diffs, and motor. Maybe brakes.
5. Eventually get all things greased up.
5 and 1/2. Dielectric grease electronics
6. Snorkel
7. Rims and Tires
8. Exhaust
9. Lights and Audio

This list is definitely subject to change as I find new things wrong with it as I'm sure they are limitless with this thing sitting for so long. 

If you have any questions or anything let me know. I'm going to TRY to get pictures of everything along the way and keep them posted. Never really worked with anything inside of a motor so this should definitely be interesting. Most I've ever done is build a pit bike with a bought motor. But all components of that thing just bolted on. 

I'm sure all of this was long to read, but thanks for taking the time. Also not sure if this is even the correct place to post this but it seemed right.
Pictures are in reverse order from getting it to now.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Some more pictures.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Never enough pictures. If someone has any suggestions just remember that I'm a newb at this stuff so I will take absolutely nothing offensively.


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

Download a service manual for an 05 - 07 750 . It will be one of the best investments you make for this project . You can become a member here for around 9 dollars , and will have ACESS to a service manual from this site .


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Thanks I found one on quadconnection for free for an 05 so I'm all set. Put in new timing chains and guides today. Hopefully Friday I'll have a new battery and get all my electrical figured out and put back together and maybe it will run.


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## rmax (Nov 21, 2009)

I hope it didn't have a value strike when it jumped time also being a 05 you need to look for the rear buss connector to confirm the mod has be done (threads on here about it) being a old murder it probably has been done already the best cure for 05&06 wiring is to get a 07 wording harness gets rid of all 3 connectors


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Awesome man yeah it does have the buss connector mod but it was definitely poorly done and there are a ton of loose wires all over the place. Everything seems to check out fine except the fact I'm not getting spark... Guess I'm going to just get a new wiring harness and redo the whole thing just because of how bad it is now. Other than that tough, she is ready to go as soon as I get the wiring straightened out.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Alright guys maybe y'all can help me out. I'm thinking this may just wind up being something stupid that I'm missing. These pictures show some of the wiring job and also a few plug ins that I can't seem to find anything for them to plug into.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)




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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

And the black and white wire coming out of the relay(??? I guess) is going to no where.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

After researching I've found that a few of the plugs going to nothing are for the radiator.


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

I think I would look for another wire harness - someone really hacked into that one . And this is why we need service manuals . Removing and installing a new wire harness isn't real hard to do . In your situation,you may need to mark and trace those hacked wires to see where they go and check them with the electrical schematic .


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Yeah think I'm going to have to.


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

Heres a couple from ebay..... Shoot for an 07 750 harness because the buss connectors are fixed on them already....or you can fix them on the 05 - 06 harness ....
 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4X4I 05 07 Wiring Harness 8641 | eBay 
 2006 Brute Force 750 Wiring Harness Electrical Loom KVF750 750i | eBay


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Thanks a lot! I've been talking to Brute 840 a lot and have already ordered stuff from him, he has been a big help and giving me some great deals on things, he has a harness I'm going to get from him. Maybe I can have this thing running before too long. :hmmm:


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

If anybody else has any helpful tips or anything feel free to throw them at me. Like I said earlier, I'm new so every bit of info is helpful. Been doing a lot of researching.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Okay I need someones's help. I got this wiring harness installed and everything seems good but I still have no spark. Checked the voltage on my bike down sensor and it's good. Could it still be something with timing? Pretty sure I got it right but I'm not claiming to be perfect. Kind of confused on the coil testing? Is there anything obvious I could be missing?


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

Id take a volt meter to one of the coils , and check to see if voltage is being sent anytime to one of the coils .


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Yeah both of them have over 12 volts when i put the leads on both of the poles going into the coils. Does this mean I have bad coils? I just don't see this being the issue if it was running and just died out of nowhere.

---------- Post added at 08:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

I just want to get this thing running so I cant start riding it. I suck with having patience.


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

Do the coil test procedure from the manual , check the spark plug boot resistors to see if they are bad . I think the boot resistors are 5 K ohms , mine read at 1.5Kohms and still work , but with them in the boots , the quad runs horrible . I went with the spark plug wire/boot mod .


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Also my 4x4 and 2x4 lights are flashing back and forth.


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

Well then she is probably running like poop too . Do the belt light reset procedure for now to correct that - keep in mind when doing the belt light reset procedure , you should also check the belt trip switch in the belt cover , to insure the switch is positioned to the rear of the quad .


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

as of now, there is no belt cover even on the quad. will it not get spark without it on? And to reference that it is probably running like poop, it isn't, because it isn't getting any spark for me to know how it is running. hahaha and also on the belt cover, the two wires coming out of the top are stripped at the end with no plug on them. :thinking::bigeyes:


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

The two wires would be the belt trip switch wires - I believe you can wire nut the two wires for now . With those two wires hanging out in the breeze , the 2wd/4wd light will be flashing and put the engine into limp mode - Hence connect those wires together and do a belt light reset . Even with all that the way it is , the engine should still fire . The front and rear cams are different and must be installed properly to get her to run right . If you are getting voltage to the coils , did you check the plug boot resistors yet and ohm them out to see if they are good ?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...l4CAAg&usg=AFQjCNFt0n4KBYCCE-TkhlCc8v8ya6ycGg


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

I'll have to look at it when I get home but I'm pretty sure mine doesn't have both colored plugins... and my multimeter doesn't test resistance so I just bought more coils, and a bunch of other stuff. If it doesn't work then, I guess either my camshaft sensor is messed up or timing is still off. Then I will go back to that, but for now it can't hurt to go ahead and replace all of this stuff. I just don't know that I could trust what is on there now once I get out on a trail. With everything replace, at least I can know I can trust it.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Alright so I know whatever answer I get to this question isn't going to be what I want to here. I have replaced every single electrical thing on this four wheeler except the stator and crank sensor. Literally. CDI, coils, wiring harness, big waste of money, still no spark. Took the cover back off and when I'm turning the motor over by hand getting this weird squeaking noise in front and back cylinders? What is it? MxRacer527 - MudInMyBlood on Vimeo listen in between the clicks. Also my flywheel seems to spin like it has a little bit of a bend in it almost like a crooked bike tire. Is that a big deal? Definitely in need of help...


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Could the speed sensor or anything be keeping it from sparking? I just don't get it.

---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:12 PM ----------

I'll probably just take it to one of my old motocross sponsors tomorrow morning.


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

The roll over sensor can keep it from getting spark - remove it from the mount and shake it around a little - re install it . If that dont work then test it with a volt meter . And a multimeter has an ohms scale to test those plug boot resistors .


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Alright I checked all of it with a multimeter and it is all within spec. Also, I have replaced all of it but the stator. Maybe I should just get a new one and maybe it will work.


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

There's talk about this issue on another site , and is here any possibility that the flywheel may have sheared the key on the shaft where the pull start is ? It happens , but usually only after someone has had it apart once before .


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Well it was apart when I got it and I saw that I needed a woodruff key so I got one and put it in, it hasn't ran to shear the key yet. Unless there is another key I need in it?


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

This is just really frustrating because I bought a wiring harness, no luck. CDI,Roll over sensor, regulator, starter circuit relays, solenoid, coils, spark plug wires, no spark. I can't see it being a shorted wire or something because it is all off a working bike? So if anyone needs any of those parts, I have some for sale. The only thing I haven't changed is the flywheel, stator, or crankshaft sensor. Aside from all of that, what else could it be? The run switch is obviously working because with it off, the starter won't turn, with it on, the starter will turn. I checked the stator and all for resistance and it checks out ok with the manual. I don't have a peak voltage tester, and the manual gives voltage reading for when the bike is running. Does anyone have any advice?

---------- Post added at 09:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 AM ----------

Sorry for the triple post, but it has got to be something completely stupid. All fuses are good.


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

I know this is a long shot here but by any chance did you insure that the two white colored plugs up under the pod area are properly connected to the correct color coded wires on the harness ? They can plug into either plug , but if not properly going to the correct plug connector , your ECU wiring can burn up ,the starter will still turn over with no spark. I did this boo boo once when I swapped out frames . YOU HAVE TO LOOK AT THE WIRE COLORS TO MATCH THE PLUGS .


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Yeah I just checked that as soon as I got home. Not it.  I kind of wish it was at this point. I definitely wouldn't put it past me.

---------- Post added at 05:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:23 PM ----------

i wonder if the timing projection of the flywheel could be the problem because it has a good bit of rust and corrosion on it. What do ya'll think? All of these parts sat out in the weather for a while and rusted. Due to the previous owner. Remember, I just got the thing. Would that completely prevent it from sparking?


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

I sent you a private message , and you should fill out your signature of what area you live in , sometimes other members here are willing to help out .


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

How about the crank sensor - was that checked ? A post came up on another site about this same topic .


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

I have one coming in tomorrow along with flywheel and stator. Have my fingers crossed, the resistance checked out right on mine but I don't have a peak voltage meter so what the heck right? Why not go ahead and change it.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

I HAVE SPARK!!!! Branused crank sensor, stator, and flywheel fixed it. Don't know which of the three but i have spark. No I have no fuel getting to carbs....

---------- Post added at 07:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:20 PM ----------

Yes gas is in the tank! Haha


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

No fuel should be easy .First do you have good cylinder compression ?If so I would pull the carb feed line and feed it into a bottle to see how much fuel the pump is pumping when turning it over - with a fresh dry system , it would be good to turn the fuel selector to PRI position, then return it back to ON once you have fuel . If further problems ,does the quad still have a vacuum pump - if so check the vacuum lines from the heads to the pump, or install a Mr. Gasket 42s electric fuel pump mod. Have you pulled the tank feed line and valve to check it or clean the pick up tube with the screen on it.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Alright, turned it on prime, pulled the feed line, pushed the starter button, no gas coming out.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Alright dman, since you're about the only one helping me. I need more of your help. Is this the right way the pump is supposed to be hooked up? I have no idea and have looked for references but no luck. Also I'm not sure about compression, I really need to rent a compression tester and check it....


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

It looks like the black diaphragm pump is connected wrong .I attract he'd pics for help .


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

Here's another pic .


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

That's page 98 of the manual you downloaded .Also you will see that your pump is not mounted correctly from the way the factory mounted it .Fix the pump connections first ,and then see what happens . As for compression , go to Harbor Freight and buy the compression tester made by US GENERAL model # 66216 or rent on from Auto Zone or Advanced Auto - I think they rent for free .

---------- Post added at 11:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 AM ----------

Manual


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Alright, I pulled my pump off and it checked out ok, i think the pump must be off of a different quad or 07 because it works fine and is hooked up ok. I am really starting to think my problem with it not pumping is due to lack of compression. It hasn't sounded right since I put it back together. Just sounds like it is spinning inside the cylinders and the exhaust isn't putting out any noise. I may wind up just pulling the motor back out, tearing down the heads, and putting new pistons in it and rechecking everything. My luck. I tried renting a compression checker from my local advance store and they don't rent one? Guess I'll go to oreilly's tomorrow. But for now I'm stuck until tomorrow. Time to go in and watch football. 


I'm trying to actually keep this updated unlike a lot of other problem threads where people just look for help and leave. When I get everything done I will try and reformat all of this to make it more informational. But for now, I'm going to keep trying to solve my problems.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Well it looks as though I am lacking a key part of starting an engine, compression. Time to start saving some funds and tearing in to this thing. May be a while before I get back at it on here.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Brute 840 gave me the idea to pour a little oil done each head last night and try again and after doing so I have compression. A good bit in the front and definitely a little less in the rear. I don't have a tester this is just based off my finger feeling the air. It isn't firing though, it is getting spark and fuel though. Which is what it needs to start right? Maybe just too low of compression? Even if I set the timing wrong on the thing, it would still try to start right?


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Pulled my motor out last night. Time to start tearing it down tonight.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Alright, got the motor apart and definitely need new pistons and 2 valves on each cylinder. They are the smaller of the two, not sure if intake or exhaust. But anyways, does anyone know if the namura pistons are trustworthy? or are they just going to crap out on me sooner that a piston should? Basically, is it worth the money to go ahead and get a wiseco, maybe even high comp? 


Also, if I were to go high comp, would I need anything else or just the pistons?


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## ICRage42 (Nov 13, 2013)

I would go with one of the builders here sells. You can get the valves springs and pistons and rings hc from them for really almost the same price. Ive used wisecos but not sure how well they are on brutes. As for hc pistons you can get by with stock valves and springs. From the builders tho its a better quality imo and what I plan on doing.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Awesome thanks for the input. Just going to go completely stock. Not really looking for huge power gains just want the dang thing to run. Maybe after I enjoy it stock for a year or two I can start putting real money into it.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Not sure how this happens but I put my new exhaust valves in and went to lap my old intakes in and sure enough they are bent too. So all 8 valves were bent. How does this happen?


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

You had timing off when you put chains in the first time maybe


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Yeah I'm definitely starting to believe that. I did it verbatim how the manual said, but I think I mistook what it said. Should have it all done Tuesday and have it started up.


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

Take your time


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

I FINALLY HAVE LIFE!!! Got it going enough last night I was able to drive it up and down the driveway. Slowly. My 2WD/4WD light is still flashing, which it wasn't doing when I got it, did the belt light reset on it. And also, it won't rev high it starts to bog. Definitely a carb issue there.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

I think my revving issue is due to the valves being adjusted to when I set the timing wrong, so I'd say valves def need to be adjusted and should fix it.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Alright if anyone is still reading this, I fixed the valve clearances and it definitely took care of a ticking problem I was having. It actually sounds really good now, but it will idle fine and rev to about quarter throttle perfectly. Then it just bogs and backfires with anything past that, if I hold it at half throttle it will slowly gain rpm's to max rpm but when it does this the pipe glows red. Any ideas?

I did silicone the choke plungers in the carbs because my cables were broke.


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

If pipes r glowing it's lean for sure when u done chokes did u put the brass plunger then spring then the black cap?


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Brute 840 said:


> If pipes r glowing it's lean for sure when u done chokes did u put the brass plunger then spring then the black cap?


Correct, that is the order I did them. Just stuck them in with silicone bead around them and also put a glob up in the boot itself. Then stuck them in. Maybe I should just buy new choke cables and fix it the proper way. :thinking: It really does sound like the chokes to me. It seems like I am having every problem any brute owner has ever had all at one time.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

And it also sounds like one of your CV slides isn't working. May be stuck or a cracked diaphragm.


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

I've read about that. Maybe I installed them wrong? or to the wrong sides? to they have a correct side?


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

After tinkering tonight, it runs perfect if I cover up the hole a little bit on the front of the air box. I mean it runs like a champ when I do that. Is there supposed to be some kind of cover on it or something? What would fix this?

---------- Post added at 08:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

Answered my own question. Found in the manual there is supposed to be a cover. I'll just go ahead and snorkel it instead of wastin $20 for the cover.


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

If u r puttin your hand on the front of the air box that creates sucktion and will make one run right with a bad diaphragm or bad plunger the coner won't b against it like that so that isn't your fix I don't think


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

:shhh: don't tell me that! I'm excited. lol I'm not even touching the hole with my hand, just cupping my hand and holding it about 1.5 to 2 inches away from the hole. I think throwing a snorkel on it will fix my problem regardless. I pulled the caps off the carbs and the rubber in them looks fine and is seated properly. The slides are working like they should as well. If you still think it is something like that just let me know and I can replace them, but I wasn't actually blocking off the hole, just holding my hand a little ways away from it. Still think that's what it is? p.s. sorry for long post to read


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## MxRacer527 (Aug 27, 2014)

Finally got her running right! New jets did it! 150 front and 155 rear with needle on 4th notch shimmed with two washers.


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