# Plowing Front Dive



## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

So as y'all can see from my avatar I plow snow, with a heavy plow. Problem I have is the bike sinks like 3 inches in the front before the plow ever leaves the ground! Does anyone have any ideas as to what I could do to make it not do this? I've looked into a cheap 2 in lift on eBay for like 17 bucks, but am not too sure if that would help?


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## oldmanbrute (Apr 15, 2009)

A cheap lift would just bend/break with that kind of weight. Maybe one of those Twisted Custom Lifts might work..........JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!

My best guess would be stiffer springs, I'm sure more folks will chime in.


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## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

oldmanbrute said:


> A cheap lift would just bend/break with that kind of weight. Maybe one of those Twisted Custom Lifts might work..........JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!


Lol, from what I've been reading on here, isn't "cheap lift" and "twisted customs" kind of redundant?


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

not redundant, just a joke  haha

Spacers under the springs would probably help. I think thats what most do.


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## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

There's nothing I hate more than sounding stupid... but where/how would I put the spacers exactly? My bike has black plastic covers over 90% of the shock


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

Under the spring. Those plastic covers I would guess you could take off and leave off...


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## skid (Jun 18, 2009)

use a hockey puck, they work good.


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## Injected (Mar 21, 2010)

Highlifter springs work great. I hardly have any front end sag while plowing


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

Mine does it to when plowing but im going to go with heavier springs all around.I think i might go with EPI springs insted of HL ones.They should be easy to put on your struts.The reason i want stiffer all around is so i can put more weight on the front and back for better traction.With a lift you have to alter the push tube assembly,like i had to cut off the brackets that hook into the front plate(warn pro advantage) and add extensions to them to level out the push tube it was on to much of an angle befor and bent the push tubes.So all said and done just go with the springs.


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## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

Yeah I guess im going to have to start looking into stronger springs. That cheap lift on eBay I found out has the same picture as HL and STIs lifts. And that's the nice thing about my Cycle Country, I can adjust the attack angle on it.


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## brute for mud (Jul 15, 2010)

Springs are the way to go but stiffer springs will be a rougher ride


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## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

brute for mud said:


> Springs are the way to go but stiffer springs will be a rougher ride


Stiffer might not be a problem for me because my whole bike sags down when I sit on it. Wish there was a way to tighten up the factory stuff a bit.

What part of WI you in?


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

When I had my 5' (60") SnowBear plow, I had that problem too. I made some brackets that bolted top and bottom of the shock mounts to lock it. Then placed a few cinder blocks on the back rack to counter the weight when it was lifted. Can't ride trails like that but when plowing, who has the time.


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

nmkawierider said:


> When I had my 5" SnowBear plow, I had that problem too. I made some brackets that bolted top and bottom of the shock mounts to lock it. Then placed a few cinder blocks on the back rack to counter the weight when it was lifted. Can't ride trails like that but when plowing, who has the time.


 Didnt know they had 5" plows.lol


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

enraged350 said:


> Yeah I guess im going to have to start looking into stronger springs. That cheap lift on eBay I found out has the same picture as HL and STIs lifts. And that's the nice thing about my Cycle Country, I can adjust the attack angle on it.


 Mine adjust too but not enough for a 2" lift and 29.5" tires.


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## wcs61 (Jun 7, 2011)

nmkawierider said:


> When I had my 5" SnowBear plow, I had that problem too. I made some brackets that bolted top and bottom of the shock mounts to lock it. Then placed a few cinder blocks on the back rack to counter the weight when it was lifted. Can't ride trails like that but when plowing, who has the time.


My thoughts exactly. Instead of strapping one down in front for racing, in this case you need to make brackets to keep the shocks from squatting.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

brutemike said:


> Didnt know they had 5" plows.lol


Sorry..."FIVE FOOT or 60" " plow.


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

If it were me I'd go with what NMK said. Stiffer springs will deffo work but when the plow comes off your stuck with a stiffer ride than normal which is stiff in my mind anyway.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

With mine locked like that I was actualy able to drive up my ramps into the truck front-ways and get the blade over the wheel wells.. and set the blade down next to back of the bed. I have a 3/4 ton Dodge 4wd...and you know how high those are....even with the 7ft ramps, its quite an angle. For me, with that much snow, its work-time not play anyway.


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## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

nmkawierider said:


> With mine locked like that I was actualy able to drive up my ramps into the truck front-ways and get the blade over the wheel wells.. and set the blade down next to back of the bed. I have a 3/4 ton Dodge 4wd...and you know how high those are....even with the 7ft ramps, its quite an angle. For me, with that much snow, its work-time not play anyway.


Yeah those do sit pretty high lol, I had trouble backing mine into my little Chevy. You wouldn't happen to have a pic of how you made the brackets and mount them do you?


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## gpinjason (Nov 10, 2009)

not sure if anyone noticed, but the OP has a 650 SRA.. which has the struts in the front, not the same as the shocks on the "i" models... not sure if you can add spacers to those springs..


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## gpinjason (Nov 10, 2009)

And the "cheap" lift for the SRA model is just as durable as the high dollars.. only problem is the rear sometimes doesn't fit correctly... Also on the front, you will need to add spacers because it will draw the front wheels inward, and the rear will not change...


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## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

Yeah I wasn't sure if any noticed... although I don't see why I couldn't lock out the strut somehow. And are you talking about wheel spacers? Cause that would suck... A 17 dollar lift and 200 dollars worth of spacers or rims lol


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

enraged350 said:


> Yeah those do sit pretty high lol, I had trouble backing mine into my little Chevy. You wouldn't happen to have a pic of how you made the brackets and mount them do you?


Naa, never took any pics and let the guy have them that bought the plow. They were just 3/4" angle iron with cut 90s ends to get to the bolts and knotch around the springs. I also knotched the ends so I could just loosen the bolts and slide them in, then crank'em back down. You could just take a piece of pipe the same length as the shock and pop a couple of holes in each end for the bolts and replace the shock with it...but that means taking them all the way out..which..aint realy all that bad I guess.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

gpinjason said:


> not sure if anyone noticed, but the OP has a 650 SRA.. which has the struts in the front, not the same as the shocks on the "i" models... not sure if you can add spacers to those springs..


Sh..eet I missed that. Sorry man..you'er on your own now...lol


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## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

nmkawierider said:


> Sh..eet I missed that. Sorry man..you'er on your own now...lol


Eh no biggy! I'll figure something out lol


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## Injected (Mar 21, 2010)

I think Kawasaki offers a stiffer HD front spring too


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## gpinjason (Nov 10, 2009)

enraged350 said:


> Yeah I wasn't sure if any noticed... although I don't see why I couldn't lock out the strut somehow. And are you talking about wheel spacers? Cause that would suck... A 17 dollar lift and 200 dollars worth of spacers or rims lol


I don't really suggest doing it, but my buddy put about 1" worth of flat washers behind his wheels with longer bolts and has been running them like that for a couple years now... :bigeyes: LOL.. it's on a prairie 360 though.. a little less power to worry about...


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## wcs61 (Jun 7, 2011)

enraged350 said:


> Eh no biggy! I'll figure something out lol


No big problem. You can still lock the struts but making a bracket will be the problem. I looked at the setup you have and it can be done. It will ride rough since the only give will be in the tires while plowing. I have an idea but would only be guessing on dimensions.


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## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

Thanks for that diagram, I'm pretty sure I can figure something like that out. Or I'll just buck up and get some heavier springs too


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## wcs61 (Jun 7, 2011)

Question on blades. I'm considering one of these to keep up gravel roads and driveways. I use to own an Ariens mower which had the snow blade attachement and it was great for keeping up gravel road. Took awhile to spread dirt but it was a power horse mower (lawn tractor). Well about three years ago I let someone have it as scrap iron (dumb arse) since the mower slung a rod, thanks to my nephew, and the engine was 1200 to replace. Anyway my question is, Which of the snow/plow blades out there are the best. Moose or is there a blade that is built tougher? Back then $1200 was an issue but today I will spend a little extra to buy a good blade. The Moose is $236.95 for the 60" on Procaliber.


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## enraged350 (Mar 1, 2011)

I have a cycle country that so far im happy with. Otherwise I know the moose is quite strong and popular or the swisher mount system


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