# Knocking.....?



## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

It's entirely too early in the morning for me to type this story out. So i made it into videos :bigok:. 

First is the noise, second is kind of how it started.


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## dookie (Mar 24, 2011)

Sounds like a rod bearing. Thats how mine sounded just on the other side. U wanna pray its not though. My motors in 1000 peices. Not fun to rebuild. Good luck


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## BF2012 (Jun 10, 2011)

not good.most likely a slow biproduct of the recent overheating incident.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

BF2012 said:


> not good.most likely a slow biproduct of the recent overheating incident.


 I agree. Sorry man. Heat is the enemy of all engines. An oil cooler might have saved the bearings though.


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

Sounds like 2k to me


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## LM83 (Jul 23, 2010)

lilbigtonka said:


> Sounds like 2k to me


Or more...


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Well if that's truely what it is.... then i won't be back on a 4wheeler in years. I'm probably getting an 06 z71 SLT today, so i know my dad's not paying for an engine rebuild. The thing is....... The first time it seriously overheated neither the hot light OR the fan came on..... So kind of Kawasaki's problem...?


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

time to get a job anyways....shoot i was working in the summers when i was 13


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Well my dad said once he sees I can drive good I can drive by myself. Once I can drive I'll probably get a job. My dad keeps saying theres nothing wrong with it, and that i dont need to believe what i see on here? I think he's just trying to avoid the fact that something IS wrong. Were going to FCP Monday 


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## Kingsixx (Jul 9, 2011)

Bro, you're like the proverbial black cloud when it comes to quads. Does anything ever go right for you? 

I hope things work out in your favor. Good luck.


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Hahaha, that's true. Thanks man. I hope I can get it rebuilt. I was just at the dealer and they were a bunch of smart A's. They said "You tore that thing up in the mud" yeah, my fan relay and hot light went out when I had some worn 26" zillas and no other mods. There was no way for me to know. 


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

i love my temp gauge......but yeah sometimes it will overheat and you will never know therefore needing a gauge to let you know


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Alright. Here i am very confused. For one, i watched the video again. It doesn't sound NEAR that bad in person. iPhone mic isn't the greatest. Now it's stopped this noise. Or it's alot quieter. No power loss. Runs just as good. I've put 60 miles and 9 hours on it since it overheated


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## sloboy (Oct 11, 2010)

You better hope its clutch noise!!!


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

What would cause the clutch make that noise? It increase with RPM's and on decel


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

One sure way of knowing...RUN IT!...:rev1:


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Oh i have been! The ride last night was 30 miles of racing trucks and stuff. It did fine then. Just this slight noise. It can't be heard over the exhaust


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## sloboy (Oct 11, 2010)

Wifey SMOKED the belt on ours an it had a noise to it pulled the cover and there was a section broken on the belt,replaced it an no noise,,but thus might not be your prob if you had a heating issue


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

now im starting to think it is one of two things since you say you been racing it alot back and forth it very well could be your valves, check them asap and get them adjusted to the right spec. if it isnt there then could be rod bearing, i dont think it is your clutch, because that is more like a knock tick, and clutch is more of a clunk noise hard to explain, but then again i know vids can make things sound alot worst then something really is.....adjust those valves and go from there....but then again valves are on top of motor, is yours worst at bottom or top


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## sloboy (Oct 11, 2010)

@ tonka you are right about the sounds an it is hard to trouble shoot from a video but I would check everything I could before I called in the dogs an burnt 2+ grand on a rebuild ya heard me!!


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

To be honest, I can't tell from the vid?


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Valves is what i was thinking. Its more at the top (i think)


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

since your out of school get them done tomm and let us know the verdict


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## tx_brute_rider (Feb 18, 2011)

You have some bad luck when it comes to brutes, man. Do you run it that hard?

Might want to check the little things first, like said above. It'd suck to do a rebuild and find out it was just the valves or the belt. The valves do get out of specs when it gets ran in general, but much more when your heavy on the throttle, I have noticed. 

Do you have any clutch springs to accommodate for the 29.5s, just a thought.


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

I'm trying to get it done ASAP. Moeller's in Bastrop (where i got it) are GREAT about doing work on it even with these mods. Even though it looks and sounds like it gets ran hard, it really doesn't. When your dad buys you everything to have a bike nicer than a lot of people i know, and he won't fix it if i blow it up, plus i have a ton of fun riding it, then i try to take care of it. I don't just hold WOT and have never done a real long wheelie. No i don't have clutch springs, but neither do i run it that hard. It stays in low 95% of the time


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

The day i got it. They rolled it out of the crate with 0.0 miles on it:bigok:
You can see the ole 420 we traded sitting up in the truck. Got it March 18 this year


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## 88rxn/a (Mar 2, 2009)

thats what mine sounded like when the bearings went.


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Nooooo.... Mines a constant click


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

After hearing that last Vid I'm leaning toward the valves on yours


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## countryboy61283 (Mar 20, 2010)

Aww, the joys of being a kid, lol, I was the same way, hard on my atv's when I wasn't paying for them, now that I'm investing thousands of dollar's in my machine and paying a monthly payment, I take it pretty easy, riding in low 95% of the time and hammering down is not good at all on it, that's where the right clutching comes in to affect, if it needs a rebuild, its just a lesson learned


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

I dont hammer it in low. I just cruise around in low.


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## tx_brute_rider (Feb 18, 2011)

Hope you can get it fixed so you can have it up and running.

That's how my dad is. He believes if it ain't broke don't fix it and hates wrenching on it. You know having a brute, you'll be spending a good time wrenching on her. You gotta pay for that V-twin power,though:rockn:


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Exactly the way my dad is. He believes i should keep riding it the way it is. I didn't even pay a penny of this thing and i don't want to do that


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## BF2012 (Jun 10, 2011)

I personally think this is a good chance for you to begin learning to wrench. Not suggesting you do a complete tear down on your own. I been riding since i was 6, and i'm 36 now. I started doin my own work when i was 14,in 1989. 
Working on/keeping quads maintained is half the fun, of owning them.
Not preaching to you either,but if you continue to ride for years to come,you will want to do your own work.


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## countryboy61283 (Mar 20, 2010)

BF2012 said:


> I personally think this is a good chance for you to begin learning to wrench. Not suggesting you do a complete tear down on your own. I been riding since i was 6, and i'm 36 now. I started doin my own work when i was 14,in 1989.
> Working on/keeping quads maintained is half the fun, of owning them.
> Not preaching to you either,but if you continue to ride for years to come,you will want to do your own work.


Agreed, money train will run out, and learning how saves tons of money


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## hp488 (Sep 23, 2009)

Have you thought about putting it back stock and taking it in for warranty or is it out of warranty.


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

I've also been thinking of doing it myself. The dealer we bought it from lets us get warranty work for free done even with the mods. The thing is, i don't EVEN know where to start on valve adjustments.


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## 2010Bruterider (Jun 20, 2010)

I'd definitely take it to the dealer for a valve adjustment. That might solve your problem. If it doesn't, then at least you had them done by a pro,and you can rule them out. Good luck man.

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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Well.... we called a dealer and they said valve adjustments are never needed??


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

Very very bad dealer...obviously they know nothing


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Kind of scares me.... All the dealers have been saying that's not ever needed


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## 650Brute (Dec 18, 2008)

lilbigtonka said:


> Very very bad dealer...obviously they know nothing


Yep!! Wow!! No need ever?


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Well.... I guess i'll just ride till it blows. My dad's not letting me get the valves adjusted. He payed for it, i didn't. So i guess we'll see what he thinks when it blows


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

all you need is that right feeler gauges and some time which you have.....dont let a little potential valve cost you money that it doesnt need to....vlave adjustment is not hard on these.....we will help you through it if needed you get the right spec and that feeler gauge loosen the nut on the valve and then tighten once you have it at the right spec which i can get for you if you want....i think it was a 10mm nut so it isnt nothing crazy and the valve covers come off very easy


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Where do i start on this? I have no clue on it. We have some snap-on tools around, nothing amazing though


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

first off do you have some feeler gauges and if not are you willing to get some


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

I'm pretty sure i do... Aren't they just those real thin strips of metal? My dad used to do valves himself


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

well if he use to do them then why dont you ask him for some help before you destroy a brand new bike....if he has done them before he knows exactly what to do tell him to take the side plastics off and the airbox and it will be super simple....he will see them once he takes the airbox off


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Well he did them on his old Mercedes back before i was even born... Lol. JUST because the dealer said they dont do it he doesn't want to.


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Well i convinced him into getting it done. He's about to trade his truck and doesn't want me loading it in there. He's supposed to be meeting the guy about that truck for me tonight :bigok:

Another vid


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## BF2012 (Jun 10, 2011)

1st off, i suggest you get a service manual and read through it. Reread a job you are about to do.
Clean the quad GOOD, remove all loose dirt,ect. Get your quad naked next,undress her carefully. Put screws and bolts in bags labeled,ex.(front fender bolts)ziplock bags with a label in them.
You will need basic metric hand tools, and feeler gauges. Try to get your dad to help,sounds like he would have a basic idea.
From this point, it is removing a few caps, tdc the cylinders,checkin the lash,possibly setting the gap, and replacing everything.
It is more complicated than i am posting, but it is a VERY doable task.
Seems there will be plenty of help here.
There is prob. youtube vids on how to.


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## wolf_36 (Jul 7, 2010)

Don't have to strip it down , just take the battery box out gives you clear access to the rear valves . can do the front valves with out removing anything (atleast on mine I did'nt have to remove anything ) did have a little trouble with one of the valve cover bolts , coolant line was in the way just loosened the bracket on it to make a little room . front is tight to get to but can be done taking your time .


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## hp488 (Sep 23, 2009)

In the last vid you posted it sounds like you have a dead cylinder have you checked your plugs and coils to make sure you are getting fire on both of them?


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

I am going to sound very dumb asking this....... but how do you check the plugs and coil. I dielectric greased the plugs and all connections i could find a while back. How do i check the plugs and coils?


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Sanative said:


> I am going to sound very dumb asking this....... but how do you check the plugs and coil. I dielectric greased the plugs and all connections i could find a while back. How do i check the plugs and coils?


Not sure I follow, but Pull the plugs and check the color, gap and condition of the end. Then plug it into the plug wire, lay the metal part against the engine and crank it with your eye on it. You should see a strong healthy blue spark. That says the coil is fine. If its small and yellow or just supper skinny, try another plug and make sure the battery is up. If no difference there might be a coil or a connector problem.


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## hp488 (Sep 23, 2009)

I guess the easiest way for you to do this would be to pop the plug wires loose from the plugs but leave them sitting on there get a good pair of pliers start your bike and pull one wire off to see if the motor changes sound and rpm, if so put it back on and move to the other one and if no change it is not firing in that cylinder. This is a easy test to see if that is your problem.


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Great idea guys^ Just got back inside from doing that, big drop in RPM's both times. So plugs are good


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## tx_brute_rider (Feb 18, 2011)

Yea it's pretty easy to to adjust the valves yourself, like they have said^. All you need is to have patience some tools and a clean workplace would be better.

First time my dad did them on mine it took about an hour and a half total and we had to take off the side fenders, airbox,and battery. Just be patient and don't rush so you can do them correctly. I broke a filler gauge because i was pissed when I was doing it.:angryfire:


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

I may try it. I don't really have many clean places to work though...


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## BF2012 (Jun 10, 2011)

wolf_36 said:


> Don't have to strip it down , just take the battery box out gives you clear access to the rear valves . can do the front valves with out removing anything (atleast on mine I did'nt have to remove anything ) did have a little trouble with one of the valve cover bolts , coolant line was in the way just loosened the bracket on it to make a little room . front is tight to get to but can be done taking your time .


 This is just my opinion on stripping a quad. If you own it you should strip it soon after you purchase it. Get to know what has to come off, and what does not in the future. I picked up a 12 model 1st week of june,had her naked with less than 30 miles on it.
Good info in the above post.


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Yeah i just had mine pretty dang disassembled a few weeks ago. All plastics and floorboards off, radiator out, and wheels off


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## oft brute (Jul 22, 2011)

after mine was sunk it sounded just like that. i cleaned it out hoped for the best and rode it about 11 months with out incident just a tic now and then. one day i fired it up and it started smoking. so i tore it down found one bent rod and both bearings spun.


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Well mines never been sunk.... So I'm wondering. I'll see what happens when the valves get adjusted 


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

when should the valves be done i wanna hear this verdict im saying valves and hope im right but i have been wrong many times i aint perfect but who is lol


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

I'm hoping before this weekend. I am also hoping valves! Looks like all of my friends are having bad luck. Look in the Honda section on 2005 rancher 350 smoking


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

i know your prob i finally just watched that last vid you posted, im almost positive it aint a rod bearing it is one of these two thingsm valves which should be checked anyways or a bad exhaust leak call me crazy but i first hand know a hmf exhaust and thats what you got....go crank it up since it aint to late and do me a favor feel where the rear header meets the motor feel around it and tell me if you feel air pushing and do same where the muffler meets the headers i am willing to bet you got a nasty leak i had one or 10 lol but i have it fixed now tried everything from exhaust cement to new gaskets.....only thing that fixed mine was the copper silicone from permantex everything else leaks or falls apart once it gets saturated by water.....betcha it is leaking at the motor


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

lilbigtonka said:


> i know your prob i finally just watched that last vid you posted, im almost positive it aint a rod bearing it is one of these two thingsm valves which should be checked anyways or a bad exhaust leak call me crazy but i first hand know a hmf exhaust and thats what you got....go crank it up since it aint to late and do me a favor feel where the rear header meets the motor feel around it and tell me if you feel air pushing and do same where the muffler meets the headers i am willing to bet you got a nasty leak i had one or 10 lol but i have it fixed now tried everything from exhaust cement to new gaskets.....only thing that fixed mine was the copper silicone from permantex everything else leaks or falls apart once it gets saturated by water.....betcha it is leaking at the motor


You got it! Leaking around there. 









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## BF2012 (Jun 10, 2011)

Good suggestion lbt/good find.
even if it quits making the noise, i would still check the valve lash.
hope this solved the prob.


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

thank you thank you so much next up for president lilbigtonka lol jk glad i could help bro get that copper silicone and you will be ready to rock n roll


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Thanks man. Probably saved me a lot of time. I'll try that and see how to bike sounds from there!


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

dont forget to tighten the crap outta it when ya put it back on and put the silicone on each side of the gasket and let it sit for a full 24hrs i would do 2 days though trust me and then heat it up real good and let it cool completely off before getting it in the mud or water once thats done you should be perfect if not it prolly wont work and will come apart


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

One more question, any tips on getting the pipe off? I tried one time and couldn't budge it 


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

Yeah use muscles lol


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Dang. I had 2 people helping lol


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## tx_brute_rider (Feb 18, 2011)

Graet catch LilBigTonka

If your talking about the seperate header it is a PITA to take off:aargh4:. When I tryed to take it off I was like WTF:thinking:. I took it off by hitting it constantly with a rubber mallet. Think it came out forward, if I remember correctly.


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## lilbigtonka (Dec 30, 2008)

Mines comes off fairly easy so I don't know


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Do I need to put the silicone in before I bolt the header on?


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Here's the old gasket!


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## Sanative (May 4, 2011)

Well., It's back 100% now!!


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