# new quad, new tires.



## adam6604 (Feb 5, 2012)

hey guys, ive been looking and i can't seem to find the answer im looking for, so im finally going to just post and ask lol. I bought a new 2012 brute force 650i and im looking for tires/rims. I REALLY want outlaws, but don't want to put money into axles and lifts.. atleast not right now. i dont really want to do much clutch work either. I ride quite alot of hard packed trails, but tend to get muddy alot too. im torn between outlaws, mudlite XL's or zilla's..

i really like an aggressive big tire, but im fighting against myself not doing clutch work etc.. so basically what size can i run in each of those while keeping my bike basically stock (FOR NOW) ? thanks alot guys. really appreciate the help.


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## jctgumby (Apr 23, 2009)

I would recommend at least an almond secondary clutch spring for any of the above tires. If you do not want to lift the Brute then I don't think you can really get over a 27" Outlaw, I do think you can clear up to around a 28" Zilla though. It really depends on what kind of riding you do. If you want 'Laws and it was me I would look into the RubberDown Customs 2" lift, at least an almond secondary spring and 'Laws FTW. You can look at my sig and see how I am currently set up and I love the performance in my Brute. It has never let me down.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

I agree with Gumby. And to try to answer your question, you really can't have both worlds. You can't really slap on big aggressive tires, and leave everything else alone. You'll be burning belts left and right. 

If you are determined not to mess with clutching or lifts, then I would suggest the 27 or 28" Zilla's. They are great little mud tires, they are light, and wouldnt REALLY require any clutching changes, especially the 27's. I would suggest going 27x11 all the way around though.

You could also look at the Gators & MudBugs.


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## trailmaker (Jun 29, 2010)

I have 27x12x12 swamplites all around on a 650i and it pulls them fine without replacing anything. The only upgrade has been a k&n, dyna Cdi and shimmed my carbs for the tuner. I do recommend the Cdi cause of the huge gain for just $100. 
But i did notice the swamps are much heavier than the mudlites and don't really recommend if you do a lot of trail riding being how ruff they are.


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## z24guy (Nov 27, 2010)

I'd like to see pictures of the 27's all the way around. I've been thinking of that exact setup fort 650i.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

there are a bunch in my gallery


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## trailmaker (Jun 29, 2010)

It looks great and plows snow and gravel better with that size. 
It kills your steering especially when navigating through the woods
I'll post some pics tomorrow


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## bruteman19 (Jan 14, 2012)

I would recommend 27'' mud lites. They are smooth and great in some mud and a good trail tire.


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## jbb (Dec 20, 2011)

i just did the 26" sti muds on mine. havent got much run time on them, but they were pretty inexpensive.


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

I didnt have any steering problems w/ the 27x11's all around.


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## vogie (Jun 16, 2010)

here's my 750 on 27" zillas, 9 on front and 11 on rears. Never had an ounce of issues with them on and I had them for a full year. Sold them to go to 30" Silverbacs.


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## skid (Jun 18, 2009)

I would also go with zillas, little lighter then most and still aggresive enough when you want them to be.


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## adam6604 (Feb 5, 2012)

looks like im probably set on the zillas, might go 28x11x12's all around, whatever's widest. if need be ill do a 2" RDC lift. and clutch work doesn't seem that bad with the looking i've done on MIMB so that might happen as well lol


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## crazybear (Jan 11, 2012)

i have a 07 brute 650i with an hmf pipe on it and no clutch work it runs like a scalded dog and i have 29.5 10 swamplights all around


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## Brute650i (Dec 17, 2008)

If you pay attention on how you ride you can do no clutch work and run 29.5 laws an not have any problems in the mud. 

Ask me how I know and its because I did it for a while and had no trouble. Almond secondary does help but I am highly against the long stiff secondaries from epi (red and yellow) . They do give tons of low end but it does nothing anywhere else in speed range and actually lowers belt life because of heat building up


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## adam6604 (Feb 5, 2012)

when im going in nasty mud, i usually do the WFO idea untill i start to lose forward momentum then i just stop and winch out, lol i like making the big splash but i dont see the point in wrecking axles etc from struggling to get out lol


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## 12bf750blackbetty (Apr 21, 2012)

The kenda exacutioners pull really good, I've got a stock 12' bf 750 on 27 and it spins the hell out of them and they pull a lot better to me than the zilla's


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## mcpyro3 (Feb 23, 2011)

i recommend vfj clutch springs over epi all day i've ran epi maroon pri red sec great low end but thats it and def harder on belts i have a pic in my gallery with the red epi and vfj #3 the vfj is short and easier on belts but just as stiff with less coils so no coil binding under load conditions i believe they are the same price as epi also

as for tires my buddy as a set of mud b*tch's which are basically zillas 27x11 all round on a 550 grizzly with no lift and stock clutching and they do great only prob is harder to steer in the mud but not bad


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## whoolieshop (Mar 22, 2011)

adam6604 said:


> when im going in nasty mud, i usually do the WFO idea untill i start to lose forward momentum then i just stop and winch out, lol i like making the big splash but i dont see the point in wrecking axles etc from struggling to get out lol



WFO is exactly what breaks them, when the tires are spinning hard they have very little load on them, you're slinging mud everywhere and making lots of noise... But if one of those tires catches a root, or a rut it puts a severe spike of load on that axle and CV and the weakest point gives.

Bigger tires usually equate to broken axles because they're taller and heavier and the motor is working harder to spin them over, thus more stress when they suddenly catch traction!

Putting stronger axles in can make them survive the harsh loads if that is your riding style but it will transfer those loads on up the drivetrain into the diff and output shafts. Price one stock axle vs your front or rear diff, or the output shafts!

I would just about bet that holes you went WFO into and still got stuck you could crawl through with an aggressive set of mud tires in 2wd. The lugs are way deeper, and spaced wide to help the tire clean out rather than slicking over. Although they can still slick over a quick burp of the throttle can sling the mud right out of them.

IMO thumb control is a lot cheaper and easier on your ride than replacing axles!

*Edit* bouncing the front end trying to climb out of a hole is also an excellent way to destroy one or both front axles! Same theory as above, they go from no load to an extreme load in just a second eventually something gives.


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## Spivey13 (Aug 13, 2012)

where is a good place to shop for tires and rims? im wanting to get both as a package deal but wondering the cheapest place online too if anyone has ideas


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## adam6604 (Feb 5, 2012)

whoolieshop said:


> WFO is exactly what breaks them, when the tires are spinning hard they have very little load on them, you're slinging mud everywhere and making lots of noise... But if one of those tires catches a root, or a rut it puts a severe spike of load on that axle and CV and the weakest point gives.
> 
> Bigger tires usually equate to broken axles because they're taller and heavier and the motor is working harder to spin them over, thus more stress when they suddenly catch traction!
> 
> ...


i've gotten a little better with the WFO option.. i normally only go balls out is when im riding alot of nasty skeg holes.. i'll have HOPEFULLY my 31" Outlaws by this week/end of next week on my brute. so i'll control my habits to not snap stuff. lol


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