# 2014 XMR 1000 Build



## jrpro130

Sold the renegade....  time for something with fenders



Got a great deal on a 14 XMR 1000 in camo. From Sun Sports Cycles in Ft Myers, Fl



And the build begins...I'll keep updating this thread, but basically I've ordered the following so far 

Catvos 4" black lift with Rhino Axles
EMPI boots for the axles
New ball joints/wheel bearings
QSC Primary, STM Secondary, 50/40 helix black spring
LTE slip on Exhaust
Custom cutout radiator cover
Performance ATV snorkels (which I will be re-doing the risers)
8" Memphis Marine speakers, SA-4.50 amp, and bluetooth adapter
Can-Am BRP rear seat (from dealer)
31 S/W Origional outlaws (NOT MAXXIS...I paid extra to get an OG set)
MSA M20 Kore rims
1.5" Wheel Spacers

Should be a fun buildup...I did similar to my renegade, pictures are floating around somewhere.


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## Polaris425

And they say_ I_ swap toys a lot... :rockn:


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## jrpro130

Lol. I'm guilty!

Should be wrenching instead of using Tapatalk...


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## ericr33914

do you ever keep any vehicles?

I bet you'll enjoy having storage and racks again.


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## jrpro130

Gotta keep em guessing!

Should be wrenching instead of using Tapatalk...


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## Ole Nasty

Are the lifts different or were you able to use the CATVOS lift off of the 'gade?


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## jrpro130

I sold the lift off the gade a few months ago, they are same. All G2 bikes have same suspension. 

For the XMR they do have differently located shock tabs, because of the longer shocks

---------- Post added at 08:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:51 AM ----------

Alright, got some parts rolling in.

Still waiting on QSC/STM clutches, CATVOS lift, and backrest (it's backordered)

First mod was the yeti. I decided on the Roadie 20QT for size and ease of transport. I saw the mounting system from yeti, but didn't like a few things about it, so ventured out to make my own

this will work for ANY size yeti, not just roadie's

Take a ratchet strap or tie down, cut the mechanism and the hook off...



You are left with this



Put a d ring or hook on it







measure and drill for the eyelet. I use lock nuts for EVERYTHING so it doesn't come apart or loose ever. All stainless steel also



It looks huge without the rear seat but it should just be level or a little higher than the seat





About half full here, 10 drinks and ice



Got my 31's on M20's



Replacement CV boots for the rhino's



LTE slip on and programmer



Performance ATV snorkel (that I modified, I'll post some pictures after the weekend)



Custom rad cutout



LTE on



Let me say, the LTE fits great, but it did require you to push up a lot more than i was comfortable with to get the bolts in


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## Ole Nasty

****, lookin' good man!


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## chevyon52

looks good


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## Polaris425

:rockn:


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## lilbigtonka

Lookin awesome Ricky how did it do and do you have the foreman still or is it gone also


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## LIfted2004edge

Lookin good man. I can't wait to see it in person. I finally talked my wife into taking a trip to mud muckers. We just have to find a weekend we both can get off. 


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## jrpro130

Did great this weekend! Got it real stuck but thats what it's for!

The ACS is acting up but I knew i would have issues with it, thats why I wanted a MAX not an XMR in the first place. But from what I'm reading and from talking to my buddy it is a leak in the system that causes the "air fault" that I'm having.

Mine is also doing the typical "dess key not found", which just is my key needing di-electric

---------- Post added at 09:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 PM ----------


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## linkage

it was a new outtie meet! :rockn:


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## lilbigtonka

Guess I'm the black sheep of the family now lol


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## jrpro130

As I've talked about...my ACS went out this weekend. I'm done with it, too much electrical for how we ride.

Checked the whole system for leaks...ZERO. (that was what I was told causes ACS fault)

The computer is going nuts, front locks up on acs 1...won't dump, then randomly it will dump when you put it up to 6. Then rear will dump on acs 6 but only 1/4 of the way. Then everything goes up to 6 but won't go back down. It's a mess.

So I capped it off. 



Home depot 1/8" NPT brass caps. 

Whole system functions still, I can get air out of the fill line and compressor doesn't even try to fill up at all when riding (stays on ACS1). When you want to do anything with the air chuck just plug it in and move up to acs 6. Works perfect and no fault code. 

Compressor DOES NOT short cycle like everyone says it will.

Now keep in mind I'm still experimenting, BUT I bought Fox Podiums (Renegade 1k shocks) and I'm hoping I still won't have the ACS fault. I was having it when trying to air up ACS settings. If I stayed at ACS 1 it wouldn't fault.

If it does go into fault mode all the time, I may get an outlander computer and just take out the whole solenoid part and leave the compressor and run a line straight to the tire fill valve and run a switch to the pod. Keep it simple and still have on board air. it would save my arse one day

As of now, I'm still waiting on CATVOS and QSC for the rest of parts.


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## JPs300

<---proud "igniter" of this swap/build......LOL!!!


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## jrpro130

Oh yeah...love that max frame! 

I am happy things turned out the way they did but this ACS is killin' me...I wish Sun Sports had a MAX to work an insane deal on not a XMR. BUT...I'm so ahead of the game having wheels/tires to sell, snorkel was easy, and rad already up. Just bought the Fox Podiums so as of now with buying the podiums and seat I'm at the deal I could have got on a MAX.

BUT...I still have suspension/compressor/wheels/tires to sell...


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## duckincrazy92

Nice build and nice ride.


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## jrpro130

Oh boy...knew this would happen. Ups brown truck comes. I get 4 packages today. Shocks came...great! Rhino axles....awesome!!! Get the lift... well

So I open the trailing arms box first....no good. Immediately see chipped powder coat. 

Call up Scott. Send some pictures. Just explained my situation and what is going on. When he saw the pics he said holy hell. Its horrible. 

He is taking care of it no questions asked. Sending me a brand new lift from a different powder coater. He said they have been battling powder coat issues lately. But this is the worst they have seen. 

Needless to say I'm a little bummed but super pumped to have nice powder coat and I'm very happy Scott is personally handling this. Speaks volumes for the company and his business. 

I don't want to bash CATVOS so I won't post the pictures but I will say that its awesome how he is handling it 

As for today...

Got a ton of work done.

Got my CATVOS in. PERFECT powder coat, i mean perfect. Real thick and nice. Sent back the old stuff and I'm getting started installing. Just taking my time I am very meticulous.



QSC charged my card so that should ship any day.

As you guys know, sent out my computer to get re flashed essentially. That should be back any day.

Took out the entire ACS system, right down to the air lines, shocks, compressor ETC.

There is a ton of crap.

Anyone who does this, there is a lot of cussing involved to get the compressor out, I ended up cutting the bracket in half (you'll see what I mean), and I took out all air lines. I just zip tied all the wires up and I'm very very happy with how much less clutter there is


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## jrpro130

Progress report:

Took the whole front right apart, I'm doing one side at a time start to finish. This way I won't lose any bolts, misplace any parts, or forget anything.

First I'll start off with the boots, the front boots are EMPI-86-2453D and the rears are 86-2404D, props to JPS300 for the part numbers











That is what is included in the EMPI kit

Front's on the left, rears on the right





Front all apart



Clamp tools, the top one is for the EMPI clamps, the bottom is the Rhino Clamps (which I COULD NOT reuse BTW). They were too big for the empi boots, which means they are thinner rubber at the cup. 

The EMPI boots feel much stronger, do not stretch nearly as much, and are a lot thicker at the ribs (which is where rhino's break)

Tool being used for rhino clamps







Repeat x 4 and then pound off the outer joint to get the boots off



This is my CV axle hammer, non marring



Put some more grease in there!



Rhino on the right, EMPI on the left



All done










I'll get some more work done tomorrow, but time has been really short!


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## CaN_Am_RyDeR_1000

Looks like a lot of fun. But it will be worth it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jrpro130

Got some more work done!

Don't mind the axle angle, it's at full full droop just checking the boots. The way I had to do the boots was take off the inner bar clamp and let the boots go out more. They were too scrunched before, the clamp was hitting the rubber.



When I was doing the rear, I discovered a little problem...



There is a little metal tube inside of the rear trailing arm where the bearing goes, it is TOO SMALL for the trailing arm bolt. So I used a piece of all thread, it's fine..works great and it's the perfect size. Sure it's not AS strong, but I don't forsee any issues. No movement and it was actually tight even before I torqued it down.





I left the clamps off the rear until I get the ride height figured out!


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## jrpro130

The other day all my stuff from powder coat got done (this was the hold up!)



Did work today! No issues what-so-ever. Not gonna need the 2" wheel spacers















Still have a ton to do including adjusting the suspension but everything fit and it's off jack stands, which was the goal for today!


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## CaN_Am_RyDeR_1000

Looks great. I like the black winch hook but once you hook it onto something won't the paint come right off?


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## jrpro130

Its powder coat. It will eventually chip off but I'm not too worried 

Should be wrenching instead of using Tapatalk...


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## CaN_Am_RyDeR_1000

If it ever chips off you could put that rubberized bed liner on it. That would hold up a little better than paint. Looks sick though. Wish I could afford to build something like that.


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## thomaslord84

How much GC do you have with the lift and those tires? Also how much clearance between the tires and rear of the floorboards? 

I am going to lift mine. I dunno if I want a 4" or 6" because I want to be able to crank my shocks back down a little for it to ride smoother but I still want to be able to clear 32's. 

Sent from my XT926 using Tapatalk


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## jrpro130

thomaslord84 said:


> How much GC do you have with the lift and those tires? Also how much clearance between the tires and rear of the floorboards?
> 
> I am going to lift mine. I dunno if I want a 4" or 6" because I want to be able to crank my shocks back down a little for it to ride smoother but I still want to be able to clear 32's.
> 
> Sent from my XT926 using Tapatalk


Haven't adjusted my shocks yet so haven't measured. I will be working on it tomorrow though.

I had the 6" on my gade and I hated how the boots rubbed on the front. I turned it down to like a 4.5 or 5".

The 4" is perfect, I would go for it again without hesitation. 32's will fit even with a bracket lift and extended trailing arms!


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## jrpro130

Finished the bike a few weeks ago













I broke both rear shocks on the first ride! NO good, getting commander shocks







I have commander shocks on the way!


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## Audible Silence

wow that a hell of a build... so did you ever put the compressor back in or just say fuggit? also, did you make those audio tubes yourself?


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## team_mudnut

Thats one sick can-ham.


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## Polaris425

Looks great J!


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## jrpro130

Audible Silence said:


> wow that a hell of a build... so did you ever put the compressor back in or just say fuggit? also, did you make those audio tubes yourself?


I just ripped everything air related off! IT's garbrage, it really shouldn't be on an atv/sxs

I made them myself yup! I might have forgot the pics in this thread but they are on can-am forum. I'll dig them up!


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## JPs300

I haul you on the back of my bike ONE TIME and this thread is the result........LOL!


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## duckincrazy92

What's the toggle switches beside the cluster for?


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## jrpro130

One is fan override the other is led light bar !!!

Should be wrenching instead of using Tapatalk...


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## duckincrazy92

That's a great looking setup.


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## adamwedge

Awesome looking bike mayne. Thing looks mean. Is it just the picture or is the XMR like 2 feet longer than a brute? lol


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## duckincrazy92

can you post a picture of the front view of your audiotubes? also how did you make that cut?


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## jrpro130

Oh its a lot longer than the brute. Lol

Yes duck in I will. I have the pics just have to get to the computer 

Should be wrenching instead of using Tapatalk...


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## duckincrazy92

I appreciate it a lot.


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## hursteric

I see you moved the stock snorkels up a little higher. How hard was it to do that?? I just got the 2015 800 xmr and i want my snorkels where i can see them.


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## HoCho

:rockn::rockn: CanAms are bad machines . Yea,I know I own a BF.


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## Jason40

I am having issues with my 2014 XMR air suspension. It is not moving from its first position any ideas


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## pontoonfisher

jrpro130 said:


> Sold the renegade....  time for something with fenders
> 
> 
> 
> Got a great deal on a 14 XMR 1000 in camo. From Sun Sports Cycles in Ft Myers, Fl
> 
> 
> 
> And the build begins...I'll keep updating this thread, but basically I've ordered the following so far
> 
> Catvos 4" black lift with Rhino Axles
> EMPI boots for the axles
> New ball joints/wheel bearings
> QSC Primary, STM Secondary, 50/40 helix black spring
> LTE slip on Exhaust
> Custom cutout radiator cover
> Performance ATV snorkels (which I will be re-doing the risers)
> 8" Memphis Marine speakers, SA-4.50 amp, and bluetooth adapter
> Can-Am BRP rear seat (from dealer)
> 31 S/W Origional outlaws (NOT MAXXIS...I paid extra to get an OG set)
> MSA M20 Kore rims
> 1.5" Wheel Spacers
> 
> Should be a fun buildup...I did similar to my renegade, pictures are floating around somewhere.


nice !


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