# prop shaft roll pin problem:



## tirebuilderms

Any suggestions on getting a stubborn roll pin outta the propshaft on an 04 sportsman 700? tried drilling only to have broken bits, spraying all kinds of penetrating oil on it, and just plain knockin the crap out of it and it will not budge. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## hp488

Have you tried putting some heat on it?


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## The Kid

find a punch that fits the hole and go to beating on it, and replace it with a bolt and lock nut. some of them can be a pain to get out


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## tirebuilderms

using a cuttin torch or some type of heat was about the only thing i could come up with to try next. i've about resorted to cutting the yoke but the shaft wont come lose from transmission side either so i aint goin to do that yet.


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## The Kid

dont use to much heat or it will damage the seal


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## Polaris425

They can be a pain that's for sure. I agree w/ the bolt/nut replacement. That's what I had to do on my '00 X425


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## wyo58

Yes they can be a pain in the arse to get out! As far as heat on heat treated parts, I sure wouldn't. Not only the seal could be damaged but you can also take some of the temper out of the metal parts. Use a ton of penetrating sprays and allow them to soak in over a period of days and the right sized punch is really the only safe way to remove them.


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## phreebsd

sounds like its time for som PB Blaster.


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## NMKawierider

Have to catch the outside edge of the pin or flat across it otherwise it will flar or pien out and get tighter in the hole. A hollow-ground punch that fits the hole snuggly and catches the outside edge of a roll pin is always the best...but not always easiest to find...lol Soak it with PB and put a little heat on it.


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## tirebuilderms

Ive got the diff unbolted from the frame and the cover unbolted from it but not much room to slide it over and expose any of the splines or anything. I've sprayed pblaster on it repeatedly and used up a couple cans of it. I can't find one of those type punches anywhere but i've used somethin the same size as the pin to see if it would move but it wont move a bit. I've resorted to try and remove the shaft from the tranny but its not comin out yet either. the alomite thats in front of the joint dont look like its ever seen grease and when i tried to grease it, the grease just oozed out from around the top of it. I'm thinkin about just takin a cuttin torch and cuttin the shaft and get the front end off that way. I know i'd have to buy another shaft but what are the thoughts on this? I'm really runnin out of patience and options on this thing and i'm entertaining some drastic actions here. lol.


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## tirebuilderms

well, i got the axle, cover and hub off the front end as an assembly, but is it possible to TOTALLY rebuild the front end with it still attached to the bike? im askin because i'm having so much trouble with the roll pin in the propshaft.


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## wyo58

tirebuilderms said:


> well, i got the axle, cover and hub off the front end as an assembly, but is it possible to TOTALLY rebuild the front end with it still attached to the bike? im askin because i'm having so much trouble with the roll pin in the propshaft.


I don't think you can replace the front input seal with it on. If you have tried drill bits and they have started to cut into the roll-pin they more than likely broke off inside the pin making it harder to remove. At least you now have it out where you can get a good whack at it. I would position the front axle so you can completely submerse the drive line in some diesel fuel and let it soak for a while. Out of curiousity is the drive shaft at all loose on the input shaft of the front axle? Can you see any movement at all?


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## gotmuddy

You have a couple options. One would be to bolt the diff back in and try to remove the pin with a punch and a hammer. If that doesnt work what I would do is cut the u-joint and pull the diff out and try with it on the bench.


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## tirebuilderms

any ideas what i can use to cut the u-joint? i dont think i could use a cutting torch because of a lack of room.


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## Polaris425

I believe I'd keep trying to find a punch that will work before I cut it off... As mentioned having the right size punch, or just a piece of brass the correct size is very important. It needs to be the same diameter of the pin but slightly smaller than the hole in the joint.

I know on my 425 I had to beat the FOOL out of it to get it out. Maybe taping lightly (or beating the fool out of, haha) the u-joint it self w/ a dead-blow will loosen it up some...


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## agguy

soak it with PB and get you a flat punch and 2 lb hammer. I had same problem, but I finally got it once I got on it with a big hammer. I wouldn't use heat, it will be bad for your seals. good luck


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## tirebuilderms

FINALLY, got the pin out of the yoke. Used a tapered punch and about a 4lb sledge on it and soaked the **** out of it with pb and wd40 and alot of em, but it finally came out. Thanks for the info guys!!!!!!!!


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## wyo58

Bet that felt good !


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## tirebuilderms

oh yea, almost as good as sex. lmao. i was so relieved to get that thing out. I kinda wanna do the bolt and nut thing but then again id like to put a pin back in it


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## NMKawierider

tirebuilderms said:


> oh yea, almost as good as sex. lmao. i was so relieved to get that thing out. I kinda wanna do the bolt and nut thing but then again id like to put a pin back in it


Do yourself a favor...get a fresh pin.


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## wyo58

And maybe a little anti-sieze on the roll pin


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## tirebuilderms

yea, i think i will man. I appreciate it


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## Polaris425

I'd go w/ a nut & bolt... lol I ran them on the 425 w/o any issues... There's not really any stress on them. (the bolt that is)


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## tirebuilderms

i got one this mornin from polaris, 3.84 for it. not bad, i got an assortment of roll pins from a tool store and got to comparing them and i doubt theyd work. the factory pin is more of a spring type pin and looks like it would hold grip better than most anything else.


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