# 1st time water pump seal repair



## dman66

Thanks to all who posted up on how to replace the water pump and oil seal.I did not have to remove the stator cover to get to the oil seal,and it was not a hard job at all.I used a medium size flathead screwdriver to knock in the edges of the mechanical seal till I could pull it out, and I used a small flathead control screwdriver to dig out the old failing oil seal,came out with a little persuasion,and you will destroy the old mech. Seal when you pull it out. used a 16mm deep socket to reseat the new oil seal,and the mechanical seal was easy to,I think I used a 1" deep socket to seat the metal ring into the stator cover,and used a 7/8" socket to push in the impeller seal to gently seat it into impeller - just gotta be gentle with seating the seal due to it is fragile - do not use a hammer to seat the impeller side seal,or you will break it !!!!!! - I got an extra set just in case.I'll fill her up on Friday,and see if all is well after starting it up......


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## bruteman92

glad to hear its not that hard.. i need to replace mine here in the near near future.


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## DLB

Doesn't sound bad at all. I had to replace the seals on my grizzly 700 and it was quite a job.


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## mrtosh

Dman do you happen to have the part numbers handy? I've been searching but can't find anything. Guessing the part numbers would be the same for the 650 as well? Did the mechanical seal come with the seal for the impeller as well?

So did you just drain the oil and coolant, remove the water pump housing/impeller, and then you were able to remove and install both the oil seal and the mechanical seal without removing the stator cover or anything else?

Thanks in advance!

Sean


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## dman66

I should have the part #'s on those parts.gotta wait till I get home later today.Yes drain all coolant,drain oil from engine,remove water pump cover,remove water pump impellar,then you will see the mechanical seal first I believe then the oil seal behind it.Just changed mine last weekend. It's a pain to change. Go ahead and change the oil seal while your in there, It's right behind it. Found the info on this site - here ya go........

SEAL-MECHANICAL - 49063-1055
GASKET,WATER PUMP - 11060-1964
SEAL-OIL,AC037AE0 - 92049-1228
GASKET, ENGINE COVER - 11061-1119
GASKET, STARTER COVER - 11061-1153


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## BIGPUN

You wouldnt use the bottom 2 part #'s if you just remove the waterpump, Am i correct?


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## mrtosh

Thanks Dman! Did you change the Teflon seal on the impeller as well? Did that come with the mechanical seal? Just pound in the lip until you can grab it and remove the mechanical seal and then how did you remove the oil seal behind it?


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## dman66

BIGPUN,you don't need those other gaskets - only need them if you plan on pulling stator cover off.

mrtosh,yes the mechanical seal comes complete with the impellar seal part,and I just tapped in the edges of the metal on the mechanical seal till I was able to grab it with pliers and pull it out.The oil seal I used a small flatblade screwdriver to pick it out,but a pick with a hook would work better.Just take your time removing and installing new parts,and don't force the seals onto the shaft when installing...


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## mrtosh

Excellent! Thanks for the help! So the only real reason to pull the side cover would be to replace the bearing?


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## dman66

I'm not sure about the bearing,but that would be the only reason I would think why one would pull the stator cover off to replace seals - much easier not to pull stator cover off and a little patience pulling the old seals out.Most important thing is not to nick,scratch,or gouge the seal mounting areas,and I cleaned those areas twice with heavy duty paper shop towels soaked with brake cleaner to get rid of oil residue where the seals mate to the stator cover......


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## mrtosh

Sounds good! Thanks again sir!


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## todbnla

Doing this job now, water pump impeller off, water seals out will post pics later


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## dman66

Please do take pics. Be patient and careful


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## todbnla

*Now with Pics!*

*Tear Down:

*

*(Not shown-Drain engine oil and coolant)*
*Remove screws holding side plastics and coolant bottle on,*
*Disconnect hoses going in and out of coolant tank, remove tank.*
*Remove front radiator hose from water pump housing*
*Remove 4 bolts holding water pump housing on, remove cover*


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## todbnla

*Pics 2*

*A lil more to go:

*

*Remove ceramic seal from housing, be careful, aluminum is soft and will scratch easy!*
*Oil seal will now be visible, clean oil residue out with brake or carb cleaner, when clean move on to next step*
*Remove oil seal, again be careful, this is a smaller area to work in
*
*Once old oil seal is out, jam a cloth inside area to keep out debris and proceed with cleaning the gasket mating surfaces, once surface is free of old gasket, clean up debris again*
*Clean water pump cover mating surfaces and impeller, Prep for new gasket and seal*


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## todbnla

*Putting it back together*

*Reassembly time:

*

* Since these seals and gasket were pretty cheap I ordered 2 of each part and that turned out to be a good idea because I ruined the first ceramic seal I tried to install, it went in cocked sideways and had to be removed and trashed.*
*Install oil seal with a 16 MM socket, deep if possible, pretty easy*
*Next install ceramic seal into stator cover with 1" socket, again a DEEP socket will be best and give you more room to maneuver, this is the hardest seal to get in be patient and take you time.
*
*Install smaller ceramic seal into impeller, I put a lil oil on the outer rubber and was able to press it in with my thumbs or as mentioned a 7/8" socket and tap lightly until seated.Reinstall impeller and torque nut to 69 INCH lbs!*


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## todbnla

*Final items:
*

* Reinstall impeller and torque to 69 INCH lbs*
*Reinstall cover, tighten bolts in crisscross pattern and then torque to 79 INCH lbs*
*Reconnect front radiator hose, then two smaller coolant hoses to side coolant tank and leave loose for leak check test run
*
*Fill radiator with 50/50 coolant distilled water mix, fill engine oil with fresh oil*
*Test run, bring bike up to operating temp, recheck coolant level and check for leaks, if none are found, remount tank and refasten side plastic panels and your good to go wheeling!
*


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## dman66

Very nice job todbnla. Well done.


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## todbnla

dman66 said:


> Very nice job todbnla. Well done.


*THANK YOU* for originally posting, all I did was add my pics to assist others with your great info


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## BIGPUN

Good write up. Wish it was here before I did mine...

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk


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## dudley237

*OIL Seal replacement*

todbnla,

Looking your third picture where you show the Oil seal before you install the mechanical seal on the post above.......which side faced the mechanical seal? I'm afraid I have put mine on wrong. There is a flat side and a groved side. When I installed mine, my flat side is facing my mechanical seal. Is that right? When I took everything apart, there was nothing left of the oil seal so I didn't really have anything to go by. Looking at your picture, I put it on the right way but just want to make sure. Also, I don't have an adjustable torque wrench to verify tightening my impeller to 69 inch/lb, how would you recommend me tightening it and coming to a stopping point to prevent over tightening? Thanks,

Scott in AL


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## dman66

Just to clarify the last post, yes the flat side of the oil seal goes away from the engine - the grooved side goes towards the engine.


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## hursteric

if you have a foot lb torque wrench just divide 69 by 12 and that will give you 5.75 so i would go about 5.5 lbs with the torque wrench and then just use a normal wrench to give another half turn or so.


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## bruteforcee

Same way i did mine. Nice


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## Bill Russel

Should I do this immediately, or am I good to keep riding for a bit,(Leaking oil does not bother me that much, it’s only a couple of drops a day)


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## NMKawierider

Bill Russel said:


> Should I do this immediately, or am I good to keep riding for a bit,(Leaking oil does not bother me that much, it’s only a couple of drops a day)


Well, it means the seal is bad and will only get worse. It also means if the bottom side of the engine spends much time under water the chances of water getting back to the crank case is increased. And if by chance the weep tube gets plugged and cand drain that oil, it will fill the weep chamber and ride against the water pump's machanical seal...and that will take it out causing a massive coolant leak...which if that tube is plugged up, will be pushed into the crank case taking out the bearings. So...if it were me...I would plan on doing it soon. Plan on replacing both seals, probably the shaft and maybe the bearing if it has any play.


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## Bill Russel

Ok thanks, but one more question, should I just do the seal if it is leaking (So I only have to take off the water pump cover) or should I take it completely apart, and do the bearing while I am at it, thanks in advance


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## NMKawierider

Bill Russel said:


> Ok thanks, but one more question, should I just do the seal if it is leaking (So I only have to take off the water pump cover) or should I take it completely apart, and do the bearing while I am at it, thanks in advance


As I recall you will have to pull the cover completely off and remove the water pump impeller and shaft anyway. And once you seperate the two parts of the water pump seal it will have to be replaced...or at least it should be. You won't know the condition of the bearing until you can see if the shaft has any movement so...the bearing is probably OK but it is strange to have the oil seal fail before the water pump seal. Check the crank case vent to make sure it's open and free of any blockage. If pressure builds in the crank case it will push oil out the seals.


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## Bill Russel

Ok I have a little black story on the machine. Bought it in late December (I have a 2005 Brute force 650 SRA) barely running. It had about 450 miles and the guy told me that it had been sitting for about ten years. I clean out the carbs and 
drained the gas(Looked really bad), then the thing ran mint. I did a oil change and checked all of the bearings(all good). As far as I recall it did not start leaking until February(but my memory is not the best, I was away from the machine for about a month between January and February). It is leaking from the weep tube coming down from the water pump on the left side on the engine. It hardly leaks at all when it is cold and parked. But after I get it hot, and then park it it leaks a ok amount(If I leave it for about 15 min there is a 5in by 5 in puddle)for a bit until it is cool. My guess then and it still is now is when the machine is cold the oil is nice and thick, and it is hard for it to find its way past the seal. When it is hot however(and parked) the oil is much more thin, therefore it leaks a lot more and it finds it way around the seal a lot better. I think that the seal got dry and old for its ten years of sitting. The machine does not leak when running(I believe that it does not leak because the pump is in motion). The bearing/pump does make a bit for noise, but I figured that this was normal because my dad has the same machine(08 brute force 650 SRA) and his pump also makes the same noise at idle, but it does not leak. Where would the crank case vent be, and how would I check to see if it was blocked? If this information changed your mind about your opinions please let me know. Much thanks!


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## NMKawierider

No, it doesn't change my thinking. It's leaking so it needs fixed. I have never heard a water pump shaft bearing make noise though. It really shouldn't. Crank case vent comes out of a port on top of the case close to the transmission shifter shaft and heads up to the air box. Pretty good size...like a 3/8-7/16" line.


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## Bill Russel

How would you recommend checking if the line is clogged? I have been reading on the other forums, All I really see is the line getting re routed to different places. I don’t see any body talking about the crankcase vent being clogged. I will follow up with images/video later once it becomes light again


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## NMKawierider

Bill Russel said:


> How would you recommend checking if the line is clogged? I have been reading on the other forums, All I really see is the line getting re routed to different places. I don’t see any body talking about the crankcase vent being clogged. I will follow up with images/video later once it becomes light again


Sonetimes people move them and they get pinched. Sometimes, because Brutes are bad about spitting oil into the air box, people take them off and either put nothing on the end or put something that gets plugged. If its still to the air box, inspect the line for any links or smashed spots. Then pull the air filter and find the port inside and use a second hose to blow back and forth through it. Be sure to take the dip stick out otherwise you won't do much. If it flows easy it's OK.


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## Bill Russel

How would you recommend checking if the line is clogged? I have been reading on the other forums, All I really see is the line getting re routed to different places. I don’t see any body talking about the crankcase vent being clogged.


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## NMKawierider

Bill Russel said:


> How would you recommend checking if the line is clogged? I have been reading on the other forums, All I really see is the line getting re routed to different places. I don’t see any body talking about the crankcase vent being clogged.


See my previous post.


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## Bill Russel

So I got to the line today, and everything is fine with it, it’s is not pinched nor blocked, I could blow and suck air fine out of it with the dipstick out. I am going to proceed to just replace the mechanical seal, unless you have any other ideas of what may have caused it?


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## Bill Russel

So I got to the line today, and everything is fine with it, it’s is not pinched nor blocked, I could blow and suck air fine out of it with the dipstick out. I am going to proceed to just replace the mechanical seal, unless you have any other ideas of what may have caused it?


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## NMKawierider

Bill Russel said:


> So I got to the line today, and everything is fine with it, it’s is not pinched nor blocked, I could blow and suck air fine out of it with the dipstick out. I am going to proceed to* just replace the mechanical seal,* unless you have any other ideas of what may have caused it?


There are two seals on that shaft- the oil seal...which is leaking and the mechanical seal for the water pump, which at the moment is not. Once apart you will need to replace both. My theory - It sat for a long time with the oil seal not moving against the shaft. We know in time the rubber can stick to things so it's likely it was stuck to the shaft and when it got started, it tore the edge of the wipe off. You will probably see a mark on the shaft where the seal was riding and maybe a little torn-off rubber if you look close enough. Do clean and polish the shaft and check for any movement on the bearing through the shaft.

One other word to the wise- on that mechanical seal, make darn sure no oils get between the two surfaces..not even a finger print. Don't even touch it on that surface. Otherwise it will leak. Lube it ONLY with water or coolant.


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## Bill Russel

Yep, I meant the oil seal, I am not going to take off the whole side cover, just the pump cover and replace the oil seal there, if you can, correct me if I am mistaken. Like I said the machine has very low hours and miles, so I believe that the bearing and shaft does not need to be done. I am just going to do the seals, I will do a visual inspection to see if the seals I take out are damaged. Do you think that I will be ok not doing the bearing or shaft, I am just thinking this because it has low hours and miles.


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## NMKawierider

With the low hours it is unlikely there is anything wrong with the shaft or bearing..or chain for that matter. Just check when apart.


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## dman66

I wonder if he read any of this how to ?
Especially post # 14 through # 17 ?


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## NMKawierider

dman66 said:


> I wonder if he read any of this how to ?
> Especially post # 14 through # 17 ?


I hope so. Still think it would be easier to clean-up and get the seals out to pull the cover but at least it can be done without doing so.


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