# Brute 750 timing chain questions



## emailrick1 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hey guys. does anyone have any idea where to get a decent price for all timing chains, guides and tensioners for BF750? My timing chains are rattling like crazy and I just want to change everything while Im in there... cant find source other than dealer.... thanks

Slick


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

dealercostparts.com will be your best bet. lowest markup with cheapest shipping.
for OEM parts the dealer is a good bet for getting the stuff at the lowest price.


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

How old is the bike it may be bad tensioners. Seems to be a common issue. I have a set on my parts engine. find the price and PM me if you need em. Not looking to get rich,just helping out.


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## emailrick1 (Jul 6, 2010)

roboquad... its an 05 has a few hrs on it but not outragous.... the motor runs great, just noisy as all get out.... the tensioners would be easy enough to change I guess first.... I would like to put a New set on but what are you looking for yours maybe I can just pop them on and see what happens?


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## nathangunn28 (Jul 27, 2010)

emailrick1.... if you happen to tackle this would u mind taking a few pics of where and how you get at all the chains and tensioners out and in. Mine are shot but i am very nervous about starting to dig into the inners of my bike. I would like to but no idea where to start on this task or what special tools or instruments are needed to ensure it comes apart and goes back together in working order. Insluding if new gaskets or seals are needed anywhere. Thanks and good luck with the work


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

50 for *both* shipped sound OK? there have been several people with tensioners that dont work properly and cause rattle. I kept x-tra's just in case. If you get mine I will likely have the problem next. LOL. To do the chains is quite a bit more complicated.


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

*NathanG.
no* special tools other than socket set, screwdrivers , pipe wrench for pull start, a cork for the water line. _*LOTS OF PATIENCE*_ and cold beer. would not recommend this unless you have beaten the bike good without oil changes...the hardest part is timing. I would take it to the dealer for this as you are likely to bend a valve your first time through. how many miles?


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

OH... just checked on line* $140-$150* for two new ones. so 50 isn't so bad. IMO.


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

dang them things new cost more than i would have guessed for sure.
how can you tell they are bad?


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## BIGCOUNTRY750 (Jun 23, 2009)

I can get you all four chains for under 100 dollars! I recommend changing all four if u gonna tear it down! The auxilary chain is the most common for wearing out first! PM me if u need them. And I can get any Kawie part cheaper than u can buy it online! Crank rods gaskets any of them


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## nathangunn28 (Jul 27, 2010)

Robo
I have about 3000kms on it, and when i had it stripped down for the jetting and new muzzy i checked every possible rattle causing spot and it is just seeming to get worse.
I am willing to bet the bike it is from the tensioners or the chains from what i have heard from everyone on here. 
I just don't wanna only do the tensioners (once i find out how) if the chains are needed to be changed also.

Any how to's on just the tensioners floating around anywhere could not find one anywhere and from the sounds of it lots of people are dooing them lately.

Oh and oil has never been an issue i do oil in both diff's / engine and filter about every 300 to 400kms

Thanks


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## emailrick1 (Jul 6, 2010)

thanks Bigcountry... PM sent..... ROBO, thanks... I have a buddy that has a parts motor as well, I think I am going to rob 2 tensioners off it just to rule that out... if it fixes it I will owe him 2 tensioners haha... OK thanks again...


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

*cool* , good luck and make sure to post if that was the fix.


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## emailrick1 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hey ROBO.... just FYI on www.bikebandit.com those tensioners are $87 each new...

12048: 
TENSIONER-ASSY,CAM

758624
(1475740-001)







$87.33


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## nathangunn28 (Jul 27, 2010)

http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx

Any body ever order from this place all there prices seem really good compared to what i have been seeing posted on here, 

Also the tensioners are they the part # 12053 and 12053A in this diagraghm and what else woudl i need?


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

Try cheap cycle parts . My favorite.


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## nathangunn28 (Jul 27, 2010)

Sorry to be a pain, but what parts are you guys changing exactly to get rid of the rattle there are a bunch of little parts and bolts along with the the longer things called tensioners when you look at the part diagrahm for that area? Also do i need to order any gaskets or anything for when the cover is split and taken off?


Also is there any difference in the 2006 models i see there is one with "A" one "B" and one "C" when you look at the models?

Are both of the tensioners on the recoil side of the engine as i am understanding there are chains on the cvt side as well but am i correct i don't need to go into that side?


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

regarding location 
front tensioner = rear of front cylinder on RIGHT side of bike
rear tensioner = rear of back cylinder of LEFT side of bike (located near the base)


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

here's the front one. You can see it in this pic above the connector labeled unplug


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

*ok PREE..*. that can* not *be *your* engine....that thing is clean enough to eat off. Oh also take the larger center bolt out first. inside is a spring and stud inside the spring. don't loose these. the tension only works one way so bolt goes in after you have re attached the housing with the 8mm. bolts.


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## nathangunn28 (Jul 27, 2010)

So all i have to do it take off the two bolts and a small cap?? i was under impression i had to remove recoil and everything and engine cover to get at them. It is just the big and small bolt ? and a small cap? how do u adjust them ? or do they just slide in. LOL i am very confused now and to think i just had my carbs apart 20 times i though this would be easy lol. Can you just clean and replace old or do they loose there strength once they need to be replaced. (mind me i have no idea what i am even replacing yet lol)


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

that is only the tensioner. if u remove the 2 8mm bolts. its pulls out.. actually twist it a little. there's a rubber oring on it that's pretty tight. 
you'll see what the bigger bolt on it is for once you take it out. its to reset the tensioner.


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

its not mine. haha mine is brown.

here's a pic of where the front tensioner is.


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## nathangunn28 (Jul 27, 2010)

So if i am understanding this correctly take the two mounting smaller bolts out. That will let me take out the tensioner. Then the larger bolt is to reset or to adjust the tensioner???? can you take it out and reset it or do you have to replace it ? And is there any thing i need to know about how it comes out or more importantly how it goes in properly without messing anything up>?
Thanks Phreeb the pics at least got me a visual of where i am now


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

in order to reset it, you need to pull it out. 
you will undo the larger bolt in the center first. that will take tension off and you can then remove it by taking out the two smaller ones


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## nathangunn28 (Jul 27, 2010)

so once out can you just clean them up and put back in then you tighten the centre bolt ? How tight do you do it and can you just tighten it now with the assumption it has slackened off?


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

you'll see how it works when it comes out. 

there's a springloaded ratcheting mechanism that doesnt let it reset once its out.

the bolt does nothing but put pressure on the spring that pushes the pin against the chain guide.
there's nbo adjustment on it.


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## nathangunn28 (Jul 27, 2010)

So last question I hope,,, so do you tork the larger bolt down or turn till it stops when reinstalling? Also can u interchange them to see if that is actually the problem or is there any way to tell before you go out and buy new ones? I would hate to get new ones then find out my valves are rattling?


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## nathangunn28 (Jul 27, 2010)

Phreebs or any other guru, I talked to my dealer and they said if I am pulling the tensioners I have to make sure the cylinder is top dead centre on either compression or exhaust stroke? First thing does that need to be done? And if so how do u do it before you take out the tensioner? Thanks again I wanna try to get at it this afternoon if I am comfortable enough with it


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## blackbluebrute (Feb 16, 2010)

phreebsd said:


> you'll see how it works when it comes out.
> 
> there's a springloaded ratcheting mechanism that doesnt let it reset once its out.
> 
> ...


If there is no adjustment then why mess or does something get replaced 
if worn:confusion:


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## narfbrain (Sep 25, 2012)

nathangunn28 said:


> Robo
> I have about 3000kms on it, and when i had it stripped down for the jetting and new muzzy i checked every possible rattle causing spot and it is just seeming to get worse.
> I am willing to bet the bike it is from the tensioners or the chains from what i have heard from everyone on here.
> I just don't wanna only do the tensioners (once i find out how) if the chains are needed to be changed also.
> ...



just to start with the easiest and most common source of the noise have you done a valve set on it?


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## dman66 (Feb 20, 2011)

Not that this is the correct way or not,I first loosen the center nut which will give you access to the spring loaded tensioner - once the center cap comes out,the spring in there will want to fly out tnce the spring tension is off the tensioner,then you can remove the two smaller bolts and remove the chain tensioner - pay close attention to how far out the adjuster/tensioner is - my adjusters were 1/2 way out.When you reinstall,retract the tensioner towards the large outter cap then reinstall the tensioner assembly - once the assembly is back in,reinstall the pin,spring,and cap in the center and tighten it up.I just pulled mine out one at a time to check without ever making sure top dead center - not sure if it is right way or not - just don't rotate the engine or wheels while doing it - maybe gurus will chime in on this topic......


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