# Help with splitting crankcase



## beach83 (Nov 5, 2010)

*pics of rod bearings, do they look bad? Help with splitting crankcase/*

Having a problem getting the cases apart. I have double checked all bolts are out. tried splitting at the pry marks on case. but it doesnt want to come apart. I dont want to start hammering on the cases if i dont have to. afraid i might break the case. Anyone run into a solution or a easier way to get them apart please help. thanks.


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## BleednGreen68 (Apr 19, 2010)

Make sure you check all shafts that are exposed on the outside for rust and dirt build up. Sand them down then try. Is it cracked open at all?


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## beach83 (Nov 5, 2010)

No, i cant even get it to split open at all. Im starting to mess up the index mark where you pry into to get them apart.


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## beach83 (Nov 5, 2010)

finally got them apart. took a little more force than i thought, but they popped apart. 
My problem now is, the bearings dont look like they were spun around the crank. 

How bad do they usually look? im familiar with car motors and they look bad when the spin a bearing. I was told by a couple of people, even a tech at the dealer that is was a rod bearing. I know he has done alot of them, i know the guy through a friend. 

i did find some small pieces of metal in the case. Where else could the knocking have been coming from? i adjusted valves and there was no exhaust leak. 

In the first pic there is a piece of metal on my finger that i pulled out the motor. it was stuck to the f/r switch, which is a magnet. 

when i took the bearings out of the rod ends the back side of them are darker in color. it hard to see the difference in the pics. 

any help or suggestions appriciated, thanks.


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## skid (Jun 18, 2009)

have you used a plastigauge to see if the clearance is correct? They look good though from what i see, both times mine went it was definetly noticeable.


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## beach83 (Nov 5, 2010)

not yet. try to find time later today to check. i have to get a new crank anyway. the end of it split and had to be cut off. even with the special kawi tool.

I did notice when taking the pistons off the rod i did not need to press out the piston pin. It just slid right out when i removed the c clips. Not sure if that could have been the knocking noise i had


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## BleednGreen68 (Apr 19, 2010)

Could've been your clutch knocking. I had one brute in the shop that sounded like rods but it was the clutch was worn out. How do the cylinders and pistons look? I've never seen it in a brute but maybe it had some piston slap? Usually rods go before piston slap shows up.


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## DjScrimm (Jan 2, 2009)

beach83 said:


> not yet. try to find time later today to check. i have to get a new crank anyway. the end of it split and had to be cut off. even with the special kawi tool.
> 
> I did notice when taking the pistons off the rod i did not need to press out the piston pin. It just slid right out when i removed the c clips. Not sure if that could have been the knocking noise i had


From my little experience the bearings look to be in good condition. Check your clearances to be sure though. My piston pins slid/slide out rather easily too.

Expensive mistake with the crank, asshole down at the shop split mine like that when i got them to pull the flywheel. He said "i figured that would happen".... You've got to leave the bolt in the end of the crank when pulling the wheel, otherwise it pulls in too far and splits it.


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## beach83 (Nov 5, 2010)

I havent checked the cylinders yet, need to get a bore gauge, they look good still can kind of see hatch marks. The pistons measured out good still. they do have some slight de-glaze marks above the skirts where they were wearing into the cyliders. 

I plasti gauged the old rods to the crank and they were ok. But im still going to replace rod and bearings to be safe. 

Do you think re using the pistons and re ringing them would be ok? and ball honing the cylinders. 

Also what do you guys use for break in oil. I know some circle track guys around here use oil with ZINK in it for break in. They say it help to not wear off cam lobes. Just wanting to see what you guys use for the brutes.


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## beach83 (Nov 5, 2010)

BleednGreen68 said:


> Could've been your clutch knocking. I had one brute in the shop that sounded like rods but it was the clutch was worn out. How do the cylinders and pistons look? I've never seen it in a brute but maybe it had some piston slap? Usually rods go before piston slap shows up.



What should i check in the clutches. I have new springs that im going to install after i get it running and tuned. 
The knocking i had in it was conssistant with rpm in neutral, forward and reverse.


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## BleednGreen68 (Apr 19, 2010)

There are bushings in those clutches. Check looseness. Rollers wear out. A knocking clutch sounds like knocking rods. I think it would knock more at idle. Then when its up to rpm it would kinda stop.


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## beach83 (Nov 5, 2010)

BleednGreen68 said:


> There are bushings in those clutches. Check looseness. Rollers wear out. A knocking clutch sounds like knocking rods. I think it would knock more at idle. Then when its up to rpm it would kinda stop.


Thanks for the info, I did some searching after a posted that last comment and it sounds like if it was the clutch it would go away with rpm. Mine got worse with rpm. But im going to check out the primary since i have it out anyway.


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