# fan switch in radiator not working.



## No_Substitue_For_A_Brute (May 4, 2011)

2005 Brute Force 750. Runs hot because the fan is not working. Checked fan on a battery and its good. Put it back in and jumperd the wires on the fan switch in the radiator per the manual. Fan runs indicating bad fan switch.

My question is do i need to just replace the fan switch or could something else cause this. Low coolant, etc? Just want to make sure its not something more simple before I go the dealer and get the part.

thanks!


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

If it were me I'd just wire it up on a toggle and be done with it. Just my $0.02


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

No_Substitue_For_A_Brute said:


> 2005 Brute Force 750. Runs hot because the fan is not working. Checked fan on a battery and its good. Put it back in and jumperd the wires on the fan switch in the radiator per the manual. Fan runs indicating bad fan switch.
> 
> My question is do i need to just replace the fan switch or could something else cause this. Low coolant, etc? Just want to make sure its not something more simple before I go the dealer and get the part.
> 
> thanks!


If the coolant is low it might work so check that first. I'd say just get a new fan switch and you will be set.


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## No_Substitue_For_A_Brute (May 4, 2011)

Polaris425 said:


> If it were me I'd just wire it up on a toggle and be done with it. Just my $0.02


I'm thinking of doing a fan switch but I don't want it on all time as I do a lot of water and mud and don't want to have to turn it off and on all the time because I know I will forget to turn it back on and run it hot.



nmkawierider said:


> If the coolant is low it might but the air temp and the coolant temp in that area should be close enough to close the switch so I'd say just get a new fan switch and you will be set.


That was my thoughts too.

Thanks to you both!


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## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

Agreed if your coolant is low it would make the fan temp switch not operate. IMO If the level is ok I'd get the replacement fan switch and if you wanted an aux switch you can turn on manually then wire it in parrallel with the stock fan switch.


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

Did you ever replace the fan breaker/switch thats under the seat with a fuse? Its a little grey box (slightly larger than a fuse) with two wires going to it, these have been quite well known for going bad or tripping and will cause the fan to not work.(it has a little green indicator button that will stick out a tiny bit, you have to be looking for it) After the fan going out on me twice and them having to replace the switch twice on warranty, Kawasaki service dept instructed me to unplug this and plug a 15amp fuse back in its place.... I did so and never had another issue. This was on my first 07 sra that I bought. I later bought a used 06 sra and did the same, and my 750 has also been done this way. My dad's 07 750 was done this way by Kawi a few weeks after they told me to do it. It will not hurt a thing, if something were to short out it would blow the fuse, and also your fan will still go on and off like it should. If you havn't done this I highly recommend trying it before you get frustrated with your cooling system, but do add coolant though lol.


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## bennapa55 (Oct 15, 2010)

For sure if coolant is too low fan does not work. I just went through this same issue.. I topped up my rad and all is 100%. The switch needs hot coolant to know its hot, hot air doesnt cut it!


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## No_Substitue_For_A_Brute (May 4, 2011)

Well I got out and checked the coolant level this morning. Radiator is full and the reservoir is full too so its definately not low coolant causing the issue. I've got a fan switch on order and until it gets here I've got the wires jumperd when I'm riding.



filthyredneck said:


> Did you ever replace the fan breaker/switch thats under the seat with a fuse? Its a little grey box (slightly larger than a fuse) with two wires going to it, these have been quite well known for going bad or tripping and will cause the fan to not work.(it has a little green indicator button that will stick out a tiny bit, you have to be looking for it) After the fan going out on me twice and them having to replace the switch twice on warranty, Kawasaki service dept instructed me to unplug this and plug a 15amp fuse back in its place.... I did so and never had another issue. This was on my first 07 sra that I bought. I later bought a used 06 sra and did the same, and my 750 has also been done this way. My dad's 07 750 was done this way by Kawi a few weeks after they told me to do it. It will not hurt a thing, if something were to short out it would blow the fuse, and also your fan will still go on and off like it should. If you havn't done this I highly recommend trying it before you get frustrated with your cooling system, but do add coolant though lol.


I looked up the breaker in the manual and it appears to be right behind the starter relay but when I look at mine there is nothing there except the tab for it to slide onto. I've had this bike less than two months now so maybe the previous owner moved it? 

Looking at the wiring diagram fire feeds to the breaker first, then to the fan switch. So since I can bypass the fan switch and it works the breaker would have to be working...right?


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

Yeah I would think the breaker would be working if the fan works when bypassing the switch. If the breaker is removed already, maybe they spliced the wires together or already replaced it with a fused link:thinking:? I don't have my brute in front of me, but I think the two wires are blue with white stripes.....


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## No_Substitue_For_A_Brute (May 4, 2011)

filthyredneck said:


> Yeah I would think the breaker would be working if the fan works when bypassing the switch. If the breaker is removed already, maybe they spliced the wires together or already replaced it with a fused link:thinking:? I don't have my brute in front of me, but I think the two wires are blue with white stripes.....


I found the breaker. It was sitting where the belt reset connector should be, appears the reset connector is missing :34:. One wire is white the other is blue with a white stripe, compared that to the manual and its correct. Checked the breaker and it seems to be working fine. Has to be the fan switch just went out on me. Guess I will know next week when the part gets in.


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