# little water in my brute force oil



## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

I bought my brute force 750 this winter and did it up for the mud and water! The problem is I'm getting a touch of water in my oil when I'm riding in the deep stuff but I know for sure its not coming in my intake because its snorkeled high and I also ran my crack case vent line to the handle bars so its not coimg in there either! My buddy told me its because of my muzzy exhaust he said if I don't keep revs high that water can easily run back in? Just wanna see if anyone has any idea of why this is happening? Or if anyone has had the same problem?


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## mossyoak54 (Jan 16, 2012)

You shouldn't be getting water in through the exhaust as long as it never dies under water. 


Sent from the mans IPhone.


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## 2010Bruterider (Jun 20, 2010)

Check the rear out put seal. They are notorious for leaking. Also check the front output seal. What about the seals behind your clutches? It sounds like it is creeping in somewhere. Look for any and all oil leaks on the motor. If oil can leak out, water can leak in.


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

There is a duckbill drain on the air box in the right upper corner check that could have dirt in it holding it open just a hare. This hole should be filled with silicone so just pull the lid off and check it and seal it off that would be my guess or the rubber boots that connect the air box to the intake could be loose too.

Should be working on it instead of talking about it..


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

I haven't checked any oil seal yet and it can't be the duck bill thing because theres no water getting in the air box at all. And the reason I'm not pulling it apart more yet is because it doesn't idle good under water in the first place so that make me think its gotta be coming in the pipe somehow so I don't wanna pull stuff off I don't need to!


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

Make a exhaust snorkel and see if it stops. I made one for my stock pipe and she purrs like a kitten just sitting in water up to the top of the seat now. Before it would have stalled.

Should be working on it instead of talking about it..


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## bigblackbrute (Jun 3, 2009)

Makr sure uve gt a good seal around the dip stick and the o ring is in good shape

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## walker (Apr 5, 2009)

i'm with 2010 brute rider sounds like an seal leaking to me


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

"Should be working on it instead of talking about it.." Its kinda hard to work on it when I don't know what's wrong so you can quit telling me to go work on it!!


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

broncoboy said:


> "Should be working on it instead of talking about it.." Its kinda hard to work on it when I don't know what's wrong so you can quit telling me to go work on it!!


calm down. that's his tapatalk signature.... so lose the attitude, and appreciate the fact that everyone is trying to help you get it right.


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

No attitude just need help and don't know what top do!


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

are you sure the dipstick is on tight. Plus there should be an o-ring on it.


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## walker (Apr 5, 2009)

where are you located .. there maybe a memb er that lives close to you that might can help you.. i've seen this problem before i would check the front and rear seals ..


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

I'm in manitoba canada so I donno if there any other members around here! I got told that if anyone would know why I'm having this problem it would be the guys on this site so I was just giving it a shot cuz I can't afford go to the dealership


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

We do have a good many members up there.


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## whoolieshop (Mar 22, 2011)

For what it's worth, the ONLY way water can get into your oil via the exhaust pipe would be for the water to overcome the pressure of the exhaust gasses, find its way all the way down the pipes, get into the cylinder, and go past the rings.

Water will NOT compress if you're getting water in the cylinder with the piston via the exhaust or intake it will stop the engine and once stopped prevent it from starting, possibly bending a rod or valve if you keep trying to crank it hydrolocked. Anyways this isn't your problem.

As stated before front and rear seals are where your water is most likely to be coming in. You won't find a fix for water intrusion with any exhaust pipe change.


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## NMFP (Mar 12, 2012)

Head gasket? Are you losing antifreeze?


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

I'm with everybody else that has suggested seals......sounds just like a rear output shaft seal to me. I had to change one at Mud Stock last year for the exact same reason. Now I don't go anywhere far from home without a great big zip-lok bag full of misc brute seals.


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

Not it has never lost antifreeze! I just thought it had to be getting in though the pipe because when I am in deep water and not on the throttle is runs different but if I'm on the throttle it run perfect! I didn't think the output seal was leaking but ill have to have another look when I get home tonight


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## walker (Apr 5, 2009)

if your getting water threw the exhuast while its running you got issues .. there is no way that is happening.. look at your seals.. trust us..


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## Stimpy (Jan 26, 2012)

Is it carbed or fi? Your deference in throttle could have something to do with your jet/comp set up.




100 things to do and wasting time on tapatalk!!!


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

it is efi and is there a how to video for the rear output seal on here?


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## mossyoak54 (Jan 16, 2012)

If its going in through the output seals it is not necessarily gonna leak out oil. They have all given pretty good input on what it is. And more than likely it is. I wouldn't rule it out until you change it and see. And more than one (actually all) these guys know what there talking about trust me lol. 


Sent from the mans IPhone.


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## vogie (Jun 16, 2010)

broncoboy said:


> I'm in manitoba canada so I donno if there any other members around here! I got told that if anyone would know why I'm having this problem it would be the guys on this site so I was just giving it a shot cuz I can't afford go to the dealership


Are you close to Winnipeg or Brandon? I'm in Brandon but if you are in Winnipeg or close to there Adventure Power Products are the people to see. They will help you out no problems!


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

Polaris425 said:


> calm down. that's his tapatalk signature.... so lose the attitude, and appreciate the fact that everyone is trying to help you get it right.


Wow guess I got to change my signature 

Should be working on it instead of talking about it..


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## walker (Apr 5, 2009)

yea you better


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

I wouldnt really change it. Maybe figure out a way to make sure its seen as a sig and not part of the post...

anyway back on topic


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

Try what we all where saying and u should be good to go. :sly:

(2011 750 I should be working on it instead of talking about it)


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

Just looked at the rear seal and it seems to have some leakage around so I'm I safe to say that will be the problem?


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## mossyoak54 (Jan 16, 2012)

Id say you'd be right 


Sent from the mans IPhone.


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## Stimpy (Jan 26, 2012)

That's probably it, do you have a programmer on your bike to adjust for the hmf? Sounds like that would be causing your idling problem.




100 things to do and wasting time on tapatalk!!!


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

No I have a muzzy full system and no programmer! Is there one I should be looking into?


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## redneckrancher420 (Jul 5, 2011)

power commander, idk if its the 3 or 5 for yalls bikes. pretty sure if its a 2011 its a 5


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## Stimpy (Jan 26, 2012)

Sry I need to pay better attention, yes with an aftermarket exhoust and snorkels you need a programmer as you have altered the air/fuel mixture the bike is programmed for. I'd get a pc or msd. With the proper map it should fix your idling problems.




100 things to do and wasting time on tapatalk!!!


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## bigblackbrute (Jun 3, 2009)

Go with an msd its that best for the efi bikes

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2


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## Coolwizard (Feb 28, 2009)

I don't think its comming thru the exaust either...
Like said above check all your seals. If the problem persist, do some test rides, ride thru holes that are deep enough to cover the seals but not the exaust, then check your oil.


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

Any one know the part number for the rear output seal I need?


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

I read on another thread somewhere and a guy was saying something about there being a updated seal for the rear output shaft...anyone hear of this?


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## walker (Apr 5, 2009)

*750i Seals* 

Front Seal (engine side): 92049-1570
Rear Seal (engine side): 92049-0095
Front Seal (differential side): 92049-1573
Rear Seal (differential side): 92049-0028
Front Diff. Axle Seal: 92049-1534


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

broncoboy said:


> I read on another thread somewhere and a guy was saying something about there being a updated seal for the rear output shaft...anyone hear of this?


This is true. The 2012s come standard with it. I priced the stuff, ends up being a little over $200 for all the stuff to do the upgrade and after that the seals are normal cost to change as needed. (heres a borrowed pic of the updated setup)

"Killing Time Using Tapatalk 2"


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## walker (Apr 5, 2009)

you know how many seals you could buy for 200 dollars lol. a good brute owner can change 1 in 20 minutes ..lol.. kinda like some people i know can change an axle with hand tools in the dirt drunk off jello shots in 35 minutes lol


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## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

walker said:


> kinda like some people i know can change an axle with hand tools in the dirt drunk off jello shots in 35 minutes lol


Now that should def. be a how to video! :rockn:


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

^Bwahahahaha! Don't forget to add.....that it was done on a total stranger's brute, just cuz I hated to see the guy throw away $100. I still argue that it was less than 35 mins, but I dunno, I was pretty toasted between the 50 or so jello shots and the 10 freakin margaritas I had already drank by that point.
I just remember hearing...."I bet I know somebody that weighs a buck 20 that can get that on the first try in just a couple mins"....haha good times


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

So I got the seal in and then went to put my oil drain plug back in and I noticed the crush washer was switched on to the threads of the plug a bit I decieded to put it in the to see if it would still work still and when I was threading it in right about at the point it was gonna start getting tight it just kept threading????? Help I donno what's going on?


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## filthyredneck (Feb 10, 2010)

Hate to say it, but sounds like it may have stripped out on ya. Do a search, I know we've seen that problem several times on here....most guys used a self tapping drain plug from what I recall.


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## walker (Apr 5, 2009)

Go to your local parts store and get a self tapping drain plug. And go own about your business


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

Okay do you think napa would have self tapping drain plugs?


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## tsig (Aug 31, 2011)

Well thanks a million guys I finally got her put back together and ready to ride for tomorrow!!! Couldn't have did it with out the help that's for sure!


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