# How to fix Torn/Ripped front fender (w/ out replacing it)?



## MY07BRUTE (May 24, 2011)

Short of the ol' sheet metal and rivets and plastic welding, whats the best way to fix the front fender with out it looking like *****?

This would be for the nice corner where they all tear when you catch something with the lower flair that sticks out.

thanks


----------



## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

That's pretty much it. Not a whole lot else you can do short of replacing it. There's always duct tape....  haha j/k. 

Seriously though rivets are probably about it, or plastic welding.


----------



## hp488 (Sep 23, 2009)

Drill some holes and zip ties


----------



## Polaris425 (Dec 16, 2004)

^ Frankinstine mod... nice. I put my trash can lid back together like that.


----------



## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

When I cracked a spot on my rear fender I cleaned it with acetone then appoxyed it with clear, then went in behind it with some cut plastic and appoxyed it across the crack for backing. Can't see that from the outside though.


----------



## poporider2011 (Jul 27, 2011)

hp488 said:


> Drill some holes and zip ties


^ this is the way i always fix mine and it seems to hold just fine and it doesn't take long to do!


----------



## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

The upper plastics on the brute are a weird mix of plastics and don't take too well to plastic-welding. The floorboards do take plastic-welding real well. I had a 3 to 4 inch tear on the front upper fender probably in the same location as yours. I used a product called liquid cold weld only on the underside of the fender. It has lasted two years now and has been hit a few times and hung in there real good.

Here's what I did:
Cleaned the inside of the fender soap and water first. then used plastic cleaner that leaves no residue. I then roughed up the area with a rough sanding wheel (2"). I cleaned the area again with the plastic cleaner. I took a piece of sheetmetal 2 " wide by the length of the tear. I molded the metal to match the inside contour of the plastic. Then I punched a bunch of 1/4" holes in the sheetmetal. I mixed up the two-part coldweld product and spread a coat on the inside of the plastic. I then placed the piece of sheetmetal on the spread material, pushing it in slightly which pushes the glue out the holes punched in the metal. I then laid another coat of the coldweld product over the metal. You have to work kind of fast as the two part material will start to set-up. let it cure for a day and it has been good so far. Good thing is no rivets show up on the top side, all you see is the tear.

Good luck!


----------



## 08GreenBrute (Jul 13, 2009)

Only thing I've seen is zip ties but its not very clean looking


----------



## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

i did my plastic on the little 50 by drilling holes and using metal wire. i sewed it up to look like frankenstein.


----------



## MY07BRUTE (May 24, 2011)

wyo58 said:


> The upper plastics on the brute are a weird mix of plastics and don't take too well to plastic-welding. The floorboards do take plastic-welding real well. I had a 3 to 4 inch tear on the front upper fender probably in the same location as yours. I used a product called liquid cold weld only on the underside of the fender. It has lasted two years now and has been hit a few times and hung in there real good.
> 
> Here's what I did:
> Cleaned the inside of the fender soap and water first. then used plastic cleaner that leaves no residue. I then roughed up the area with a rough sanding wheel (2"). I cleaned the area again with the plastic cleaner. I took a piece of sheetmetal 2 " wide by the length of the tear. I molded the metal to match the inside contour of the plastic. Then I punched a bunch of 1/4" holes in the sheetmetal. I mixed up the two-part coldweld product and spread a coat on the inside of the plastic. I then placed the piece of sheetmetal on the spread material, pushing it in slightly which pushes the glue out the holes punched in the metal. I then laid another coat of the coldweld product over the metal. You have to work kind of fast as the two part material will start to set-up. let it cure for a day and it has been good so far. Good thing is no rivets show up on the top side, all you see is the tear.
> ...


I think this is what I am going to try first, I really don't want to drop $$ on a new shinny fender when the rest is all scratched to hell from the trails/prickers (god **** thorns!!! lol).

If I have to replace it I might just have to go team green lol

EDIT:

J.B. Weld right?


----------



## wyo58 (May 13, 2011)

MY07BRUTE said:


> I think this is what I am going to try first, I really don't want to drop $$ on a new shinny fender when the rest is all scratched to hell from the trails/prickers (god **** thorns!!! lol).
> 
> If I have to replace it I might just have to go team green lol
> 
> ...


No It's called "Cold Weld" made by permatex corp. It is like JB weld in how you mix it and appearence, however it is a little more flexable when it dries than JB weld is.


----------



## Ozzie3o5 (Jun 27, 2011)

hp488 said:


> Drill some holes and zip ties


I do the same. I put two zip ties crossing each other forming an "X" shape. Looks pretty cool IMO. Got the idea from drifting. The bumpers fall off so often its easier just to hold it together with zip ties lol


----------

