# Brute Force 750 timing chain tensioner specs?



## mattman218 (Sep 22, 2014)

Hi guys, new to this forum but I am also not an idiot when it comes to working on my 2005 brute force 750. To start I bought it for cheap with the motor out because it needed a rebuild. Put some new rings in it and good to go! Runs great, but developed a noise. I pulled the tensioners and found that front cylinder had 2 clicks left to max out, and rear cylinder had 7. I pulled the front one out to max, reinstalled and the noise is gone, so I know the chain is pretty stretched. I'm wondering if I should leave it, or if there is a spec for how far out the tensioner should be? The manual says nothing about it. Should I wait till it gets noisy again, then do the chains? I'm just trying to avoid tearing it down and replacing them if I dont have to. From what I understand it's not the easiest job to do. Any info or opinions would be great! Thanks!


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Let me understand...you set the tensioner to it's maximum length and reinstalled it? If so, you need to know that you may be placing so much pressure on the bar and chain it can brake and/or destroy the cam bearing on that side. The book tells you to set it all the way in with the spring cap off, install it, then the spring and cap so the spring extents the tensioner and sets the proper tension. If the spring won't extend the tensioner far enough by itself, its probably at it's operational limit...and at 2 clicks that sounds about right. I would recommend replacing the chains and bars asap and assemble per the book. JMO...


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## mattman218 (Sep 22, 2014)

yeah, its quit now. I dont think theres too much pressure on the chain, I just feel like the tensioner is so far out that the small tensioner spring would not fully extend it. I realize too much pessure on the chain can damage things. It only ran for less than a minute. It confirmed my though that the noise I was getting was indeed the chain. Are chains hard to do? Is there recommended things to do at the same time? like do the other chains? also do the guides need to be replace with it? Are the guided fitted into the cylinder meaning that the cylinder has to come off to replace the guides? thanks for the reply and the help!


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

mattman218 said:


> yeah, its quit now. I dont think theres too much pressure on the chain, I just feel like the tensioner is so far out that the small tensioner spring would not fully extend it. I realize too much pessure on the chain can damage things. It only ran for less than a minute. It confirmed my though that the noise I was getting was indeed the chain. Are chains hard to do? Is there recommended things to do at the same time? like do the other chains? also do the guides need to be replace with it? Are the guided fitted into the cylinder meaning that the cylinder has to come off to replace the guides? thanks for the reply and the help!


 Just to be safe, take it back out, take the cap, spring and rod out, set it to minimum, install it, the get your own small rod and hand-push the tentioner back out to the last click you can get with light-moderate pressure, then put the rod, spring and cap back on. Heck stretch the spring a little if you want. At least it won't kill anything. If that chain breaks, you can bet it won't do it when the valves are shut.

You know I have never done it yet but people do chains all the time without full tear-downs. Not sure how they get the bars in but I'll bet someone here knows...like rmax..he's done s ton of Kawie motors.


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## mattman218 (Sep 22, 2014)

I had the tensioners out and stretched the springs, I just think they are too far out. I'm going to just suck it up and do the chains. I think I'll pull it apart and get a parts list going. Inspect everything and see what else besides chains needs to be replaced. I'd rather be on the safe side of this. I know the tensioner should not be maxed out to make the chains tight, I just wasn't sure if I left it that anything bad would happen. I think the tensioners are good, just not strong enough to max out. Thanks for the help, and once I get it apart I'll post the findings.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Well..nothing like fresh chains in a v-twin anyway.


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## rmax (Nov 21, 2009)

Not a real hard job an it can be done with out messing with heads or cylinders ,remove the rocker box covers an cams an the left side cover .rotor an all .primary clutch will need to come off also worst part of it is getting the jackshaft an gear lined back correctly.a good manual will be very helpful make sure you have the rear cylinder timing marks aligned before you remove the rocked covers so you will have your starting point for reassembly


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## rmax (Nov 21, 2009)

You can do this without removing the engine also I would change all the chains while your in there I've seen the crank to jackshaft chain stretched more than the can chains in most engines I have heard fst has a heavey duty jackshaft chain they use in their custom builds


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