# 4wd/2wd been workin for 8 hours



## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Ok i know theres a million threads on here about this but ive looked through them and im still stuck, Ive been working on this bike non stop for 8 hours+ today and im going nuts here. The story is...

Im selling my brute and it wouldn't switch into 2wd, It was NOT flashing. So i went looking through the service manual and have been working on things. I narrowed it down to the wires inside the actual switch not getting a good connection. I fixed that im at .000 resistance on it closed in 2wd so its good. I tried to engage it (still not flashing) and nothing, so i drained my diff took the actuator off and found multiple problems. The block was worn heavily, and the motor was rusted luckily i had a spare actuator. I was going to replace the motor with the spare but i ended up taking both off and just putting them back in there same place as the gear on the end were slightly different. I cleaned the rusted motor, and switched the bottom pieces to the one with the good block. I got it back together tested it, broke a gear because the gear on the end of the motor was mushroomed a bit from reinstalling on 1 spline. Reinstalled new gear filed down the slightly mushroomed on hooked it up to the battery again and it worked. I put everything back together on the bike and then i got the 2wd/4wd .5 sec flash. I turned my key ON then Off and heard the actuator move fore a sec. drove it to see if it was actually working, it wasnt. after i tested to see if it would actually switch when i turn the key off the 4wd actuator no longer makes a noise. Im stuck now, I don't know what to do, My switch is working, my actuator should still be working. In the service manual the switch gets its power from the acc plug, i have full power there. 

How can I test to see if im getting power from the connector on the bike? I read its negative? Is it possible the wires in the position sensor in the actuator got messed up or something? The gears inside were spotless, only the motor housing was rusted. and i did not touch the wiring in the actuator...

Im passing 8 hours of work on a sat on this thing, id much rather be out riding...any help appreciated...


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I did the actuator orientation:

http://forum.highlifter.com/m3093669-print.aspx

It stopped flashing, I tried it it was in 2wd. put it back in 4 it went back in 4 then it started flashing again and wouldn't go back into 2 after that???

Maybe its not sending power in the opposite direction? so its not able to turn the actuator both ways only 1 way?


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

I'm on the road but in the book there should be a specific voltage @ the connection point. If that it correct your on the right track. Actuator may not be getting the readings correct. I got mad and replaced everything, not saying it was right but I have peace of mind now, controller, actuator and wire harness...


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I gave up last night and went to bed was exhausted. I think im getting power one way to be able to turn the actuator from 2wd to 4wd but not getting power the opposite way. I just woke up ill go do some more looking in an hour or so.​


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Actually, does the actuator turn both ways to change from 4wd to 2wd or does it just go in circles?


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

Not sure. I was told when I did mine that voltage from a battery would turn it finebut that did not mean it worked correctly. You know anyone with a bike you can pull parts from? Could even be the control box.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

The 2wd/4wd switch is good. I dont think its the control box the engine break actuator works fine and the actuator did work once or twice at one point, i think its a lack of power getting to the actuator idk yet.. Im still troubleshooting power and resistance from things... this things a pain.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Is it possible for the forward/reverse sensor to be causing this? When i put the bike into reverse it doesn't stay lit constantly it flashes somewhat. Ive been looking through the service manual and it says this will cause flashing? could this also block the actuator from working?? I still need to test the my actuator with a multimeter, along with my actuator control box...i hope its something as simple as a bad connection on the F/R because i never did take it apart and grease it...

Edit: NVM if that was the prob it would flash every 1 sec for the engine actuator mines .5... crap.


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

sorry i bailed unexpectedly on you the other night. little kids at home, it happens.
what i was telling you is that maybe you need to reset the orientation of the unit. here's the diagram i was telling you about.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Already did it thought i sent u a PM. I moved the actuator to 2wd and put it in It was in 2wd as it should be at start, i switched it to 4wd it worked fine and went into 4 then it started flashing again and won't go back to 2wd. so it worked for going into 4 but started flashing and wouldn't work again. Im going to test my box and actuator numbers to see if there right this weekend after a ride or 2..

The actuator continually spins in 1 direction to move the pin in the diff correct? it doesn't go backwards?

And no prob, i was ridiculously tired anyways. I hate having electrical problems and working on them even more. spent from 1:30pm to 12:30am or so working on it Saturday diagnosing things and testing it, didn't leave the garage other then driving it around the yard then right back in the garage. Got hot dogs for supper delivered to me..lol.


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

pretty sure this one moves back and forth through the operative range in the chart. 
i think the chart also agrees with the statement that you can apply 12v power to either black or red to get the output shaft in the operative range. it can go both ways and it does in normal operation.
so now we must logically try to think through why yours is only going one way. 

just to recap anything i missed, did you check the wires under the fuse box for corrosion?


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

The power to the 2wd-4wd switch comes from the cdi 6 volts i had trouble with this on my old 650i after ripping my whole wireing harness apart i found out my cdi box was bad but just the power to the 4wd bought a new one and i was back up and running. i think i only had 2.5 or 3 volts it just wasnt enough to run it rite but it would move the actuator.


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

Thats true as well. If the power can't adequately power the motor you'll get the flashing on the display.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Idk what it is, it worked when i first got it after i fixed the fuses for a while, then I just never used it or touched it until now. The fuse box should be good, I never tested the numbers but it looks alright. Im going to check that this weekend also. And that makes sense that it has to spin both ways, if it only went 1 way it would just go into it's "In operable range". So my problem should be a lack of power in the opposite direction or not able to switch it period. If it's the control box or CDI im not going to be happy though, don't wanna drop a few hundred $ i don't have on a dynatek when im trying to sell it.


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

im sure you can find another acm cheap. ive seen lots of part outs on here.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I don't have a paypal account and no credit card (16...). And where I live ATV's and parts cost even more then general Canada it's ridiculous... If it's CDI then ill prob sell my moose module and get a dynatek. if its the control box then god knows what ill do...


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Just got back from a ride and things got alot worse. My whole dash started flashing and everything on bike that was electronic was goin nuts, everything would work fine while I was completely stopped, but as soon as I started moving my lights actually dimmed, my hand and thumb warms were flashing and Dash was flashing and spinning??? Hammered her home hopin she wouldn't die on me. Any ideas???


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

Sounds like the bus conection in the harness to me.The fix for that isnt bad and its in the kawi section some where maybe how tos.


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## southernbrute750 (Jul 5, 2011)

07's shouldn't have the buss conectors. Those are mainly in 05 and have been reported in some 06's


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## wcs61 (Jun 7, 2011)

I thought they had the buss up to 08


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## bfbrian (Dec 20, 2010)

My 06 had both Buss connectors. The one at tank and the one up front under the bars, they were both bad.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

There shouldn't be any bus connectors they were taken out for the 07 models. Maybe moving drew all my power to the plugs, and caused the dimming, may have a real bad connection somewhere, idk yet something tells me im going to be working on this thing all day again today


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

Not to be a pain, but how many 8 hour days do you have in this, what is your time $ worth vs. a new wire harness. New=not broken, IE> no ghost in the machine. no more chasing your tail ( IMO.) bout $200 for a new in the box...Just saying....


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Lol im 16 with no job and really about -$400 to parents for new laptop, and trying to save to pay taxes on a renegade. I can't afford it, really lol. It's not a harness problem anyway i don't think, its a connection or ACM or CDI or something of that nature, the harness itself is in good shape, bike hasn't been in alot of water just thick skeg. And I understand where your coming from, I HATE electrical, not hard but its a pain the bleep.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

I fixed the wierd crazy flashing, just moved the main fuse wires,fuse and battery terms and it fine now. not sure how anything got in there was covered in dielectric grease but its fine now. Still got the 2wd/4wd flashing but atleast dash is working... going to do tests on things right now ill keep updated...


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## southernbrute750 (Jul 5, 2011)

wcs61 said:


> I thought they had the buss up to 08


As far as my knowlage 06 was the last of them. Filthyredneck has a 07 wiring harness for his 05 to eliminate the conectors.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

took actuator back off, diff fluid is severely milked, and the block is worn already.. plugged it back in without it in the diff and nothing.. UGG


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## southernbrute750 (Jul 5, 2011)

Honestly that could be your problem right there. 
There have been a few cases where just if the diff fluid was milked it would not allow the acuator to fully engauge.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

...With a little more investigating, i tore the cover off the wires goin to the plug, Guess what i found? a bunch of shotty cut up connections the former owner tried to splice, quite a friend the lying cheap skate. I got some work ahead of me.. ill get back when i take everything apart, clean and fix...

EDIT: WTF after farther ripping, i found ANOTHER group of every wire being spliced... theres my problem there, the wires to reverse the act aren't getting a connection for sure.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

Waddaman said:


> ...With a little more investigating, i tore the cover off the wires goin to the plug, Guess what i found? a bunch of shotty cut up connections the former owner tried to splice, quite a friend the lying cheap skate. I got some work ahead of me.. ill get back when i take everything apart, clean and fix...
> 
> EDIT: WTF after farther ripping, i found ANOTHER group of every wire being spliced... theres my problem there, the wires to reverse the act aren't getting a connection for sure.


Ain't that the way it usualy is...problems from someone else messing with it. And people blame the Brute for this stuff...


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

does the actuator only turn if u hit the switch when the is bike running? or moving?


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## Roboquad (Sep 8, 2009)

Waddaman said:


> Lol im 16 with no job and really about -$400 to parents for new laptop, and trying to save to pay taxes on a renegade. I can't afford it, really lol. It's not a harness problem anyway i don't think, its a connection or ACM or CDI or something of that nature, the harness itself is in good shape, bike hasn't been in alot of water just thick skeg. And I understand where your coming from, I HATE electrical, not hard but its a pain the bleep.


Hate to be (THAT GUY) that said I told you so ...but.....:shitfanrt0:


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

Lol it's not part of the harness, its the actuator side. I fixed all the connections, im changing the seal in the diff now, took the ring out that the actuator moves, and its all galled up where the actuator touches and thats what was wearin em down, trying to get it off now but its real strong steel, gonna put a bolt thru it, stick the bolt in a drill press and take a grinder to it while its spinning, I tried the coarsest file i could get and it didn't take a shaving off.


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## Waddaman (Oct 3, 2010)

GOT IT!!!:goodnews: Thanks guys!


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## vitalvelocity (Nov 30, 2011)

Im having a similar issue. I did have murky fluid in the diff but even with the actuator removed it is not functioning. If i hook it to the battery directly it spins freely. It was working before; i did change the belt but other than that nothing else.


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