# 4wd flashing issue



## mmelton005 (Oct 12, 2011)

I have already searched vigorously through the threads to find an answer with no luck. I installed a dark green secondary clutch spring and ever since my 4wd to 2wd lights have been flashing. Before I tore it down to install the spring everything was working flawlessly. Here is a video (2008 Brute 650i)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x47wY32PkmA&feature=youtu.be

and the belt kebc actuator on a 12v source

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIy-1w7c64M&feature=youtu.be


So Far I have checked (with help from Steve aka phreebsd)

4wd switch on the handle bars, they are geting 4.11 volts
Speed sensor pigtail getting 12 volts on one pin and 3 volts on another pin
Done the KEBC reset and the belt reset multiple times
KEBC actuator is free turning with out any foreign sounds
Front diff 4wd actuator is free spinning without any issues
The fuse block is clean with all new fresh fuses
Everything has a clean connection

Just today as I was fixing to throw in the towel drop it by the dealership and send the final pm "Thank you for your help phreebsd", It hit me. I had removed the front 4wd actuator to bench test it (which it tested good) and upon re-installing the front diff actuator I had to take my finger and put it inside the hole where it "actuator pin" goes and move it forward toward the front of the brute. Is there a certain protocol to removing and re-installing the front actuator? phreebsd said that my flash pattern is saying that's where the problem lies, the front diff actuator. Any help would be Generously appreciated as I am compleltely stumped and have been for a week now.




UPDATE 05/19/12 Problem part ended up being the Actuator Control Unit (PN: 21175-0086)


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

i told him to post a thread as many of you are more familiar with the workings of the collar and the groove it sits in.


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## rmax (Nov 21, 2009)

not aware of any certian position for the collar to be in ,just be certian its not in a bind , sounds like a connection problem to me , did you clean an grease the connectors when you installed after bench check


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

I had an 06 650I and the cdi went bad it wasn't putting six volts to the 2x4 4x4 switch so check and see if you got six volts to the switch and then down at the actuator(same wire). The wireing and testing is all in the manual on here.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk


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## mmelton005 (Oct 12, 2011)

rmax said:


> not aware of any certian position for the collar to be in ,just be certian its not in a bind , sounds like a connection problem to me , did you clean an grease the connectors when you installed after bench check


I double checked the front diff actuator tonight, there is literally only one position the pin can go. No I haven't cleaned my connectors and come to think of it I did notice they had some old looking grease in the plugs. I'll try that and re-grease




brutemike said:


> I had an 06 650I and the cdi went bad it wasn't putting six volts to the 2x4 4x4 switch so check and see if you got six volts to the switch and then down at the actuator(same wire). The wireing and testing is all in the manual on here.
> 
> Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk



Can the cdi just go bad in an instant with no warnings? I've disassembled the switch on the handlebars and it is only getting 4.11 volts not 6.


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## brutemike (Mar 23, 2010)

Mine did and it was the only thing wrong with the Cdi the rest worked just fine.I actually cut my whole wiring harness open and traced all the wire and checked them to now that was a pita.Did you check the manual to see if thats rite 6 volts but im pretty sure thats what it is and if you need me to look for it just let me know I will get it for you I got it downloaded.A quick to check and see if that is it barrow a friends just to see before you buy one.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk


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## kevinryan7 (Jan 31, 2012)

What position was it in before you removed it, 2wd or 4wd? Whatever position it was in, hook a power source to actuator on a bench and put it all the way back to that position.....i.e. all the way to the right for 2wd, all the way to left for 4wd. Make sure the selector switch is in that position as well. Put the actuator back in, turn on the key and see if it reads correctly. If not, pull the 30 amp main fuse, put it back in and turn the key to on. If all seems well, start it up, drive it around and see if it's good going in and out of 4wd. I know it seems strange but I did that to mine a long time ago before i did away with the actuators and it worked. Also, while you have the actuator off, take it apart and clean it......make sure the magnetic cover goes back together the same way it came apart! (very important)


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## kevinryan7 (Jan 31, 2012)

If your actuator was in one position with power to it and then you took it off, put it to another position, reinstalled and turned the key to put power to it.......all it did was confuse your bike (not sure if that's the best way to put it)


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## mmelton005 (Oct 12, 2011)

kevinryan7 said:


> What position was it in before you removed it, 2wd or 4wd? Whatever position it was in, hook a power source to actuator on a bench and put it all the way back to that position.....i.e. all the way to the right for 2wd, all the way to left for 4wd. Make sure the selector switch is in that position as well. Put the actuator back in, turn on the key and see if it reads correctly. If not, pull the 30 amp main fuse, put it back in and turn the key to on. If all seems well, start it up, drive it around and see if it's good going in and out of 4wd. I know it seems strange but I did that to mine a long time ago before i did away with the actuators and it worked. Also, while you have the actuator off, take it apart and clean it......make sure the magnetic cover goes back together the same way it came apart! (very important)
> If your actuator was in one position with power to it and then you took it off, put it to another position, reinstalled and turned the key to put power to it.......all it did was confuse your bike (not sure if that's the best way to put it)


It was in 2wd when I removed it, Now it's stuck in 4wd i know for a fact. Your theory makes perfect sense. To think that the actuator would "re postion" it's self after you plug it up to the bike and then key on? I'll give that a try and if it works your a life saver. I know why you done away with these actuators!! I think I'm just going to leave my actuators together, I can see me screwing them up when they are working perfectly fine. Keep your fingers crossed! Thank you so much for your suggestion. I'll keep you posted for sure.


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## kevinryan7 (Jan 31, 2012)

Not a problem at all brother, hope it works out......if not, we'll get it figured out somehow.


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## phreebsd (Dec 16, 2004)

this makes sense too. 

lets get it worked out this way. mmelton05, can you lift the bike off the ground so that all tired are free to rotate?
That way u can take the 4x4 actuator off (leave it plugged up) and flip the switch to observe its action. you may have to rotate the front wheels by hand a little for it to move. not sure. I think flipping it back and forth 2x4 to 4x4 (make sure the actuator transitions to each position, 2x4 then 4x4, then back) a couple times and it should wise up maybe. 
what ya think kevinryan7?


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## mmelton005 (Oct 12, 2011)

phreebsd said:


> this makes sense too.
> 
> lets get it worked out this way. mmelton05, can you lift the bike off the ground so that all tired are free to rotate?
> That way u can take the 4x4 actuator off (leave it plugged up) and flip the switch to observe its action. you may have to rotate the front wheels by hand a little for it to move. not sure. I think flipping it back and forth 2x4 to 4x4 (make sure the actuator transitions to each position, 2x4 then 4x4, then back) a couple times and it should wise up maybe.
> what ya think kevinryan7?



Yes I can get all 4 off of the ground..... gotta fork lift 


I'll try that too.. I'll know as soon as I reset the belt if it's going to work maybe those darn lights will stop flashing. I'll give all this a try tonight when I get off work!


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## kevinryan7 (Jan 31, 2012)

Phreebsd, I think that would work just fine....just have to make sure that the button selector and the position of the actuator are on the same page and in sync


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## mmelton005 (Oct 12, 2011)

kevinryan7 said:


> What position was it in before you removed it, 2wd or 4wd? Whatever position it was in, hook a power source to actuator on a bench and put it all the way back to that position.....i.e. all the way to the right for 2wd, all the way to left for 4wd. Make sure the selector switch is in that position as well. Put the actuator back in, turn on the key and see if it reads correctly. If not, pull the 30 amp main fuse, put it back in and turn the key to on. If all seems well, start it up, drive it around and see if it's good going in and out of 4wd. I know it seems strange but I did that to mine a long time ago before i did away with the actuators and it worked. Also, while you have the actuator off, take it apart and clean it......make sure the magnetic cover goes back together the same way it came apart! (very important)


Your method made my belt actuator start making the normal key off sounds like always and made the light stay on 2wd or 4wd (whichever position I had it in) But sadly the lights STILL flashed after the belt reset..... 





phreebsd said:


> this makes sense too.
> 
> lets get it worked out this way. mmelton05, can you lift the bike off the ground so that all tired are free to rotate?
> That way u can take the 4x4 actuator off (leave it plugged up) and flip the switch to observe its action. you may have to rotate the front wheels by hand a little for it to move. not sure. I think flipping it back and forth 2x4 to 4x4 (make sure the actuator transitions to each position, 2x4 then 4x4, then back) a couple times and it should wise up maybe.
> what ya think kevinryan7?



I think I might have found my culprit. I think I might have a bad front diff actuator. I plugged up the actuator to the brute and kept the actuator in my hand. His the switch from 2wd to 4wd and nothing. I won't get flashing lights until the wheels move. I'm getting power to my front diff actuator and a good connection. Is it possible the front diff actuator can be bad even thought, the plug has 12 volts on it and it works fine on a bench test with 12 volts hooks up directly to it?:34:


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## kevinryan7 (Jan 31, 2012)

Hmmm, do you have a friend or someone close to you with a Kawi BF or prairie? I would see if they'd be willing to try out your actuator on their bike and visa versa. If your actuator works on his bike and his doesn't work on yours....then you either have a short or a bad box under the seat. If his works on yours and yours doesn't on his.....then your actuator is probably bad. All fuses under the seat are intact and good? Where do you live at?


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## DaveMK1 (Nov 8, 2009)

I had a similar issue with my wifes bike after she smoked the front diff actuator key. I got pissed off after 4 hours of trouble shooting and took my cdi off and put it on hers. It worked! then I put hers back on and it was fine. Weird I know but it worked.


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## kevinryan7 (Jan 31, 2012)

Sometimes swapping known good parts is the only way to trouble shoot when all other methods have failed........your situation with swapping the cdi boxes and everything worked fine after......that's just weird man, awesome though, bout as cheap as you can fix something, good and free!!!!


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## mmelton005 (Oct 12, 2011)

kevinryan7 said:


> Hmmm, do you have a friend or someone close to you with a Kawi BF or prairie? I would see if they'd be willing to try out your actuator on their bike and visa versa. If your actuator works on his bike and his doesn't work on yours....then you either have a short or a bad box under the seat. If his works on yours and yours doesn't on his.....then your actuator is probably bad. All fuses under the seat are intact and good? Where do you live at?


Yes I do. He has an 06 750. I don't see why he wouldn't mind me plugging up my actuator to his bike and seeing if it would work. The thing that gets me is that before I took that **** cover off everything worked great, no problems. I doubt there is a short I looked and traces any places I could have pinched a wire. Yes all the fuses are excellent. Very clean and tight fit with all new fuses. Western KY




DaveMK1 said:


> I had a similar issue with my wifes bike after she smoked the front diff actuator key. I got pissed off after 4 hours of trouble shooting and took my cdi off and put it on hers. It worked! then I put hers back on and it was fine. Weird I know but it worked.


What exactly is the cdi? The little box below the tail light? Did you test her actuator out side the bike? Ie; leave it plugged up to her brute and hit the switch and see if it spun in your hand?


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## DaveMK1 (Nov 8, 2009)

The cdi is the first black controller under the seat from the battery. It has 3 connecters on it. And yes I checked her actuator and it was fine

Sent from my droid when I should be working. MIMB RULES!


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## mmelton005 (Oct 12, 2011)

DaveMK1 said:


> The cdi is the first black controller under the seat from the battery. It has 3 connecters on it. And yes I checked her actuator and it was fine
> 
> Sent from my droid when I should be working. MIMB RULES!


I'm assuming it can just go bad without any warning?


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## kevinryan7 (Jan 31, 2012)

Yep, one minute it's fine and running great.....turn it off and restart and you have flashing lights. Don't know what causes the problem, could be a multitude of things....water, dirt, mud, bad ground, old box, old actuator, bad wiring, leap year, leprechauns, Bigfoot, etc.....these things are just real finicky sometimes and require cleaning and upkeep.


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

The flashes are a code,it depends on the flashes,look in manual it tells you how to read the flashes on the dash to tell you the issue.


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