# 02 Kodiak 400 CVT help...



## gpinjason

OK, I've had the bike for about 2 years now, never done anything to it except change oil, brakes, air filter, and snorkel... I needed to re-route the CVT intake snorkel away from the exhaust, so I pulled the plastics off... I figured while I had it all off, I would inspect the clutches and belt, since you have to pull off the plastics and right floorboard just to get the CVT cover off... So I get it off, and pull the clutches, and this is what I found, and I'm wondering if it's normal, or if I need to fix anything...

1. the primary clutch has a LOT of grease in it... I understand that the rollers, and the "slider" (can't remember the technical term) need to be lubricated, but this thing has LOTS of grease.. LOL... even with the sheave cover screwed on, with the o-ring in place, grease still managed to sling out inside the CVT cover (pics below) 

SO, my question is HOW MUCH grease is supposed to be in there? The service manual isn't clear on how much belongs in there... 

2. BOTH sheaves on the primary have a slight "step" in them close to the bottom of the angle... it's in a weird location though, you would think the area that the "raised" part is, would actually be worn lower, since it's where the belt rides at lower speeds... I've posted pics, you can barely see what I'm talking about....

So, is this normal? do the sheaves need to be replaced, or can they be machined, and then shimmed to make up the difference? 

3. I plan on buying a secondary spring while I have it apart, and would like to do everything I can for the clutches while I have it apart... I know there is a 
"shim mod" but not sure exactly what to shim... and does anyone know what size rollers I would need to put in the primary to get that low end? isn't it LIGHTER rollers to keep it in LOW longer? I know people with Grizzlies use Kodiak rollers in the primary, but what do you use in the Kodiak?? Top end is not an issue.....it's a 400 Kodiak.... LOL 

OK here are the pics...
Grease

























Sheaves


----------



## gpinjason

One more question, how do you know what the deflection should be on the belt? And how do you adjust it? I'm used to the Brute clutches...


----------



## bruterider27

On my king they said no grease I think Idk tho that's a lot of grease


----------



## duramaxlover

I'm not sure about how much grease but for getting low end and not losing top end I'd suggest the /// airdam mod it isnsuppose to me a great mod or a mad mike mod which is what use to be the coop45 mod


----------



## bamajeepjunkie

This is for yamaha models but most of this will help with Suzuki and artic cat models as well. If anyone has additional info for these models or kawi, popo, or canam info post it here please. 
CVT BASICS 

1) The shim mod (Originally called the Coop45 Mod) will give you basically a gear reduction due to making the belt ride lower in the primary sheave & will make the belt ride higher on the secondary sheave. 
The shim will give you more torque multiplication. 
Shimming lowers your max speed a avg. 2mm shim 5mph give or take 1mm shim maybe 2-3 mph


2) Rollers 
Will change the timing/shift out or how soon your atv will change gears per say. 


a) Lighter rollers will stay in 1st gear longer & in which reduces bogging BUT 
(its kind of like having a drag car that does excessive wheel stands--if the weight transfer from the wheel stand is not needed, then your just losing ET by forcing the car into the air instead of traveling forward.) 
So if your not bogging than you don’t need the lighter rollers. 
Also the lighter rollers will make you engine turn more RPMs while path riding because the lighter rollers wont let the belt shift into 2nd gear or 3rd per say. 
b) Heavier rollers will get you into your mid range curve sooner. Lets say that Heavier rollers will shift out of 1st gear sooner & gets you into 2nd sooner. (You get wheel speed faster to clean your tires unless your bogging then the rollers are to heavy) 

3) Stiffer internal clutch springs allows a higher rpm engagement before the bike moves in which its side effect is shorted internal clutch life & more contamination of the oil. 
(So internal springs depends on riders preference) 

Basic Notes 
PS after adding shims 
(Bolt the cage on & run the motor before putting the clutch housing cover on so the belt will set in place & not rub the housing cover at start up.) 







Things that alter the belt travel 
Primary & secondary overall 

1) Roller/weight diameter 
(Larger pushes belt out farther on primary) 
(May shorten inner belt travel on primary so the inner roller travel path may need to be lengthened/machined) 

2) Machining the roller/weight path Mod. (Outer travel area) 
(Extends the area the rollers travel to allow the faceplate to be pushed farther in which pushes the belt out farther in which increases top speed) 

3) Shimming 
(Belt rides lower in the primary in which increases gear multiplication/low end pull) 
(Reduces the angle on the face plate, in which reduces the push on the belt to the outer rim of the primary. Reduced top end speed) 

4) Machining farther down into the primary Mod. (Depth Cut) 
(Belt rides lower into the primary but with no change to the faceplate angle in which increases the low-end gear multiplication) 
(While machining to get the depth cut into the sheave, the angle is changed DUE to cutting for the depth) 

5) Faceplate angle Mod 
(Pushes the belt farther out on the primary) 
(Done to increase wheel speed) 
(Also done to counteract the angle loss when using the shim Mod) 
(Smaller cc atvs may only notice its effect in a low range gear due to parasitic loss in the drive train or any other power robbing sources) 

6) Machining farther down into the secondary Mod. (Depth Cut) 
(While machining to get the depth cut into the sheave, the angle is changed DUE to cutting for the depth) 

(This Mod pushes the belt farther down into the secondary in which increases speed BUT this area is run through before the face plate tops out the top of the primary) 
(Maybe this mod will help counteract the shim mod issue of reducing the faceplate angle & regaining the extra push the faceplate needs to push the belt out on the primary) 


Things that alter belt shifting speed. 

1) Centrifugal force. (Roller weights) 
Heavier rollers shift faster. 
Lighter rollers shift slower. 

2) Secondary spring pressure. 
More, equals slower up shifting & faster down shifting. 
(Less is prone to a slipping belt). 

3) Sheave angles. (NOT depth angles) 
(But controlled by spring pressure) 
4) Face plate angle length. 
a) Steeper equals faster 
b) Less equals slower 

5) Roller path length. 
a) Shorter equals faster 
b) Longer equals slower 

6) Sheave surface texture 
a) Ruff in which equals more friction. 
Belt ware may increase due to better back shifting & tracking of the belt & the heat created due to friction. 

b) Smooth in which equals less friction. 
Belt ware may be reduced due to less back shifting & tracking & less heat generation. 
(Spring pressure maybe more important here but of course spring pressure increases friction also) 


Things that reduce horsepower in the clutch system 
1) Friction. 

Things that induce horsepower in the clutch system 
1) Lighter parts 
(Weight reducing Mod (of the Sheaves) 
(This increases engine acceleration due to less parasitic loss) 
(But at this extent are we really noticing it???) 




The belt starts at the base of the primary in which is the low-end power area. 
Things that allows the belt to lower more into the primary 
1) shimming. 
2) Machining the primary depth. 
__________________________________________________ _______________________________________ 

PARTS 

Primary Rollers 
The 350s has 6 rollers total 
The 400 & larger atvs has 8 rollers total 

6 roller housing 
6ea x 12 = 72 total 
3ea x 12 + 3ea x 14 = 78 total 
3ea x 12 + 3ea x 16 = 84 total 

6ea x 14 = 84 total 
3ea x 12 + 3ea x 18 = 90 total 
3ea x 14 + 3ea x 16 = 90 total 
3ea x 12 + 3ea x 20 = 96 total 
3ea x 14 + 3ea x 18 = 96 total 

6ea x 16 = 96 total (stock 350) 
3ea x 14 + 3ea x 20 = 102 total 
3ea x 16 + 3ea x 18 = 102 total 
3ea x 16 + 3ea x 20 = 108 total 

6ea x 18 = 108 total 
3ea x 18 + 3ea x 20 = 114 total 

8 roller housing 
8ea x 12 =96 total 
4ea x 12 + 4ea x 14 = 104 total 
4ea x 12 + 4ea x 16 = 112 total 

8ea x 14 = 112 total (stock 400 & 450) 
4ea x 12 + 4ea x 18 = 120 total 
4ea x 14 + 4ea x 16 = 120 total 
4ea x 14 + 4ea x 18 = 128 total 
4ea x 12 + 4ea x 20 = 128 total 

8ea x 16 = 128 total (stock 550 & 600) 
4ea x 14 + 4ea x 20 = 136 total 
4ea x 16 + 4ea x 18 = 136 total 

8ea x 18 = 144 total (stock 660) 
4ea 16 + 4ea x 20 = 144 total 
4ea 18 + 4ea x 20 = 152 total 

8ea x 20 = 160 total (stock 700) 


Stock 07 350, 09 550 & 01 600 has 14-gram rollers, with cover =16 grams. 
Yamaha roller part# 4WV-17632-00-00 

Stock 07 400 & 450 has 12-gram rollers, with cover =14 grams. 
Yamaha roller part# 5GH-17632-00-00 

Stock 07 660 has 16-gram rollers, with cover=18 grams. 
Yamaha roller part# 5KM-17632-00-00 

Stock 07 700 has 18-gram rollers, with cover=20 grams. 
Yamaha roller part# 3B4-17632-00-00 

SHIMS 
Yamaha Part # 90201-225A4-00 washer plate, Thickness = 1.0mm 
Yamaha Part # 90201-222FO-00 washer plate, Thickness = .5mm 

Other Parts 
I looked over the parts lists on Yamaha's parts lists & out of the 350, 400,450 600,660, 700, 
the 400 & 450 have the same clutch assembly part #s, 
the only thing different between the 550 & 700 clutch assembly’s is the roller weights. 
__________________________________________________ ______________________ 


350-450 Notes 
When shimming the 350 2mm you will have to leave off the retaining nut washer on the primary sheave to get enough threads for a full nut. 
Also the 350 has more belt housing to secondary sheave clearance on the 350 than the 450. 

When shimming the 450 2mm, the belt will rub holes into the belt cover. 
When the cover is mounted, those holes are on the bottom corner area. 
I don't recommended more than 1.5mm on the 450.


----------



## bamajeepjunkie

You could get rid of that grease by using utvcrap's rhino 450/660 greaseless sliders and roller weights. Oh yeah in reality a small amount of grease on each roller should do for the oem rollers, that does look like to much grease. I ran mine for awhile without grease with no real noticable damage, it was just noisey.


----------



## bamajeepjunkie




----------



## gpinjason

thanks for all the info.. I'm on a time crunch, so I'm just going back together without clutch mods this time.. I got the Yamaha Ultramatic grease yesterday, and I'm gonna just put "enough" to keep the rollers and stuff lubed up... the ultramatic grease is like tan colored and the old stuff was black... is that normal or was the old grease wrong or that contaminated???


----------



## bamajeepjunkie

The stuff I have is a few years old, so they may be using something different now. What I have is called grizzley grease and is dark close to black graphite.


----------



## gpinjason

Yeah, that's what my manual said to use.. but the dealer said they changed it to Ultramatic Grease... and it's a tan color... it must have been the graphite black Grizzly grease in there before... I don't think the CVT has ever been taken apart... I bought this bike 2 years ago, bone stock, with bald stock tires and faded plastics... don't think much was done to it other than ride and maybe change oil... I think it was owned by an old man that used it around his farm...


----------



## bamajeepjunkie

The best mod on the auto kodiaks 400 or 450 is cvt work. Lighter roller weights or drilling the stock ones out, better secondary spring, and shimming/machining the primary.


----------



## gpinjason

yeah I plan to do the shim and secondary spring... maybe the orange... not sure I need the white with only 27's... it doesn't have any trouble turning them in low, but high is a turd now... 

thought about drilling the rollers too, but don't have any way to weigh them, so I don't wanna get them out of balance, and I wanna know how much I'm taking off..


----------



## bamajeepjunkie

That sounds about right. IMO

You might buy a cheap postage scale or borrow one to weigh the rollers.


----------

