# Stripped Starter Gear? Nope!!!!



## Sallzy (Nov 25, 2012)

2005 brute force, recent 840cc rebuild with H/C pistons and a set of FST stage 1 cams. It ran great all though hunting season. Fast forward to a couple weeks ago. As I Tried starting it I got the typical metallic clank as the motor kicked backwards. Which of course I thought, " uh oh! Just stripped some starter teeth!" And sure enough After that, the starter would engage the motor, start spinning it over and zing!!!! Starter spins, motor doesn't. Hit the start button, same thing. Decided before I screw it up any more than it is I'll order a new 2012 starter gear ( which I should have done when I rebuilt the motor) and replace it. Finally got a chance to rip into it and to my surprise there's absolutely no wear or broken teeth on the starter gear, gear reducer, or starter. The one way clutch appears to be working as it should. This is where I need someone's help. I am totally lost on what it could be. Why would the starter kick out like that but show no issues what so ever. The battery is brand new and fully charged. Has anyone else ever had this happen? I was sure the starter gear was stripped. Should I replace the one way clutch just in case. HELP!!!!!!!


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## chevzr2 (Nov 25, 2009)

haaa, i know, i had this happen to me too when i built up a 840/801 brute for my g/f last summer, its that little key/keyway on the same shaft as the starter gear is on, pull off the big gear and check it out!

---------- Post added at 10:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------

its a buck-fifty for a new one, number 510 in the generator section, Kawasaki ATV Parts 2005 KVF750-A1 Brute Force 750 4x4i GENERATOR Diagram


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## Sallzy (Nov 25, 2012)

I'll check it out. I have the rotor off and after looking at everything else I forgot to check the little woodruff key. It'd be nice if it was that easy.


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## Brute 840 (Feb 9, 2012)

if that is it the fly wheel is done and hope the crank didn't wear bad,because the key doesn't hold the wheel in place it aligns it and the taper holds it in place same as the clutch,I have all the parts here in that side cover so if need something let me know


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## Codeman350ss (Oct 26, 2012)

my one way bearing went out on me and the starter would spin over and not catch the flywheel. I took it apart thinking that the teeth were stripped. However they were fine. I tried to spin the flywheel backwards and it acted like the one way was good, but when I bumped the starter with the cover off I realized the bearing was bad. Put a new bearing in it and haven't had a problem since.


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## Sallzy (Nov 25, 2012)

Codeman,
That's exactly what mines doing. I checked the key and it's fine. No issues with the rotor or crank. Did you replace just the inner part of the one way clutch or the outer race to? It looks like you have to order it separately.


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## Sallzy (Nov 25, 2012)

This thing really has me baffled. One way Bearing assembly looks fine. No wear on the outer race. Stator didn't slip, no stripped gears. What in the hell else could it be???? The only thing I can think of is there must be some wear in the one way clutch and it's slipping. I really thought I would see some stripped teeth when I pulled it apart.


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## Codeman350ss (Oct 26, 2012)

yea mine looked fine too. It even caught grip when I did it by hand.


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## chevzr2 (Nov 25, 2009)

I sheared 3 off on the 840 brute till I realized I had the wrong washer in there and it had a space when it was torqued up, that was on a 650 carb bottom going into a 750 fuelie chassis, the large washer is different!


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## Sallzy (Nov 25, 2012)

chevzr2 said:


> I sheared 3 off on the 840 brute till I realized I had the wrong washer in there and it had a space when it was torqued up, that was on a 650 carb bottom going into a 750 fuelie chassis, the large washer is different!


How the heck did you figure that out? The crappy part about this set up is you have to have the side cover on to tighten the center bolt so there no way to see what's going on when it's in place.


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## Isenburg765 (Feb 28, 2014)

by any chance when you guys built your 840's did you have any probs getting the timing right?


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## Sallzy (Nov 25, 2012)

I didn't. Mine is spot on but I also spent a shitload of time researching it. There's a factory video on YouTube that shows you exactly how to do it and the process you need to use to make sure it's timed correctly. Do a search for brute force timing and it should come up. Once you watch it you'll understand what needs to be done.


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## chevzr2 (Nov 25, 2009)

so what ended up being your issue? lets end the story, lol


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## Sallzy (Nov 25, 2012)

chevzr2 said:


> so what ended up being your issue? lets end the story, lol


Not sure what the end of the story is yet. I replaced the inner one way clutch but not the outer race. When I put it back together she fired up so you'd think it's fixed with the root cause being a worn inner one way clutch but, when it originally started slipping it was -10 and I hadn't started the wheeler in a month or so and she was really cold. That with the high compression pistons and 15w40 oil might have been just too much for that old one way clutch to catch. I won't know for sure until next winter when it get really cold again. For now though, she's starting like she's supposed to so I guess you Could call it fixed. I tried pulling it over by hand but this thing has a **** ton of compression and I almost pulled my shoulder out of its socket. Won't be doing that again anytime soon. I did install the newer thicker sprocket while I had it apart. This was a hard one to diagnose.


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## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

mine did the same thing this winter haven't fixed it yet cranks over fine now. it was like -20 below zero and I'm running 20W50.


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## Sallzy (Nov 25, 2012)

FABMAN said:


> mine did the same thing this winter haven't fixed it yet cranks over fine now. it was like -20 below zero and I'm running 20W50.


I'm guessing with it that cold and running thick oil, the one way clutch just doesn't have the sack to hold when she's under that much touque. Next year I'll make sure to fire up my heater before trying to start it.


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## FABMAN (Dec 18, 2008)

yeah that's what I'm thinking. I'm changing my one way anyway. Don't want it to free wheel when I'm out on the trail trying to start it. I've tried using the pull rope on this 840 and I tell ya that is one hard pull. I thought for sure I was going to break the rope or pull a muscle lol


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