# What am I doing wrong????



## Swamp Star (Feb 20, 2010)

Well I have adjusted the valves in my Cat 5 times now and I cant get them to stop rattling. I have done it to spec everytime but no change. At first they were to tight and now there to loose. I did read on a AC fourm that it has to be on the comp. stroke. Is there any truth to that?

My Cat has a 650 Kawi motor in it same as a 650 Praire.


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## Rack High (Feb 23, 2010)

If I'm not mistaken, you have to be at the end of the compression stroke to adjust them. Anyone else know different?


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## BleednGreen68 (Apr 19, 2010)

Well are you going through the proper adjustment procedure? I always just take the site plug out of the generator cover and go by the timing marks in there. There is "F" and an "R" in the hole. F is for Front and R is for Rear. Now you can be 180degrees off. I always have the valve access covers off when doing this so i can actually see all the valves movin so I know when Im at TDC on the front or rear. And once I do the adjustment I go back through the TDC on the front and rear and use the feeler gauges again and check the clearance to make sure. Yer rattling could also be yer chains are bad too. Yer valve clearance would have to be off by a lot to make a rattling sound. Depending on how many hrs or if the engine oil was changed at the proper intervals it could be yer chains. Especially if yer goin through the procedures right. If yer careful you can also loosen yer cam chain tensioners on the heads a lil and back them off enough to hear it click one position since they are self ratcheting tensioners and then tighten back up. Sometimes the tensioners dont have enough "Play" to click to the next notch so you have to help it a lil to tighten the chain up. If that dont help it could be the secondary cam chain that goes between the crank and the auxillary shaft that runs both yer front and rear chains.


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## Swamp Star (Feb 20, 2010)

thanks guys. the cam chains sound a little more than I wanna play with. They never made a sound until I adjusted them to the factory specs and I was using the plug to sight F & R TDC. I think I may not be gettin them tight enough. Whatever is causing it im about to take it to Randy at BFR (he did a KILLER job on my Brute) and see what he says, although I aint got the dough to make her faster right now.:thinking::thinking::thinking:


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## Swamp Star (Feb 20, 2010)

Just gotta add this little tid bit of info, I could start it with the rope no problem before doing the valves and now it will snatch your arms outta socket tryin to pull it. Also its black smoking now and before it was running lean with a full 2" snork, and I had to choke it down.


Everything is stock no mods with 700 miles on it. Oil changed every 3rd big ride(weekend ride).


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## drtj (May 3, 2009)

I think your supposed to do the rear one first. BFR done mine when he rejetted mine haven't had a problem. He deff knows his stuff!!


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## BleednGreen68 (Apr 19, 2010)

sounds like the timing is off to me then if its rippin the rope out of yer hands. Could have jumped a tooth if yer cam chains are gettin loose.


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## Swamp Star (Feb 20, 2010)

^^Dont be talkin that evil^^ It ran fine before and it still runs fine its just rattling and black smoking now and Im stumped.


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## drtj (May 3, 2009)

If u have Randy's # I'd call him. I'm gonna vote valves.


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## Swamp Star (Feb 20, 2010)

thats what im thinkin. he probly gets mad i call him so much but i have sent him 3 motor jobs within the last 3 months. i talked with him the other day about doing it for me when i take my neighbors v2 down for the 1st 25hr service he just built the motor in.


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