# 06 Brute start button wiring



## jmc157 (Aug 29, 2014)

I can't get my Brute to start with the button. I have to jump the solenoid. I can't find an accurate 2006 model diagram. Im wanting to run a wire directly from the switch to the solenoid to bypass wherever I'm losing power. Can anyone tell me the wire color that gets power when the button is pressed?


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

jmc157 said:


> I can't get my Brute to start with the button. I have to jump the solenoid. I can't find an accurate 2006 model diagram. Im wanting to run a wire directly from the switch to the solenoid to bypass wherever I'm losing power. Can anyone tell me the wire color that gets power when the button is pressed?


I'll post the diagram in a while but usually the problem is that one of your brake interlocks is bad. Have you tried in and out of neutral and with either the left brake lever pulled or the foot brake depressed?

The interlocks are on either side of the vehicle-down sensor under the seat at the rear. You can try jumpering the connectors but try tapping them first.

---------- Post added at 02:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:05 PM ----------

Ok, here you go.


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## jmc157 (Aug 29, 2014)

Thanks! I have tried both brake levers and pedal but that doesn't seem to work. This problem started after fixing another wiring problem. While at it I fixed the 3 buss connectors and it would not spin over after that. I have checked every wire at all the locations several times but no luck.


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## wjpelka (May 23, 2010)

*You might try this...*

I have seen the connector that is used for resetting the belt light be the problem. The connector is not making GOOD contact. It is connector #8 in the schematic. You might need to do the belt light reset procedure. Just a fix for a problem I've seen twice before. It feeds power from the start switch to the starter relay #14.

Hope this helps...Good Luck.


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## jmc157 (Aug 29, 2014)

I will try that first on my next day off. Thanks.


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## jmc157 (Aug 29, 2014)

Belt reset didn't work. I will check the black wire coming from the switch for power. If nothing then guess I am going to make my own switch.

---------- Post added at 05:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:07 PM ----------

I have power coming from the black wire out of the switch. Where is the starter neutral relay?


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## wjpelka (May 23, 2010)

*It's Here...*

Under the seat, at the rear of the "Tray", there are 3 relays. The Right relay is the Starter Circuit Relay (Neutral)(#14). The center is the Vehicle-Down Sensor. The Left side relay is Starter Circuit Relay (Brake)(#7). The left and right relays are the same and can be swapped.


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## NMKawierider (Apr 11, 2009)

jmc157 said:


> Belt reset didn't work. I will check the black wire coming from the switch for power. If nothing then guess I am going to make my own switch.
> 
> ---------- Post added at 05:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:07 PM ----------
> 
> I have power coming from the black wire out of the switch. Where is the starter neutral relay?


Yes but that has nothing to do with it. That belt switch just completes a circuit for the warning system. You can rig a jumper between the terminals in the incoming connector to bypass the switch or just wire the two together. If it still won't reset, and you are following the procedure correctly, there is another connector corroded or a problem somewhere else. You did make sure the switch was in the ON position...right?


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## jmc157 (Aug 29, 2014)

power is getting To the neutral really, but its only like 1.5 volts. I checked coming out of the switch and it was only around 3 volts. Battery shows 12.2 volts.


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## wjpelka (May 23, 2010)

*I need a little more info...*

Your reading are low. Please look at the schematic and indicate where you are taking the readings at and the wire colors. This will help find the problem. 

I suggested the belt reset because the BROWN wire near the #8 feeds the coil on #14. If #15 is closed (IN NEUTRAL) then the ground is made and the Starter Circuit Relay (Neutral) will pick up.

If you can pull the connector that the on/off/start button ties into, take an ohm reading on the BLACK and BROWN wires. Use the lowest scale and you are looking for ZERO Resistance on those contacts. Push the green button and have the switch in the on position. 

I wish I was there to help. I KNOW we can get this...

You said power is getting to the neutral relay. You said it was 1.5 V. Which color wire was this? (Brown, light green, black or black with a white tracer)

Another thing you can try is to find the light green wire on the neutral safety switch. Ground the wire to the case with a jumper wire. BE CAREFUL because the bike will start in any gear, so make sure you are in neutral. If the bike starts then you have a bad ground or no ground (broken wire).

Let us know...


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## jmc157 (Aug 29, 2014)

The wire I measured at the neutral relay is the black with white stripe. I'm not seeing a light green wire from this relay though. 

I ohmed the brown and black wires at the switch connector and got nothing.

Not sure if its related but now I see to have another problem. When I use a screwdriver to jump the solenoid it spins but I am not getting any ignition spark....


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## wjpelka (May 23, 2010)

*Okay, here is how this works...*

Take your meter and make a good connection to the negative side of the battery. Now, if you follow the schematic from #6, the fuse power goes down the white wire to the keyed ignition switch. Meter reading should be battery voltage, greater than 12 volts. Power goes thru the switch on the brown wire and passes thru the connector at #8. Still should be battery voltage. With the #2 switch on power passes to the #1. There will be NO voltage present on the black wire until you push the green start button. Push the button and read battery voltage on the black wire.The black wire changes to a black with white tracer at the connector and still should have battery voltage. The black with white tracer carries the battery voltage to the stationary side of the contacts in #14. IF that coil is not picked up, the voltage cannot jump the gap because the relay contacts remain open as shown in the schematic. IF the relay is not grounded thru the light green wire, the relay will not pick up. That is what the purpose of the neutral safety switch is. This prevents the quad from starting in gear, only neutral OR with the brakes ON. It will NOT start with the brakes on IF the light green wire is not making a good contact with ground. Since the quad will not turn over with the brakes on either, I would look at the neutral safety switch #15 and try to get a good ground to the light green wire. Jumper it to the negatives side of the battery.

Yes it was long winded but it should help you understand the circuit better. #14 will not pick up if #15 never grounds the light green wire.

Post what you find and we'll go from there. Good luck. We can fix this...


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